Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

Got everything wired up last night. When I tested it, one of the blue LEDs isn't working. Now have to trouble shoot that and figure out where the disconnect is. Hopefully it's not burned out. I tested them all before installation and they were working fine.


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Got everything wired up last night. When I tested it, one of the blue LEDs isn't working. Now have to trouble shoot that and figure out where the disconnect is. Hopefully it's not burned out. I tested them all before installation and they were working fine.


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Make sure each individual lead from the LED's is wrapped in heatshrink or tape so that when the wires are all pinched together inside the saber, they don't touch and short circuit each other.
 
I asked earlier on but I think I got missed. Does the button work with a real Graflex? And how are the grips compared to Roys or Todds?
 
I asked earlier on but I think I got missed. Does the button work with a real Graflex? And how are the grips compared to Roys or Todds?

The 2.0 Buttons don't work with a real Graflex. They're threaded and act like the Glass Eye's do on the 2.0, with a long threaded portion that screws into that blade holder. The grips are nice, but I wouldn't say they're as close as Roy. They have a much more plastic-like feel to them, but they work still. The pre cut ESB grips are definitely convenient though.

Roy's Grips on my ANH



2.0 Grips


 
image.jpeg

Hi chaps, finally getting around to sorting the wiring out.

Can some of the more experienced builders let me know how this wiring looks? ...any errors?

much appreciated!
 
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The 2.0 Buttons don't work with a real Graflex. They're threaded and act like the Glass Eye's do on the 2.0, with a long threaded portion that screws into that blade holder. The grips are nice, but I wouldn't say they're as close as Roy. They have a much more plastic-like feel to them, but they work still. The pre cut ESB grips are definitely convenient though.

Roy's Grips on my ANH

[url]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98/JaxAndTheMoon/DSC_0092_zpsarvlbusc.jpg[/URL]

2.0 Grips

[url]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98/JaxAndTheMoon/DSC_0241_zpsyslxmsor.jpg[/URL]
[url]http://i781.photobucket.com/albums/yy98/JaxAndTheMoon/DSC_0243_zps9bfjotnl.jpg[/URL]
Thanks brother! I used some Italian 2 part epoxy and used a template to put my Roy Grips on.. after everything dried and settled the grips did not look aligned :(
It took the strength of 10 men to take one grip off. The dried epoxy on the bottom of the grips sucks and wont come off for anything. I might have to buy a new set.. yikes this is costing me some dough just for some grips
 
Ordered another 2.0 (arriving in April) tonight. Just had to have another one for the TFA version. So get to do it all over again.

SOOOO close to pushing the button on another one too! ...I've got one of Romans new replicas on pre order but I am loving the 2.0 and the mod-ability so far.

Hi, my name is Yubnub and I I'm addicted to props and custom lightsabers. :(
 
I just assumed the RPF is like AA for all of us addicted to making props.... or is it a gateway... or an enabler...
 
It looks ok to me. However, you don't need a JST connector on the battery if you're using a recharge port.

As far as wiring the recharge port for all the positive wires(LED, battery, board) does it matter where to put the connecting points? That's the main difference I'm seeing on everyone's personal build diagrams...


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Be sure to get the aqua clear also. My friend who gave me the info for it said if you want it shiny you want the aqua clear....


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