Open Source Studio Scale TIE Fighter Thread

[MrRobot]

Inspired by jcoffman99 and others, I have decided to share my journey into constructing a studio scale TIE fighter (target: ANH version) and will post links, data, and progress here. My motivation is similar: a lot of the data is not easy to access, there are countless dead links to images and defunct websites. There are apparently parts maps and discussions on another forum, but that has proven difficult to get access. I'm starting this at the part ID research and kit collection phase and aim to start sharing build progress early in the first quarter of 2025.

At present, my IDs are incomplete (see images in the part maps link) I have IDs for much of the exterior hull and wingstar hub; I've done the top and bottom "hatches" and front cockpit dash, but not yet made images (dreading doing the cockpit interior!). I'm updating these and posting them here:

Draft TIE Fighter part maps

Draft TIE Fighter donor kit list

As the links say, these are drafts and the maps are version-marked as "beta". Major-point "release" versions will then go into an RPF-hosted album and/or somewhere at least equally permanent. Comments, suggestions, hints, or outright IDs would be appreciated.

These lists would not have been possible without RPF, the awesome SciFiKitBash forum and all of the work done by folks who have painstakingly scanned and uploaded images of their kits. I am eternally in your debt!

RPF studio scale TIE Fighter link roundup:

SS Builds:
swgeek's detailed build chronicle: My SS TIE Fighter
vectorzero's TIE Advanced build (contains details relevant to TIE Fighter): TIE Advanced Build Log (Nice-N Base with Modifications)

Greeb IDs and kits:
Cockpit ball "seam cover": Seeking help with Tie greeblie ID
Some dorso-lateral cockpit ball parts: Tie Fighter parts identification
mbraz's unresolved mystery piece (as yet, unresolved): Troublesome TIE fighter greebly ID
thawn_es's 1:1 part exchange lists kits used on ANH TIE: New studio scale and 1:1 change/trade parts!!!
See also links for SS builds (as these have part IDs and useful images)

Measurement and ILM model details:
ICONS casting with some good discussion of measurements: EDIT - ICONS Tie Production Castings.....
Wing thickness discussion: Studio scale TIE wing thickness info if you can
Same thread: Cockpit ball diameter courtesy of moffeaton's production casts
Wing T-beam: Studio Scale Tie Fighter wing question

More will follow. I've tried to keep this list of links limited to threads that still have extant images/links. I will update this OP as I organize current info and collect more. All are welcome to contribute!

NOTE: As a rule, I will not share any information if it is shared privately with me unless you give me express consent to do so. I ask that others respect the same.

 

[MrRobot]

I've updated the part map files for the wingstar hub and cockpit ball exteriors yesterday. I've also recently updated some enumeration errors and typos in the wingstar hub map. I've made some success identifying some of the parts I've seen queried in the past by other builders, so I thought I'd post some details of my current IDs here.

The first is a dual rod #28: I believe this is part E1 from the Tamiya 1/25 Centurion with the ends trimmed off:

The second part, #68, is I believe 275Y from the AMT 1/25 International Payhauler:

Sorry I'm showing the reverse side of it relative to the TIE model (the scan on that side appears to be a bit less resolved).

Very nearly have IDs assigned to all wingstar hub parts (which isn't to say all the IDs are right). The last few stragglers are these usual suspects:

I gave #14 its own thread. I haven't seen a SS tie that convincingly has this part right (sometimes for lack of images, sometimes because two or more models clearly conflict—unlikely to both be right).

#43 is a rectangular box with 6 peripheral rivet or fastener details. Somewhat non-descript and could be cut from the body or hull of a tank and I just keep missing it. One of my major weaknesses is spotting parts cut out of the surface of larger vehicle body panels!

#65 and 66 seem to be lights from an armoured vehicle. This style of covered light is common in IFVs and self-propelled howitzers. You see similar forward lights on Bradley FVs, but those weren't produced until 1981, and these parts were definitely on the ANH model. I've come across a few candidates, but nothing definitive. Nichimo Abbot is a possibility but I don't have a good scan.

 

[swgeek]

#43 is from the Bandai 1/48 8 ton semi truck.

 

[swgeek]

Don't know if this helps?

 

[MrRobot]

Amazing! Thank you! Missed it because I was looking at a lower resolution scan for that one.

 

[MrRobot]

Don't know if this helps?

View attachment 1875746

This is brilliant. Thank you!

 

[MrRobot]

Want to examine the hinge part of the rear hatch of the TIE, since some of the public information about this is either incomplete or unclear.

Below is the well-known part map that I believe originates from the Studio Scale Modeler's forum.

I agree with all the part IDs in here, most are straightforward and from very well-known kits. Part 11 can also be sourced from the M36 Jackson, as I believe this has the same sprue as the M10 and was available at the time. For similar reasons, I believe 16 can as well be sourced from the 1/48 King Tiger.

The outstanding parts I've identified as:

6: Tamiya 1/48 M60 US Medium Tank parts A10 & A11, cut to accommodate the end of part 11 in the figure.

It's possible that other 1/48 M60 variants have this part, too. I haven't checked. An equivalent part can be found in the 1/35 kits, but they appear to be too big. They also differ in having four rivet details across the short margin, whereas the greebly on the TIE has three, just as in the 1/48.

12: This one's a bit interesting because I think (I'm not sure) some models might have scratch-built this. Looking in closely:

This appears to use a par cut down from one of the "saddle halves" of the Aurora 8" Howitzer:

I have to thank Studio Kitbash for pointing me to the Aurora Munitions Carrier in my other thread, which caused me to look at the 8" Howitzer in more detail.

That does leave a question about the part it is sitting on, highlighted here:

I'm not yet fully convinced this was scratch-built (I am open to it!), but I have a feeling it's a kit part; the green area might even extend all the way under the M10 suspension part, but it's hard to tell. I've put the boundary at what looks like a seam. However, in pictures that I've seen of the isolated rear hatch, there is no corresponding "seam" across the top of this feature. I welcome any thoughts on this or suggestions about what it might be.

 

[MrRobot]

Things are pretty busy at work, so I have not had time to compose any kind of detailed post. But the first few parts maps are now complete enough that I've updated them to 1.0 "release" versions for the wingstar hub and the cockpit ball (I'm going to do the hatches separately, but they're pretty easy). They still have some missing ID's, things I'm not 100% sure on, and I'm sure a few errors. I've had a start on the wingstar spars/struts. I've ID'd most but still far from all of the parts here. Images are hard to come by. I've had to use Vader TIE images to supplement, as these are often better. If anyone has good images of the TIE spars, I would love to see them (I will not re-post them, but hope it's OK if I use them to inform my searches). In the meantime, please enjoy the current versions of the part maps. As always, the latest versions are accessible through the link in the OP. Kit list has been updated at the same location.

EDIT (7June 2025):For those wanting the most up-to-date maps, please visit the part map area at www.scifikitbash.com

 

[MrRobot]

My holiday plans sorted!

Going to try to do this build old skool, emulating at least some of the ILM methods as I understand them. I bought some lime wood (bass wood for the Americans). There's a DVD doc where Lorne Peterson explains that he thinks the TIEs were made from wood and plastic. My best guess is is wood was used for the pylons. I don't have access to ren, so a decent carving wood seems a sensible path forward anyway.

I'm going to try doing the cockpit ball by vacuum forming over a 5" hemisphere. One layer for the "inner ball" and another for the "outer ball". We'll see how that goes. I only have access to a Mayku vacuum former right now, which limits me to fairly small sheets of styrene. I suspect this will cause substantial thinning of the material during the pull, so will need to work with sheets a bit thicker than what I expect. If this fails, then probably my Christmas plans will shift from starting my TIE build to building a homebrew vacuum former!

 

[MrRobot]

Belated Merry Christmas, I have updated and added to the part maps. These now cover all of the wing star struts (numbered 1-6, going clockwise from the upper left as defined in the wing star hub map). However, these are far from complete. You'll see a few question marks in there. Some of those updated since the last iteration already as I continue working on the ID's. However, any help is always appreciated.

A few additional updates are on the way.

Enjoy!

 

[MrRobot]

Earlier, I queried this part of the TIE anatomy:

12: This one's a bit interesting because I think (I'm not sure) some models might have scratch-built this. Looking in closely:

View attachment 1877514View attachment 1877515

[...]

That does leave a question about the part it is sitting on, highlighted here:

View attachment 1877520View attachment 1877521

I'm not yet fully convinced this was scratch-built (I am open to it!), but I have a feeling it's a kit part; the green area might even extend all the way under the M10 suspension part, but it's hard to tell. I've put the boundary at what looks like a seam. However, in pictures that I've seen of the isolated rear hatch, there is no corresponding "seam" across the top of this feature. I welcome any thoughts on this or suggestions about what it might be.

I've now ID'd this part; indeed it is not scratch built and comes from a relatively well-known kit. However, there are no scans here or at 'Kitbash, so it's not an easy one to resolve.

I'll borrow from Manugu's approach and make the ID a bit of a contest.

I'll share the ID with anyone willing to share some useful, but not easily accessible or publicly known TIE Fighter info (of course, I'll eventually just publish it in my map! But let's have a bit of fun). Images, measurements, part ID's etc. I will respect whatever provisions of secrecy/privacy of that info you wish (i.e not sharing or discussing publicly). My OS approach is exactly that: this thread gathers all the information that's "open source" (i.e. can be obtained by anyone already with a bit of work), I'm not out to spill your secrets.

 

[MrRobot]

I've now updated two of the part maps setting them to V1.0 as I've assigned IDs to all the parts (as best as I can). The diagram below explains my rationale for two of these IDs. This is WS3 (right horizontal spar in my maps). I've scale the inset images as best as I could to the scale on the actual part. The main image is from the Prop Store auction site, the inset images are from SciFiKitBash.

The Sherman part I'm reasonably confident in, and I suspect is also on the other horizontal wing spar.

The part attributed to the Panther-G I'm less convinced about. Open to alternative suggestions (as with any of my IDs!). The central cylindrical bit is obviously a bit different, in particular a lack of central cavity. However, with these TIE Fighter parts, all the components were cast and there are a lot of bubbles obscuring details.

In general, the wing star parts are some of the most difficult to identify. There aren't a lot of good reference images out there and the pieces involved are pretty small. I have to assemble my research from as many different views as possible. Importantly, the Vader TIE needs to be used as supplementary info since it uses cut-down TIE Fighter wing spars. Quite a few mystery bits remain and I'm always on the lookout for better reference images.

 

[MrRobot]

View attachment 1896873

Thinking about this some more, I'm more skeptical about this being a Panther-G part (yay!) simply rationalized as having the central cylinder cut down or bubbled out. The size and geometry are right, and the proportions of the middle cylinder and the comparatively large fastening bolts at the corners looks good.

The other thing that caught my attention is that it's almost certainly a part cut down from a panel. Here's another view of it from the prop store pyro model:

Another possible match would be from the tail plate of a 1/72 or 1/76 Tiger II chassis (Tiger II or Jagdtiger).

I have the ESCI kit coming in the mail (will put scans up on SciFiKitBash), but if anyone has good images of the 1/76 Nitto/Fujimi Tigers, I would greatly appreciate them. All the reference images I can find have the tail plate turned away from the camera!

 

[MrRobot]

I've now got a 1/72 kit and it appears to be too big. For reference, here it is against the Sherman part.

So, it looks like it will need to be the 1/76 Tiger—if it's that at all!

 

[MrRobot]

A little build update. Not much to show, but some progress on the basic hull form. Indeed, my holiday plans to get crackin' on this were thwarted by the tiny Mayku formbox I had access to, so the project shifted to homebrewed vacuum former. As I noted earlier, I'm doing this the way I think the ILM team did it. I'm also doing it because I learned from swgeek's thread that milling acrylic is a pain in the behind. The result will be an "inner" and "outer" sphere. The outer sphere will be the one that takes the scribe line details etc. The exposed bits of the inner sphere will be ground out after casting.

Here's the 5" acrylic hemisphere sitting on the new vacuum former in front of my oven, waiting for the first coat of 2mm styrene

Notice I've put the dome onto a 1cm-thick disc of plywood. The styrene is so thick that without this, you'd lose a lot of depth from the little 'draft slopes' that form invariably at the bottom. Your hull hemidomes wouldn't be hemispherical anymore and you'd get a weird-looking oblate hull.

To minimize this, I'm using a 6" PVC pipe connector. Sorry for the out-of-focus shot.

I push it down over the hemisphere and quickly start the vacuum. The edge is fairly sharp, so you can really push the plastic in tight to the hemisphere.

Voilà!

Three layers of 2mm styrene over a 5" sphere gives you 5 1/4" pretty much bang on the money. However, I did sand down the perimeter of the acrylic hemisphere a little bit to take out some "wobble". I will need to check this with a height gauge later to make sure I didn't over do it.

I leave the hemisphere inside and shave the styrene down close to it. I get it flush to the original dome with some sanding. I've marked the acrylic with Sharpie so I know when one side has gone too far. Here you can see me juuuuuust about to eff it up:

All for now. Hopefully next update will be more interesting.

 

[MrRobot]

I had a bit of time to work on the top hatch this week.

The main motivation for this post is that I recently discovered that many of the photos on the Propstore Auction site include camera and lens metadata in them. It makes it possible to correct lens distortion in Photoshop or Lightroom. I imported the corrected image to Illustrator and added some guides to align my Dymo tape lines:

The result is a not-too-shabby start to a V1 for this part:

I'm guessing I'll probably do it again (and again, and maybe again). But for now, I'll finish this all the way to the scribe lines and chipping stage and see how I feel about it.

This is my first foray into the world of this type of "industrial-design style" model-making, not having worked with styrene in this way before. Most of my previous model-making was a long time ago in a country far, far away and dealt mostly with natural history subjects, which are squishier and don't have a lot of straight lines—so they're more forgiving, even though accuracy matters there too.

 

[bwayne64]

Very nice work. Me likey !

 

[MrRobot]

Thanks!

Here's a bit more progress. Starting to look a bit more like a TIE hatch:

The big windows are a bit too wide.

For the record, the central part is 2mm styrene (cut directly from the top of the hull hemidome) and the "brim" is 1mm styrene. Because those just seem right. If anyone has any better reference for the thicknesses, I'm all ears.

 

[swgeek]

I used the top of the acrylic sphere, cut off to make the opening. It's just over 3mm thick. This was actually my favorite part to make on my TIE -Fighter. It made me feel like, "now it's a TIE-Fighter".

Mine...

The real thing...

 

[MrRobot]

I used the top of the acrylic sphere, cut off to make the opening. It's just over 3mm thick. This was actually my favorite part to make on my TIE -Fighter. It made me feel like, "now it's a TIE-Fighter".

Mine...

View attachment 1903809


The real thing...

View attachment 1903810

Thanks swgeek! I reckon that you've got it right. I'll keep plugging away with what I've got and see how it looks in the end. If I switch to a prefab hemisphere, I might opt for ABS rather than acrylic and hope that's a bit more workable.