Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by zapwizard, Aug 19, 2015.

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  1. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    DanielWGK, All the screws are #2-56 brass round head screws. In my design they are all purely decorative.

    Small project update:
    I found a company in china willing to sell me samples and small runs of their 2-touch capable capacitive touch overlay.
    The catch is they have a 4 week lead time. But there isn't much choice, so I am going with it.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  2. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    do you thin k if this is successful and there was a nuclear apocalypse would you help create vault tec vault tech? sounds redundant ik
     
  3. Funslinger

    Funslinger New Member

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    Just thought you might be interested to know, the part you've got as a light/geiger counter has been shown in leaked videos to actually interface with computers, R2D2-style. You might make it a USB cable or something, if you desire.
     
  4. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @Voltaire Surge, sure.
    @Funslinger, Interesting. FYI, I am avoiding all leaked info. In either case there will be four wires in the cable running to the pod. I need all of them to run power and I2C data. Making it a USB connector isn't appealing to me as the design will already have WIFI and Bluetooth. Also without the IR sensor, there would be little interactivity with the Rad meter.

    -----------

    Project status:

    -Tweaking the design daily, trying to optimize the 3D print as much as possible to lower the overall cost.
    -Waiting on the Udoo Neo, and a capacitive touch overlay. Working with companies in China is always hit-or-miss. Currently they communicated a price and 1 month lead time, but then went radio silent when I asked to purchase samples.
    -Once I play the game next week I am sure I will end up changing a few things.



    [​IMG]

    In the meantime I am also designing a functional Nuka Cola Pistol. You may have seen the rendering already over in Lilykill's thread. He did the original 3D model as far as size and shape. I have re-modeled almost all of it, but still based on his original dimensions.

    This will be far simpler, using a clever trick with a huge capacitor, LED, resistor, and two-way switch to make it so the gun fires a burst of light on each trigger pull. Working on adding sound to it using a cheap Adafruit Trinket. The hard part is figuring out how to make the bottle from clear resin. Most clear resin doesn't work with roto-casting.
     
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  5. Mach

    Mach Member

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    Would it work if it was rotocast under pressure?
     
  6. Grey

    Grey Sr Member

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    Do we know if the Nuka Cola Pistol is supposed to be an actual ray gun, or a toy squirt gun?
     
  7. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @Mach, To get acrylic to cure without bubbles you actually would need to cast it in a vacuum. A very skilled glass blower may be able to make this by hand, or using a mold. Making a mold would be difficult, especially since I need a open tube down the center for the LED, and a recess for the handle and trigger.

    @Grey, Who knows, it may be pure concept art that isn't even in the actual game, or isn't even a functional gun.
    I did the rendering in one day, and did all the electronic layout in another. I haven't rendered up all the electronics shots yet. The electronic function can be very simple and cheap.
    To get a large LED flash using a trigger can be done with just a few components:
    The trigger hits a single-pole-double-throw lever switch. In the resting position power travels from a battery into a very large capacitor. When the trigger is pulled, the energy is dumped quickly from the capacitor into the LED. This results in a very bright flash. Pretty much like a camera flash. The LED I selected can handle up to 500mA in bursts, and should be very bright. Any other ultra bright LED could also be used.
     
  8. HydroFuse

    HydroFuse New Member

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    Not sure if you've seen yet, but the companion app has been released to the public if you want to give it a look. Only the Demo mode is usable for now, but it looks like it has a lot of the functionality.
     
  9. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yep, I saw that it was released. I played with it on my iPhone. I looks great

    So far the app doesn't seem to use pinch-to-zoom if you run it in fullscreen mode. The map seems to be a fixed zoom level. We'll see if that changes outside demo mode. So far getting a 2-touch capacitive overlay is the biggest hold up for the project. If I can use a resistive touch-screen that makes everything simpler.
     
  10. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I had got the impression that it was just part of the Thirst Zapper poster artwork. Would be cool to see if it's an actual item in the game.
     
  11. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    You can bend lexan sheet if you carefully heat it with a hairdryer or heat gun. Its actually quite easy after some practice. That's how I did the mock hene gas tube for the laser musket. If you place a wood analog of the shape you want underneath it will conform to that shape.

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
  12. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    uc?export=download&id=0B2n3dPM0PK0ydm82OERoZE9UMzg.jpg
    GhostMinion, they showed another version in the Fallout 4 artbook. The post version is solid red, this one looks like it actually contains soda.
    jellis359, I have tried thermoforming before but with pretty miserable results. Vacuum forming may be an option. I am willing to bet once I play the game some other gun will capture my imagination.


    Pip-Boy Project update:


    22468762438_b7136a3e7c_c.jpg

    jellis359 has shipped me an Udoo Neo to help jumpstart this project. I am working hard collecting parts and circuit diagrams to combine. I found a TI part which can convert the LVDS video from the Udoo to Parallel RGB. I will have to build some prototype boards to test the parts before doing a complete layout in integration.

    The image above shows the major interactive components, and I finally added a quarter for scale.

    I loaded up the Pip-Boy software onto my Nexus Tablet. I have confirmed my fear, that they didn't enable any keyboard shortcuts such as up/down/left/right. I can use Tasker to apply touch and swipe actions to the Pip-Boy app. Once the game comes out I will know more about exactly how it all works together.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  13. Ziobbe

    Ziobbe New Member

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    Hi, first of all, thank you very much for your effort and will, i found this project when i was looking for 3d models to wonder if i could do something similar, my idea was to use a bluetooth keyboard or joystick, adapt the controls and then add an external battery, will this device have phone capabilities and the possibility to use larger batteries?
    Why not to use a wifi signal measurer for the geiger counter?
    Will it become possible to have the models to customize them in case i wish?
    Thank you very much and good luck for the project. ^^
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015
  14. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    No need to take apart a keyboard, they use cross-coded inputs which are hard to interface to switches.

    Adafruits sells a bluetooth HID device, which has 12 inputs and to your device looks just like a keyboard. It is very easy to use. You can also use a dirt-cheap Adafruit Trinket as a USB keyboard input. I considered using a phone and USB input to connect the various dials early in the project, however it is very difficult to fit everything inside. If you look at the Pip-Boy edition, the phone has to slide underneath the radio gauge display, so it would be very hard to make that part interactive. The phone also sits right up against the macro knob on the side, so you wouldn't have any internal room to place a sensor.

    The Geiger counter display will be driven by the Arduino side of the Udoo Neo. The data fed to it can come from most anywhere. A small custom program could be used to toggle between different sensor inputs, or WIFI signal (Or combined). I plan on releasing the electrical schematics and software as open source, so you can learn and adapt them as you wish.

    I have a Pip-Boy edition on the way today, I will be posting a sort of report on its construction and design. For example, I will try to explain why I think they made certain design trade-offs to get a production ready product. Also, I can't wait to play the game later today and see how the Pip-Boy functions in-game.
     
  15. ac2334

    ac2334 New Member

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    Looking forward to seeing how your time with the game alters/improves the current specs - played all last night - AWESOME!
     
  16. m9365428

    m9365428 New Member

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    I'm in love with this project and hope to see it IRL. I might have a bit of info of use.

    As for the 2 unknown knobs. (small near power button and far top left) The small one near the power button would be for volume in my book after all its near the tuning knob. The other knob may be for screen brightness.

    As far as moving in sub menus what if the bearing cap on the index scroll wheel was a press and hold button for the middle finger. Depress the button and the scroll wheel rebound to change sub menus until the button was released. So thumb on category, index on scroll and select, and middle on press/hold for submenu.

    Internally you only have so much room for a battery and an external jack is a good idea. You currently are using almost none of the internal space in the halo tapes. What about installing a battery in them and having a dc dc charger. AKA put in a halo tape and transfer the power from its battery to the pipboy's battery topping it off.

    Like I said only ideas. I'm looking at a similar project myself but if you get a good one ready I'm in.
     
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2015
  17. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    m9365428, having that be a volume knob isn't a bad idea. I will think about it. In-game it doesn't seem to have any function. It does rotate on the Pip-Boy edition.
    The other knob being screen brightness is also a good idea, especially if I eliminate the ambient light sensor. The side knob is supposed to be a scree focus knob, at least according to the art book.

    I have considered doing a hidden button behind the scroll wheel, either one that can toggle between two positions, or toggle a function. I was thinking of using a capacitive switch, which is far easier to do since I have very little room for a mechanical switch. Two capacitive switches together could even do scroll-up/down. The hard part is that since the Pip-Boy app doesn't support keyboard shortcuts. (I am hoping someone at Bethesda can change that). So scrolling up and down requires that you remember your previous position.

    The holotapes don't have as much internal space as you might expect. I have covered the idea of using the as a battery earlier in the thread. A 500mA battery could it inside, but they would require a secondary charger circuit, either internal or externally. Having one battery charger another isn't possible. Both batteries would be running at 3.7V, and the charger circuits typically require 5V to even operate.

    -----------------

    Project update:

    I have already put 13 hours into the game, played until 8am the first night. I also spent some time with the Pip-Boy edition and gleaned some ideas from that.
    Here are the changes I already plan on doing:

    1) Change the sensor pod into a USB cable interface for charging/updating the Pip-Boy. In-game the white pod didn't turn out to be a lamp at all, the Pip-Boy still just does a bright screen as a flashlight. It is easy enough in Android to make an app that does nothing but show a green screen at maximum brightness.

    2) Eliminate the IR temperature sensor. It it a very expensive single component, and does not emulate any actual in-game function. It also makes the pod more complex to build.

    3) Somehow add an adjustable strap. It does help when putting on your arm one-handed to have it already held down with velcro.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  18. m9365428

    m9365428 New Member

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    I know space is a premium but instead of a strap could a system similar to a blood pressure cuff work? Either a micro electric pump or a manual one could provide the pressure.
    Such a system would make it more universal and could be how it was originally done.

    edit: after thought. electric model could be used on a sim-porous (aka non-porous with micro holes under fabric) to push air around arm and into electronics cavity for cooling!
     
  19. QuantumDominic

    QuantumDominic New Member

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    Is it lifesize? Screenshot_2015-11-10-21-51-00.png im not sure what part of the game you could use to scale it.
    Will the 3D files for the Pipboy be available afterwards?
     
  20. GBRyker61

    GBRyker61 Active Member

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    Hey Zap, I've got some interesting info for you. I've been playing Fallout 4, and I discovered what the white tube on the back of the PB3K MkIV is. It's an Adapter plug, and in-game it's designed to interface with Robco compatible tech, like the console in the image below, which opens the Vault door.

    12244237_10204081329192500_2069266790606803600_o.jpg
     
  21. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    QuantumDominic, How I scaled the Pip-boy to the real world was a few different factors. I have changed the size about four times throughout the design.
    1) Early on there was very little reference, I scaled the design comparing the game character's thumb size and my own.
    2) Later I was forced to scale it up by 10% to fit in all the electronics, and make it better fit my arm.
    3) Once I have more of the design fleshed out I scaled it up another 5% to fit a 3.5" LCD screen.
    4) Finally, I had to scale it up another small amount to fit the Udoo Neo inside.
    My design is still a bit smaller than the Pip-Boy edition, which I think it a bit oversized anyways.

    The 3D files may be released at some point after I execute the Group Buy. Currently I am learning the Udoo Neo, however they haven't released the Android software for it yet, due sometime in December.
    GBRyker61, Yep, I saw this in my playthrough also. I have already decided to simply the overall design and make the pod a USB plug. It will still be able to extend and retract.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  22. QuantumDominic

    QuantumDominic New Member

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    Your probs don't need me to tell you that's awesome. Great job. I agree with the Pipboy Edition, it doesn't look totally realistic to me either, maybe to shiny I'm not sure
     
  23. LoneWanderer

    LoneWanderer Active Member

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    I have great interest in attempting to build a self contained pipboy using my collectors edition, so my question for the very knowledgeable folks here in this thread is: would this be best approached by cannibalizing and re-wiring an android, or attempting a Raspberry Pi build? I would also like to make a usb port for charging/updating the device using the white module on the back, and I would like to have the power switch on the model be the on-off switch for everything in the unit, how hard would this be to do?
    Sorry I am new here and I hope this isn't considered hi-jacking, just looking for some tips here! Any help is appreciated!
     
  24. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    i actually found it to fit my arm perfectly, and be the same size to me as it is to the in game character.
     
  25. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    LoneWanderer, check out this more approriate thread: http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=249750
    I gave that guy some good tips on adding functions without modifying a phone. If you use a Raspberry Pi, you will quickly find you don't have as much room as you expect inside. Also, the Pi can't run Android.

    So I have had some time to play with the Udoo Neo, it works pretty good in Linux, however the Android build won't be out until sometime in December, so I can't tell yet how well it works in there. The cool thing however, is that the Arduino compatible low-power processor side is apparently connected as if it were a USB device. This means, in theory" that I could develop a lot of the electronics on a normal Arduino connected to a Android Tablet, and then it should port over to the Udoo Neo pretty easily. However, I am not getting as much done on that side of the project current, this popular video game that came out recently seems to keep drawing me in.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  26. dobbo049

    dobbo049 New Member

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    Just stumbled across this thread whilst looking for ways to modify my collectors edition Pip-boy (haven't been on here for a while) and WOW! I gotta say I'm seriously impressed with the level of detail and commitment you're putting into this project. At first I thought it looked impossible but I've read the whole topic now and it seems that if anyone can pull this off it'll be you. You sir are a seriously talented engineer! I'm rather jealous :D

    I'll definitly be interested in a group buy for this. I don't care if I have to sell my car and take an circuitry course! XD

    I'll be watching this topic very closely from now on.
    Keep up the good work :D
     
  27. Crossfire0mega

    Crossfire0mega New Member

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    I found this thread while looking for model files to print out the mk 4 and I have to say, this is some impressive work! I would love to get in on the group buy for sure. I have been dying for a fully functional Pipboy since Fallout 3! Please let me know if there is anything I can help with.
     
  28. Rysjin7717

    Rysjin7717 Well-Known Member

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    Wow!! Great work that you've done on this so far.
    A feat of major engineering to bring this prop to life both mechanically and electronically. Subbed to this can't wait to see this completed keep up the good work bro.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530AZ using Tapatalk
     
  29. DanielWGK

    DanielWGK New Member

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  30. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    DanielWGK, that is interesting. Although a bit over my head. Will probably need something like this that can spoof commands such as changing the radio station, or turning on the Pip-Boy light.

    Project update:
    Well folks there is a bit of a delay. Mostly related to real world issues. I just got my appendix removed, and my wife also has some major surgery next week. This has put a huge dampener on money I could put into the project. I do have the Udoo Neo and much of the electronics bits, so I am focusing on that for now. I am going to also work on changes to the mechanical and functions based on how the Pip-boy works in game.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  31. Praetor

    Praetor New Member

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    Set-up a page somewhere and I'll donate!... I'm sure many others will too!... This work is awesome and guys like you pouring in this kind of effort is awe inspiring. Good job! :)

    Just, do us all a favour and put up a parts list and methods for making this ourselves (no pressure!)... I would love to make this!!
     
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  32. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    There is a Paypal donate button on my website: www.zapwizard.com
    So far only one person has made a donation in three months. So I am trying not to rely on that, or necessary solicit donations. My bill of materials is a running mess right now. Once I finish my mechanical changes I can get the BOM compete, except for the many little electronic parts.

    I am thinking about open sourcing more of the CAD design when it gets closer to being done.
     
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  33. Praetor

    Praetor New Member

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    Done. :)

    I can't access the group-buy survey from here (I'm stuck in the office for a while). Could you add me to your list, please?... I can always do so when home tonight, if not.
     
  34. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you very much!

    Consider yourself added to the list and marked for priority.
     
  35. Jakeinator123

    Jakeinator123 Member

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    I hope everything goes okay for your wife, zapwizard. And feel better, those recovery weeks must suck! Good luck with everything, I'm rooting for you! :)
     
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  36. Rysjin7717

    Rysjin7717 Well-Known Member

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    zapwizard, I understand how RL can kick you in the nuts I hope you have a speedy recovery and your wife as well bro. Take some time for yourself to recuperate from surgery we'll be hete when you return.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530AZ using Tapatalk
     
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  37. dobbo049

    dobbo049 New Member

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    Yeah all the best for a speedy recovery zapwizard (and wife)! Take ur time, no rush. We'll still be here :D
     
  38. Praetor

    Praetor New Member

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  39. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @ Praetor, I saw that announced. It is very cool, and great for many projects. However, the Pi can't run Android, and therefor not be able to run the companion app.

    I have two issues with the Pi: One is that they use a processor which no one can purchase for themselves (in small quantities). You are locked to using a Pi module. The 2nd is that they focus almost solely on teaching software with a tiny amount of external hardware. It is great that so many kids get to learn programming on a cheap device, but those same kids also don't get to learn about real, basic electronics. Many learn how to interface one pre-made module to another.
     
  40. Checkeredjaz

    Checkeredjaz New Member

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    I just read all the way through this thread and I'm dying to see where this goes. Maybe if I have the money by the time you finish I'd buy one, since I'm going to be doing a bunch of Fallout cosplay soon.
     
  41. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    Hey folks, sorry so long without a major update. I was recovering from my appendectomy, I was on more chems than I like, but now I am able to get back to my office. I also have been playing Fallout way too much, but loving the whole game so far. But I am itching to get back on this project.

    So I managed to export the in-game Pip-Boy model. I used the B.A.E. - Bethesda Archive Extractor by jonwd7, and then I exported the to a .OBJ file using NifSkope. I was than able to import this into my CAD software as a reference mesh.

    As you can see in the image above I wasn't too far off, not bad considering the lack of reference material at the time. Also, you can see just how much textures, normal maps and tessellation all go into making what is a very low polygon model look so good in-game. The model I exported is the "Hero" model that you see during the loading screens. There is also a lower quality model which has the skeleton arm placed inside.

    I scaled the model to 160mm wide to match my design. Note that the Pip-Boy edition is 176mm wide, so mine will be smaller, and I feel more accurate to how it looks on people's arms. One of the Vaults in the game gave me lots of reference in regards to scale.

    Here are upcoming list of changes I will be working on in the design:

    Mechanical changes:
    -Adjust the hinge design (Already visible above)
    -Adjust the position of the latch and size of the heatsink detail.
    -Tweak the size and position of several parts to better match the in-game model. (Button position tweaks, larger scroll wheel, etc...)
    -Re-model the Holotapes to match the game model better.
    -Add a velcro strap to secure the Pip-Boy during the time you are attaching it to your arm.

    Electrical changes:
    -Remove real FM radio. I know many people including me may want this feature, but I am also trying to cut down the cost and complexity to also get the project done quicker. Instead the tuner knob will probably interface to some android application and playback sounds from the game. All the radio music in the game is only 128MB, so it will easily fit onto a SD card.
    -Remove the light/sensor pod. Instead this will become a USB cable, able to be detached and plugged into a USB socket for charging or updating. I also plan on making a little table-top module that you can plug into that looks like the Vault door socket.

    Other possibilities I am looking at:
    -3D Printed master, then cast all the simpler components to help lower the overall BOM costs. (This only done after my first prototype build)
    -3D printed master, then cast a soft foam interior. Again, to match the game model. I only recently learned of this process.

    A few more donations have rolled in, and I really appreciate it. I will be using those funds to order the LCD touch-screen.
     
  42. Rysjin7717

    Rysjin7717 Well-Known Member

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    Zapwizard,glad to hear that your recovering nicely great job on the corrections to your model.This will definitely be a awesome prop when finished and sadly out of my price range as most props are can't wait to see this prop come to life.
    Keep up the great work bro.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530AZ using Tapatalk
     
  43. pinder91

    pinder91 Sr Member

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    Wow!! There is so much awesomeness happening here. Keep it up and speedy recovery. (y)thumbsup:popcorn
     
  44. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]

    (FYI: Renderings, not photos)

    How is this for a one-day 3D model? I started it just after I made the last post. I imported the 3D model of the in-game holotape. The in-game model is only a few polygons and has no details, but it gives the overall proportions needed. I than overlaid screenshot images to get the little details from the textures. The holotape is thicker and longer than I had in my original model. I think it will fit once I adjust the Pip-Boy model a bit.

    After examining the in-game model, I decided that the white thing on the back is a moveable dust cover door. Similar to have a 3.5" floppy would have. But these things are called Holotapes, so I figure they transmit data using a optical technology. So what I did was put a tiny red LED behind the door.

    -------------------

    [​IMG]

    But wait, what's inside? Just four super simple electrical components: A coin battery, 56Ohm resistor, toggle switch, and 2mm LED. It can easily be assembled by any beginner.

    If I add a cheap Adafruit Trinket 3V Mini board than this can become a real, fully functional Holotape that could transmit a small amount of real data. I may do this to make the design functional on the Pip-Boy. By having the Trinket chip send a single wire serial signal to the LED, and a phototransistor to pick it up, than I can transmit the required unique ID needed to trigger and audio file on the Android side!

    If you want to go to the absolute extreme, you could modulate the LED and transmit actual analog audio signals that could be fed to a amplifier. I once had a pair of Sony Wireless headphones which used Infrared. The headphones just had a FM radio receiver inside, but wired to a phototransistor instead of an Antenna. I don't think I will be going to that extreme.

    -------------------

    [​IMG]

    Here are all the components exploded.

    The screws are real #0 plastic tapping screws, and they are functional. They hold the orange portion of the assembly onto the rest.

    But why is the switch hidden inside? Well, at first I wanted the switch to be activated by sliding the door on the back, but the door travels too far for the little switch.
    I also looked at tiny lever switches, but I couldn't find any that fit the design well, and no matter what some part would be visible from the outside, breaking the authentic look. Instead what I did was make it so that if you rotate the gray spindle, then it will toggle the switch on and off. The two halves of the spindle snap together making it captive after assembly.

    The door snaps onto a rail on the back, allowing it to slide back and forth over the LED. The battery holder is integrated into the 3D model. A few cutouts help route the negative terminal wire.

    In the next week or so I will be publishing the full CAD design and BOM for this Holotape design. I plan on making a few of these before I make the Pip-Boy. These can be assembled easily, and only require the parts to be dyed, no major paint work. They will also act as a proof of concept on the tolerances and surface quality I hope to get from SLS printing.

    My wife is going in for major surgery tomorrow, and the folks at Udoo haven't released a Android build for the Udoo. So besides CAD tweaks, not much will happen on the actual Pip-Boy for a while.
     
    veektohr, Rysjin7717, Sporkey and 3 others like this.
  45. nathanial91

    nathanial91 Member

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    This is amazing man, I will follow with much anticipation!
     
  46. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    So my wife's surgery went well and she is recovering. I wanted to share a story about a fellow Fallout fan encounter at the Hospital. So there I was waiting for them to call and tell me I could visit my wife in the ICU. When I noticed a Vault Dwellers Survival Guide book across the room. I walked over and found a fellow Fallout 4 fan, also waiting for his wife. I told him what I was building, and about this website. He thought it was all very cool. He loves the game so far, but misunderstood the start of the game and thought that you first played as the mother and then at some point would switch to the father. He was on a xBox so no console commands would help. In either case we chatted for a bit about what we liked about the game. He said I should design some power armor, I told him that there were already people on it, here at the RPF. It was a nice respite in an otherwise already exhausting weekend.

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    Project update:

    [​IMG]



    Before I headed to the hospital I designed the custom circuit for the holotape. It will allow the holotapes to actually transmit optical data! Not any real audio or text, but at least transmit a unique ID. The circuit will still use a tiny number of inexpensive components. It could be built by hand, but I plan on doing a small run of PCBs once I get it working on a breadboard.

    he cool part is that you will be able to change the unique ID of the holotape on the fly simply by rotating the the gray spindle. 12 unique IDs will be made possible with a detent stop on each. However, since the in-game design of the holotape has no markings on the spindle it would be difficult to tell which one you selected. So there will be tick marks into the bottom side of the spindle, the marks could be uniquely colored with a pen, or left alone.


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    [​IMG]


    The circuit for the Holotape uses a dual 555 timer chip (556), This chip is one of the workhorses of the electronics industry and if you studied electronics,it is one of the first chips you probably ever made anything with.

    Here is how the circuit works, starting at the left:
    First is a battery for power. Then a cutoff circuit. A PNP transistor blocks all power to the rest of the circuit when the OFF switch is closed. (Why didn't I just use a normally closed sensor switch? They don't make them this tiny.) The switch is a tiny plunger sensor that will be activated anytime the sliding door is closed. So now the holotape only works when the sliding door is opened.

    C3 is a bulk capacitor, there to smooth out the battery power, useful since the rest of the circuit is a repeating on/off signal.

    The left side of IC1 is a simple 555 timer timer circuit. It creates a repeating digital pulse that is anywhere from 650 to 970ms in length. The potentiometer (RV1) is a variable resistor. By turning the spindle you can alter the timing of the pulse. The spindle will have 12 detents built into the 3D print. This will stop the resistor on 12 possible unique values. Why 12? Well you can only 3D print so small of a detent and have it function properly, and there will be some variation in the actual stopping point of the potentiometer, so by using 12 positions, I gain a 26ms margin of error when detecting the signal. The cool part is you can change the tape ID on the fly.

    The right side of the circuit is a 38Khz Modulator. This basically can take in a digital 1 or 0 signal and then puts it onto a 38Khz carrier wave. The carrier wave ensures that the signal can be detected remotely without other signals interfering. This modulated signal is sent out using the red LED. This is actually how your standard IR TV remote works. To receive the signal I use a standard, low cost 38Khz IR remote receiver chip. You will find one of these inside anything controlled with a IR remote. They can be easily connected to a microcontroller.

    To detect the unique ID I will be using the "PulseIn" feature built into the Arduino side of the Udoo Neo. This measures the width of any incoming pulse. Read the pulse width, and translate that width into a command and vola! You get a functional holotape that actually uses optical data transmission.

    The cost of the circuit should be around $7 + PCB costs (I have yet to make a complete BOM.) The 3D printed portion comes out to $23 on shapeways. The cool part is they can dye the orange part. The white, grey and cream parts would have to be dyed afterwards.

    -----------------

    Here is a little Fallout error:
    I noticed while designing the holotape that the lone survivor actually puts the holotape into the Pip-Boy up-side down!. At least up side down as compared to the way the tapes show up when placed on a table, or examined in your inventory. (I am using the printed side of the game holotapes as a "top")
     
    Praetor and Voltaire Surge like this.
  47. Rysjin7717

    Rysjin7717 Well-Known Member

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    866
    zapwizard I'm glad your wife's surgery went well I hope she has a speedy recovery.
    Great work on the holotapes design your skill is phenomenal cant wait to see this prop finished bro.
    Keep up the great work!!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530AZ using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  48. OBI WAN KEN0B1

    OBI WAN KEN0B1 Well-Known Member

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  49. Praetor

    Praetor New Member

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    Great... Now my keyboard is all wet from the drool... :D

    Glad all is well on the medical front. The latest addition to our brood (just 3 months old) is unwell with a cold and you'd think we've got the plague in the house, so I can't imagine what we'd be going through with surgery to contend with!

    This work is excellent, as always. I don't think I've seen such a well-conceived and beautifully designed project. You're making this thing REAL!!
     
  50. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    1,341
    [​IMG]

    I got a lot of work done on the design this weekend. These are most of the Post-Fallout gameplay changes.

    I have done a lot to optimize the overall design. I have lowered the total number of components and this should also lower the end cost.
    The first post-Fallout change is the Lamp/Sensor pod will now become a simple USB cable. I am using a ultra-thin cable so that the spring-loaded spool function will still work well.

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I found a super useful and tiny potentiometer. I found this while working on the Holotape. It is a 360 degree position sensor, which connects like any typical potentiometer.
    it is super-thin, and has a hole through the middle. This has allowed me to use this pot on every knob on the Pip-Boy. Now each knob will simply snap into the Pot. Before I had to have set-screws and multiple 3D printed parts. The extra bonus is now I can connect the tiny knob on the front of the Pip-Boy and gain an extra function.

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Because this Pot has a very wide flat profile, I can actually directly mount it into a 3D printed holder. No PCB will be required to mount it. It does means soldering thin wires directly to the Pot, but this again lowers the cost and component count.

    Since the Pot can rotate 360 degrees I can use it to replace the rotary encoder. Since it is thin, I can now connect it directly to the selection knob. No gear transfer needed.
    I also created a 3D printed holder to hold the selection switch, again eliminating one circuit board.

    -------------------------------------------

    [​IMG]

    This smaller pot also allowed me to create more space around the radio knob gear. I re-did the whole design to get a higher gear ratio.

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    [​IMG]

    Another major change was the Holotape caddy. I extended the overall length of the holotape caddy. This allows it to fit the new game-accurate holotape design I posted earlier. The data connection to the holotape is now optical instead of a physical electrical connection. This means that perfect direct alignment won't be required. A simple IR receiver chip placed behind the holotape will pick up the signal. The IR receiver chip will be mounted directly on the 3D printed parts, again eliminating another circuit board. Finally I was able to figure out a way to have the holotape partially eject when opened.

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    There are lots and lots of other small tweaks not really visible. There isn't too much physical changes left to make.
    I am still working on the electronics also. I will have to go with a resistive touch-screen, as the China companies I found selling a 3.5" cap-touch panel won't reply to my e-mails. This is typical when they find out you aren't ordering 10,000 qty. Getting the parallel 16-Bit LCD screen connected to the LVDS signalling that the Udoo Neo provides will be a major electrical hurdle to get over.
     

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