ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
- Thread starter deadbolt
- Start date
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
Looks like I'm going to have to travel around quite a bit in Toronto to find a place that parkerizes or 'phosphates', as I've been told to refer to it.
I found a place but it could be quite a trek to get out there.
How many people are having their Steel Flash Hiders Black/ox or unfinished?
Anyone?
Looks like I'm going to have to travel around quite a bit in Toronto to find a place that parkerizes or 'phosphates', as I've been told to refer to it.
I found a place but it could be quite a trek to get out there.
How many people are having their Steel Flash Hiders Black/ox or unfinished?
Anyone?
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
just remember that the phosphate will be a "flat dark gray"
http://sgcusa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image
You could get the same effect from gray paint.
We will be trying to match the FH screen color with anodizing.
just remember that the phosphate will be a "flat dark gray"
http://sgcusa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image
You could get the same effect from gray paint.
We will be trying to match the FH screen color with anodizing.
deadbolt
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
The only finish we were able to offer for the Steel flash hiders is black oxide for a protective coating, but that can be weathered or removed easily enough for refinishing. :thumbsup
It's tough to tell what finish the original FH is, but I agree parkerizing could probably pull off a much more correct look. I wonder if there's any chemical steel finishes out there that add corrosion resistance without blackening the steel?
-Carson
The only finish we were able to offer for the Steel flash hiders is black oxide for a protective coating, but that can be weathered or removed easily enough for refinishing. :thumbsup
It's tough to tell what finish the original FH is, but I agree parkerizing could probably pull off a much more correct look. I wonder if there's any chemical steel finishes out there that add corrosion resistance without blackening the steel?
-Carson
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
For the steel, to me the promo pics look almost like just a lighter blueing.
I tried a cold blue on my steel FH and it looked good to me. Very natural. You can scuff it up and rub off as much as you want to bring up the steel underneath.
pic is color corrected for the flesh tones so FH color should be very close.
For the steel, to me the promo pics look almost like just a lighter blueing.
I tried a cold blue on my steel FH and it looked good to me. Very natural. You can scuff it up and rub off as much as you want to bring up the steel underneath.
pic is color corrected for the flesh tones so FH color should be very close.
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
Cool work Clutch!
If you have a half-round or round file one other thing you could do to refine the trigger a bit is file along the curve of the front edge of the trigger to round it off a bit. (don't know if that makes sense?) When I built my Denix based Mauser years ago I did something similar:
Dave
Cool work Clutch!
If you have a half-round or round file one other thing you could do to refine the trigger a bit is file along the curve of the front edge of the trigger to round it off a bit. (don't know if that makes sense?) When I built my Denix based Mauser years ago I did something similar:
Dave
jheilman
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
Handled some real Mausers at a local gun show last weekend. All out of my price range, but I was picking out specific things to modify on the Denix. The trigger is a big one. Would also love to scribe the clip seam on the bottom of the magazine well. Would be great to also drill and bevel the hole in it and install a ball bearing from the inside to mimic the release catch. I have no experience at scribing, but am willing to learn.
Handled some real Mausers at a local gun show last weekend. All out of my price range, but I was picking out specific things to modify on the Denix. The trigger is a big one. Would also love to scribe the clip seam on the bottom of the magazine well. Would be great to also drill and bevel the hole in it and install a ball bearing from the inside to mimic the release catch. I have no experience at scribing, but am willing to learn.
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
They are made parkerized. Look grey with a greenish tinge.
Not sure if it was left that way in the production. Are there any CU shots of the blaster in color?
They are made parkerized. Look grey with a greenish tinge.
Not sure if it was left that way in the production. Are there any CU shots of the blaster in color?
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
I did all that and more on my Denix. It is very soft material and not hard to do.
The bottom mag spring release on the bottom (beveled hole and ball) can be done by locating the hole area, drill a small hole, use a countersink drill bit to bevel the hole and spin small screw or nail with a head big enough to shape like a button.
You can chuck it in a drill and use it like a Lathe and using a flat file, shape the head round.
BE CAREFUL, use eye protection whenever using the drill, Dremel etc. and make sure the file does not bounce bake at you! Let it turn S L O W L Y.
You will need to get or make some scribes. The best material is an old (new/cheap) file.
You can use a small hand files or Riffle like below.
Using a grinder or dremel with a sanding drum or stone, you can grind the tip to a small V or shape, (the shape should be the size and shape of the groove you want to cut)
You should also try to get a pair of metal dividers like these:
Vintage STARRETT Small Divider Spring Caliper USA Machinist Tool Toolmaker | eBay
.
Riffler File Set
The dividers are great as you can use them to get the straight parallel lines scribed along the edge of the bottom of the mag well by opening the divider to the proper amount to get the space you want, and dragging one point of the dividers along the outer edge of the frame and letting the other point scribe a line.
You can either continue this to make it deeper or if you need a deeper/wider groove (to allow for paint etc. use the scribe you made from the file.
You may also need a metal ruler or other straight thin material to use as a template.
You can hold "tightly" in place OR clamp/temp glue (krazy) and scribe as needed.
You can also use the thin knife files/riffles to accentuate the lines and do the curves.
You can use the Dividers as a compass as well and even locate and scribe the Mystery Disk and any other curves.
Since the frame is soft metal the material is scratched and scribed easily. Any unwanted lines can be sanded or filled.
I did all that and more on my Denix. It is very soft material and not hard to do.
The bottom mag spring release on the bottom (beveled hole and ball) can be done by locating the hole area, drill a small hole, use a countersink drill bit to bevel the hole and spin small screw or nail with a head big enough to shape like a button.
You can chuck it in a drill and use it like a Lathe and using a flat file, shape the head round.
BE CAREFUL, use eye protection whenever using the drill, Dremel etc. and make sure the file does not bounce bake at you! Let it turn S L O W L Y.
You will need to get or make some scribes. The best material is an old (new/cheap) file.
You can use a small hand files or Riffle like below.
Using a grinder or dremel with a sanding drum or stone, you can grind the tip to a small V or shape, (the shape should be the size and shape of the groove you want to cut)
You should also try to get a pair of metal dividers like these:
Vintage STARRETT Small Divider Spring Caliper USA Machinist Tool Toolmaker | eBay
.
Riffler File Set
The dividers are great as you can use them to get the straight parallel lines scribed along the edge of the bottom of the mag well by opening the divider to the proper amount to get the space you want, and dragging one point of the dividers along the outer edge of the frame and letting the other point scribe a line.
You can either continue this to make it deeper or if you need a deeper/wider groove (to allow for paint etc. use the scribe you made from the file.
You may also need a metal ruler or other straight thin material to use as a template.
You can hold "tightly" in place OR clamp/temp glue (krazy) and scribe as needed.
You can also use the thin knife files/riffles to accentuate the lines and do the curves.
You can use the Dividers as a compass as well and even locate and scribe the Mystery Disk and any other curves.
Since the frame is soft metal the material is scratched and scribed easily. Any unwanted lines can be sanded or filled.
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