Tom's Real Parts Obi Wan Saber

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by thd9791, May 20, 2015.

  1. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm halfway there! I got that grenade today! It's in pretty rough shape, the neck is actually bent slightly, and it's the whole brass piece so I don't think I can correct that. The body, too, has enough corrosion up top that I worry it will just flake off?

    the brass and pineapple portions are in great shape though, even though the rod is like welded to its base. I may drill or tap out the weld (not screws) that holds the pin in place inside (which is also in great shape)

    the he inside is covered in a solid rust color, should I be worried about that, will it eat through?

    This is is so cool!
     

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  2. NeoRutty

    NeoRutty Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Welcome to the club!
     
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  3. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom, on the one I got, I didn't know that the piece holding the detonator pin in were screws either. A hundred years of corrosion will do that to screw heads. It's possible they were replaced, but my grenade's screws also looked like welds. Now I'm not saying to do what I did, but I took that long metal stake with the brass part on the end, and put it into the brass shaft against the flat backside of the detonator pin. Then I hammered and hammered on it. Eventually the screws did pop out of the sides. Again, I do not recommend just banging away on it as I warped my bottom brass disc by doing so. I am certain you will think of something wiser to do to overcome this.

    As far as the brown, do you mean inside the frag body? Mine is like that too. I don't think it will spread anymore than it has over this long time, but again, I'm newer to this than most people here are.
     
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  4. teecrooz

    teecrooz Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Glad someone here picked this up! The "screws" are actually pins that had rounded heads. When the windvane spun off, the pins would eject, and a spring would pull the detonator pin toward the explosives. They should pop out, just be careful not to bend the brass neck.

    What part are you looking for next?
     
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  5. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks everyone! For all the info too, I'm drinking this up.

    does anyone else have corroded threads up top? I had this crazy idea of swiping some apoxie sculpt (and painting it) to reinforce the rim...is that blasphemy? Lol the fan blades have a part that's "ripped" open too, and I could do the same thing

    and yea, I might try taking off some rust on the inside and outside and sealing it with wd 40 or a clear coat

    I'll update you guys on the firing pin lol I tried hammering it for 15 min too and stopped.

    The last two parts (my clamp, transistors, bubbles and knob are all real) ...either a booster or a balance pipe. The sink knob....isn't a priority. I have a vintage kind, and I'm happy with that. I need to actually get one off a sink out of the trash, I can't pay hundreds of dollars for one and sleep at night haha, militaria is different in my eyes.
     
  6. teecrooz

    teecrooz Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well you have a great balance pipe replica, so do t worry about a real one anytime soon. Yours is from one of the original runs when it was discovered what they were, and then finished by boba debt. There hasn't been a run that was finished in that way since (that I know of). I wish I had one.
     
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  7. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Look how far you've come!
     
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  8. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I had no idea it was that special! Almost like the current V2 run, I take it. :) thanks for the kind words, and thanks to Kurtyboy for selling it to me haha

    Since I have an extra grenade now, I may just buy up replica parts over time and make a second replica saber.

    I've got some fan sleeves coming this week from Roman's older runs..still hasn't sunk in
     
  9. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    very nice find tom!!
     
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  10. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have hit a snag. Since the neck is crooked...with a threaded rod in, the grenade is also sticking out at an angle. I tried to force it into a graflex clamp and almost warped the clamp. So! I wonder if there is a way to straighten out this neck...or flatten out the threaded plate that goes into the grenade body...


    Edit - looking at the parts I have, Roman's weathered neck is the same black/brown as the real grenade body. They look wonderful together, and I fitted the bent neck on my brown Roman's grenade body....the brass looks nice with it, I may buy a new neck from Roman and keep the original for archives sake, I can't use it. pics to come
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2015
  11. NeoRutty

    NeoRutty Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Was going to say to try heating and bending... but if that works for yah!

    Brass is a bit softer metal... so I would assume you COULD straighten it somehow...
     
  12. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I may still try that for kicks - I forgot to mention, I took a drill press and a #22 or 19 drill bit to those screws, drilled them right out! The firing pin fell out like a loose chicken egg immediately after.
     
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  13. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here are some pics folks. (I picked up some horrible tonsil thing and have been completely non functional - I'm a bit better today so I thought I'd take some pics of what I have and where I can go! Some pics show the corrosion on the top rim. It's so thin I can see the threaded neck portion and it could easily flake off. I'd like to do something about that.

    DSCN3105.JPG DSCN3106.JPG DSCN3111.JPG

    There are rust spots, only a few, and I can just buff those off with a wire brush/steel wool and then seal this thing.. What is this blackish coating on the grenade? That can't be the color of the steel, it's too nice

    DSCN3101.JPG DSCN3103.JPG
    As you can see, even after my decent drilling job, that original neck is still too crooked to use on a threaded rod. :( I do have the fan portion, though it doesn't quite fit into the wind vane sleeves I have here (Thank you Roman!) -not pictured: I "rubber mallet" hammered this fan into a windvane sleeve. it fits.. it warped the sleeve to fit the ancient fan blades, but it's in there and it's still roughly circular...haha..the fan blades were unaffected, surprisingly-

    My graflex clamp is a bit loose, I think that's because the grenade is smaller in diameter. I could just wrap something around the bottom there..what have other folks used?

    DSCN3118.JPG

    That being said, I was amazed at two things
    1) the weathering job Roman did on the replica neck is incredibly similar to the patina on this real grenade

    2) everything really does screw together. All the replica parts and real parts are perfectly interchangeable, this is an incredible community able to produce these things.

    DSCN3116.JPG DSCN3115.JPG

    I'd like to use as many real parts as possible - but this roman neck and real grenade body works for me! (As long as I can stabilize the grenade a bit) I may look for a more accurate sink knob that doesn't break the bank.... MAYBE a booster, but this powdery one I have from Roman is pretty awesome...

    Oh yea, is this rod thing supposed to come off? Mine is near welded on
    DSCN3113.JPG DSCN3114.JPG
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2015
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  14. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Tom,

    The Graflex clamp I used was only secured by tightening the clamp lever pin/screw, plus I have one of Roman's clamp spacers that goes underneath. So the clamp is secure to the clamp spacer. My grenade is also wobbly against the clamp spacer due to corrosion at that end of my frag body. Once I screwed everything together, my securing ring (I really don't know what the real world name of this nut-type of device is) kept everything taught enough that there was no wobble anymore.

    That brass piece on the end of the rod is welded (or seems welded/unremovable) on mine too.
     
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  15. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay, so I DID begin to reinforce my grenade. I just had to, I will be handling this and I don't want anything to break off.

    this is what I started with. I decided to go with JB Weld over Apoxie sculpt, bondo or glue, for a number of reasons. The color of finished JB Weld is much closer to this grenade, and the stuff is actually made-up of dissolved steel. They call it cold weld for a reason, so it should mesh with my steel grenade rather well.

    I also decided to not apply it directly to the inside or outside without the neck being screwed in. This allows the weld to form to the shape of the threading. (Quick Weld cures in roughly 4 min, around 3 min it's very gummy and I will be able to twist the neck off and on to reiterate the thread shape without welding the neck to the grenade)
     

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2015
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  16. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here it goes. Just like epoxy, it comes in a quick steel tube and a hardener tube. I mixed them together with a toothpick, which served two purposes. It's cheap and disposable, but it also lets me do minute spot work, as opposed to a putty knife.

    It mixes like thick frosting, so I began applying it to the rim. To avoid the frosting ribbons that come when you pull away, I pulled along the rim when I was done applying a spot! this allowed the ribbon to lay along the curve of the rim instead of poking up. It helped move me along too, applying the excess to the next spot I was going to do. (I forgot to clean the area, but oh well. it's not going anywhere thankfully)

    Once it was gummy I unscrewed the neck back and forth and rolled the toothpick along the side of the rim, at roughly the same angle, to push the weld up higher than the grenade rim. I'll be able to sand all of this down once it cures.
     

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  17. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Here are a couple curing shots. I plan on sanding and maybe painting those areas. I have to sand off a few rust spots too - does anyone know what the finish is on these grenades? is there a color I can match, or a material I can apply?

    I'll finish off with a Krylon flat clear coat.
     

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  18. propmainiac

    propmainiac Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow there still out there huh? I'd love to get my hands on one of those! Nice job so far.
     
  19. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks man! Yes they are, but very few. mugatu That would be a T nut! Thank you for all the advice and attention. I hope my restoration here helps you :lol
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  20. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Found out two things guys. 1) when this is sanded down, the inside is very white/light grey. So I want to get this as smooth as possible beforehand

    2) the couple hour cure time is bull****. I accidentally peeled it off, so I re-applied it and I'm leaving it at least overnight
     
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  21. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks for the warning, Tom.
     
  22. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    After re-doing the weld I actually welded the neck to the grenade. oops (technically that's not a big deal) but the weld isn't that noticeable. I took newspaper and dabbed some semi-gloss black paint on the grey weld to camouflage it some more. My grenade is very gray and metallic-y (and lumpy) so this seemed to work.

    I also took a crappy pink grinding cone and attacked some of the rust. in taking it off, it seemed to spread! I think its just the rotary tool throwing rust - I hit it with a damp paper towel and that seemed to help. I dried the grenade over an open flame on my stove to avoid rust forming....left a tiny bit of rust for 2 reasons: weathering and avoiding bare patches of metal that would still look weird. I then hit it with a liberal amount of clear coat (I got excited)

    pics to come!
     
  23. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I got pics of every step but after I stopped removing rust, and then the clear coat drying..
     

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  24. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You are a beast, man! Great job on the rebuild. Again, the patch/rebuild is very intimidating.
    I did pick up a JB Weld liquid steel putty stick for mine. The fluidity of the one you got scared me (I have learned that I don't handle certain material too well heh heh)..I'll let you know how it goes.
    I can only hope the repair I do is in the same ballpark as yours.
     
  25. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Gosh, thanks Andy! yea, I haven't used a stick before and I'm VERY interested in how that pans out. Especially for grenades in good shape, you need a smooth surface if you're going to patch it. I also originally imagined wiping away the excess and just leaving putty in the holes but that's how Apoxie sculpt works. Not JB Weld *sigh*


    I'm watching the clear coat dry. Since it's flat (there was only gloss, flat and satin and gloss usually looks cheap) the grenade isn't as shiny but "gun metal-y"Tthe whole thing looks like one solid relic!
     
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  26. Romans Empire

    Romans Empire Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice save! Good job! :thumbsup

    Is that a real balance pipe?
     
  27. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks!!! As my first real part I was so scared to taint the authenticity. The balance pipe...youre not the first one to ask - this is the first balance pipe replica made after the discovery. Boba Debt weathered them - were you around for that run? I don't know who exactly machined them, maybe serafino? Anyways, other than the real thing, I'm really appreciative kurtyboy sold it to me while I was in college.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Oh and that's one of your weathered necks welded to the * thing - it looks identical to the real thing, just with cleaner machining :lol
     
  28. halliwax

    halliwax Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    tom that patch job was great thinking! you nailed it buddy!
     
  29. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks man! The validation feels so good, I kept using hand sanitizer because I was sweating trying to concentrate..

    here are some beauty shots with a modern handwheel, @RomansEmpire booster, clamp spacer, transistors and grenade neck, A real Graflex clamp, Exactra 20 bubbles, Motorola M series amplifiers, British Hales frag body and that ol' balance pipe replica!
     

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  30. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Okay ... so what did you fix now? :lol ... Superb work Tom!

    Chaim
     
  31. NeoRutty

    NeoRutty Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Looking good! Nice to see it all together.
     
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  32. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    She's a real beaut' Tom.
     
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  33. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Okay ... so I just have to ask ... what's with that Han Solo Hoth Gear figure humping, or so it seems, on the back-end of that dog in your avatar, mugatu? :wacko

    Chaim
     
  34. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chaim,

    I was lucky enough to find a miniature black tauntaun!
    He looks about as happy having Han riding on his back as the tauntaun in the movie did.
     
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  35. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Chaim, that image is having a hard time leaving my head. I will have strange dreams tonight.

    Thanks for the kind words everyone! I haven't put a D ring on because I always seem to be able to keep turning the pommel. I have a metal washer and then a rubber one below the booster to brace against the knob...hmm, like you Andy I just have a bare T nut and no endcap on too. Maybe it's the rubber grommet, I might be slowly crushing it
     
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  36. redbutton

    redbutton Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow, Superb!
     
  37. James Kenobi 1138

    James Kenobi 1138 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Saber looks great ! Most impressive.
     
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  38. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Well, everyone, I now have re-chromed sink knobs and I found a real Browning Flash Hider, booster attached.

    I'm not sure if it has a separate bearing or not, still finalizing the transaction, however this means some structural changes.

    pix920479675.jpg pix998380319.jpg

    I used a brass "cabinet" allen screw to affix the pommel to the booster. Its head is very flat, something I was looking for in case I add a cap, and there's a T nut and washer bracing it inside, facing it. (opposite the direction of the photo)
    008236720617_ca.jpg 51NNa3GmImL._AC_UL320_SR264,320_.jpg

    Now, the question is how do I bolt the booster, clamp and grenade together easiest and cheapest....
     
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  39. NeoRutty

    NeoRutty Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice! Man that's one pain in the * piece to find.
     
  40. Edraven99

    Edraven99 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Congrats! I'll echo El's assessment that that piece is a pain to find...

    P.S. I just used a carriage bolt, a washer, and a nut to connect my handwheel to my booster...
     
  41. Panaflex

    Panaflex Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow, that's an amazing find. I've about given up on ever finding one. Maybe one day...
    Congrats!
     
  42. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thank you everyone! I believe I literally said to my dad a week ago "oh yea, I'm never actually going to find a booster, are you kidding me?" haha, i stand corrected, this was a complete accident. I was looking for custom vintage flash hiders to put on a side-arm blaster I'm working on. I noticed a little listing that said "browning 303 fh" and I was like........uh....and decided to click on it. <br>
    <br>
    Of the correct vintage kind of sink knob - The black dome endcap versions have a taller socket, (a solid cylinder) not the sunken in models that were used on the saber. This means I have much less space for the head of a bolt. <br>
    <br>
    I know of the idea of drilling and tapping T nuts to the central spacer, and I also know of the idea of using an FX spacer, both of which will cost me a bit of dough and some precise drilling without a drill press. Once I get this and see if it has a bearing, I'll weigh my options of bolting this together.
     

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    Last edited: Nov 16, 2015
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  43. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Congrats on the booster, Tom!
     
  44. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Indeed great find ... what are your intentions with that flash-hider? Will it go inside the OB1 clamp or will you still use it for a custom blaster?

    Chaim
     
  45. teecrooz

    teecrooz Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Very nice Tom! Congrats of finding one.
     
  46. Andymac84

    Andymac84 Sr Member

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    Woooow another booster found. Great find man:thumbsup
     
  47. matty matt

    matty matt Sr Member

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  48. Marv

    Marv Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I think it looks one piece similar to the ones I have.
     
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  49. redbutton

    redbutton Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Nice booster find!
     
  50. thd9791

    thd9791 Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If it is, I'm very tempted to use it as a spacer. They're steel right? I bet I can find someone to hack it in half
     

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