Tom's Real Parts Obi Wan Saber

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Huh..that is a completely different kind of screw hole than mine. There are different models of sink knob!
 

Edraven99

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you! The thing in the bearing is a nut with two different threads on each end. It's called a "reducer" here in the US. I wish I could say that I made them myself but I bought a bag from China...I now have a good handful I don't need:D


View attachment 563073

3/8 16 on one side (Roman Emitter threading) and 1/4 20 on the other (good size for real sink knob hold)

Hey Tom... just sent you a PM regarding :)
 

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thd9791

Master Member
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Haha yea, we didn't know these existed and redbutton here suggested threaded adapters and we went searching for them. Took three days.

- - - Updated - - -

There are the modern ones from the 1980s

Correct ones with flat endcap

Correct with yellow cubes and flat endcap

Correct with yellow cubes and domed black/silver endcap (mine!) that also have a raised, small screw hole

right?

 

Sym-Cha

Master Member
I don't know about the last one you mentioned ... if that is considered another version (any picture?) ... however there is a distinct version between a correct handwheel with straight written text under the 'C' or 'H' and Armitage Shanks written in an arc over the 'C' or 'H' which is also a metal endcap, not plastic. Than there is indeed the modern 1980's version and the one with yellow/golden translucent cubes = 4

Chaim
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
There is also this, which has a flat upper portion, but size-wise is correct. End cap had a hole through it and an advhesive-backed plastic disc to go over top.
image.jpeg
image.jpeg
 

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Sym-Cha

Master Member
:facepalm ... now I would understand if they used that 5th variation for an OB1 Tunesia saber and loose the endcap altogether ... so I stand corrected ... there's 5 :wacko Any more versions I'm not aware of?

Chaim
 

Edraven99

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Bathtub tap... where everything is correct, but the square hole is bigger in the metal piece and which also has deeper threads so that it isn't possible to flip the cubes...

...which is a variant that I have with one of my tap handles....
 

mugatu

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Bathtub tap... where everything is correct, but the square hole is bigger in the metal piece and which also has deeper threads so that it isn't possible to flip the cubes...

...which is a variant that I have with one of my tap handles....

The metal threaded section is also too deep on my bidet wheel. The cubed ring from that pictured wheel is interchangeable with the correct AS wheels too.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
DSCN3227.jpg DSCN3226.JPG
Modern one next to the one I used. Correct size, weird end cap and the screw hole is raised underneath the cap.
DSCN3382.jpg
Re-chromed yellow one next to real booster
 
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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It turns out I don't have to cut my threaded rod down. It wasn't screwed all the way into the Reducer nut. The allen bolt was screwed too far in, pushing the rod out. I fixed this by removing the emitter and grenade and unscrewing the pommel....

DSCN3398.jpg DSCN3396.jpg

Then I screwed the threaded rod all the way in, and put it back together, leaving the right amount of threads (4 or 5) above the grenade neck.
So..get the rod down tight first before anything else!

DSCN3395.jpg DSCN3390.jpg DSCN3400.jpg
 

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thd9791

Master Member
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Thats hilarious and kind halliwax

I swear it's a never ending story with this thing. The clamps position was bothering me, it was too high.
Screen Shot 2015-12-13 at 5.49.32 PM.png

What I needed was extra meat on the spacer. The space between the rings just goes inside, it doesn't brace against the rim.
Cutting at the first ring would have been too high, pushing the grenade out of the graflex clamp area.
DSCN3403.jpg
So I needed....half that height?

I decided to use the firing cap or back plate on my grenade. First, I had to smooth out the sides of the firing cap to fit inside the Flash Hider. The flash hider is steel and this iss brass, which is much softer. Didn't take much, 20 minutes of filing and a very small pile of brass dust.

DSCN3410.jpg DSCN3409.jpg DSCN3408.jpg DSCN3405.jpg

Now, the Grenade can sit slightly sunken into the Graflex clamp. There's still a gap...
DSCN3412.jpg

But screwed together, I think it looks much better.

DSCN3411.jpg (click for larger size)
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My dad and I also came up with a solution to my corroded Grenade being a tad too skinny.

I cut a piece of 1.5 inch sink pipe about 1/4 or 1/2 inch...the distance between the top edge of the clamp and the first hole in the side. Slid it right over the end of my grenade, and it's tighter than ever.
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So, here's where I stand today.
The Grenade rim sleeve.
DSCN3423.jpg
It's just regular old sink pipe, and it only extends to the first cut out. Very, very rock solid now.
Of which, I'll have to either cut down the screws I used for Roman's transistors/spacer and put a nut in there, or just glue them on. Not sure yet. Any ideas guys?
DSCN3428.jpg

I installed a Left-over D ring from Blast Tech. It was a bit smaller than Roy's, and I mean a hair smaller, but it suffices :) (Thank you @RomansEmpire for the D ring installation tips)
DSCN3418.JPG DSCN3417.jpg
Notice, I used cheap painters tape to keep the clear coat off the pommel and it took up a few pieces of new chrome! Grr, be careful guys)

I'm thinking I may hit the emitter and cone with some clear coat too...The emitter's gotten darker over the years and now there's rust forming on the cone?!
DSCN3424.JPG
Anyways, here it is before the transistors!
DSCN3416.jpg
 

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