Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by zapwizard, Aug 19, 2015.

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  1. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    29076621907_53bbcfa6bf_c.jpg
    August 2018 3D design rendering

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    The latest updates:


    Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

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    /2018 Status:
    The project is continuing, just in fits and starts.

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    /2017 status:

    Howdy folks,


    Well, after much thought, I have decided to do what many have asked for: I will be releasing the full CAD files for the Functional Pip-Boy 3000 MK4.


    I am releasing these files as a unfinished work. I still intend on going back and making my “master” version someday. But currently I have a new home with its own projects to work on.


    If you want to check out my home projects, I will be publishing that project at: www.halfwayupthehill.com. (There isn’t much up at the moment yet)


    I am releasing these files for the sake keeping a huge amount of work from going to waste.


    I put a ton of work into this design. I have used my years of experience with product design to create what I feel is the most accurate, and faithful version of the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk IV. The design uses real metal hardware, and mixed materials to achieve a look as good as if RobCo built it themselves.


    To that end, this design is expensive. There is no way around that without losing out on quality. This is an unfinished design. Do not expect to just order all the parts, and put it together like a model airplane. Lots of work is still needed to even build just one of these.


    It is up to the community to continue the work.

    /May 2018 Edit:

    -I am releasing the CAD files for those looking to build the next Pip-Boy, or finish my 3000 Mk IV design.


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    Hello, this is my first post to the RPF, but this isn't my first major project by far.

    My goal is to create a Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from the game Fallout 4. Why not just get one of the limited edition models? For one, they are sold out. Two, I don't want a glorified plastic phone case. I want a Pipboy that at least has all the knobs and buttons functional.

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    21022493196_7949c818f4_c.jpg
    Click here for the original rendering (5-days into the project)
    Click here for the newest renderings

    The model was created in Solid Edge, and rendered in Keyshot.

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    20861923679_c5d500a7aa_c.jpg
    Click here for the original early rendering

    My plan is to 3D print the model, however to get the level of detail I want, I will probably use SLS printing. However, the expense of that may change my mind. Currently I am focusing on getting a CAD model that has everything laid out. Making it real can come later.

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    21056405771_2c0ecbee67_c.jpg
    Click here for the original early rendering

    I want to have everything that should be lit up, lit up. Currently the plan is to try to directly print the RAD gauge and Radio gauge artwork onto a piece of thin acrylic. If that doesn't work, then perhaps a vinyl transfer. To that end I have re-created the two gauges as vector art in CorelDraw.

    The RAD gauge will be driven either sudo randomly by a small motor, or perhaps driven like a compass using a set of electromagnets. I don't think I will be able to fit a true Geiger counter in, plus they can be expensive. So currently the plan is to drive the RAD meter with data from a contactless IR temperature sensor. The radio gauge will be connected to a microcontroller and FM radio chip. It may also simply scan through pre-programmed sounds taken from the game. I haven't decided yet.

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    Solid Edge has been my CAD software of choice for almost a year. It is overkill for a prop, but allows for some serious modeling in a short period of time.
    The model as shown here was started just 5 days ago and done in my spare time. By day I am a product engineer so this type of design is right up my alley.
    It was created from scratch using reference photos from the game trailer, images of the limited edition model, as well as referencing dragonator's 3D printable model.

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    The LCD screen will be a 3.5" 4x3 LCD. That is if I can find a android device that can drive it.

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    The bottom latch will be functional. Thanks again to dragonator for creating a latch that I could then reference. Mine works basically the same as his but with a few changes to make it possibly hold tighter. I also plan on putting magnets it to hold it together until the latch is secured.

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    The opening in the Pip-boy is scaled to fit my own arm, with some padding added. The rest of the model was scaled by referencing the size of the character's thumb in the demo video of the Pip-Boy.

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    The holotape mechanism will also be functional and spring loaded. The release button will act as both a latch, and a kicker to push it open. The actual yellow holotape is the only model I copied from dragonator's model, although I scaled it down by 75%. The plan is to put RFID tags into the holotapes, and have those kick off a program on the Android device.

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    More to come as I get stuff done. I may share the model at some future time when it is more complete. Currently only the outside is done and I have yet to make a scale mock-up.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2018
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  2. lilykill

    lilykill Active Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Looks good, I agree with the printing option, It would be so much better done via SLS but cost a heap more. Great idea with the RFID tags, sound like you could do a couple interesting things with it.

    Here my version that I've finished. But it sound like your going one step further with the lights and stuff, that something I've not currently doing as I have no clue on how to do it.
    pipboy 3000 MkIV front.JPG

    Out of curiosity, what have you got as the overall length of it?.
     
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  3. Bogleo

    Bogleo Well-Known Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Those renders look real! :thumbsup
     
  4. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Lilykill, Your model looks great. I would suggest expanding the finger nubs on the vertical scroll wheel past the surround, so your finger isn't hitting both surfaces when turning.
    I checked out your other models and may use a few to complete my full get up.

    There are several methods to light up the gauges. In previous projects I have used back-painted acrylic with an edge LED. This doesn't end up with very even light but it works.
    For this project I want to try front-printing on a defusing acrylic. Then use edge-mounted LEDs to light up the plastic.Another option is to try to just backlight it, but that requires a thicker stack-up of electronics. I depends on how much space I end up needing for other stuff.

    The overall length of mine ended up being 138mm (5.4"). I started my model with just the face, using the in-game character's thumb size and my own thumb size. This yielded a 3.5" LCD screen. The rest of the dimensions expanded from there. This is probably smaller than the in-game model or PIp-boy edition, cut is customized to fit me.
     
  5. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4



    Yeah, at first I had to look again. Thought he had already built it. :lol



    Stellar modeling work here, man. And welcome to the RPF!
     
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  6. lilykill

    lilykill Active Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4


    I think mine is about 175mm long as the pip boy edition can fit a iphone 6 which is 138mm long inside it, but as you've scaling from in game footage it sounds right with the dimension you've used.

    It'll be awesome to see the finished item.
     
  7. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Last edited: Aug 21, 2015
  8. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Jellis359: Thanks for the link to the udoo neo, I will check it out. I want to run android so that I can use the companion app. I am also considering using a Beaglebone, or ripping apart a phone. The Raspberry pi is simply too large. Also, I linked to that model earlier. I used it as reference.

    In fact to fit the a Beaglebone or similar device I scaled the model up by 10%.

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    [​IMG]

    One thing I wanted to do was make the radio knob work similar to a old-school analog radio. That is, I didn't want the motion of the knob to be a 1:1 connection to the motion of the needle. I have had cheap toys as a kid which had a fake gauge inside, and the needle would be attached to the knob. This ends up looking and feeling cheap. My goal was to make this feel like a real designed product.

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    What I did was to design a compact gearing system that takes the motion of the knob, and slows it down by 3x.
    I found the awesome website: geargenerator.com, which allowed me to simulate the gears. It has a SVG export option.

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    I used CorelDraw to convert the SVG to a DXF and scale it to the space I had. I then arranged the gears into a compact setup.

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    The current design has the knob connected to the orange gear via a hex-head screw. The orange gear transfers the rotation to the blue gear.
    The blue gear then transfers that rotation to the green gear. The green gear rotates around the screws. Nylon washers act as spacers and lower the overall friction, since 3D printed parts aren't always smooth. If I use SLS nylon printing for these parts I can eliminate the washers entirely.

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    The result is overkill of course, but that is what will make this go from a prop, to a something closer to a being a replica.
    While not shown, the plan it to attach the blue gear to a potentiometer or rotary encoder, this will electrically detect the knob movement.

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    The following will give a bit of insight into how a rendering program such as Keyshot can be used to simulate a project before ever constructing it.
    Above is a rendering of what I want the radio gauge to look like when complete.

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    [​IMG]

    To generate the rendering I am actually leveraging the program's ability to simulate real-world materials. The light in in the image is actually an accurate casting of light from two LEDs placed behind the gauge. The materials are rendered the same refraction as acrylic.

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    [​IMG]

    The gauge stack-up looks like the above.
    1) A layer of acrylic at the top.
    2) A plastic spacer where the needle travels.
    3) The actual gauge labeling itself, back printed onto acrylic.
    4) The defusing layer. This can be as simple as sanded acrylic, or even a layer of hotglue works well as a LED defuser.
    5) A plastic shroud to keep the LED light contained.
    6) A the bottom will be a PCB with two LEDs.

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  9. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Check out the udoo neo for sure its super small and has a raspi, arduino , sensors And built in Bluetooth and WiFi. Its smaller than my gz one commando phone. http://www.udoo.org/udoo-neo/

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2015
  10. 2crzy4uall

    2crzy4uall New Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    The nexus 5 might be a good choice for taking apart.
     
  11. VaultDweller

    VaultDweller New Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Would you ever do a run of these? I would be VERY interested.
     
  12. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Don't mean to step on any toes but you can already get them 3d printed. Try 3dhubs.com. you can find full files for the pipboy here....
    http://ytec3d.com/pip-boy-3000-mark-iv/


    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
  13. Cri7e

    Cri7e Active Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Very nice work so far my friend. Also beautiful renders! I learned to render with SketchUp and Vray and I can say you did a fantastic job.

    Also nice to see somebody build its own PipBoy, I got lucky and preordered the PipBoy Edition for Fallout 4.

    One question? How are you going to cut out all the various pieces? Do you have a laser cutter or something like that?
     
  14. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    jellis359: Your not stepping on any toes, I linked to that page in my original post. His doesn't have functional (or even movable) knobs. But he does have a working cassette and latch. I referenced his model when designing mine.

    Also, I looked at the udoo-neo. It is a pre-order and not a open hardware design (at least they haven't released much). It is only marginally smaller in one dimension than a Beaglebone black, and just about the same price. Where as the Beaglebone black has massive levels of support, full CAD files, already is known to work well, etc... So I am going with that for now.

    @VaultDweller, This design will most likely be so expensive that a group buy may be the only way to really get it made. However, I am not committing to any runs at this time. I am currently just designing the thing. I am designing it as if I were fabricating it myself, so don't expect any group buy to be a pre-built object.

    Cri7e, I am also very good in SketchUp (see my website Zapwizard.com), but SketchUp isn't a parametric CAD program. Meaning that you can't drive dimensions and angles into the model and have them stick when you modify other parts. But I have access to Solid Edge, which is one of the best CAD programs out there, so why not use it.

    I do plan on cutting most of the acrylic pieces with a laser cutter. I actually used to own a Versalaser. I won it in a PC modding contest years ago. It's laser has since died, but I have experience with them and know what they can and can't do. I also have some friends with lasers who could help prototype these parts. Otherwise the commercial cost of getting acrylic pieces laser cut is pretty much on par with 3D printing.

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    When I tried adding a fourth gear to gear assembly to drive a potentiometer I decided it took up too much room. I also discovered that I made my largest gear a bit to big, and it would hit the inside of the enclosure. So I re-designed the whole gear assembly. Now the orange gear is connected directly to a pot, and so the position of the knob can be read electronically. There is also a threaded insert and key in the orange gear to attach the knob. Overall the gear assembly was made more compact, and I got a 3.33:1 ratio on the final rotation.

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    I have a preliminary design for the rad gauge. I found a very tiny automotive gauge motor. This thing is made to drive a needle accurately, it requires a stepper motor control circuit, but can be controlled by any microcontroller. It isn't a retail part, and so I am not linking to it right now. I don't want to flood the company that makes it with requests for samples. For now, it is the best option to get real angular control of the needle. All the other motors I found were just too big. If I can't get this part, then I will probably design a way to gear down a tiny vibration motor.

    The needle on the gauge motor travels up through a PCB with three white LEDs. There is a defuser layer, and then the printed gauge. I plan on finding a metal watch needle that can fit onto the gauge motor. If not a tiny plastic needle could be laser cut from a thin sheet.

    Also shown is a 13mm PCM mounted speaker. I have tried using same type of speaker before on a door intercom project. It works well if you don't pump a lot of bass through it. Since most of the Fallout radio broadcasts simulate old-school radio quality, it will work okay and should be loud enough. It just also happens to be just about the only speaker which will actually fit under the gears, while remaining directly under the vent holes in the enclosure.

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    I also designed a hinge mechanism. Because one end of the Pip-boy is a larger diameter than the other, I can't just slide one half onto a pin and call it a day. Instead the hinge has to come together horizontally, and a pin inserted.

    I am using a threaded removable pin from McMaster. The pin will insert into the first half of the enclosure. The first hole is tapered so that the further the pin goes the tighter the fit. The pin then goes into the other half of enclosure. The second half will have a tight enough fit to allow the whole thing to rotate. The little cutout at the end will hold the two parts captive; such that it can't slide apart unless the hinge is removed first. Finally a cap screw is installed. This covers the insertion hole, as well as acting as a way to loosen and remove the pin.

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    I want the "Macro Knob" (as I am calling it), to have five distinct detents in the rotation. A detent is the little stop that you feel when rotating a ratcheting wrench. A sort of "click" that stops the knob in the correct position.

    To create the detent, I am using a tiny spring plunger from McMaster. It will mate with five holes in the knob. Each hole is offset from the next by 18 degrees, which allows for five set positions: "Stat", "Inventory", Data", "Map", "Radio". The knob drives a potentiometer. This will electrically translate to "up" or "down" on the Android, depending on which direction the knob travels.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  15. EmilioSantos

    EmilioSantos New Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Sick! Beautiful Model....
     
  16. Frenchtoast

    Frenchtoast New Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    * dude this is looking amazing I saw this here on the ref and then on r/fallout, if you do ever open up a group buy count me in!
     
  17. GBRyker61

    GBRyker61 Active Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    So, is this PipBoy going to be fully functional?
     
  18. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Just to be clear to those who come into the thread later, these posts are put up after each new element is designed. I didn't have all these aspect designed when I made the first post.
    @GBRyker61, The goal is to make the most functional Pip-boy possible.

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    I spent quite a bit of time trying to figure out a good way for the selection knob to work. Because it protrudes away from the body of the Pip-boy, and have very little space to the sides, I couldn't just connect it to a shaft and gear. I also couldn't use an optical encoder such as the scroll wheel on your computer mouse. There simply wasn't room for these solutions.

    At first I thought I was going to use a magnetic rotary encoder. These use a special IC to read an alternating North/South magnetic field. They can be very precise. However most of the rotary models are designed to sit a the end of a shaft. Again I have no room at the end, and I refuse to greatly alter the overall look of the pip-boy. They make what are called "off-axis" magnetic rotary encoders, but those require a highly alternating magnetic field, which means a very expensive, hard to source magnet. So this solution went out the window.

    Finally, I looked at the selection wheel and realized that the texture that makes it have grip is very close to a gear! So that is what I did. I designed a knob which has full gear teeth at one end, and a smoother finger friendly texture at the other. After that it was as simple as connecting a second gear to a rotary encoder. These can rotate continuously and are inexpensive.

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    [​IMG]

    Initially I wanted the gear to be dead-center in the selector wheel, but I needed room for a electrical switch. I selected a 1mm travel push-button switch. These have a good tactile feedback, and are commonly used as power buttons and reset buttons on desktop PCs.

    I also added a spring piston detent just like the macro knob.

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    [​IMG]

    And now the moment everyone has been waiting/asking for. The Geiger counter!!!
    This has been the number one question: "Will it have a Geiger counter", and if we are serious, it can't be called a "functional" Pip-boy without one.

    Well on the back of the Pip-boy is a little white pod, connected to a black textured cylinder and wire. The wire makes me think that this pod should be able to detach from the Pip-boy and be held in the user's hand. Who knows if this will actually occur in-game, but it makes sense in real life.

    What I designed was a pod which can hold the Geiger tube, and has a twist-lock bayonet mount.

    For the Geiger counter I am using the SparkFun kit as a guide. This is a good kit and can even detect alpha particles. Which is why my pod will have a mica disk at the end, to protect the one that already exists on the Geiger tube itself. The threads between the tube cover and cap are left-handed, this makes it harder for these two parts to separate when removing the pod. The rest of the Geiger counter electronics will fit into the back half of the Pip-boy, isolating it's 500V electrical signals from the rest of the device.

    The Geiger tube alone costs $95. Yes, there are many cheap models on eBay. However, going cheap typically means sacrificing quality, constancy and size. So for now, I will ensure the physical model of the Pip-boy will be able to accommodate a functional Geiger counter. If I do a group buy in the future it will probably be an optional kit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2015
  19. GBRyker61

    GBRyker61 Active Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    That is absolutely awesome dude. I tip my hat to you. If there are no plans to do a run of kits, will you be releasing the files of the parts so people can make their own?
     
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  20. zookone

    zookone Well-Known Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    Really awesome work!

    Have you considered creating a custom gear for the selection wheel? This would eliminate the need to change the profile of the selection wheel at at the top edge that is visible. Seems like the gear could be the negative of the selection wheel and work.

    -Z
     
  21. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    @GBRyker61
    I probably will release the files at some point, the files currently look great, but require lots of internal work. This won't be just a shell of a prop, it will have lots of internal components. Due to the high cost of many of the parts it may make more sense to try a group buy then try to do builds individually. I guess what I am really saying is I am not yet committing to either path.

    @zookone
    Good idea, thanks.

    [​IMG]
     
  22. Kerr Avon

    Kerr Avon Master Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    If you complete this one with the details you are designing, you will be a god among geeks.
     
  23. zookone

    zookone Well-Known Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    also I was thinking, the rotary encoder I have already has a good feel to it, with clicks at each stop. The need to the spring plunger you have shown might not be necessary.
     
  24. Getoninja

    Getoninja Sr Member

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    I don't know what this it, but I thought the first picture was the real prop. But what is this thing?
     
  25. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    zookone:
    Not all rotary encoders have built in detents. In fact I specifically selected one without. The reason is I don't want the stops to end up on a odd fraction of the gear turn. By doing it myself I keep control over how the detent feels.

    Getoninja:
    The Pip-Boy is effectively a smart watch from the 1950's. In the game it is your access to status, inventory, map, mission selection, health indicator, etc..
    It has sensors to detect radiation (fallout) as well as other things.
    The upcoming game Fallout 4 has a companion app which runs on android and IOS. So once built, my model won't just be a costume prop, but will be fictional as and in-game controller, as well as have some real world external functions which emulate the in-game functions. That last part is more of a stretch goal.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  26. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Re: Pip-boy 3000 Mk4

    [​IMG]

    Today I designed the holotape mechanism. Let me tell you that I have a new found respect for cassette deck designers of old. The design isn't totally complete. I still want to add a auto-eject mechanism that feeds the tape back out when it opens, and a damper to make it open smoothly. But for now I need the design in place to move on with other internals parts.

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    [​IMG]

    It seems so simple. Press the eject button, and the holotape holder simply pops up!

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    Achieving this effect mechanically is anything but simple. What I had to design was a very compact system of hinges, rods, and slots.
    The eject button pushes on a rod, this in turn moves the catch backwards. Springs pull on lever arms which lift the holotape holder upwards. Springs on the rod pull the eject button back into position. The user can remove the holotape or insert a new one. They then press down on the tape holder. The catch slides backwards a bit and then catches on the hook in the holder. Springs pull it back, and keep everything just where it should when closed.

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    [​IMG]

    All the hardware (Springs, rods, and pins) are McMaster parts. The lever arms will probably be made from aluminum with permanent pins press fit into place. They can also be made from stiff FR4 (PCB material). Speed nuts keep the long shaft from sliding. While it looks impossible for the long shaft to even get into the assembly, it will install at an angle when inserted from the opening where the holotape holder resides.
     
  27. Igniitus

    Igniitus Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    *.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
     
  28. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Im getting my udoo neo early through kickstarter. there was a previous version just called the udoo. It uses ubuntu and I believe it is also android compatible. Ill be doing a working prototype in the coming month with the neo

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
  29. US3R

    US3R Member

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    Those renders on first post had me fooled for a minute. Impressive design work, i'll be keeping a close eye on this.
     
  30. GMBridge

    GMBridge New Member

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    considering RFID or NFC tags in the holotapes to trigger something to happen when inserted into the deck?
     
  31. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    I just got a version of dragonator's model printed at queenie and steve's hub on 3dhubs.com. highly recommend. anyway im planning on making mine functional to the point of being a programming and control platform for my mechanized t-60 power armor that im creating with the partnership of blackout props. ill also be using it a a programming control platform for my self balancing skateboard.
    i like the idea of having a replica but i dont know if ill go as far as to put a legitimate geiger in it as of now. im working my own model using solidworks to incorporate a hidden micro qwerty keyboard. not exactly lore friendly but more purposeful to me. im just having trouble figuring out where to hide a power supply for everything. any ideas?
     
  32. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @GMBridge, Yes this is detailed in the first post.
    @jellis359, I think I will be able to fit a 2Ah Li-Po battery into my enclosure. I plan on having a hidden USB connector inside the wrist band. That way if more power is needed it can be run through a cord in the wearer's sleeve.

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    [​IMG]

    Today, I re-designed the holotape from scratch. This way I am not reusing a part of dragonator's model. Although I did use his model as a general guide.

    I managed to catch a good screenshot of the holotapes off of the E3 demo video. I believe that the rectangle on the back of the holotape is actually an electrical connector. This type of connector is a common power backplane connector used in hot-swappable power supplies. I may even try to see if I can find a actual electrical connector that is close to the right size and build that in. That way the holotapes could be activated just by using different combinations of shorted pins.
     
  33. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Ive just picked up my 3d printed pieces. Im taking the chop-a-block approach and removing material to fit my components. There's plenty of room in this model already it seems. Ill be getting creative with this one.
    uploadfromtaptalk1440798576309.JPG

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
    Neuromancer likes this.
  34. SteveKing

    SteveKing New Member

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    Hey John, looks like you're getting right to it! I'm a bit surprised how many additional parts I needed to print which could have been incorporated into the larger ones so it wouldn't necessitate so many pieces (and less gluing). 43 pieces and 38 hours all together! Let me know if you need anything reprinted. I'm looking forward to seeing this thing put together and fully done up!
     
  35. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That looks cool jellis359, but I would appreciate you keeping your project images to your own thread. (Since your build isn't from my design)
    I think Dragonator's design was split up to fit a printer with a small print bed.

    My design has as many parts integrated together as possible. For example the entire screen surround and front half are a single piece.
    SLS 3D printing doesn't require support material, and so you can make almost any geometry you want.
     
  36. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Np sorry about that

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
  37. Grey

    Grey Sr Member

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    God I want this build to happen almost as much as I want the game to come out.

    I like your take on the "radiation probe" attatched to the back of the Pip-Boy. I've noticed that the wire leads into a circular extrusion on the casing, perhaps there's excess wire wound up on some kind of pulley that can extend and retract
     
  38. Pascal Kurosawa

    Pascal Kurosawa Active Member

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    211
    zapwizard: Mega Awesome. I hope we will see a run as soon as you are finished with your great work.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  39. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Grey, I agree that is looks like the cord is a spring-loaded re-tractable cord. I may take a crack at designing a mechanism to retract the cord. Creating a spring wound reel isn't the hard part, creating a mechanism to lock the cord at a set position is the hard part. However, I want to keep the high voltage electronics for the Geiger counter isolated, and may need the space for that.

    ---------------

    20994256896_ecae8a5704_c.jpg

    Currently I am working out all the locations for the internal circuit boards, the image above is far from final, but gives you an idea of how much is packed inside.. The Beaglebone Black just barely fits inside.

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    20399433153_5df9ba07d0_c.jpg

    Each knob and switch will have its own small PCB. This way the system can be tested prior to assembly. The above image shows the power button board. It uses an amber illuminated tactile switch with a clear cap. A JST connector and short est of wires will connect it to the motherboard. The trim on the switch is a modified finishing washer.

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    21010599312_afc8388c3d_c.jpg

    I am going to use a simple CdS Photocell as an ambient light sensor. It will be soldered directly to a connector (or cable), and hot-glued into the clip-in cover.

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    21028069181_cdd19da795_c.jpg

    I determined that the amber button on the very top of the Pip-boy is labeled "Light". This makes me think that perhaps the white pod on the back of the Pip-boy is a light. On the Pip-boy 3000 the "flashlight" was nothing more than the screen going full bright. At least one person has told me the pod isn't a light, but I don't know what their source was.
    In either case, there is a small amount of room for a set of forward facing LEDs (Flashlight mode), and a set of LED strips (Lamp mode). It is a bit of a risk having LEDs close to the 500V signal needed for the geiger counter. The risk being that the LEDs will burn out if a stray arc crosses into their circuit. So it may end up being that you either select a kit with a light, or a kit with a geiger counter. If I skip the geiger counter, then a IR temperature sensor could be installed in its place.

    ---------------

    20832411190_55f16d2bf7_c.jpg

    Here is a rendering of what the pod might look like when illuminated. I like the lamp effect, but I think I may ditch the forward facing LEDs.
    Any opinions on the light? Anyone else have a source stating that the white pod isn't a lamp?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  40. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I thought that the white pod on the back was a light as well.
     
  41. Mach

    Mach Member

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    162
  42. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Mach, Thanks for the links. Those projects were years ago now, but both were massively popular. However, the Pip-boy is my most aggressive project so far. But it hit all the right cords for me: Gaming, Retro electronics, Design, Electronics, and cool renderings.

    Speaking of cool renderings....

    WARNING:
    To those just scrolling through quickly, the images below are not photos of the finished design. They however are accurate renderings of what I hope to achieve.

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    21038768132_5f9b210dc4_c.jpg

    First off, here is a cool wallpaper I made for me to droll over while I wait for November. I am calling this one "Discarded".
    The background image was originally edited by SLiqster for Fallout 3. I tweaked the numbers on the back of the character and added my Pip-boy and the logo.

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    21022493196_7949c818f4_c.jpg

    Here is a new beauty shot. Click the image to download a 4K copy.

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    I have completed all the exterior design features in CAD. All that is left now is lots of internal work for the electronics. Visible here is the 1/4" neoprene foam padding.

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    21056405771_2c0ecbee67_c.jpg

    The 3.5" LCD screen that I currently have selected won't be high-res or fill the entire bezel. So far I haven't found any 4" 4:3 aspect ratio, capacative-touch screens which are available retail. Before I do any 3D printing I will have to design the electronics and prototype the guts.

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    21022493506_e8bd1c1dcd_c.jpg

    The hardest part to get a source image to reference was the latch on the bottom of the Pip-boy. I had to freeze frame the E3 demo over and over to get different perspectives on the latch. I do have to say they didn't cheat much on the game model. The latch design should work to secure it to your arm. I may add a lock pin feature just to be 100% sure.

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    Finally one comparison shot showing the in-game model versus my rendering.

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  43. Grey

    Grey Sr Member

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    1,685
    I'm kind of hoping the thing on the back is some sort of light now that you've brought it up, because the "light" in the two previous games was awful.

    I like wandering around in the dark getting attatcked by deathclaws as much as the next guy but c'mon. New renders look great.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2015
  44. ThePropBox

    ThePropBox Active Member

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    313
    Haven't played any Fallout title so far but the way you created the Pipboy is truly incredible. Also those renders...
    Unfortunately I've never really worked with 3d modelling so seeing this fills up to the brim with amazement.

    Thanks so much for sharing your great work!! It's a pleasure to watch!
     
  45. JPH

    JPH Sr Member

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    1,135
    whoa!
    too grawesome!
     
  46. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    92
    @zapwizard
    I just finished the first day of my machine design class. I love it! I'm totally gonna use it to design my own pipboy!

    I do have one question however; in your design you appear to be using both potentiometers and rotary encoders for different knobs. Why is this? Could you clarify the advantage of using one versus the other for the different functions of the pipboy?

    Thank you!

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2015
  47. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    jellis359

    Rotary encoders allow for turning continuously, so they are good for a scroll wheel. They however require more pins on the processor to read, as well as more processor time.
    A potentiometer (pot) typically can only turn 360 degrees, and then has to be turned back the other way. It also has a fixed value that can be queried at any point in time by the processor.

    Since the radio gauge only rotates 270 degrees total, a pot works best. I plan on having the left most knob be wired simply to volume control, so there isn't any need for continuous rotation. That may change if I ever find out the true purpose of this knob. (It isn't labeled in-game that I can see, or on the Pip-boy edition).
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  48. nate2297

    nate2297 New Member

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    Are you going to release the cad files?
     
  49. Documentally

    Documentally New Member

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    Wow.
    Thinking your render looks the best. Fingers crossed this becomes reality.
     
  50. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have not decided if I will release the CAD files. At minimum I won't be releasing them until I have built my own physical prototype, and tested all the various mechanical details.
    I am also concerned that if I do a release, someone will try and print it on their low-res 3D Printer, and ask for me to modify it to fit their phone inside. My goal isn't a more accurate looking phone case. It is to make a functional, quality replica.

    Currently the plan is to design this so that it cam be made into a kit. The kit would include both the mechanical and electrical components. The kit can then be done as a group buy. This should discount the overall cost. I am spending a lot of time planning out every detail, including the electronics, bill of materials, prototype cost and production costs.
     

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