Bandai release schedule
- Thread starter TazMan2000
- Start date
Next blog entry shows working with the clear parts:
schizophonic9.blog103.fc2.com
And I would add, the perils of such:
Not saying you shouldn't, just make sure you get a good light blocking layer down first.
1/5000 スター・デストロイヤーを作る その３
カット済みのマスキングシートをさらにカットして細々としたマスキングを続けているスター・デストロイヤー。今回はまだどちらを使うか決めていない初回生産分に付属するクリアパーツとノーマルのパーツを塗装し、どんな感じになるか比較してみようと思います。塗装してみるのは機体横のパーツ（トレンチ）です。初回分に入っているクリアパーツは表側から塗装を削る事でクリア地を露出させ発光箇所を増やしたり、開口されている穴...
And I would add, the perils of such:
Not saying you shouldn't, just make sure you get a good light blocking layer down first.
Last edited:
Next blog entry shows working with the clear parts:
1/5000 スター・デストロイヤーを作る その３
カット済みのマスキングシートをさらにカットして細々としたマスキングを続けているスター・デストロイヤー。今回はまだどちらを使うか決めていない初回生産分に付属するクリアパーツとノーマルのパーツを塗装し、どんな感じになるか比較してみようと思います。塗装してみるのは機体横のパーツ（トレンチ）です。初回分に入っているクリアパーツは表側から塗装を削る事でクリア地を露出させ発光箇所を増やしたり、開口されている穴...
And I would add, the perils of such:
View attachment 1055988
Not saying you shouldn't, just make sure you get a good light blocking layer down first.
What's the best black paint for light blocking clear parts?
robn1
Master Member
Looks like the clear parts don't work so well at this scale, as the light blocking paint can't get into the recesses. And as it is the detail is softer than the colored parts because of the extra paint layers.Next blog entry shows working with the clear parts:
1/5000 スター・デストロイヤーを作る その３
カット済みのマスキングシートをさらにカットして細々としたマスキングを続けているスター・デストロイヤー。今回はまだどちらを使うか決めていない初回生産分に付属するクリアパーツとノーマルのパーツを塗装し、どんな感じになるか比較してみようと思います。塗装してみるのは機体横のパーツ（トレンチ）です。初回分に入っているクリアパーツは表側から塗装を削る事でクリア地を露出させ発光箇所を増やしたり、開口されている穴...
And I would add, the perils of such:
View attachment 1055988
Not saying you shouldn't, just make sure you get a good light blocking layer down first.
I'd say save some money and get the standard kit, and go DIY for the lighting. Some warm white LEDs and a power supply should be $20 or less. Place as many LEDs as needed to reach around all the obstructions and light all the windows.
I also wouldn't bother with stringing fiber, just the LEDs. If the windows need diffusion just insert short slices of fiber in the holes, half to one inch long. Less time and tedium this way, and it works as long as there is enough light inside.
Fett_Ish
Sr Member
I am really missing the value of the clear parts. If I get one, it'll be the Standard. Hopefully someone will scan the booklet though, more ref is always good.....Unless you are Invar, in which case it just makes a magnifying glass grow over your eye and causes Plastruct stock to skyrocket.
INVAR
Sr Member
I am sad that I have that debilitating greeblie disease. I caught it when gifted a GB of high res photos of the ILM filming model and as the disease progressed, surgically implanted head magnifiers accompanied by millions of bits of photo-etch brass, plastruct and styrene chaff were littered about, finding their way painfully into the soles of feet. It's a horrible condition that seems only to go into remission when I buy a new Bandai kit.
That said, I decided not to use the clear parts based on some of the Japanese builds I saw. Overall I do not want to invest as much time on this kit as I have the Zvezda. My main motivation to get the limited edition lit kit is simply because it's Bandai; it's going to be a superior engineered kit with insane detail and I want to get it built, painted and lit with as minimal fuss as possible.
I thought about just getting the standard kit, but when I saw in build vids from Japan what was going to be necessary to carve, shape and mold light diffusers out of styrene to distribute the LED light - I said to myself that the extra fifty bucks in the limited edition itself was going to be worth it just for time and aggravation's sake.
That said, I decided not to use the clear parts based on some of the Japanese builds I saw. Overall I do not want to invest as much time on this kit as I have the Zvezda. My main motivation to get the limited edition lit kit is simply because it's Bandai; it's going to be a superior engineered kit with insane detail and I want to get it built, painted and lit with as minimal fuss as possible.
I thought about just getting the standard kit, but when I saw in build vids from Japan what was going to be necessary to carve, shape and mold light diffusers out of styrene to distribute the LED light - I said to myself that the extra fifty bucks in the limited edition itself was going to be worth it just for time and aggravation's sake.
Analyzer
Master Member
The clear parts make it easier to give a light effect for an area with a spotlight on it?
A technique I believe called Raytheon lighting
essentially you put the LED on the inside right against the area, sand a bit of you light blocking away and the LED makes the plastic shine like there is a spotlight on it.
This is not my pic, but it gives the idea
A technique I believe called Raytheon lighting
essentially you put the LED on the inside right against the area, sand a bit of you light blocking away and the LED makes the plastic shine like there is a spotlight on it.
This is not my pic, but it gives the idea
It seems like the 'diffusers' as they are being called, are in the Standard edition:
In case the link does work correctly, go to the 3:15 mark.
that's probably idea borrowed from gundams, where you have special clear editions of the kits, just for showing some internal structure and details of the kit, which are normally covered with armor. There's no real purpose from model-building point of view, that's entirely "just for **** and giggles". Even official description of the item mentions that clear parts are for showing how internal lightning works.
Timmythekid
Sr Member
Soooo....hail Mary here. Standing in the shop about to pick up my ISD kit, and they're sold out of Mr Surface black primer. The owner has suggested a big can of Vallejo rattle can hobby paint instead. Has anyone used this stuff, and what do you think for priming the fine details on this kit?
INVAR
Sr Member
AAARRRRRGHHHHHHH! I missed that!
That would have made a difference in choosing which kit to get.
Ah well. I preordered this thing back in February and Amazon cancelled my pre-order, thankfully I had another place I plunked down an order and supposedly they are getting them in this week to ship out. We shall see.
Speaking of Amazon - I just got notified that the Super Star Destroyer Vehicle Kit that I was supposed to have delivered by today - has been made unavailable until November sometime and that they may cancel my order if the vendor changes the delivery date again.
Games Workshop Chaos Black is a very nice paint. Their Corax White sucks, since it's grey and not white. But the black is terrific - smooth and opaque.
Robert McLain
Sr Member
I know a lot of members here don't have an airbrush, so choose your rattle can paint carefully. The details on this beauty are TINY....some of the finest I've seen. it would be a shame to obscure any of it.
Robert
Robert
Richard Baker
Sr Member
^This is one of the main reasons I am considering using the opaque parts instead of the clear ones on my build. While I love the idea of adding many more windows by scratching open places on the clear, I really would hate to obscure detail and make parts fitting too tight by having to paint a blocking coat, then painting over that.I know a lot of members here don't have an airbrush, so choose your rattle can paint carefully. The details on this beauty are TINY....some of the finest I've seen. it would be a shame to obscure any of it.
Robert
I am going to finally decide after I get my kit in my hands to examine fist hand and read through those building before me.
I also had an amazon update telling me my SSD is delayed till next month. It's a real kick in the leg to see delivery by tomorrow then today a lol jk see you next month. I just canceled and put in a order for the double pack. Those are at least supposed to be in by the 20th, so they say.
Vallejo primer is complete garbage. Avoid at all costs. If you want water based, go with Stynylrez.
Timmythekid
Sr Member
Well...huh. After reading what reviews I could find of the stuff (only released this year apparently?) I picked up a can because 1) everything I read was thumbs up for miniatures and 2) being acrylic, seemed like a safe bet for this bandai plastic. Guess I'll be making use of those clear species after all to test it out.
Oh, I see, you mean the Vallejo spray can. I can't say how good or bad that is. But their airbrushable primer is crap.
INVAR
Sr Member
I concur. Great stuff.
