Voltaire Surge
Member
did you see in the game trailer that the scroll wheel on the top actually switches between sub menus and not up and down on the items?
Yes I did see that they did an animation for the sub-menus, and not the individual items. I suspect they did that just because in-game you may be quickly scrolling through a long list, and the animations would become distracting. In either case I can program the scroll wheel to do whatever I want inside Android, so that doesn't have to be set right now.
Voltaire Surge
Member
Ah, gotcha. I like how you are doing it more. Also, this whole thing is beyond amazing. I couldnt think of things like this and find it all so amazing.
what does that tiny knob below the power button do? i would think it would work as a thing to go between the sub menus and still keep the one knob as a scroll wheel. what do you think?
what does that tiny knob below the power button do? i would think it would work as a thing to go between the sub menus and still keep the one knob as a scroll wheel. what do you think?
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zookone
Well-Known Member
In Fallout 3 the the item and weapons (for example) screens did not change the graphic when you scroll through the list. It only updates the graphic when you click on the list item. The Special screen and some others did change the graphic as you scrolled. Maybe this is what you are seeing carry over into FO4.
I don't believe it is a knob as it is very small and there is no label. The center hole has a glossy finish on the pip-boy edition. I don't think it will have any function in-game. My theory is that it is supposed to be the sensor that detects if the player is hidden or not. And that is exactly what it will be in my design. I will have a small CdS cell in there. These are light sensitive resistors. The were invented in 1955, and are a basic electronic component. You find them used commonly in night lights. In my design it can be used to automatically control the screen and gauge back-light brightness.
Voltaire Surge
Member
so if its dark everything will light up? o.o thats cool. so if your outside the screen is dim but inside its alittle more lit?
Voltaire Surge
Member
Also, a question, would you do a pipboy 3000 B model that has the hand piece? the one from 3 and new vegas? it seems alittle easier and i personaly dont have something to make a model or prototype. but i did have some ideas for how it could work. i think. that way if u do make kits you can have a deluxe mark 4 and the simpler plain 3000 B model. because ive seen working ones but they use all these huge parts or cant fit their arms in the thing but you could make it all fit and work alot easier i think. just a thought. it would be when you are done with this glorious device though
Voltaire Surge
Member
actualy they change as u pass them. and you see the scroll wheel move each time. and you go between the stats items and data by using the triggers which is actually the character pushing the buttons and they light up, like the power button on the mark 4. and u us the knob on the far left to go between the 5 sub menus of the 3 main categories. the selections i think seem to be more of a purely in game thing since its when u have equipped or a real out of pipboy action. in fallout 4 that same thing happens but it does show u scrolling only when u click on something.
Voltaire Surge
Sorry, I am not doing any Fallout 3 props. This project has lots of work left to do.
Sorry, I am not doing any Fallout 3 props. This project has lots of work left to do.
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Voltaire Surge
Member
Thought so. what you've done on this has actually heped me see what pieces id need if i ever did something like this myself. seriously love what youve done so far. it actually makes me happy to see XD makes me think if i had the money would i choose this or a master sword? probably this
Jakeinator123
Member
It looks really nice so far, zapwizard. I'm just lurking.... Coveting... Don't mind me! 
Hey folks, I have enough of the 3D printed design to do a estimate of the cost on the 3D printed parts. Printed at Shapeways.com, the cost of the parts is currently estimated to be $380. I have found shapeways to be the lowest price for SLS printed parts, and the few parts I have made with them have been good quality. I will probably shop around a bit once the design is more finalized. Changes will be made as I work out the placement of connectors and components on the printed circuit boards. I have at least as much work to do on the PCBs as I have had on the mechanical design.
For those who have shown an interested in a group-buy, I have created a cool survey for you to fill out. I expect a run of these to be limited, so first come first serve will have better odds of getting into the group-buy. I am not out to make money on this project, only to get an good quality replica into the hands of those who want it. This does NOT mean I am starting a group buy soon. It is to get more information on what a kit will need to include.
Click here for the group-buy survey.
ApophisV
Active Member
For the first time in years I hate myself to have skipped my mechanical engineering studies! :eek This is so ultimately cool, absolutely stunning work!
May I ask some questions regarding the survey (to avoid distorting it needlessly)?
Is it possible to get an rough estimate of the costs of the needed electronic components and will they be included in the kit? Just to get an very rough idea what the overall cost will be?
Will it come with instructions, especially if you're doing a not-so-much-preassembled kit?
Just to ensure: I guess the group buy itself won't start in 2015? (Since I need to get a new, modern pc before November (guess, why?) a later date would serve me quite well (Both in terms of money and time ^^)
Anyway, keep up this amazing, beautiful work! :love
May I ask some questions regarding the survey (to avoid distorting it needlessly)?
Is it possible to get an rough estimate of the costs of the needed electronic components and will they be included in the kit? Just to get an very rough idea what the overall cost will be?
Will it come with instructions, especially if you're doing a not-so-much-preassembled kit?
Just to ensure: I guess the group buy itself won't start in 2015? (Since I need to get a new, modern pc before November (guess, why?
) a later date would serve me quite well (Both in terms of money and time ^^)Anyway, keep up this amazing, beautiful work! :love
Go ahead and submit your information, you can edit your information anytime and I will probably update the survey over time.
Doing a estimate of the electronics and other hardware is actually what I am working on right now, as part of the planning stages for the electronics. For example I have decided not to include a expensive ($120) and dangerous high-voltage geiger counter. Instead I will design in a Pin-Diode gamma ray detector. This costs less then $10. Each sub-circuit, such as GPS will have it's own estimate. Roughly, I expect the electronics to cost around $250. The LCD costs $45, the BeagleBone Black cost $55. Custom PCBs can be had pretty cheap, but SMT assembly costs can add up. The hardware (Screws and such) will probably be around $50. Again these are very rough off-the-top of my head estimates.
Yes, it will come with detailed assembly instructions with as much helpful info as I can think of. For example the last real-world product I worked on (day job) has a 55 page assembly manual, as well as 16 pages of cable drawings. Also part of the reason for the interest survey is to gauge the skill level of the potential people who want a kit. If 75% of the people end up being fairly skilled mechanically, I know how much detail I have to include in the instructions.
I don't think this group-buy will happen in 2015. As much as I would like to say, "Get this before Fallout drops!", there is a lot to prototype first. Creating the prototype will cost quite a bit, at least twice the cost of a single kit. Just after I started this project both my wife and I had medical issues, the A/C at my home had to be replaced ($7400), and my car required $1500 in servicing. So now funds are a bit tight. I may start looking for a sponsor, or stating a crowdfunding campaign just to build the prototype. I won't do that until I have a good estimate of the cost of the kit and prototype costs.
I plan on prototyping the mechanical components by creating smaller sub-assemblies. For example rather then spending $380 to prototype all 40+ 3D printed parts, I would just order a truncated version of the project, such as the radio knob gear assembly. Including a portion of the Pip-Boy shell. This would let me test each mechanical component individually, and tweak those parts before ordering the whole thing. This takes a bit more time and money, but prevents a huge waste in creating the whole thing at once, only to find that some gear binds up, or the holotape deck springs up so hard it falls out.
Doing a estimate of the electronics and other hardware is actually what I am working on right now, as part of the planning stages for the electronics. For example I have decided not to include a expensive ($120) and dangerous high-voltage geiger counter. Instead I will design in a Pin-Diode gamma ray detector. This costs less then $10. Each sub-circuit, such as GPS will have it's own estimate. Roughly, I expect the electronics to cost around $250. The LCD costs $45, the BeagleBone Black cost $55. Custom PCBs can be had pretty cheap, but SMT assembly costs can add up. The hardware (Screws and such) will probably be around $50. Again these are very rough off-the-top of my head estimates.
Yes, it will come with detailed assembly instructions with as much helpful info as I can think of. For example the last real-world product I worked on (day job) has a 55 page assembly manual, as well as 16 pages of cable drawings. Also part of the reason for the interest survey is to gauge the skill level of the potential people who want a kit. If 75% of the people end up being fairly skilled mechanically, I know how much detail I have to include in the instructions.
I don't think this group-buy will happen in 2015. As much as I would like to say, "Get this before Fallout drops!", there is a lot to prototype first. Creating the prototype will cost quite a bit, at least twice the cost of a single kit. Just after I started this project both my wife and I had medical issues, the A/C at my home had to be replaced ($7400), and my car required $1500 in servicing. So now funds are a bit tight. I may start looking for a sponsor, or stating a crowdfunding campaign just to build the prototype. I won't do that until I have a good estimate of the cost of the kit and prototype costs.
I plan on prototyping the mechanical components by creating smaller sub-assemblies. For example rather then spending $380 to prototype all 40+ 3D printed parts, I would just order a truncated version of the project, such as the radio knob gear assembly. Including a portion of the Pip-Boy shell. This would let me test each mechanical component individually, and tweak those parts before ordering the whole thing. This takes a bit more time and money, but prevents a huge waste in creating the whole thing at once, only to find that some gear binds up, or the holotape deck springs up so hard it falls out.
Voltaire Surge
Member
Wil you upload pictures or videos of the individual parts as you prototype them? That would be cool to see all the work you've done so far bit by bit as it is figured out
Yes, absolutely.
There isn't really a need to analyze the mechanism wear and tear. I am over-designing the mechanism. All the springs are attached to metal pins, instead of 3D printed plastic posts (which are prone to breaking). All the sliding parts are also metal pins, running inside plastic slots. The SLS Nylon used is self-lubricating and will only get smoother over time. The arms which the tape deck uses will be prototyped using Nylon, if that is too flexible, I can make them using stiff FR4 (PCB material), or even make them from metal.
The only major risk is that the springs will be too strong or too weak, prototyping it is really the only way to get a feel for how the mechanism will feel.
jellis359
Jr Member
I had assumed the latch mechanism would be under considerable tension. That was my thought. Do the material properties of the nylon parts have a df and fos for the latch being used frequently. Don't want a 500$ investment falling off my arm. Just a thought.
Well I'm in. I did the survey. You should really give kickstarter a try for funding. Unless Bethesda would give you a big frowny face.
Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
Well I'm in. I did the survey. You should really give kickstarter a try for funding. Unless Bethesda would give you a big frowny face.
Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
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Btechnician
New Member
This is amazing I'm really glad someone with your know-how and manpower is taking on this project I was really bummed when I found out that the fallout 4 pip boy was just a glorified cell phone holder. and I really wanted to take the test on with me and my friends but we do not have the know-how or experience.can't wait to see what the future holds for this project of yours and I'm glad that you let us be along for the ride.
Voltaire Surge
Member
what model speaker are you planning to use? i'm trying to look for pieces to list for a pipboy 3000 A model using the pieces u are using as a type of reference. giv how small the pieces u've found are t would actually work well with the other model aswell, i've looked up tutorials to make pcb's and found a site that supplies rotary switches and encoders, as well as one for the illuminating tactile switch. I know you are busy with this but if its ok i'd like to ask you for input on occasion, i'm no engineer like i think it said on your site, i dont even have a degree, but i'm a stickler for certain detail. i've also seen someone with an accurate model to the in-game and i'm trying to get the file from him to work on this. This would be a first big project, and i intend to figure the whole thing out, eventually. Sorry if this is a mess for your thread, just thought i'd ask, i got lots of free time.
