Thanks for sharing, last few days my worlds been upside down. I’ll update the first post tonight with these new photos!
RomanProps: STEEL IS REAL V2
- Thread starter Halliwax
- Start date
Thanks for sharing, last few days my worlds been upside down. I’ll update the first post tonight with these new photos!
Actually, set up is the same as the Mk1.
Clamp uses my hollow cage which allows for nearly ALL the space in the clamp to be used. Can easily fit a 28mm speaker. Or even a 31mm speaker.
The ID of the booster/pommel section is also the same as the Mk1, 0.955".
Excellent Roman!
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Well phooey, I was imagining something else in the clamp section. And would much rather have the speaker in the pommel.
I'm wondering if you couldn't make the set screw channel in the pommel section a little shallower in order to make the ID through the pommel section 1.1811" or larger?
Well, I couldn't as this run is complete.
Just waiting on the blade plugs.You could always bore it out and shorten the thumbscrew. I think you should be fine with the set-screw as is.
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Hey egosheep ! If you want to go for a V2/Obi-wan hybrid look:
You can "blue" the black parts (Grenade,Booster) with Nu-Blu...
stockdocusa.com
...and then rub/sand the tops of the rings to remove the bluing there, and scruff the Booster in splotches to emulate the chipped paint look of the V2.
The Emitter/Balance Pipe can be blued a bit and scruffed off to suit your taste, or go crazy with a propane torch and some motor oil to give it that "In-Turbine" feel. If you have access to a lathe, you could try slothfurnace's burnishing method, that'd look cool too I bet!
The section beneath the clamp and the pommel can be coated in WD-40. Let it soak in for a day and wipe it down before assembly. My Roman's Mk1 is a "Machined" look/ As First Built By, and the whole thing is still brand new looking with just WD-40.
Other options:
For a more traditional looking V2, get some stencils ( Trooper_trent maybe ), or make your own.
Paint the Grenade, and Booster, sand off the tops fo the rings to remove the paint there, and scruff up the booster or remove your stencil bits.
Paint the Emitter, and Neck, and scruff or remove your stencil bits.
Matte clear coat the entire lightsaber!
For a completely shiny, all metal, no paint version..
WD-40 the whole thing. Wipe it down after a day. Repeat yearly.
OR, Wipe the whole thing down with alcohol, dry it while wearing rubber gloves with a microfiber towel, blow off any loose fibers with an air compressor, tape off the threaded sections, and then matte clear coat everything, then assemble the entire lightsaber when dry after putting a lite layer of anti-seize lubricant or WD-40 on the threaded sections.
For a "I feel the presence of parfaitelumiere and thd9791 overwhelming me" style V2:
Assemble the whole thing really tightly after coating all the threaded sections with anti-seize lubricant...
and bury it in your yard for a couple of months.
Dig it back up, brush it off, install electronics, call it a day. hehehehe!
Though that would be the exact opposite of what you were asking, so be commited to the rust if you try it!
Good Luck on yours however you decide to finish it!
You can "blue" the black parts (Grenade,Booster) with Nu-Blu...
Welcome to Stock Doc
DIY Gun Stock Repair - Watch our video tutorial on how to easily restore the original finish on your gun stock. Gun Barrel Bluing
stockdocusa.com
...and then rub/sand the tops of the rings to remove the bluing there, and scruff the Booster in splotches to emulate the chipped paint look of the V2.
The Emitter/Balance Pipe can be blued a bit and scruffed off to suit your taste, or go crazy with a propane torch and some motor oil to give it that "In-Turbine" feel. If you have access to a lathe, you could try slothfurnace's burnishing method, that'd look cool too I bet!
The section beneath the clamp and the pommel can be coated in WD-40. Let it soak in for a day and wipe it down before assembly. My Roman's Mk1 is a "Machined" look/ As First Built By, and the whole thing is still brand new looking with just WD-40.
Other options:
For a more traditional looking V2, get some stencils ( Trooper_trent maybe ), or make your own.
Paint the Grenade, and Booster, sand off the tops fo the rings to remove the paint there, and scruff up the booster or remove your stencil bits.
Paint the Emitter, and Neck, and scruff or remove your stencil bits.
Matte clear coat the entire lightsaber!
For a completely shiny, all metal, no paint version..
WD-40 the whole thing. Wipe it down after a day. Repeat yearly.
OR, Wipe the whole thing down with alcohol, dry it while wearing rubber gloves with a microfiber towel, blow off any loose fibers with an air compressor, tape off the threaded sections, and then matte clear coat everything, then assemble the entire lightsaber when dry after putting a lite layer of anti-seize lubricant or WD-40 on the threaded sections.
For a "I feel the presence of parfaitelumiere and thd9791 overwhelming me" style V2:
Assemble the whole thing really tightly after coating all the threaded sections with anti-seize lubricant...
and bury it in your yard for a couple of months.
Dig it back up, brush it off, install electronics, call it a day.
hehehehe!Though that would be the exact opposite of what you were asking, so be commited to the rust if you try it!
Good Luck on yours however you decide to finish it!
Last edited:
Ridire Firean
Sr Member
Hey Romans Empire ! That new photo of the emitter sitting there with all the Blade Plugs has me confused.
This whole time I was thinking the Emitter, Neck, and Grenade section were all one piece, with drop in Nipple/LED Cup.
Do you have a parts break-down pic to share?
This whole time I was thinking the Emitter, Neck, and Grenade section were all one piece, with drop in Nipple/LED Cup.
Do you have a parts break-down pic to share?
I'll try to take one later today.
The breakdown is nearly identical to the Mk1. Only difference is the V2 "grenade" section is 1-piece. Everything else is pretty much the same as the Mk1.
The breakdown is nearly identical to the Mk1. Only difference is the V2 "grenade" section is 1-piece. Everything else is pretty much the same as the Mk1.
Thanks for the detailed answer, I appreciate it!
JPL427
Member
I'll try to take one later today.
The breakdown is nearly identical to the Mk1. Only difference is the V2 "grenade" section is 1-piece. Everything else is pretty much the same as the Mk1.
Does it have a piece of rod that goes in the hole of the blade plug?
Im in love!
It looks so good doesn’t it!
Most V2's will begin to arrive tomorrow!! The two (2) hex screwdrivers needed are as follows:
Booster: 1/16"
Emitter & Blade Plug: .05"
Please note the blade plug is tightened down, so don't worry that its stuck.
Booster: 1/16"
Emitter & Blade Plug: .05"
Please note the blade plug is tightened down, so don't worry that its stuck.
