Teaser: My new lightsaber "working" blade

[hyperdyne]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Docking Bay 93 @ Apr 18 2006, 03:43 PM) [snapback]1228672[/snapback]</div>

HD, I was also thinking that it might be feasible to make a tube full of something slightly corrosive, such as this acid etch stuff, that you could just dip the poly tubes into, let sit for a minute, pull em out and rinse 'em. If you have shop space, it could work, at least for your prototypes.

Anyway, I'll think on it, and do some research for ya.

-E
[/b]

DB, that is a good idea too. Thanks for looking into it. It would be nice to get a couple protos done to tweak the diffusion layer for sure.


BTW, there is a new thread in the JY. New site is up too...

 

[Machina]

omg...buy buy buy.

 

[Docking Bay 93]

Oh, HD, you know what I'll do...there's a place here in Seattle called TAP Plastics, and they have all KINDS of stuff, and they probably have what I'm looking for. I'll try to get down there next week and talk directly to them. I find that that works better in a pro store.

I don't know if anyone commented on it, but that "motion blur" pic on your website looks a LOT like that teaser pic Lucas sent out for EII, where Dooku and Ani are fighting, and thier blades are a blur.

It looks cooooool. java script:emoticon('B)', 'smid_24')

I really can't wait to see one of these in person. Makes me wish I still had my Graflex, lol.

-E

 

[Docking Bay 93]

While I'm not seeing how it'll do on plastic (it's for cement stripping), this could work:

http://tinyurl.com/k5fag

This one, while I doubt it'd work, is still really interesting. Knife guys take note, and also notice what looks like, for a second, a giant silver One Ring:

http://tinyurl.com/8mpxh

So, this looks like the best stuff for what you're doing. However, it's pretty expensive, at around $15+ for 4oz. Ouch. So, if you're into it, I'd get a bottle, see if it works on plastic (it probably works, but faster, possibly with bubbling, but you'd just have to see), and then see if you can buy it in bigger quantities. It may be more of a project than you're willing to take on right now, though.

http://tinyurl.com/r3tng

I'll look into it more.

-Eddie

 

[Al May]

On the subject of frosting,I work in a industrial plant that manufactures precision titanium for the air craft and medical industries, one of the processes that i use is bore blasting where aluminium oxide grit is fired with compressed air through the inside diameter of various sizes of tubeing,I know that this sounds a little heavy handed to use on various plastic materials but air preasure and grit size can be changed to suit different materials,I know this isnt of much help to you as i live in the u.k,but its just a suggestion for an alternative method.

 

[hyperdyne]

Thanks Al and DB. That is good info nonetheless. I agree having a method to try out different levels of frosting is the way to go. It may take some experimentation to get it right.

DB, Tapp may be able to do this. I have bought stuff from them online, they seem to have a good product line...

 

[Sidewinder]

Simple acetone frosts some plastics, not sure how suitable it may be for this.

SAS

 

[Docking Bay 93]

Yeah, I've heard of the acetone thing. Never tried it though.

HD, I'll go down there next week and see what they say. I'll let you know as soon as I do.

-E

 

[Megatron]

how about abrasive blasting it with aluminum oxide (kinda like "sand" blasting it)

 

[BATS]

what about just sand blasting the outside of the tubing??

that would create a nice frost effect

 

[Docking Bay 93]

I love hearing people use the word "just" before "sand blast it". java script:emoticon(':lol', 'smid_13')

Sandblasting is a pain in the tookas, and is difficult for something like this...I don't really like any of the options available for home users, since the chemicals could be bad, too. It's tough. I'm guessing that that stuff I mentioned earlier would work, but it is pretty pricey. I remember sandblasting to be a large setup, and something only a shop generally does. But I don't know.

HD, I'm going on Wednesday, so I'll let you know what I find out then.

-E

 

[Megatron]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Docking Bay 93 @ Apr 24 2006, 01:44 AM) [snapback]1232072[/snapback]</div>

I love hearing people use the word "just" before "sand blast it". java script:emoticon(':lol', 'smid_13')

Sandblasting is a pain in the tookas, and is difficult for something like this...I don't really like any of the options available for home users, since the chemicals could be bad, too. It's tough. I'm guessing that that stuff I mentioned earlier would work, but it is pretty pricey. I remember sandblasting to be a large setup, and something only a shop generally does. But I don't know.

HD, I'm going on Wednesday, so I'll let you know what I find out then.

-E
[/b]

not really there are small hobby kits for model work and glass engraving. Habor Frieght has some cheap options also.

 

[Benign Robot]

The best diffuser would be a translucent white sleeve tube inside the outer clear poly tube.

A similar technique is used in LIGHTBULBS (powder instead of sleeve), and is commonly used in neon to make lower frequency colors appear brighter - like red.


...oh, and put me on the list, of course.


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Megatron @ Apr 24 2006, 08:54 PM) [snapback]1232400[/snapback]</div>

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Docking Bay 93 @ Apr 24 2006, 01:44 AM) [snapback]1232072[/snapback]

I love hearing people use the word "just" before "sand blast it". java script:emoticon(':lol', 'smid_13')

Sandblasting is a pain in the tookas, and is difficult for something like this...I don't really like any of the options available for home users, since the chemicals could be bad, too. It's tough. I'm guessing that that stuff I mentioned earlier would work, but it is pretty pricey. I remember sandblasting to be a large setup, and something only a shop generally does. But I don't know.

HD, I'm going on Wednesday, so I'll let you know what I find out then.

-E
[/b]

not really there are small hobby kits for model work and glass engraving. Habor Frieght has some cheap options also.
[/b][/quote]

 

[Docking Bay 93]

Well, can you explain how we get the diffused piece diffused?

-E

 

[Dann]

Any bulb socket news? I gutted my ESB Graflex today in anticipation.

 

[Benign Robot]

No need to get it "diffused" - it's already a natural diffuser - it's translucent white. Light will pass through it while preventing you from seeing the LED tree inside.

Just order translucent white polycarb (LexanTM) tubing with an OD equal to the clear outer tubes ID. The wall thickness can be very thin - a few mils would do - unless you were going for more strength...

You could make a "super-blade" by using a diffuser tube with the same wall thickness as the outer tube and having them solvent welded the entire length - capillary action. The bonded double-wall would be nigh on to "unbashable".

Polycarb=Yes, Acrylic=No. Acrylic is very brittle compared to polycarbonate - it can't take the same kind of severe beating polycarbonate can. PC will still scratch pretty easy, though.

Just one plastic company as an example...

And if you want to try to make your own electronics from scratch - this guy can show you...


<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Docking Bay 93 @ Apr 25 2006, 06:58 PM) [snapback]1232883[/snapback]</div>

Well, can you explain how we get the diffused piece diffused?

-E
[/b]

 

[Docking Bay 93]

Well, the folks at TAP didn't know how to do it, other than what we've already come up with.

They also don't make pre-frosted tubing, as far as I can find, and not in that diameter. I'm still looking, and there's a plastics/tube specialist in town I can still go to. In fact, there are two. So, if it's made, I can find it.

-E

 

[hyperdyne]

ok thanks for checking. I thought I checked with TAP and they said they could do it but it would be a custom item. Hence you would need to order at least 1000 pieces or something. Anyway, let me know if you come up with anything.


BTW, finally got a couple sabers to a con here this weekend. Here is one of our local Vader's with one of my red Hyperblade MR refits. From the pics you can definitely appreciate how much light these sabers throw out.

The darker pic shows how much ambient light the saber throws, which is just plain absurd. Plus the above pic taken in a fully lit room gives you an idea of the brightness.

Take into consideration the blade COULD even go brighter, I have it using the 7.4V battery pack fully charged w/ bluetooth sound module installed.

 

[OldKen]

brighter you say???

you better be careful HD or your gonna get sued for BLINDING people... LOL...

seriously though... brighter?

like the sun?

LOL.

god i want to see one of these in person.

how did the people at the con react to it?

were they like is that a NEW MR or something?

im sure you or the guy dressed as vader got alot of questions about it.

<div class='quotetop'>(hyperdyne @ May 23 2006, 12:18 PM) [snapback]1249252[/snapback]</div>

ok thanks for checking. I thought I checked with TAP and they said they could do it but it would be a custom item. Hence you would need to order at least 1000 pieces or something. Anyway, let me know if you come up with anything.


BTW, finally got a couple sabers to a con here this weekend. Here is one of our local Vader's with one of my red Hyperblade MR refits. From the pics you can definitely appreciate how much light these sabers throw out.

The darker pic shows how much ambient light the saber throws, which is just plain absurd. Plus the above pic taken in a fully lit room gives you an idea of the brightness.

Take into consideration the blade COULD even go brighter, I have it using the 7.4V battery pack fully charged w/ bluetooth sound module installed.
[/b]

 

[jamiemp]

any updates on this fitting a graflex?
thanks