AHA! My grenade bottom doesn't have a hole through it, but this just cleared up a LOT for me. Thanks man
Tom's Real Parts Obi Wan Saber
- Thread starter thd9791
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AHA! My grenade bottom doesn't have a hole through it, but this just cleared up a LOT for me. Thanks man
Yep... It does, they all do. The detonator cap (the thumb screwish looking part) screws off.
currently trying to wrench this apart. Cutting a large flat head didn't work, soaking in wd40....can't tell you how much I feel like Karl
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Yep - sorry about that, here are pictures. I resorted to drilling the detonator cap and discovered it comes in two pieces...the countersunk screw and the rim. I accidentally hammered and drilled out my countersunk screw, leaving roughly 3/8 16 threading just like the neck! I even tried dremelling the cap off with a cutting disc to no avail. I'm okay with it there - it means the simplistic option is to continue the large rod through and make the joint within the clamp
- - - Updated - - -
Some grenade pictures
- - - Updated - - -
Some grenade pictures
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http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=225882&page=7&highlight=prop+projects
Post 172...
Leverage! patience and leverage.
oh, BELIEVE ME I was hammering this and using 2-3 pliers at a time to wrench this thing apart. For days. i admit, after that, realizing it wasn't budging I went to drastic measures. :lol
The booster came today! All I can say is....wow. it's smaller than i expected, being part of a machine gun, but exactly the right size for a lightsaber part. I'll let the pics speak for themselves....
The patina is so amazing.
The inside of the FH is one long receding cone, that gets thicker, up until the bearing section. The other end is also a cone shape, reducing to the bearing. V. A. C. ?
There is so much oil on this, I doubt it was ever issued. The weld section has been dremeled away with a cutting disc. It was dropped a few times and has some good dents in the ring section, but this is in amazing condition. I see the little holes too, between the fins.
The chrome on the inside is a surprising and nice touch, I hadn't noticed that before.
The hex nut is a reducer from 3/8 16 to 1/4 20 and I'm going to throw it somewhere inside the saber to connect the pommel's threading to the emitter's threading.
The patina is so amazing.
The inside of the FH is one long receding cone, that gets thicker, up until the bearing section. The other end is also a cone shape, reducing to the bearing. V. A. C. ?
There is so much oil on this, I doubt it was ever issued. The weld section has been dremeled away with a cutting disc. It was dropped a few times and has some good dents in the ring section, but this is in amazing condition. I see the little holes too, between the fins.
The chrome on the inside is a surprising and nice touch, I hadn't noticed that before.
The hex nut is a reducer from 3/8 16 to 1/4 20 and I'm going to throw it somewhere inside the saber to connect the pommel's threading to the emitter's threading.
I'm looking at this in the most practical, quick-solution, the actor needs the prop NOW, mindset and I can't ignore the fact the rings are the EXACT length of the clamp.
Literally, the slope of the last ring is in line with the top of the clamp.
Nuts and bolts over glue is my motto, and right now I'm wishy washy over using some large washers/lamp parts inside the clamp or taking the cone down to the second ring and pushing it up against the grenade. That would fit so perfectly, and be such a short solution, I can't forget it.
Also, the hole in the bearing is less than 2 mm smaller than the 3/8 16 threaded rod. The 1/4 20 bolt rattles in the bearing, it's way too small. There's so much steel in my hand, I wouldn't mind opening up the hole a hair, then I can bolt everything above the booster together, and screw the booster/pommel on.
Literally, the slope of the last ring is in line with the top of the clamp.
Nuts and bolts over glue is my motto, and right now I'm wishy washy over using some large washers/lamp parts inside the clamp or taking the cone down to the second ring and pushing it up against the grenade. That would fit so perfectly, and be such a short solution, I can't forget it.
Also, the hole in the bearing is less than 2 mm smaller than the 3/8 16 threaded rod. The 1/4 20 bolt rattles in the bearing, it's way too small. There's so much steel in my hand, I wouldn't mind opening up the hole a hair, then I can bolt everything above the booster together, and screw the booster/pommel on.
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I have two words for the RPF: IT WORKED!
I'll have to take real pictures soon, everyone was correct about the flash hider. It fits snugly inside the grenade, is the correct length and actually makes for a sturdier saber.
I had to hollow out the flash hider a little, I decided to move the joint to the booster/pommel area.
The graflex clamp is a little loose; my grenade is a little small. I was going to put an O ring in there or something. I have yet to situate the transistors, but they'll sit between the rings. This is absolutely insane.
I'll have to take real pictures soon, everyone was correct about the flash hider. It fits snugly inside the grenade, is the correct length and actually makes for a sturdier saber.
I had to hollow out the flash hider a little, I decided to move the joint to the booster/pommel area.
The graflex clamp is a little loose; my grenade is a little small. I was going to put an O ring in there or something. I have yet to situate the transistors, but they'll sit between the rings. This is absolutely insane.
Here is how it went!
1) I first hollowed out the bearing/cone. It was nearly the same size as the 3/8 16 standard rod, just a bit smaller.
My girlfriend was so excited to see this build happen, she came over and actually did most of the filing work.
After the rod could slide through, I did the unthinkable. I took a hack saw to the flash hider.
to measure, I put the graflex clamp on the cone, screwed the booster on and lowered the clamp snugly to the booster.
I swiped a paint pen along the rim of the clamp. This painted a clean line right on the rim of the first ring.
after that I measured the bottom ridge of the grenade, did the same on the cone, and marked the kill spot
In my pictures you'll see the cone after I chopped it, while cutting, and the view from the inside while cutting.
2) To measure where I cut the rod and bolt, I screwed them together and laid them next to all the lightsaber parts put together.
1) I first hollowed out the bearing/cone. It was nearly the same size as the 3/8 16 standard rod, just a bit smaller.
My girlfriend was so excited to see this build happen, she came over and actually did most of the filing work.
After the rod could slide through, I did the unthinkable. I took a hack saw to the flash hider.
to measure, I put the graflex clamp on the cone, screwed the booster on and lowered the clamp snugly to the booster.
I swiped a paint pen along the rim of the clamp. This painted a clean line right on the rim of the first ring.
after that I measured the bottom ridge of the grenade, did the same on the cone, and marked the kill spot
In my pictures you'll see the cone after I chopped it, while cutting, and the view from the inside while cutting.
2) To measure where I cut the rod and bolt, I screwed them together and laid them next to all the lightsaber parts put together.
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It was a bitch. I did use a mitre box and a hacksaw, dremel wasn't touching this metal.
(Fun fact, the cone makes a clear beautiful note when struck, exactly like a bell) .
anyway....the cone is hard metal, thicker than I thought, It was a bit tricky cutting the same line all the way around, but there are metal files that correct that mistake.
It turns out, the exposed ring matches the profile of the grenades' inner step, and the space between the rings matches the grenades inner wall.
It slides right in place.
Ignore the corrosion, but Mugatu's repair shows the inner step at the bottom of a grenade.
You can see in the attached photos, I played with different brass screws. The reducing nut I used has a set length inside. The threaded rod is one length and the bolt is another - together they equal the length of the saber.
A Johni Bolt is used for toilets, the cabinet screw I had was too long, and the little allen head in the last photo was just short enough.
(Fun fact, the cone makes a clear beautiful note when struck, exactly like a bell) .
anyway....the cone is hard metal, thicker than I thought, It was a bit tricky cutting the same line all the way around, but there are metal files that correct that mistake.
It turns out, the exposed ring matches the profile of the grenades' inner step, and the space between the rings matches the grenades inner wall.
It slides right in place.
Ignore the corrosion, but Mugatu's repair shows the inner step at the bottom of a grenade.
You can see in the attached photos, I played with different brass screws. The reducing nut I used has a set length inside. The threaded rod is one length and the bolt is another - together they equal the length of the saber.
A Johni Bolt is used for toilets, the cabinet screw I had was too long, and the little allen head in the last photo was just short enough.
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