Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by zapwizard, Aug 19, 2015.

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  1. jellis359

    jellis359 Jr Member

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    Don't forget to adjust all your tolerances for the 3d printed parts based on the extruder head size and deformation of the filament during cooling. I had this issue with my planetary gearboxes. I'd do a test print for all of your circular press fit pieces before committing to printing the whole thing. Ive found that printers generally oversize circular prints due to the above.

    Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk
     
  2. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @jellis359: I have all the tolerances adjusted for SLS 3D printing, which is far more accurate than filament printing. I have lots of experience making SLS parts, including items with moving hinges. While it costs a lot more, the parts can be a lot more integrated together and require very little post-work to use them. Typically only a light sanding is needed, and sometimes holes need to be re-drilled, but that is just about it. A filament simply printer can't do all all the internal cutouts, and other features which are integrated into the design. A resin type printer can be used, but then you loose the flexibility and workability that SLS Nylon provides.
     
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  3. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    zapwizard so, you managed to reduce cost, improve functionality, and also put slightly more room in the pipboy itself? it looks amazing, you took something they was near perfect and upped the bar even higher! amazing! so i assume you'll change the outside to look more like it does in game? ration of the knobs and such. it looks amazing. bet you dont get tired of hearing that huh?
     
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  4. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    also since the pot rotates 360 degrees does that mean it can just keep rotating?
     
  5. gothic

    gothic Sr Member

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    amazing work and presentation very professional and detailed W.I.P :thumbsup
     
  6. Praetor

    Praetor New Member

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    I'm stupidly excited over this... I was pleased with my CE PipBoy, but ultimately a little let-down by the quality (or lack thereof). So this REAL PipBoy is so exciting! It looks incredible!! :D
     
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  7. YenChih Lin

    YenChih Lin Sr Member

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    zapwizard: Aren't you from the far future to build a Pip Boy in our time with our antique technology?
     
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  8. LoneWanderer

    LoneWanderer Active Member

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    Nice I already did that same USB set up on my modded collectors edition. Soon to also have functional Android operation pip boy brains haha. Nice work so far! I especially love your holotape designs.
     
  9. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @Voltaire Surge, I have adjusted quite a bit of the outside to make it closer to in-game. But only to make it more proportionally correct. If I made it exactly like the game model I would have to start from total scratch, and there are some issues in the game model which don't work in real-life. For example, the hinge is sunk in on the game model, making it impossible to open in real life.

    The 360 degree pots will allow the small knob, selection wheel, and left-most knob to rotate 360 degrees. The macro selection knob has fixed detent points, I have added two extra positions to allow for some other functions. And the radio knob obviously has its own limits. The catch with the 360 degree pots, is that some calibration will be required for the Macro Knob and Radio knobs after assembly, as the exact position of the pot may be off. The other knobs are all relative motion (rotating left/or right). Basically I will measure their current position and compare it to their position a few milliseconds earlier. If the value is increasing, your turning the knob one direction, decreasing the other direction.

    @YenChih Lin, I can neither confirm, nor deny that Vault-Tec exists. All I know is I can only to connect to the internet when they keep the big-* door down the hall open.
     
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  10. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    zapwizard I was just wondering if the selection wheel and button would be closer in size and if the selection wheel could continuously turn, like just without hitting a stop and need to be rotated the other way.
     
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  11. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Voltaire Surge:
    The selection wheel on the game model is huge. I suspect that the game model was adjusted for the wide angle perspective that the player camera has. The selection wheel is smaller on the Pip-Boy edition. When I tried making it match the game model it just looked wrong. So I am keeping mine the size I already had.

    The selection wheel can continuously rotate. It will have a spring plunger which will provide 16 distinct detent positions (stops). The detent not only provides a satisfying click, it also helps with reading the position of the pot, as it prevents the reading from drifting too much.

    The small front knob and left-most knobs will also rotate continuously, but with no detents.
     
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  12. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    selection_knob_by_linkmaster101-d9kaz9h.png zapwizard i was actually refering to this area. does this continuously turn, i think you answered that. but will you make this part closer to in game size? the rest of the pipboy is on point without a whole remodeling.
     
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  13. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Voltaire Surge, That is what I am referring to as the "Selection Knob". Yes, it can rotate continuously. I will look at resizing it a bit, I have already altered the proportions of the button and the mounting area surrounding it.
     
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  14. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    [​IMG]


    Remodeling the selection wheel kicked off something I wanted to do anyways. So this week I started from scratch. I re-modeled each major component using the game model as a guide. Each part is now very accurate when compared to the game model. This will make my design even more accurate than the Pip-Boy edition.
    There is lots of clean up and tweaks to be done, such as placing screws. I then have all the interior to re-do.

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    [​IMG]

    By far the hardest part to make 3D is the foam padding. Behind the padding I will have a hard structure. I don't know how the padding will be made yet, it could even be 3D printed and then molded in a expanding foam.

    ---------------------

    [​IMG]

    The new game-accurate model actually has a bit more space behind the LCD, as the display is higher up and the arm-hole smaller than my old design.
    Some areas lost some space, but I am confident that I can squeeze things in.
     
  15. barry99705

    barry99705 New Member

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    Easiest way to make the padding would be to sew 3d-spacer mesh over foam, then either mechanically attach that to the hard inside part, or velcro it in place.
     
  16. zookone

    zookone Well-Known Member

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    Adjustments you made look great!
     
  17. Rysjin7717

    Rysjin7717 Well-Known Member

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    Great work on those adjustments this is going to be a great prop replica when finished and brought to life zapwizard.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G530AZ using Tapatalk
     
  18. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    barry99705, Now that you say that, I think that a thin leather liner, with a soft foam padding underneath could be stitched onto a hard backer. Just like any normal upholstery job. The hard backer could even have preset holes for the threading. The hard backer could still be made in a way that encourages the shapes of the foam.

    However I also still want a velcro safety strap, but perhaps there is a way to have that secured behind the padding with the velcro passing through a slot in the leather.
     
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  19. barry99705

    barry99705 New Member

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    That would work as well, but I'd worry about sweat. The stuff I mentioned is what they use on backpack straps and cushions for breathability.
     
  20. Ariannus

    Ariannus New Member

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    You could use an FDM printer to print the padding inserts out of NinjaFlex.
     
  21. Stags

    Stags New Member

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    I agree with this. I suggest taking a look at how they make sock liners in your shoes. That is the padding that separates your foot from the upper material. I think it should be fairly game accurate in appearance as well if stitched properly. I don't recall the in-game model looking like it had a leather liner but I could be wrong about that.

    Also, this project is amazing. It definitely ticks all the correct boxes for me.
     
  22. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    barry99705, I agree that I want something breathable. The couple of times I have worn my Pip-Boy edition my arm got sweaty within a few minutes. They used a closed cell foam which acts as a total seal.
    Ariannus, NinjaFlex may work well as a backing material, but I would rather have leather or cloth as a final surface. The SLS nylon I am using for the rest of the project is also highly flexible when printed in a lattice pattern.
    Stags, They do make synthetic breathable leather, but a flexible tan cloth as you suggest is probably best in the end. (Easier to source also)

    ------------

    No images yet as the model is still very rough, but this weekend I managed to hollow out the model to a thickness of 2mm on nearly ever surface. While many CAD packages including Solid Edge include a "Thin wall" feature meant for this task, this feature in Solid Edge can't handle lots of curves and intersecting faces very well. What I had to do for the most part was painstakingly cut away at the model using lots of small cuts until it was hollowed out completely. I selectively leave in thicker areas to keep the model stiff where needed. I also did an initial test placement of internal components, and the electronics will just barely fit into the new game-accurate model. Next I have to add back in all the mechanical mechanisms for the holotape deck.
     
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  23. Erebus

    Erebus New Member

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    I'm still reading through all these posts, so please forgive me if I've missed something or if I'm being redundant. This is some TRULY IMPRESSIVE WORK!

    My initial instinct was to give the retractable flashlight a USB connector for charging/data transfer. Does this mean sacrificing WiFi capabilities on the Beagle Bone Black? (You said it only has a single USB port, right?)

    The holotape design is very elegant, but what are the dimensions? I still think you could cannibalize a cheap cell phone backup charger and use that in addition to your selectable optical ID circuit.

    My main suggestion would be to substitute a joystick for the front knob (the one beneath the tuner). Perhaps you could use something like this:
    joy.JPG
    It's low profile and inexpensive and would allow you to play "Red Menace" and "Atomic Command". You could modify the existing knob, or over-mold it, or remove it and replace it with your printed one. I'm just unsure of how many pins you have left on the BBB.
     
  24. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @ Erebus:

    The "sensor pod" is now going to be just USB. This is reflected in my later posts. However the Uddo Neo will still keep its WIFI and Bluetooth capabilities. At this time I am not using a BeagleBone Black, it was too slow running Android. The Udoo Neo Android release isn't out yet, so I still don't know for sure if it will run the companion app.

    However, there are some enterprising programmers working on a stand-alone, Java based, Pip-Boy application. If their work pans out I may not have to use the companion application, and I could run Linux. I could also possible integrate the real-world functions into their application and provide a more seamless interface. In theory I could go back to the BeagleBone Black. There are a few advantages that the BeagleBone still has over the Udoo Neo. It is far easier to interface with the hardware, and it can run a LCD screen directly without a converter, and it can run off a 3.7V battery. Either way, all of the software is still very much up in the air.

    The holotape is 59.4 x 48.6 x 9.3mm. This is the scale needed for the Holotape to match the game accurate model I am working on currently. There is simply no room for a cellphone backup charger inside. And I like that it now doesn't' require any physical electrical connection. An modulated optical connection will be far more robust and won't require exact alignment or pressure.

    That knob you have linked to is about three times the size of the small knob near the radio. There also isn't any room behind the knob for the required circuitry attached to that knob.

    ------------------------------

    [​IMG]

    This weekend I finished up most of the major changes to make the game accurate model back into a functional design. Most of the hardware remains the same, but the entire CAD model was re-built from scratch.

    ------------------------------

    [​IMG]

    I am able to overlay the raw in-game model over my design to double check my work as I go. I also constantly refer to video and images from the game, since the textures add a lot of little details which are obscured in the raw model.

    ------------------------------

    [​IMG]

    The holotape caddy, knobs, buttons, everything was made as close to the game model as possible. The only exceptions are the hinge (game model is actually impossible to open), the display screen, and the slightly smaller illuminated buttons.

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    [​IMG]

    The end result is a design which is about as accurate to the game as you can get with today's technology.

    ------------------------------

    [​IMG]

    Inside there is still more work do to. I have to finish the holotape caddy mounting points, and figure out a way to squeeze cable connectors onto the Udoo Neo. It unfortunately uses a odd connector for the LCD screen interface. Also visible here is the USB module. It's placement affects the signal quality, any nearby metal can affect it.

    ------------------------------

    [​IMG]

    I have made room for a hidden external power cable. This is because the Udoo Neo is not as power efficient as the BeagleBone Black. In fact, as far as I can tell it can't run off of a 3.7V Lithium Polymer battery. I have to add a boost circuit in order to use a battery. So this external connection will probably be required for anyone wanting to run their Pip-Boy for an extended period of time.

    ------------------------------


    [​IMG]

    Here is my sort of marketing image, showing just how much stuff is crammed into the design. Now that all the external details are done, I will probably pop-out some more photo-real renderings.
     
  25. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    woah it looks perfect o.o
     
  26. Gixxerfool

    Gixxerfool Active Member

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    zapwizard

    Couple of questions, being that you're making functional knobs for everything, do you need to run a touch screen it is that just a preference?

    I noticed in game after the Holotapes are inserted there is a guard that seems to pop up behind them, did you incorporate this as well?

    My hats off to you on this build. The designs alone are stellar.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  27. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Gixxerfool

    The touch-screen is probably still needed for general android stuff. If the Pip-Boy java program can be adapted well enough, then the actual Pip-Boy app may not need the screen at all. Plus the two extra control knobs not used in game could always do some other function.

    I tried to put in the cassette guard into the design. At one point I even had it geared to automatically open and close in sync with the pop-up holder. However, there simply no room left inside for the guard. In the game model there is also an actual caddy the tape is meant to go into, but if you look at the animation in slow motion, they didn't even make the caddy move along with the Holotape. In-game the tape is just jammed into the space above the caddy, and the tape clips through parts of the Pip-Boy as it closes. Since this is meant to become reality, I have to allow for space for the Holotape to fit loosely into the caddy, and close properly. RIght now the tolerances are tight. Between 0.3 to 0.5mm for most of the parts. This is very tight for 3D printed parts, and some sanding will probably be necessary to get everything to fit well. The good part is that SLS Polyamide (Nylon) is self-lubricating, so movement should only get smoother over time. I have successfully used these tight of tolerances for commercial designs I have done.

    ---------------

    Other updates:

    I also tweaked the stand design a bit, making it into three parts that screw together, hopefully this will lower the 3D printing cost a bit since it takes up less machine space.

    Once I completed the internal mounting features, I will start working on the hardware BOM and 3D printing cost estimates. Thanks to donations, I was able to order the LCD screen. I have to build a LVDS to parallel convertor in order to use it with the Udoo Neo. I haven't been able to find a pre-made protoboard that will work yet. Udoo wasn't willing to share the LVDS converter circuit they use on their 7" LCD screen. Right now I am seriously split between trying to get the Java App to work on the BeagleBone, it is is far easier to add WIFI to the Beaglebone then it is to interface the Udoo Neo with the LCD. (The BeagleBone can drive a LCD without any convertor needed)
     
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  28. EMEUTIER

    EMEUTIER New Member

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    I have been following this thread for a while now but have only just registered to these forums to post what I think you may find useful.

    I managed to purchase a Pip-Boy edition of FO4 and noticed a diagram in the manual that describe what the certain knobs and buttons are "supposed' to do.
    I am not sure if you have already seen this image or not but I will link it anyway.

    aRJC9K5.jpg

    I am sorry if the image is low-res, i only have a phone camera to use.

    Good luck with the progress of your build, I look forward to seeing the complete unit!
     
  29. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    EMEUTIER
    Thanks for reminding me. I also have a Pip-Boy edition, but apparently never noticed this diagram. The #1 knob, "screen focus," has no use on a LCD screen, so it can be re-assigned to something else. For example there is no "Horizontal" scroll knob to change between the sub-menus. Having the #16 knob be a audio volume knob makes sense.
    I think I may duplicate their diagram when I make my next set of renderings.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  30. Erebus

    Erebus New Member

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    I must have skimmed over the post where you switched to a design using the Udoo. I've been fighting off a flu the past few days; I think I'll need to re-read this entire thread.

    I'm glad the sensor pod will be a data interface, it seems more game accurate.

    Holy *****! I did not realize the holotapes were so small. I imagined something roughly the size of an Altoids tin - maybe 60x90x13mm. Of course you can't fit a secondary battery into that space!

    And now that I understand the scale, I see that a joystick for the small control knob is out of the question. Even if there were a micro-joystick to fit the space requirements, I doubt it would be very robust. It's a shame, though. If the mini-games are ever mimicked for a real life Pip-Boy, they'll likely be played on a touch screen, but I've never felt that fit in with the Fallout aesthetic.
     
  31. Erebus

    Erebus New Member

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    Perhaps something like this joystick could be used for the small control knob!

    [​IMG]

    http://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/seeedstudio-4-direction-joystick-w-switch.html

    It would have to be mounted fairly close to the surface of the Pip-Boy to allow for the travel of the knob (and I can't speak to its durability), but it would allow for the function I previously suggested, and might be small enough to fit the space constraints.
     
  32. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Erebus, I didn't realize they made these as integrated parts.
    I found two small models on Digikey which I will look at using. Model 1, Model 2
    There is more room behind the left-most knob, but that would require two hands to use.

    --------------------------------

    23738885943_68105df478_c.jpg

    Okay folks, here are the pretty new 3D renderings of the game-accurate model. I know, more renderings, but it helps me verify the design and check for any odd shapes which aren't easily visible in the CAD software.

    The image above is rendered in 4K, click it to see it bigger.

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    24257477092_db40d0f7fa_c.jpg

    I rendered the padding as a sort of loose knit cloth. I still need to design the 3D printed structure which will help hold the foam and cloth in place.

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    23737516514_265fc41bbc_c.jpg

    The holotape mechanism is now mostly done.

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    24257477102_831e67d503_c.jpg

    Here you can see the USB data cable pod. I still plan on making a model of the vault door interface this connects to.

    --------------------------------

    24339500056_e04a588727_c.jpg

    Here you can see the backlit gauges. The plan is to try a water slide decal for the rad gauge, and laser-etching through black paint to make the radio gauge.

    --------------------------------



    24070123370_78971a3ddf_c.jpg

    This image imitates the angle at which you view the Pip-Boy in the game.
     

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  33. barry99705

    barry99705 New Member

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    Dude, that's nice!
     
  34. nathanial91

    nathanial91 Member

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    I am currently obsessed with the game (inbetween jobs atm, averaging 8 plus hours a day) and this is looking more and more amazing each time I check out the page! Look forward to seeing a physical thing!
     
  35. LoneWanderer

    LoneWanderer Active Member

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    What kind of total cost estimate will this bad boy next tallying? Any idea yet? Haha just curious with quality and function like this, its gonna run a very pretty penny.
     
  36. ThePropBox

    ThePropBox Active Member

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    I'd give one of my arms for this one. Which one you take is up to you. Awaiting your offer.

    Jokes aside, this is such a wonderful project to watch. Betting my other arm that Bethesda will step in contact with you.
     
  37. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    LoneWanderer:

    Original estimate was between $700 and $800., The 3D printing alone being about half the cost. I am working to try to cut some of the cost, but not at the expense of quality or function.
    ThePropBox:

    Either arm? If I took your left you couldn't wear it. If I took your right you couldn't use it...but you could still wear it, so right it is!
    I also hope that Bethesda takes notice and wants to help the project along. They just slapped a Vault-Tec logo on a $400 set of batteries connected to vibrators, so lets hope they will want to put their logo on their own design coming into reality.
     
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  38. WatchMeSoar

    WatchMeSoar New Member

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    What are you referring to with the $400 battery comment?

    Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
     
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  39. ThePropBox

    ThePropBox Active Member

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    Fair enough, worth it tough!
    Hahahaha I'm not sure but are you referring to the PipBoy edition of the game?! If yes, I didn't know they sell for that high of a price.
    I'm quite sure that you're going to get your credits from them; just let them know in a short email what you're up to bulding right now and I'm quite certain they will check it out. A real-life working replica of their most iconic item of their most iconic franchise (Skyrim aside) won't get unnoticed!!
    Credit where credit is due!
     
  40. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    WatchMeSoar:

    I was referring to the "Vault-Tec Subpac M2 Wearable Tactile Audio System" A $400 vibration pack. Basically re-hashing a very old product. Sure they added Bluetooth, and a battery. But for $400 it better be able to give me a bruise from getting hit by a super sledgehammer.

    I bought one of these gimmicky vibration devices over a decade ago, it was called the "Aura Interactor" and apparently you can still get one for $25, I bought it for that price at a goodwill shop. The guts of it are still somewhere in my parts bin.

    Since both products use an analog audio feed, I am willing to bet is has the same issue of of passing through any and every low-frequency noise as a vibration. Which means every time a super-mutant talks with its low voice, it will feel like the the sound of God is thumping through your back. Open a hydraulic door in the game? It will feel like you just activated a small earthquake. Also, having the vibration on your backside when the action is happening in front of you is also a major disconnect. Hense why I think these things are just a gimmick. Over the years people have tried making directional versions of these things. Some actually interfaced with the games hit code. However typically they only work for one or two games, and quickly disappear off the market.

    Also, for anyone thinking the Oculus Rift is a new concept? Well Bethesda's first ever game "Terminator Future Shock" (1995) supported a few different 3D head-mounted displays.
    That said, I am looking forward to seeing if the Oculus Rift actually delivers with AAA game titles. I want to use one, but not for just Wii style games.
    ThePropBox:

    I know some people at Bethesda are aware of the project (and have posted on this thread). But I will push this more once I actually start bringing this together with 3D printed parts. Also, they don't have the same leverage over their assets like Valve does. Their assets are technically owned by the ZeniMax Media company.
     
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  41. barry99705

    barry99705 New Member

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    *, I was hoping it was actually a big battery pack! Could come in handy for some of the things I do.
     
  42. Ariannus

    Ariannus New Member

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  43. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    any new updates?
     
  44. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Sorry for the lake of update. I have only been able to get to the Pip-Boy project occasionally for the past few weeks.

    One, I am waiting on Udoo to release the Android build so I can even test if the companion app will work. But I am loosing my patience waiting for that. I am thinking about dropping the in-game functionality and switching over to making the Pip-Boy into more of a real-world sensor system. In-game functionality can be later added by a relay program of some sort.

    I also recently had to suddenly get a new car due to a mechanical issue with my old car. Well everytime I get a new car I end up doing a ton of mini-projects on that. For example I last week I installed parking sensors and this week I am hardwiring in a dashcam. The weather has been real nice here in Texas so I haven't spent too much time indoors lately.

    However, I have completed the holotape mechanism, it is now more robust and compact. And I am now working on making the arm-band pieces work so that they can have leather or cloth stitched to them.

    I also recently created the Fallout 3D lighting logo in CAD. I am making some renderings of it for a related project.

    [​IMG]
     
  45. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Hey, any updates on this since last time? just curious, dont want to be pushy at all
     
  46. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    The main reason for the slow down: I bought a new car and am modding that currently, check out my guides if you happen to have a Subaru Forester. I will run out of mods on that soon. It has also been insanely good weather for the past few weeks here in Texas, and so I have been spending most my time on the car and working outside my house and garage. Gotta do that stuff before it gets hot.

    ---------------------

    So Udoo has released their "open roadmap"
    They list Android alpha release as sometime in Q1 (They are already a month late from their original date). They aren't releasing a Arduino IDE until Q2, and there are a lot of issues like getting WIFI to work in Ubuntu. Effectively you can't do much with a Udoo Neo unless the developers have tried it first, or you are a hardcore Freescale programmer.
    It looks like I should have stuck to my guns like I said early in the project and "Not used newly released, or unsupported boards"

    So, here is the new plan:
    Build the Pip-Boy without the Android O/S. Go back to the Beaglebone Black and Ubuntu. Instead create a real-world functional Pip-Boy. It will still be far better than that product advertisement version of the Pip-Boy that Adafruit put out.

    Any in-game functionality could be added later by using Java or Python. There are two separate Pip-Boy companion apps out there that can run in Linux. This one is the most promising:
    http://www.nexusmods.com/fallout4/mods/4664/?

    --------------------

    I have ordered the last of my prototype electronics parts, so currently I just need to get time to start prototyping the circuits.
    The mechanical BOM is also now effectively finalized. I am now working to organize it and get a better price estimate.

    The only part I don't have a hard source for is the tiny watch hand for the Rad Gauge. It needs to be 5mm long, black with a 0.64mm hole. I have scoured every watch part website I can find but haven't found a good match. It may need to be laser cut from a thin sheet of steel. I think that a plastic cut piece will end up warping.

    Also, my work has approved the purchase of a Ultimaker 2 for prototyping. I will be able to use it for personal projects also. If it works well enough I may adapt the Pip-Boy for FDM printing, but my experience still says that SLS printing will make it work the best. I hate the idea of splitting up and gluing together lots of little bit, when a SLS 3D printer can output a part with everything already attached.

    Otherwise the current estimate from Shapeways for all the 3D printed parts is $400. That is with one holotape ($44) and without the stand. ($70)
     
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  47. barry99705

    barry99705 New Member

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    What are the outside dimensions of the main body? I'm pretty sure I can print it in my Max.
     
  48. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    23407789951_ddee717d39_c.jpg

    I forgot I had promised to release the Holotape 3D model for anyone wanting to print their own. Thanks to @LoneWanderer for reminding me.

    I have uploaded the files in both STEP (real CAD) and STL (3D printable files). There are two models, a solid model which can be 3D printed with screw details and all. An a "Full model" which includes the internal electronics. (Although I haven't finished the PCB design yet). The full model has four 3D printed parts that assemble with some hardware. You can easily install and wire in a LED, the major parts are listed in a text file.

    If you want the model in a high quality 3D print, you can order the parts from Shapeways to get the best quality, or print them yourself. Eventually I will offer them for sale on Shapeways. The full model is intended for SLS printing. I suggest ordering the "orange" part already dyed orange.

    The STEP and STL files are on my Google Drive, click here.

    All CAD models and artwork in the link above are released under Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International.
    Please don't make me issue takedowns for prints on Etsy, eBay or one of the many 3D printing websites. (I do watch).

    I have ordered both models from Shapeways and will post pictures once they arrive.


    /Edit @ barry99705. Please don't quote an entire post to add one question, I almost missed your question. But the longest dimension is 160mm. It is not a matter of size. It is the face that most FDM 3D printers are simply not high resolution enough to resolve the small details needed to mount the electronics, and they can't handle all the little overhangs and other features without distortion. FDM 3D printers are great at making cool looking things, but they are not great at holding dimensional tolerances or resolving small holes.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  49. Jake Joke

    Jake Joke New Member

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    So, first of all, I truly want to congratulate you for putting so much passion and dedication to this project. I've spent the last two hours entirely reading this thread, following every your step one-by-one, in order to completely appreciate your work. Your skills are wonderful, your attention for details is incredible, and you're doing something that many people couldn't even imagine. Maybe you're used to compliments, but since I'm not a guy who shares them often, please accept it as a sincere, heartiest demonstration of gratitude.

    With that said, I've stumbled upon your thread while doing many researches for my idea of building a working prop of the Pip-Boy 3000 MkIV, and I wish I had found you sooner (in fact, I seriously think you deserve much more visibility then you have now, so I'll do my best to bring it to you). Actually, I don't really want to build an accurate replica like you're doing, because I'd lack the skills, but I'd just want to recreate the feeling of a functional Pip-Boy, entirely and exclusively controlled by physical buttons. My ideas are very similar to yours: since I don't want to implement too many features, I was simply thinking to use a 4" smartphone running the official Pip-Boy companion app, in which I would navigate using every buttons and switch.

    But that's exactly where I'm having a bad time. As you could see, a normal keyboard/joypad doesn't allow to go from a submenu to another, forcing me to touch the screen in case I wanted to do it. Do you have any advice for me in order to overcome this problem? What would you use to send the input directly from an actual switch? Is it possible to modify the source code, setting the keyboard/pad as the input, in your opinion? You've mentioned Tasker before, but how would it be implemented, since it is an external app? Do you know any other way, like for example some kind of availment of Arduino?

    I've also considered the possibility to use a Udoo or a Beaglebone too, with Android, but the boot time is quite long and whereas all I need is a graphic (but accurate) representation of the Pip-Boy, that might not be worth the expence. Alternatively, I could use a Raspberry Pi running a non-official counterpart of the companion app, but I don't know nothing similar (if you do, please, share it with me), and all I could find was the Pip-Boy 3000A software like that one (wrongly) used in the Adafruit version.

    I hope you can forgive me for all this question, but I'm really into this project even if I'm just a newbie. If there's something I can do to help you sharing your creations, let me know it. Anywyay as soon as I can I will do a donation, hoping this will be helpful to your work. In the meanwhile I wish you good luck and, again, I give my respect.
     
  50. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Jake Joke, thanks for the praise. And I don't need this to explode in popularity just yet, after all it is still just a design, making it real is even harder.

    You could make a phone-based, mostly functional pip-boy. You can use Tasker to convert keyboard input on a Android device into a touch-screen input. That was my plan at least. I have done it before on a Nexus 7 based car PC to control a touchscreen only app , using a Joycon steering wheel button to USB keyboard converter board.
    The easiest way to get physical device to keyboard input is to use a Arduino. Adafruit and Thinkgeek both have detailed guides on USB input. The Adafruit Bluefruit is even simpler, but it only does button presses, not rotary input.

    I mentioned one of the Python based unoffical compaion apps above: http://www.nexusmods.com/fallout4/mods/4664/?
    The other one I am watching is a Java app, but development seems to be stalled: https://github.com/RobCoIndustries/pipboy/
    Once I get my Pip-Boy into physical form I am hoping one of those developers will help me out with the game interface.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018

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