Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

[ViperDeCobray]

May I make a recommendation? I replaced the screws that come with the kit with rivets. They are a larger diameter and are far more screen accurate. They also allow you to drill the hole out in the center.
View attachment 603453View attachment 603454

Great idea! What size did you use. The reason I'm wanting holes through them is because I'm working on putting a Graflex end piece (cutting it off of a 2 cell end cap) over the end cap that comes with the 2.0, and need the holes in the rivets for sound.

 

[Shoot2Thrill468]

Great idea! What size did you use. The reason I'm wanting holes through them is because I'm working on putting a Graflex end piece (cutting it off of a 2 cell end cap) over the end cap that comes with the 2.0, and need the holes in the rivets for sound.

That's exactly what I did with mine lol. That's a 2 cell bottom on mine. I'm not sure of the exact size of the rivets unfortunately, I got them from work. You can however go to any hardware store and browse their large selection and pick the ones you think look the best. I'm not positive of the size of the ones in the movie, I just picked some I though looked good. You can get a dozen or so for only a couple dollars so you can get a few sizes and experiment with the ones you like the best.

Here's mine with the 2 cell pommel and a more accurate d-ring from Wannawanga.com. I still need the rivets for the d-ring but it already looks 1000x better.

 

[Shoot2Thrill468]

Hey guys thought I would share this. I just finished this for a friend of mine. This was the saber I was building for my tutorial videos so now that it's done I can begin the arduous task of editing. Hoping to have them online in a week or so depending on how much free time I have to devote to it. I'm hoping people find them helpful.

 

[cjchiu]

Thanks for sharing. I for one will be looking forward to your tutorial videos...

 

[jcroscigno]

Hey guys thought I would share this. I just finished this for a friend of mine. This was the saber I was building for my tutorial videos so now that it's done I can begin the arduous task of editing. Hoping to have them online in a week or so depending on how much free time I have to devote to it. I'm hoping people find them helpful.

https://youtu.be/eXkn4WrmcJc

looks great - if you don't mind, what is your modification to the clamp? I started filing so I could tighten the lever more, maybe it just needs a bit more work?
Did most of the prep work tonight; drilled the grenade holes, got my rods set up for the crystal chamber, and cut my crystal to fit inside (the chamber for Spark C2 is smaller than for NBv3).

 

[Martin Sabers]

There are a number of ways to wire up pretty much as many accent LED's as you wish. It all depends on where you choose to wire it. You can wire it to the Deep Sleep pad which means it will turn itself off when deep sleep is initiated. The downside is the DS pad is ridiculously tiny and difficult to solder too. Your other option is the "Power Indicator" pad which is easier to solder to, but you will need to make sure to use your kill key because it will not turn off during deep sleep. Honestly the easiest way to do it would be to solder one LED to the main positive and negative pads on the board (which would activate the LED as soon as the board has power i.e. awake and would turn off when it goes to sleep) and you can solder another LED to the main positive pad and the main LED negative pad. This one would only come on with the blade and would share the flicker effects. You can even add a third if you're daring and wire to the FoC circuit.

The DS and PI pads have an output of only 3.3v so you really wouldn't need a resistor. If you take power from the main pads they put out the full 3.7v so you would need to do the simple calculation to find a resistor. Here is an example of how you would wire it the way I described.

View attachment 601722

Just one Dummy question but I want to be sure. Can I bridge the negative of both blue leds directly on the tri-cree led?
Thanks for your answer

 

[Shoot2Thrill468]

looks great - if you don't mind, what is your modification to the clamp? I started filing so I could tighten the lever more, maybe it just needs a bit more work? Did most of the prep work tonight; drilled the grenade holes, got my rods set up for the crystal chamber, and cut my crystal to fit inside (the chamber for Spark C2 is smaller than for NBv3).

Simply round out the top and bottom of the square hole in the clamp brace that the lever stud slides through. You don't need to touch the lever itself or the square washer, just round the top and bottom of the hole a bit until the lever can turn freely.

 

[Shoot2Thrill468]

Just one Dummy question but I want to be sure. Can I bridge the negative of both blue leds directly on the tri-cree led? Thanks for your answer

Yes you can, but it's always recommended to resistor each die individually. Another way to do it would be to resistor one positive wire, then bridge the positives too.

 

[kermet]

Your sabers are very cool, so is this thread loving it. Can't wait to get started on mine! Great Job To Everyone's Builds Thanks....Jim

 

[jcroscigno]

Testing the crystal. Spark C2 comes tomorrow, hoping to get this all done by the weekend.
34" VV blade ordered as well.

 

[ViperDeCobray]

added the end piece from a 2 Cell Graflex onto the bottom of the 2.0. Still need a little grinding on it to level it out, and it's just a tad off center, but overall I do like how it turned out.

 

[Martin Sabers]

Yes you can, but it's always recommended to resistor each die individually. Another way to do it would be to resistor one positive wire, then bridge the positives too.

Thanks for your reply. I will resistor them individually. But as the resistor has to be placed on the positive wires, there is no influence to bride the negative wires on the tri-cree led directly vs to solder them together further down, is nt' it? Or there is something I have overseen?

 

[Terrasolo]

That's exactly what I did with mine lol. That's a 2 cell bottom on mine. I'm not sure of the exact size of the rivets unfortunately, I got them from work. You can however go to any hardware store and browse their large selection and pick the ones you think look the best. I'm not positive of the size of the ones in the movie, I just picked some I though looked good. You can get a dozen or so for only a couple dollars so you can get a few sizes and experiment with the ones you like the best.

Here's mine with the 2 cell pommel and a more accurate d-ring from Wannawanga.com. I still need the rivets for the d-ring but it already looks 1000x better.
View attachment 603478

How was this mod to make for you? As in, how difficult was it to get cut clean and line up the drill holes so that everything sits even etc. I'm wanting to do this to mine but I'm a novice at this so I'm looking for the best way to achieve this same look and not have it look like a five year old kid did it lol

 

[Fett 4 Real]

View attachment 603956
Testing the crystal. Spark C2 comes tomorrow, hoping to get this all done by the weekend.
34" VV blade ordered as well.

I got a VV blade too. It's pretty nice. I shined my surefire into it. Lit up really nice. Waiting for my hilt to get here to actually light it up.


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[jcroscigno]

With regard to adding a 2-cell bottom to the hilt, it's really too bad there isn't some kind of stamped foil decal or even just an etched plate that could be stuck on. I don't have it in me to try and design something like that, but I'd definitely spend $5-10 on one that I could just stick to the bottom of my hilt.

 

[senormodeler]

Are you guys putting one crystal led in your chassis or more than one?


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[H0llyw00d]

Are you guys putting one crystal led in your chassis or more than one?


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For mine 1x3mm blue LED for power on, 1x5mm blue LED for main crystal & 1x3mm white for flash on clash. Each gets a 22 ohm 1/8w resistor.

 

[Fett 4 Real]

For mine 1x3mm blue LED for power on, 1x5mm blue LED for main crystal & 1x3mm white for flash on clash. Each gets a 22 ohm 1/8w resistor.

Why are you putting resistors on them? If they're not connected to the battery directly they shouldn't need a resistor...


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[H0llyw00d]

Why are you putting resistors on them? If they're not connected to the battery directly they shouldn't need a resistor...


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If I use the accent pad for power on I won't have to, but for the crystal and foc LED's I will because I'll be attaching those to the main pads.

 

[Shoot2Thrill468]

If I use the accent pad for power on I won't have to, but for the crystal and foc LED's I will because I'll be attaching those to the main pads.

Be aware that if you are hooking them up to the main + and - pads on the board it will be always on unless you use the kill key. Deep sleep will have no effect since it's always connected to the battery circuit. If you're hooking up to the main + and the LED - than you're fine.