Limited Run Anakin Starkiller Luke ROTJ Hero Lightsaber Sign up List (Signup closed. Production has begun)

By the way, Starkiller mentions in the video that the brass rails are painted. I’m not sure I’ve seen this discussed, before, but I haven’t done extensive research on the hero. The ISYHCANL shot looks to possibly have exposed brass rails. However, the touring photos and whatnot show copper-y rails. Are we saying the rails were possibly brass painted a copper color?
 
By the way, Starkiller mentions in the video that the brass rails are painted. I’m not sure I’ve seen this discussed, before, but I haven’t done extensive research on the hero. The ISYHCANL shot looks to possibly have exposed brass rails. However, the touring photos and whatnot show copper-y rails. Are we saying the rails were possibly brass painted a copper color?

i suppose that is possible. BRRogers just recently posted a bunch of lighting shifts in the research thread that suggest the ISYHCANL appears brass due to lighting and reproduces the color using copper rails. The redness is definitely there in the cave MoM but given the Yuma was a modified box it is possible it went from brass L stock to copper. Or it was painted.

One thing that has always bothered me about the MoM prop is that the copper never seems to "green" oxidize as copper does. Whereas the traces on the card DO. So that suggests there is a coating of some kind on the rails to create an air barrier and stop any oxidation.

i think honestly the rails being brass vs copper is something the jury is still out on. It definitely APPEARS brass in the ISYHCANL and barge scenes and APPEARS copper in exhibits. What ACTUAL material it is can have its appearance modified so I don't think anyone can definitively say.
 
I wonder...could the rails have been brass, then aged/browned deliberately, or perhaps just with time? The color doesn’t look that far off from tarnished brass.
 
I wonder...could the rails have been brass, then aged/browned deliberately, or perhaps just with time? The color doesn’t look that far off from tarnished brass.

aged brass typically takes on a brown appearance but rarely turns RED... copper of course has a red hue. Incidentally bronze also takes on some interesting hues when it ages.

it definitely COULD be brass in the Yuma and ISYHCANL versions. I DO believe the MoM exhibit hero is copper rails. Aged brass just won't look that red without a paint.

Occam's razor tells me that the exhibit prop is copper with a wax coating or clear coat to prevent oxidation.

the ISYHCANL I would have until recently sworn was brass but BRRogers brought that into question for me and raised reasonable doubt. The Yuma I believe is brass L-stock and have seen nothing to disprove that or raise question to it.

so my personal theory? Yuma: brass. ISYHCANL: modified box and either kept the brass or moved to copper... Cave: copper
 
Copper tape IMO would fit the bill. It
Is easy to apply, and would match the vintage card handily after being lightly burnished and aged.

granted, I haven’t seen the prop up close/ in person
:<
 
aged brass typically takes on a brown appearance but rarely turns RED... copper of course has a red hue. Incidentally bronze also takes on some interesting hues when it ages.

it definitely COULD be brass in the Yuma and ISYHCANL versions. I DO believe the MoM exhibit hero is copper rails. Aged brass just won't look that red without a paint.

Occam's razor tells me that the exhibit prop is copper with a wax coating or clear coat to prevent oxidation.

the ISYHCANL I would have until recently sworn was brass but BRRogers brought that into question for me and raised reasonable doubt. The Yuma I believe is brass L-stock and have seen nothing to disprove that or raise question to it.

so my personal theory? Yuma: brass. ISYHCANL: modified box and either kept the brass or moved to copper... Cave: copper


There were no rails on the Yuma control box. It was all aluminum with two screws.
 
Just got my kit, thanks Dan! It's amazing. I'm one of the ones that will need he arrow plates screws fyi.

Regarding the rails, heres a closeup, it really just looks like ages brass to me. Copper tape would have lifted on the edges by now.

Rare-LFL-Lukjkcasfilm-Archives-Movie-Prop-Lost-Photos-Star-Wars-Indiana-Jones-Historic-Visit-O...jpg


Also heres another archive photo of the bottom. I dont really see the raised ring around the hole, but eh... its easy to remove if needed.

Rare-LFL-Lucasfilm-Archives-Movie-Prop-Lost-Photos-Star-Wars-Indiana-Jones-Historic-Visit-Orig...jpg
 
Kylash: in that pommel photo you can see the faint ring. However I do agree it does not have the appearance of a raised surface texture. Again, I think it is a chuck slip marring / scratch.

this is just one of those areas that Anakin Starkiller and we happen to interpret what we see differently.
 
Picked up some Ace antique gold, this afternoon. And I gave the grenade section a shot of black.

After I cut the brass rails to side, I think I’ll take the leftover piece and expose it to some ammonia fumes to darken it and see how it looks. Alternatively, perhaps I’ll give it a shot of antique gold paint.
 
Agreed on the ammonia, thats always worked well for me, even just doing it overnight will give you a good darkening. A little scotchbrite to lighten it up a bit and good to go.
 
Having now applied the antique gold (which is PERFECT) to the neck, I think there’s a very good chance that the rails are brass, but painted with the same color. Tarnished brass is a little too brown, and not quite red enough, I think. The paint strikes that balance Of gold-red-yellow in different lighting. We’ll see.
 
amazed by the build quality, this is a saber I've wanted for a long time, is any one going to be doing a guide to fitting with electronics?
 
I recall talk of someone making a contained module for the control box at least for the linking LEDs...
 
I gotta say I’m a bit lost on this explanation?

Here is the control box minus the plastic "canoe" mounted on the hilt:

IMG_2748.jpeg


Then I lightly tightened the arrow plate screws, allowing the plate to slide up a bit:

IMG_2749.jpeg


Then I tightened the screws to almost tight, as you can see the top of the arrow plate will bow out a bit:

IMG_2750.jpeg


Then I took the whole assembly off the hilt and snapped the "canoe" in place, which brings the top of the arrow plate back in:

IMG_2751.jpeg


Then I mounted the whole assembly back on the hilt and lightly tightened the arrow plate screws. It will sit pretty flush with just a tiny gap at the front of the control box. I'm sure I overcomplicated it, but it worked for me this way.

IMG_2752.jpeg


IMG_2753.jpeg
 
WOO-HOO!!! My kit has arrived!!! :love: (y)
I, likewise, will also need the arrow plate screws.
As always though, this is a magnificent prop replica you've created! & I'm thrilled I was able to be a part of this run!!!
 
I’ve come up with a solution to the activation and aux switch using the screw and slide switch.
Just waiting for KR sabers to deliver the switches

by any chance anyone here know where I can get switches here in the US like we use for the slide switch on the graflex?
 
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