Bandai release schedule

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Timmythekid

Sr Member
My lighted ISD arrived also. Not very impressed with that included booklet- more like a couple of small pages with postage stamp photos.
Not sure which direction I am going to take this kit, watching other peoples build ups to look at options. Right no wI am inclined to give the clear pieces a try, but I am going to paint them on the sprues and see how they look before assembling anything so if it looks like crap or detail gets too blurred I have the standard pieces for backup.
Been thinking about this too. I'm going to try a black primer on the clear parts as a test, and see how that goes - doubt I'll actually use them for anything. I'm also thinking the way to go with this may be to paint small sub-assemblies, like, say the hangar bay, first and then assemble. It just seems like it's going to be soooooooo fiddly trying to get into all those nooks and crannies if I build first and then paint. Only real worry is just how tight some of these tolerances are.
 

INVAR

Sr Member
Mine will be here Thursday sometime. Do not know if I will be able to get into the build until next week sometime.

I do know that the only modifications I plan to add is the antennae atop the shield generator domes, a couple of tiny greebs on the side trench that were obviously too small to mold at that scale and either small bits of fiber or clear glue in the provided window holes to shunt the LED hot spots.

Right no wI am inclined to give the clear pieces a try, but I am going to paint them on the sprues and see how they look before assembling anything so if it looks like crap or detail gets too blurred I have the standard pieces for backup.
I will be very interested to see what results you achieve although at this point I am thinking I am going to stick with the opaque parts.

I'm also thinking the way to go with this may be to paint small sub-assemblies, like, say the hangar bay, first and then assemble. It just seems like it's going to be soooooooo fiddly trying to get into all those nooks and crannies if I build first and then paint. Only real worry is just how tight some of these tolerances are.
I plan to paint and detail before assembly also, although I am going to have to be very careful around the locking joins because the build vids do confirm that the tolerances engineered for this are very tight. Primer and paint could cause some issues and I wonder if some of the warping on the Japanese builds are the result of trying to mash the top and bottom hulls together after they were primed and painted. Unsure of that but analyzing in the ether nonetheless.

The detail looks on the build pics and vids to be extremely fine - so I am wondering aloud if I should forego priming and just do the color base coat as both primer and color to preserve the details? I've used the grey Stynylrez primer with excellent results in the past, and I am thinking of investing in White Stynylrez and maybe mixing that with just a hint of airship grey to produce the off-white color I want the ship in. I will be excited to see everyone's builds on this kit and see all the different approaches taken in building this kit.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Wolfy762

New Member
I actually saw a couple builds in Japan that showcase that exact problem and I am worried about it.

View attachment 1056384View attachment 1056385
Just got my lighting version of the kit and was test fitting... yea i noticed the warping right away. Will try removing the front trench tabs as suggested. The top and bottom parts of the main hull + the trenches are all straight until the tabs are involved. Im glad you guys brought this up - thought it was just me. This kit has AMAZING detail that I have been waiting for since I built one of those really off key 1990s ertil kits back in the day.
Side note the lighting kit comes with almost enough parts to build a separate bridge tower section and main docking bay.

IMG_20190910_193612.jpg
IMG_20190910_193655.jpg
IMG_20190910_193710.jpg
 

Sindariel

Active Member
I think i'm gonna pass on this kit for the time being and hope that Bandai is aware of this issue and will improve the kit...
 

r0ver

Well-Known Member
Just got my lighting version of the kit and was test fitting... yea i noticed the warping right away. Will try removing the front trench tabs as suggested. The top and bottom parts of the main hull + the trenches are all straight until the tabs are involved. Im glad you guys brought this up - thought it was just me. This kit has AMAZING detail that I have been waiting for since I built one of those really off key 1990s ertil kits back in the day.
Side note the lighting kit comes with almost enough parts to build a separate bridge tower section and main docking bay.

View attachment 1057908View attachment 1057909View attachment 1057910
So is it essentially the tabs that warp the front part of the hull then? And removing them definitely gets rid of the issue. Just trying to prepare myself for when mine arrives.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Richard Baker

Sr Member
After looking over the lighted kit better I think going with the nonlighted edition is a great move. The casting of the window holes in the opaque plastic is exceptional and should work well with a home brew lighting system. The other perk- the 'special' guide they included, is very disappointing.
I have a number of projects still in front of this kit awaiting attention, I am going to relax and watch other builds to help guide mine later. The only reason I preordered it was the first run perks which will not be available later but I do find them not quite what I had hoped.

The kit is fantastic through- the level of detail Bandai has managed is stunning. I was happy with the Zvezda but it looks like it was made from Legos compared to the Bandai kit.
 

r0ver

Well-Known Member
After looking over the lighted kit better I think going with the nonlighted edition is a great move. The casting of the window holes in the opaque plastic is exceptional and should work well with a home brew lighting system. The other perk- the 'special' guide they included, is very disappointing.
I have a number of projects still in front of this kit awaiting attention, I am going to relax and watch other builds to help guide mine later. The only reason I preordered it was the first run perks which will not be available later but I do find them not quite what I had hoped.

The kit is fantastic through- the level of detail Bandai has managed is stunning. I was happy with the Zvezda but it looks like it was made from Legos compared to the Bandai kit.
The reason I’m hoping to use the clear runners is that besides using the premoulded holes, I was hoping to be able to scratch some pin pricks of paint off to have additional lights coming through. I’ll need to try it out to see how it works.
 

Laserschwert

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Do the pre-cast window holes require fibre optics, or will the diffusers (which are obviously coming with the non-LED kit as well) with some LEDs behind them work well with the holes?
 

edge10

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Do the pre-cast window holes require fibre optics, or will the diffusers (which are obviously coming with the non-LED kit as well) with some LEDs behind them work well with the holes?
They do not require fiber optics. They might look better with fiber, but it is not required.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

DanielB

Sr Member
I might be insane, and may not eventually go through with it, but I've thought about filling the kit supplied window holes because they are far too large. I thought about taking a mini drill and then putting in my own smaller windows. We'll see.
 

Timmythekid

Sr Member
I might be insane, and may not eventually go through with it, but I've thought about filling the kit supplied window holes because they are far too large. I thought about taking a mini drill and then putting in my own smaller windows. We'll see.
The holes Bandai has done are already 0.25mm if I remember correctly. I briefly thought about drilling my own, but then remembered I've been drilling .25mm on my big Z, and THOSE were a pain in the rump because of how hair-fine the bits are. I can't imagine trying to go even smaller for the Bandai. That said, all the luck in the world to you :)
 

DanielB

Sr Member
The holes Bandai has done are already 0.25mm if I remember correctly. I briefly thought about drilling my own, but then remembered I've been drilling .25mm on my big Z, and THOSE were a pain in the rump because of how hair-fine the bits are. I can't imagine trying to go even smaller for the Bandai. That said, all the luck in the world to you :)

Well, once I finally get my kit tonight, I can take a look and see if I change my mind. Heh.
 
Last edited:

Wolfy762

New Member
So is it essentially the tabs that warp the front part of the hull then? And removing them definitely gets rid of the issue. Just trying to prepare myself for when mine arrives.
r0ver i think it just might - Here is what I got be removing the lower middle tabs so far from each of the 4 trench inserts. I also widened the tab holes for remaining tabs to help remove some of the stress bringing the bow up. Additionally i shaved the front peg down a bit and removed all the tabs from the top port side. Starboard side seems perfect, port side is still a bit curved but I think the clamp and glue final assembly will take care of that.
I noticed when i assemble the entire thing with the white light blocking interior parts the curve comes back a bit more. not sure if I will just sand away more or do the lighting without the interior parts and go the fiber route.


IMG_20190911_202924.jpg
IMG_20190911_203026.jpg
IMG_20190911_203040.jpg
IMG_20190911_203221.jpg
IMG_20190911_203242.jpg
IMG_20190911_203323.jpg
IMG_20190911_203329.jpg
 

tycoon

New Member
So the clear trench are used to re-create the light circled in Rogue One? Though its not so obvious in ROTJ.

The clear parts make it easier to give a light effect for an area with a spotlight on it?

A technique I believe called

essentially you put the LED on the inside right against the area, sand a bit of you light blocking away and the LED makes the plastic shine like there is a spotlight on it.

This is not my pic, but it gives the idea

View attachment 1056163
 

Attachments

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top