BTTF Futaba Delorean Remote Project

Does anyone want to send me a set of the Molex Switch switches if I was to purchase some. I am in Australia and they cost an absolute fortune to send here. Also does anyone have info on the knob from the unibox. I can't find the thread that lists it. ive been wanting to finish this remote for years.

I found the link that Charles Kline had supplied, BTTF Remote Control, thanks Charles! Same question though, if anyone is interested in onshipping a set of all these to me in Australia I'd gladly order another set for your trouble.
 
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I think the info on the box can be found within this thread. The displays are basically impossible to find as original. A lot of people just use 7 segment LED displays and make them look similar to the prop. I had been working on making 3D printed versions of the originals but have not had a lot of time to work on them as of lately.
 
Reading through all the dead threads about this item is incredibly frustrating. Don't see why these keep dying such horrible deaths, since there were so many participants in them.

I've searched and searched though the numerous BTTF futaba remote threads, and no where found any reference to what people have used for the red illuminated toggle switch on the left side below the molex button. It's got a chrome bezel on the face, a feature which seems impossible to find.

Any one able to help with this? My thanks in advance.

rickrickrick
aka the dead thread necromancer
 
I've searched and searched though the numerous BTTF futaba remote threads, and no where found any reference to what people have used for the red illuminated toggle switch on the left side below the molex button. It's got a chrome bezel on the face, a feature which seems impossible to
Hey Rick. Sorry I can’t be too helpful but mine says “Made in UK” on the back.
CDC0D01C-822A-4C5F-AEB0-117B0EEC6FE1.jpegB1A89152-4080-4F2C-B55B-029C65FE2492.jpeg4FBA47AB-2A43-447A-8C9E-72EB9679BEFF.jpeg70143752-34BC-419E-B056-72237A52D64B.jpeg
 
Thanks, JF. Is that bezel painted silver, rather than chromed? It looks like it is. I have seen ones like that, but is the red translucent box on the back correct? The box on the original looks black to me - but I'm not 100% on that.

RRR
 
The "pot," if you will - the structure around the switch's lever - looks black, as does the "box." The bezel nut - or whatever the correct term is - looks to be a smooth chrome ring with sloped sides, not straight sides that are knurled, or a hexagonal retaining washer, as I see on so many replicas. I've attached a closeup of a screen grab, and a product photo of a toggle switch with the sort of bezel or retaining nut that I think is close. I haven't found any illuminated toggle switch that has all those features.
 

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The red paddle switch changes on screen, my guess is that one was one was from the Eric Stoltz shooting and the other was when shooting with MJF. The scenes where MJF is actually on the screen with the remote only appears to have one (I forget if red of black housing) so that’s why I assumed that. So technically both can be accurate.
 
Wow, it's amazing how different your screen grab looks from the one I was using (not generated by me). And in your pic the retaining ring looks to be the common chrome knurled one I often see. Thanks for the pic! Yes, they look so different, I was thinking the same - that they actually might be different ones - the one with the broken off "on" switch, and the other one. (I forget offhand which is the one with more rounded corners around the plate for the number display.)

RRR
 
Well, the unibox manufacturer is hard to reach! But I finally got through (don't bother emailing them thru their website - just call), and ordered some 140s. They have a minimum order of $35 plus shipping, so I had to pay for five 140s, plus shipping. But I now have them in hand, with three to spare, so if you'd like to buy one, message me here.
 
Interesting how little actual information there is in this thread about people's builds.

I couldn't find anything about this anywhere else, so, forgive me if this seems trivial or is covered somewhere I missed, but we can all agree that the tabs on the sides of the molex switch that snaps it into a panel are removed, correct? Otherwise you can't get it to sit flush against the futaba, or make it sit as far back from the front as it looks.

molex.jpeg
molex2.jpeg


RRR
 
I have actually replicated the Stanley displays for printing and was gonna do the same by making kits and what not. They were designed off castings of the Stanley’s. I just haven’t moved forward since there seemed to be little interest in them.
 

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