RVLF
Sr Member
Any chance you have a link to these rgb leds ?
Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)
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cavx
Master Member
Not the cheapest units out there, but how cool are these?
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ir-leds/7732886/
I'm looking at how flat they are compared to other LEDs.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ir-leds/7732886/
I'm looking at how flat they are compared to other LEDs.
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WizardBTTF
Sr Member
Tried a side lit cast just to see, this was side lit with only 6 SMD LEDS. Still a few hot spots that annoy me, this was just regular casting resin with some white pigment added. The hot spots look worse in the photos then in person since I turned the camera iso really low to capture them. I think with a few more tests I'll be able to get it as even/smooth as an EL panel.
I'd probably suggest an SMD size like 5050 RGB, I am just using normal 5050 RGB leds for the domes, They have a wider view angle then most 3mm-5mm leds so they diffuse more over the same distance too. This isn't the same seller but its the same basic type I like to use, ebay item number: 122177307114 (I like the epistar brand more, but can't remember exactly where I get them off the top of my head)
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cavx
Master Member
WizardBTTF good colour and certainly brighter than EL.
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MrSouthpaw
Sr Member
I think the two-part system comes in spray-cans. But, again, I am not familiar with it or how it will react or if it discolors or stains etc. I can only speak to the one-part system in the blue bottle.
I did find this stuff, it seems to do the same thing as Neverwet and Crep protect. It's available for you guys in AU. But it seems a bit pricey.
http://nanoman.com.au/
@WizardBTTF
Those would be just fine for a costume-Mag as they are.
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RVLF
Sr Member
what is this ? SMD ? Sorry, but i need links and pictures, that's the way I learn ^^
cavx
Master Member
I have made a start on my new clears for the V3. Rather than pull the shoe apart, I am going to be molding this as a glove and jacket system, slush cast a master parts and then make official molds after I am happy with the casts in D65 plastic. That way I can wear my shoes in the meantime. Yes I am learning.
I started with a product normally used for lifecasts called Pinysil OddBod. This is semi gel state product designed to cling to vertical surfaces. It can capture great detail, but because it was so dam hot today (37C) and this stuff's pot life is too short to degas, so it can trap air and I also had to mix it is smaller batches and could cover the shoe in one go.
If you mix your silicone properly, the left overs should just peel out of the mix pot when it is cured. The same goes for the parts where it should just peel off like a skin.
As you can see from this close up, air bubbles. So I am rejecting these molds.
2nd attempt using the good stuff.
This is Vario-40. This stuff has a really long potfife (again shortened by the heat of today) but still long enough to degas. Unlike the OddBod which wants to glug out, the Vario is quite thin and pours in a thin stream. If a bubble is created by over pour (pouring over itself), it will generally rise and pop on its own with this stuff and why I love it so much. It self levels and has a shore of A40 vs OddBods A25.
What I have done here is to make a complete "print coat" (only 100g per shoe). This will take a few hours to set up, so I won't be able to do any more on them until tomorrow. Tomorrow, I mix up more and I simply pour layers until I get about 1/4 thick on the base, then I turn the shoes on their sides. I can add the next layer every 20min, so should be able to knock these out by tomorrow after noon. Notice no bubbles on the print coat. This means the final mold will be perfect. YAY!
I started with a product normally used for lifecasts called Pinysil OddBod. This is semi gel state product designed to cling to vertical surfaces. It can capture great detail, but because it was so dam hot today (37C) and this stuff's pot life is too short to degas, so it can trap air and I also had to mix it is smaller batches and could cover the shoe in one go.
If you mix your silicone properly, the left overs should just peel out of the mix pot when it is cured. The same goes for the parts where it should just peel off like a skin.
As you can see from this close up, air bubbles. So I am rejecting these molds.
2nd attempt using the good stuff.
This is Vario-40. This stuff has a really long potfife (again shortened by the heat of today) but still long enough to degas. Unlike the OddBod which wants to glug out, the Vario is quite thin and pours in a thin stream. If a bubble is created by over pour (pouring over itself), it will generally rise and pop on its own with this stuff and why I love it so much. It self levels and has a shore of A40 vs OddBods A25.
What I have done here is to make a complete "print coat" (only 100g per shoe). This will take a few hours to set up, so I won't be able to do any more on them until tomorrow. Tomorrow, I mix up more and I simply pour layers until I get about 1/4 thick on the base, then I turn the shoes on their sides. I can add the next layer every 20min, so should be able to knock these out by tomorrow after noon. Notice no bubbles on the print coat. This means the final mold will be perfect. YAY!
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Mikey McFly
Active Member
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NIKE-AIR...530965?hash=item25ca391e95:g:lnwAAOSw44BYQV2A
Someone trying to sell off V3s as "factory seconds" SMH
Someone trying to sell off V3s as "factory seconds" SMH
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Anyone ever found a reliable seller for the V2.1's with pre-slimmed toe and better material? I just wasted an hour on DHGate to no avail.
Rickhemingway
Well-Known Member
If you find out, please let me know 
Klen
Well-Known Member
You want to make clear soles for V3s ?
airair
Sr Member
when you do it this way, how do you make up the thickness of the clear soles that you would get if you remove them and do it seperately?
check out pages 7 and 8 in their technical write up. They describe two methods for eliminating hot spots, as well on the other pages they have specs for lighting round shapes.
https://www.acrylite-shop.com/pdfs/edge-lit-plexiglass-sheet.pdf
WizardBTTF. You have hot spots. I have panels that have thickness tweaked and brightness of led tweaked and angle of lights all perfected so you don't get hot spots. I offered to you all this material a while back. I csn create code with rechargeable computer systems that run el panels or LEDs or do whatever you want.
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hot spots have been defeated WizardBTTF time to tackle the hard things.
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WizardBTTF
Sr Member
The bottom part of your panels are brighter then the top. This is what I meant by hot spots, as in the whole part isn't 100% lit evenly like the EL panels are. Not hating on yah man, I said yours looks good. I am guessing you have the neopixel bar tilted back to give it more of back glow? It looks good, wasn't trying to be confrontational man. And I appreciate you offering me your material, nothing against you bro I just like figuring things out on my own. :thumbsup
