Unlimited Run Aluminum vibro axe blade

[Ryan Clinton]

Yes there are a few. Ive been dealing with an injury that happened on the 20th. Been in bed for a week. I have 3 crushed disks in my lower back. I haven't been able to walk until about 3 days ago. Since I have been unable to work on the blades I did some work on my own vibro axes. I filled the entire hairdryer with resin as well as the hose soaker.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

I'm experimenting with this rubber splicing tape I got from work to give the wire portion of the prop the effect the screen used one has

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Ryan Clinton]

Any updates Ryan?

Still can't get that Yamaha xs1100lg piece. Its the only thing I don't have. Tamiya is closed because of the pandemic. So frustrating.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

I'm sort of upset with myself for not paying more attention to the position of the amphenol connector. I didn't position it like the screen used prop. Its not the end of the world but it is glued in place so its too late to change.

 

[Trooper_trent]

Excellent work all around. It looks amazing. Did you use rod or tubing for the curve wire part? Mind posting a part number?
I modeled up all the other greeblies like the amphenol tube, a more accurate cross head piece, the Vader rod and the part that connects to the tube. I’d like an accurate aluminum rod eventually but that can easily be upgraded later.

Your connector is fine man. You’re talking about a couple of millimeters on a roughly 6 foot prop.

 

[Trooper_trent]

View attachment 1342698

What kind of wire are you using there? Some pics looks like it's a double strand and some look like maybe it's triple strand.

 

[Jamesfett]

Awesome!!!!!!!!!!

Where did you get the Vader type bar?

Thanks

 

[Ryan Clinton]

For the piping coming out of the amphenol connector I used 5mm aluminum rod. Steel rod is too hard to bend plus the aluminum rod is the correct color. There's 3/4 inch of the rod inside the pole and 2 inches inside the amphenol connector tube. I wanted it to be very rigid with no play. I highly recommend filling your axe pole with a 3/4inch wood dowel. It really makes installing the piping and everything else rigid and solid. I filled the end of the pole with polyurethane casting resin so it looks like a solid pole. The vader rod I looked everywhere for an aluminum one, no one makes one with 2 mounting tabs so i bought a resin one from shapeways and painted it. The aluminum rod on the hero axe looks slightly thicker than the vader rods. Ill have one made and replaced it. For the wire wraps I used 12awg 2/c underground low volt wire. It definitely is a double cord in the middle wrap which i haven't done yet. The top wrap and bottom are a single strand and then wrapped in some kind of tape. Electrical tape after time gets greasy and brittle so I'm using the rubber insulation tape that I posted.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

You can see here the vader rod on the hero axe is slightly thicker than a regular vader rod. The ends with the mounting tabs are different lengths also.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

 

[Trooper_trent]

awesome. I just put my test print of the "vader rod" and other greeblies in the UV cure lamp.
While similar to the ones used on Vader's chest box, yes it's quite a bit thicker and has different details. I used zorg's diagram as a rough template for the dimensions and scaled it to screenshots for verification and tweaking. It'll do for now.
(It's split and keyed with a square peg so it would fit on my printer)

Thanks for the info on the rod. I wasn't sure whether I wanted to use rod or tubing. The real one appears to be tubing as it is kinked in the corners.
But I think rod looks better.

 

[Ryan Clinton]

As far as the amphenol connector i was talking about the position of the connector pieces being lined up. Not a big deal i just wish I had done it properly