I think that Bandai is utilizing a variation of light piping instead of Raytheon lighting. But I may be wrong. *shrug*The clear parts make it easier to give a light effect for an area with a spotlight on it?
A technique I believe called Raytheon lighting
essentially you put the LED on the inside right against the area, sand a bit of you light blocking away and the LED makes the plastic shine like there is a spotlight on it.
This is not my pic, but it gives the idea
View attachment 1056163
I built one of those mini Bandai SD's years ago and finished it off with a coat of Tamiya primer white. It's been fine.My experience was decidedly different. The Tamiya Fine Surface Primer I used on the first Bandai kit I built, caused the plastic engine rods to crack and break on the Y-Wing, which is when I learned that lacquers and enamels are a risk to use on them.
Since then I have used Stynlrez with excellent results on Bandai kits with no worries or risk to the plastic.
I built my Bandai SD yesterday--amazing detail. But I do wish they'd have done a larger version. I would gladly have paid $300-$400 for something two or three times larger with this lighting system.
I just looked at mine (finally have it in my home) and it might be quite the opposite - putting hull on cardboard might be the cause of warping, because it's underside it's not even, yet they decided to almost squish it on that cardboard.They're not warped, they're just happy to see you.
On a serious note, I wonder if that is why the started putting some of the First Edition hulls on cardboad? Mine did not have that luxury.