Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

OK crunch time. Who has actually used either Crep Protect or this Rustolium Never Wet of their V3s. I am testing this on my V2s first. It still has to dry for 24 hours before any said water repelling actually happens. If this works on the V2s then I'll do the V3s. Apart from a slight darkening due to the wetting of the fabric, there seems to be no other side effect. If they repel water, then perfect.
I have sprayed Crep Protect on 2 pairs of Nike shoes I have, one being a pair I wear to work everyday, and it seems fine. I haven’t worn my V3 outside, but before I do, I think I will give them a coat of Crep Protect.


Personally, I don’t like spraying it on any of my shoes, but better to be safe than sorry, especially if you wear your Mags outside and around people; something is most likely going to stain them at some point.
 
Agreed. Your work is amazing and you do things I would be game to even test. I know these batteries have to come out, but cutting open the innersole...

Question @Jedifyfe I know it would stuff the blade, but if it were heated, would it help by melting the glue?

There was a video where some guy was chopping up a 2011 MAG using what appeared to be a heated scalpel and he wad able to cut off the rubber parts really easy.

These shoes appear too fragile to be putting a heat gun anywhere near them.

i wouldn't try heating the blade as I might melt the fabric.
 
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For those who prefer the clear sole look, I gave my V3s a hit with seaglow today. They came out super clear. I'm very pleased with the results :cool
 
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For those who prefer the clear sole look, I gave my V3s a hit with seaglow today. They came out super clear. I'm very pleased with the results :cool

This does look really cool, but I can see the original cross sectional colour along the edge of the outrigger. How long does that last? It has to be quicker and easier tore-do this than make new clear soles like I am currently doing.
 
This does look really cool, but I can see the original cross sectional colour along the edge of the outrigger. How long does that last? It has to be quicker and easier tore-do this than make new clear soles like I am currently doing.

With some Jordans I've done this with previously it will usually hold its clear look for up to a few months before it starts to yellow again. But when that happens you can of course give them another coat of seaglow. It will also depend on how your shoes are either stored or worn i.e. UV, if you get the soles wet etc. Its best to do it before the get too yellow otherwise you need to do continual coats of seaglow to penetrate the soles adequately
 
I am not sure how many more times I need to say this. The yellowing of the rubber is ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE CROSS SECTION. It is not progressive by layers because it is transparent and light can reach the CORE. It is progressive by the way it darkens - IE, the more exposure, the darker it gets, but the whole thing darkens, not just the outside.

The rubber on the V2s was not clear to begin with. I found the product at my supplier and it is called TRANS-AMBER meaning "translucent amber" rubber. It has the same A65 Shore hardness as the clear PU I use on my soles. The difference is, this stuff bends without breaking. The PU is flexible, but has limits before it breaks. The ONLY WAY to make it look clear is to add blue pigment to it and hope it comes blue and not greenish. Getting an icy-blue is not easy. You also need a separate UV stabilizer which is also AMBER in colour.

I am not sure what the V3 rubber is yet, but I am sure I will find a similar product soon.
 
Anyway, I probably demolded this too early, but it would seem that I need to make a new pair of molds. I will have to buy Type F cat for the silicone.

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Some of the parts did not form 100%.

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There appears to have been a contamination as well.

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If at first you don't succeed....

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On a good note, looking at all the parts I have made, I do have an almost perfect pair of outer wings. I have 1 set of perfect inner wings and the pyramid tread is the same size as the pyramid mat I used last time. I have enough mat to make all the tread parts. So all I really need is that 2nd set of inner wings.

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Not a bad first try!
Maybe you'd be better off doing what you did with the second round of V2 soles and making them in parts rather than one big segment?

On another note, I just got an email from sneakerahead about Christmas Sale, but when I investigated, no sale on V3's. Pity. Who wouldn't want MAGs for Christmas?!
I was just sorry I didn't have the cash together to get some for their Black Friday sale, $50 off would have made a big difference.
 
Not a bad first try!
Maybe you'd be better off doing what you did with the second round of V2 soles and making them in parts rather than one big segment?

On another note, I just got an email from sneakerahead about Christmas Sale, but when I investigated, no sale on V3's. Pity. Who wouldn't want MAGs for Christmas?!
I was just sorry I didn't have the cash together to get some for their Black Friday sale, $50 off would have made a big difference.
Yeah making them in parts would be easier but if I can work out what I need to do, I should be able to pour as a single part with the same clarity of the parts I did for the V2.

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Do you have before/after pics?

No i don't and I regret not getting any. My soles only had a yellow hue and weren't as bad as some I've seen here. I only needed 1 coat of seaglow to get this result. With other sneakers I've done I have applied at least 2 coats to get similar results
 
On another note, I just got an email from sneakerahead about Christmas Sale, but when I investigated, no sale on V3's. Pity. Who wouldn't want MAGs for Christmas?!
I was just sorry I didn't have the cash together to get some for their Black Friday sale, $50 off would have made a big difference.
They told me that it was 450USD for instagram users ;)
 
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