Nike MAG replicas (V2 and V3 only)

Hey cavx Thanks. I appreciate you getting back to me in such detail.

http://www.led-switch.com/12 volt LED.htm


Thats a link to some 3mm LEDs that someone posted on the forum. But after reading your write up, I feel 12v times 4 is way too much? Not sure what resistor I'd need then.

Otherwise, is what you're saying at the bottom, that you only need one resister for all 3 rows of LEDs?

"Assuming you don't get the brightness differences, from memory the chart shows 50K resisters for each run. Yet 50K/3 is 16.6K, so I have to question the need for 3 x 50K when a single 16.6K could do the same job. Less soldering and less space for sure."

Either way, I'm looking to buying them soon... whether they are 3v or 12v.... If you do have a link to any suggestions, that would be dope. I'm just trying to buy and build asap. I know I can put it together, I just want to make sure I have the right stuff.

Thanks a bunch

Mave.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I did a single LED behind a colour filter. It did not work out that great because the way LEDs radiate light in a conical shape, and so with the LED placed sideways, the front of the bubble gets more light than the back.

Soon I will be doing an all EL version and it will look like LEDs with the head case they can give.

The factory shoe lights are all connected in parallel. That is why you often see a picture with one or two out in a row. If LEDs are wired in series and one goes out, they all go out.

Also from my testing of a wear pair, I can get 10 or 12 hours out of one set of batteries with an all EL set up. You 4 or 5 hours with an EL/LED system on the same batteries. If you goal is to wear these out in public, does it really matter what the source of light is? I don't think so if it looks like it should. LEDs don't work well in the soles unless they are really carefully diffused. EL seems to be the winner here, so why not just use it for everything and simplify the set up.

The all EL system won't need any resisters because EL is the same brightness. We need resisters with LEDs for both brightness reduction and to protect them from over load.

These lights are just on. They DO NOT sequence, so why do we need 12 LEDs on a shoe that is not close to 100% accurate anyway?

You want cool, then lights in shoes will give you that regardless of the light source.
 
I did a single LED behind a colour filter. It did not work out that great because the way LEDs radiate light in a conical shape, and so with the LED placed sideways, the front of the bubble gets more light than the back.

Soon I will be doing an all EL version and it will look like LEDs with the head case they can give.

The factory shoe lights are all connected in parallel. That is why you often see a picture with one or two out in a row. If LEDs are wired in series and one goes out, they all go out.

Also from my testing of a wear pair, I can get 10 or 12 hours out of one set of batteries with an all EL set up. You 4 or 5 hours with an EL/LED system on the same batteries. If you goal is to wear these out in public, does it really matter what the source of light is? I don't think so if it looks like it should. LEDs don't work well in the soles unless they are really carefully diffused. EL seems to be the winner here, so why not just use it for everything and simplify the set up.

The all EL system won't need any resisters because EL is the same brightness. We need resisters with LEDs for both brightness reduction and to protect them from over load.

These lights are just on. They DO NOT sequence, so why do we need 12 LEDs on a shoe that is not close to 100% accurate anyway?

You want cool, then lights in shoes will give you that regardless of the light source.

Would it be possible to have mock LEDs just to look the part close up? That way the EL behind it looks like real LEDs are there.
 
How close are we talking?

The way plan to do this is to have white EL (cut to shape) as the back layer, a green, yellow and red colour filters laid in strips and a mask (either white or black plastic) cut to the same shape with the 12 x 3mm holes drilled through. These line up with their rows of colour and are back lit by the EL. Unless you ABSOLUTELY know what should be there, you won't tell the difference. From a few feet, no one will know.

You could if it was THAT important, place clear bubbles over each hole or to be closer still, have 4 green, 4 yellow and 4 red bubbles.
Point being, if you are doing a custom re-build of this part, the same amount of work to make the mask is required for the mount for the LEDs anyway. The EL will provide a more uniform light output, will be able to to be run off the SAME circuit the sole lights run from and extend your battery lift to almost 3 times.
 
How close are we talking?

The way plan to do this is to have white EL (cut to shape) as the back layer, a green, yellow and red colour filters laid in strips and a mask (either white or black plastic) cut to the same shape with the 12 x 3mm holes drilled through. These line up with their rows of colour and are back lit by the EL. Unless you ABSOLUTELY know what should be there, you won't tell the difference. From a few feet, no one will know.

You could if it was THAT important, place clear bubbles over each hole or to be closer still, have 4 green, 4 yellow and 4 red bubbles.
Point being, if you are doing a custom re-build of this part, the same amount of work to make the mask is required for the mount for the LEDs anyway. The EL will provide a more uniform light output, will be able to to be run off the SAME circuit the sole lights run from and extend your battery lift to almost 3 times.

Would it run off of the same inverter?
 
sounds like a good idea - you could use actual coloured LEDs poked tightly through a solid plate, with their 'legs' cut off them and the white EL sheet behind it.
Would that work? Been a while since I tinkered with LEDs but I recall the plastic on the coloured ones is translucent and they should be able to be lit from behind rather than from within (as when you run power through them.) That would appear spot-on accurate and solve your need for any filtering.
If you drill the holes just the right size for the main body of the LED to push tightly through, the larger base of the unit will also stop it from going all the way through when you push it. Then a dab of super glue around the back of the base to stop it coming back the other way.
I could give that a try very easily with another source of light as the backing if my electronics equipment weren't all packed away in storage.
 
This is a screenshot of the stunt shoes, notice how frosted the led bubble is, I didnt realize it was so frosty! Which light source shouldn't be a problem with that much matte spray
Screenshot_2015-08-21-15-22-17.png
 
Ok. I have the money. As a divorce present to myself and a BIG FU to the ex I'm ready to order a pair. Since Karen is gone who should I order from. I don't want to get sent a pair of the "sport" versions.
 
Here is a little better shot of the real prop shoes bubble ';)

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=518361&stc=1

That almost looks like strips of colour inside? When I mold and cast the new bubbles to go with my new heel cups, the new bubbles will have the three slots in the back for the LEDs. I was thinking at one point just mixing and filling these slots with tinted rubber as I have red yellow and green transparent tints in my collection. A bit of a PITA and you would want to have several pairs on hand to go when mixing these up.

Not sure about LEDs DragonGalvy being transparent enough. They light up the way they do because they illuminated from inside. The EL would have to pass through from the back. Still worth a test.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That almost looks like strips of colour inside? When I mold and cast the new bubbles to go with my new heel cups, the new bubbles will have the three slots in the back for the LEDs. I was thinking at one point just mixing and filling these slots with tinted rubber as I have red yellow and green transparent tints in my collection. A bit of a PITA and you would want to have several pairs on hand to go when mixing these up.

Not sure about LEDs @DragonGalvy being transparent enough. They light up the way they do because they illuminated from inside. The EL would have to pass through from the back. Still worth a test.

Another thought would be to use el wire in the ankle bubble. I experimented with this at one time and may still go this route in my wear pair


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Another thought would be to use el wire in the ankle bubble. I experimented with this at one time and may still go this route in my wear pair


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I figure it is just easy to cut sheet to size based on how easy it was to cut the EL to shape for the sole.
 
I really hope we get some type of Nike Mag shoe real or fake by the end of the year. I mean - it's 2015! Let's see what the last 4 months has in store.
 
This thread is more than 3 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top