Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

Thanks, Lol I like your chassis still trying to figure out which way I'm going on mine, Looks like you got a good start on parts. Thanks....Jim
 
Here's a comparison shot of the two LED heat sinks with respective tri Cree LED setups. I think I'm going to use the custom saber shops on the left.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1457456320.961360.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1457456334.943221.jpg


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How many did you have to order to get a good frosty one? I ordered 3 and they are all too clear I'm afraid. You ordered the "Clear Quartz" ones right?
I took a risk and only ordered 1... but yes, it was the clear quartz selection from the ebay seller's drop down menu.
 
For those that are using the saberbay heatsink, how are you guys keeping the lens from falling out of the housing? Also would PC thermal paste be better at ensuring good contact between the heatsink and the LED? The thermal tape seems a little cumbersome
 
I am definitely using Arctic silver for the heat sink read up on using the tape and everyone says it's not great. For the lease e600 glue is what I've read?


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I put a thermal star tape on bottom and then a few dabs of e6000 on the edges of the led to bind it to the heatsink. Then a dab of it on each of the posts of the lens. Not sure if that's the way it should be done but that's what I did it. Hopefully it sticks.

I'm building two more anh sabers for a couple friends and if like to try the thermal paste. Is there a particular kind or brand that people recommend?


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Arctic silver is the only thermal paste anyone I've ever spoken to about thermal paste has recommend. I think it's like the gold standard of thermal paste. I've ised it in all the PC builds I've done. Never had any heat issues with my cpu so I assume it works lol.


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Hi everybody,
I am also preparing a Graflex 2.0 with Goth crystal chamber chassis.
I am supposed to use awg 30 wire to connect my tri Cree led. However the awg 30 is suppose to be used for max 0,5 Amp whereas the cree led goes up to 1 Amp. Is there not a risk of melting wire?
Awg 28 can be used up to 1,2 Amp which will be find. But it could be too big for this chassis. :-(
What do you Think, awg 30 or 28?
Thanks for your experience
 
Hi everybody,
I am also preparing a Graflex 2.0 with Goth crystal chamber chassis.
I am supposed to use awg 30 wire to connect my tri Cree led. However the awg 30 is suppose to be used for max 0,5 Amp whereas the cree led goes up to 1 Amp. Is there not a risk of melting wire?
Awg 28 can be used up to 1,2 Amp which will be find. But it could be too big for this chassis. :-(
What do you Think, awg 30 or 28?
Thanks for your experience

I believe it'll be just fine with the 30AWG. 1) we're not the first ones to build sabers with 30AWG, and I haven't heard of anyone melting wires before. 2) it takes a LOT of heat to melt the wires, and I believe typically the rating has more to do with melting the insulation, which under cursory investigation happens at around 3.6 amps. 3) we're going with very short wire runs in these, so there isn't the same considerations needed for something with a longer wire run (at least that's my understanding)
 
OK than let go for 30 AWG. Thanks for your quick Feedback.
One other point. Has one of you the wiring plan for NBv3 including one accent led lighting on when kill key removed and a second one lighting on when memory switch turned on?

I am looking forward to make my first saber.
I would like to thank the whole community to share their experience and spend time helping new comers.
Many thanks
 
OK than let go for 30 AWG. Thanks for your quick Feedback.
One other point. Has one of you the wiring plan for NBv3 including one accent led lighting on when kill key removed and a second one lighting on when memory switch turned on?

I am looking forward to make my first saber.
I would like to thank the whole community to share their experience and spend time helping new comers.
Many thanks

From my reading of the NB V3 manual you have one accent light that has 2 mounting points, 1 to stay on while in "deep sleep" and the other to turn off in DS.

Here's the manual:

http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Doc/Nano Biscotte v3-GB.pdf

I haven't done my build yet so someone that has may know better...
 
More goodies. Will need to do an inventory soon (Chassis piece & Spark C2 on order).
The battery came in a 2-pack, does anyone need one?
12443351_10100578861638502_63280375_o.jpg
 
OK than let go for 30 AWG. Thanks for your quick Feedback.
One other point. Has one of you the wiring plan for NBv3 including one accent led lighting on when kill key removed and a second one lighting on when memory switch turned on?

I am looking forward to make my first saber.
I would like to thank the whole community to share their experience and spend time helping new comers.
Many thanks

I wired my accent light to go off when in deep sleep mode.
 
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