Endless? Awesome. The Molex's are almost impossible to find - and the red "STOP" lens is truly a white whale.
BTTF Futaba Delorean Remote Project
- Thread starter DB537
- Start date
Endless? Awesome. The Molex's are almost impossible to find - and the red "STOP" lens is truly a white whale.
The intention right now is that the molds for the STOP lenses and Stanley Blocks will go to who I plan to have take over the project. I spent some more time this weekend working on stuff and hopefully will have things buttoned up by the end of the week.
This whole thing is still very much in the air - just trying to figure out the best way to land at this point
-Gary
This whole thing is still very much in the air - just trying to figure out the best way to land at this point
-Gary
BTW - you guys are concentrating too much on finding a Rotex 880. I have a box of 50 labelers here from my years of buying them on eBay so I could identify the 880 as the one with the accurate font. But I only did this for the Flux Cap - because the letter "Y" differs between the font on the Dymo and Rotex labelers. That's the only difference I can remember. Don't bust your balls about finding the 880.
Regardless, it's a ****ing pain as the 880 doesn't have the correct letter spacing. If anyone knows an easy way to adjust the labeler to give the right spacing I'd love to hear it. Otherwise I suspect the art dept used a different labeler. Probably a Rotex though, just because that has the right font.
For the tape though - you definitely want to try and find the Rotex brand. It's the correct tape, it's a much brighter shade of red than the Dymo and other brands.
Regardless, it's a ****ing pain as the 880 doesn't have the correct letter spacing. If anyone knows an easy way to adjust the labeler to give the right spacing I'd love to hear it. Otherwise I suspect the art dept used a different labeler. Probably a Rotex though, just because that has the right font.
For the tape though - you definitely want to try and find the Rotex brand. It's the correct tape, it's a much brighter shade of red than the Dymo and other brands.
Alrighty... Anyone know of a source for solder pins that are individual and can mount to the circuit board and then go straight up? I need about 3/4" length or so.
-Gary
-Gary
If they are on there, I'm not looking under the right search terms
-Gary
-Gary
is this what you need gary :cool
5-1437535-4 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser
5-1437535-4 TE Connectivity / AMP | Mouser
If they are on there, I'm not looking under the right search terms
-Gary
That's probably not going to work. I'll post a sketch later about what I'm looking for. I COULD just use pieces of copper wire, but something specially made for the job would certainly be better.
-Gary
-Gary
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
Fluxcapacitor
Well-Known Member
Quick update. Making a mold tonight of the back sockets for the Stanley Displays. Hopefully I'll be doing a test casting of this new part by tomorrow evening. I'm also making a fresh second mold of the main 3-up body of the Stanley displays. This will let me (or the new project head). Cast two at a time instead of just one. The back socket mold is also a 6-up, so the plan is to be able to pour at least two sets as once.
Expect pics tomorrow.
-Gary
Expect pics tomorrow.
-Gary
Ok... I'm going to go on the record and say that these things are a PAIN. Almost on par with the 2015 Bottles. Where the 2015 were labor intensive, these things will kill you on just the sheer amount of details required.
View attachment 101435
View attachment 101436
See... alot of details. The stanley is made up of 8 pieces not including the LEDs, wiring, and diffusion films. The real killer are those lenses. They can break just by looking at them the wrong way. You can get a more secure assembly with CA Glue, but it's ALOT more messy than the solvent welding. I still need to fine tune that problem.
As planned, the castings for the back sockets turned out great. I'm glad I made two molds. The first one is not pouring as planned and I will need to make a different pour gate setup for the second. These things are just too thin to cast the way I wanted to originally.
View attachment 101437
View attachment 101438
Tomorrow, I need to drill out these sockets for the leads and then try my hands at a test assembly of all the parts - may even have a lighting test or two ready if I get lucky (don't cross your fingers).
-Gary
View attachment 101435
View attachment 101436
See... alot of details. The stanley is made up of 8 pieces not including the LEDs, wiring, and diffusion films. The real killer are those lenses. They can break just by looking at them the wrong way. You can get a more secure assembly with CA Glue, but it's ALOT more messy than the solvent welding. I still need to fine tune that problem.
As planned, the castings for the back sockets turned out great. I'm glad I made two molds. The first one is not pouring as planned and I will need to make a different pour gate setup for the second. These things are just too thin to cast the way I wanted to originally.
View attachment 101437
View attachment 101438
Tomorrow, I need to drill out these sockets for the leads and then try my hands at a test assembly of all the parts - may even have a lighting test or two ready if I get lucky (don't cross your fingers).
-Gary
Hey Gary, great job! I think a lot of people are waiting on a run like this, even more than the run of Pepsi Bottles... Although it seems to be a pain, I really hope you go through with this, since this remote is one of the few "holy grails" in prop-world, I think...
As promised... lighting tests.
View attachment 101558
View attachment 101559
Please note - these are VERY ROUGH tests. I still need to get some of the lighting film that they used on the real units. For the original displays they used a colored gel and then a white diffusion sheet under the lens. This gave them either the red color (Speedo) or the Amber (Futaba). For this project I'm using LEDs instead of GOW Bulbs. Right now I have this rough wired to two AAA Batteries. If I wanted to use the 9V batts on the back I will obviously need to wire in some resistors or get the proper chase circuit wired up.
View attachment 101560
I think I figured out the back sockets. I'm going to run 22 ga wire through the sockets and then solder the main leads on the back, then put some heat shrink tubing on then to dress them up. Probably not screen accurate, but without real solder tabs, this is about as good as it's going to get.
Now I just need to figure out the wiring colors for the back - ugh. Anyone have any ideas? I don't have a copy of the blu ray, and my references aren't high enough resolution to lock them down.
-Gary
View attachment 101558
View attachment 101559
Please note - these are VERY ROUGH tests. I still need to get some of the lighting film that they used on the real units. For the original displays they used a colored gel and then a white diffusion sheet under the lens. This gave them either the red color (Speedo) or the Amber (Futaba). For this project I'm using LEDs instead of GOW Bulbs. Right now I have this rough wired to two AAA Batteries. If I wanted to use the 9V batts on the back I will obviously need to wire in some resistors or get the proper chase circuit wired up.
View attachment 101560
I think I figured out the back sockets. I'm going to run 22 ga wire through the sockets and then solder the main leads on the back, then put some heat shrink tubing on then to dress them up. Probably not screen accurate, but without real solder tabs, this is about as good as it's going to get.
Now I just need to figure out the wiring colors for the back - ugh. Anyone have any ideas? I don't have a copy of the blu ray, and my references aren't high enough resolution to lock them down.
-Gary
Egon Spengler
Master Member
So very interested in a kit.
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