New Elstree Studio documentary with discarded Graflex.

Awesome video from the mighty Scottjua:



I still prefer my theory about that extra lever-turn accounting for the lever sticking out (that lever-screw tip is definitely visible and sticking out of the sidebar in the toe pic), but his theory is also plausible. My own build has the beveled bubblestrip and the one-extra-turned lever, and I got the same result, with the lever sticking out. And if the Elstree has the beveled strip, it seems likely to me that the hero does, too.
 
Awesome video from the mighty Scottjua:



I still prefer my theory about that extra lever-turn accounting for the lever sticking out (that lever-screw tip is definitely visible and sticking out of the sidebar in the toe pic), but his theory is also plausible. My own build has the beveled bubblestrip and the one-extra-turned lever, and I got the same result, with the lever sticking out. And if the Elstree has the beveled strip, it seems likely to me that the hero does, too.

How did I miss this?? I’m subscribed to his channel too! Watching now thanks!!
 
I still prefer my theory about that extra lever-turn accounting for the lever sticking out (that lever-screw tip is definitely visible and sticking out of the sidebar in the toe pic)

I don't know your theory off the top of my head, but notice the lever washer is still on the Graflex in Scott's video. Might that account for the difference in screw tip visibility?
 
I don't know your theory off the top of my head, but notice the lever washer is still on the Graflex in Scott's video. Might that account for the difference in screw tip visibility?

Yes, the ANH hero is missing the lever washer. The ESB sabers still have them, though. Therefore, without the extra bulk of the washer, the lever must be turned that extra rotation in order to properly clamp onto the flash tube halves, which causes the screw tip to stand proud of the non-lever sidebar. And, when a beveled bubblestrip is inserted, the clamp lever takes a lot of force to get into place, and sticks out just as it does on the screenused hero (unless you REALLY force it down). I'm sure Scott would get the same result if he removed his Graflex's washer.
 
Yes, the ANH hero is missing the lever washer. The ESB sabers still have them, though. Therefore, without the extra bulk of the washer, the lever must be turned that extra rotation in order to properly clamp onto the flash tube halves, which causes the screw tip to stand proud of the non-lever sidebar. And, when a beveled bubblestrip is inserted, the clamp lever takes a lot of force to get into place, and sticks out just as it does on the screenused hero (unless you REALLY force it down). I'm sure Scott would get the same result if he removed his Graflex's washer.
How do you know that the lever washer is missing on the ANH hero ?
 
How do you know that the lever washer is missing on the ANH hero ?

It’s clearly not there in the publicity photos.

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And, just for funzies, the toe pic, showing that nub peeking out of the upper sidebar.

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...and my TGS with the same setup:

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But note that this is an older image of my TGS. I’ve since replaced the bubblestrip with a more accurate one (which has the proper thickness, and edges that I gave a slight bevel to). Waiting patiently for the next Rebelscum bubblestrip run.
 
And, just for funzies, the toe pic, showing that nub peeking out of the upper sidebar.

View attachment 1066379


...and my TGS with the same setup:

View attachment 1066380



But note that this is an older image of my TGS. I’ve since replaced the bubblestrip with a more accurate one (which has the proper thickness, and edges that I gave a slight bevel to). Waiting patiently for the next Rebelscum bubblestrip run.
How do I remove the washer from my TGS Gen 2 replica?
 
How do I remove the washer from my TGS Gen 2 replica?
With the clamp separated from both halves of the flash tube, pinch the two sides of the clamp together so that the lever can be unscrewed. The washer is loosely held in place between the lever and the sidebar. Disassembling the clamp will allow you to easily remove it after the lever is unscrewed from the clamp.
 
Lol... Yes you're right the extra screw poking out easily be taken up by the extra turn if I'd remembered to take the washer off.

Thing is... I forgot completely about it. Lol

I was focused on all the other stuff it just didn't cross my mind until haliwax asked why I didn't. Hahaha

So... Seeing as how that's an easy fix, I'll do that on my own personal one today.
 
Lol... Yes you're right the extra screw poking out easily be taken up by the extra turn if I'd remembered to take the washer off.

Thing is... I forgot completely about it. Lol

I was focused on all the other stuff it just didn't cross my mind until haliwax asked why I didn't. Hahaha

So... Seeing as how that's an easy fix, I'll do that on my own personal one today.

..two L’s

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I glued some rivet heads between my grips last night, too!

They're not as accurate, size-wise (at least the two smaller ones), but I actually kinda like the look!

Not that I'm gonna be drilling holes in the side of my (or what I believe is my ONLY real) Folmer bottom tube! Pretty sure all my other genuine Graflex bottoms are regular old Graflex, Inc. versions. I never really cared much about that, though it sure seems other folks do!

Pics in a few....

Here we go, they definitely look messier in the pics than in person, and I'll likely swap them out and do a nicer job. I literally did this RIGHT before I got in bed last night. Actually, I had already gotten in bed, and I talked myself back OUT of bed just to do this! I know, I'm an idiot. Hahahaha

It's just that I HAD to know what it looked and felt like up close with these rivets there.
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Oh, and yeah, I didn't remove my clamp lever washer, either. And my bubble card edges are beveled, like the Elstree. Just because I liked the look. I think Scott's theory is correct.
 
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Looks stellar!

Has anyone re drilled their single rivet d ring for two rivets? Does the strength or integrity of the brass bottom come into question with three holes sort of near eachother?
 
I glued some rivet heads between my grips last night, too!

They're not as accurate, size-wise (at least the two smaller ones), but I actually kinda like the look!

Not that I'm gonna be drilling holes in the side of my (or what I believe is my ONLY real) Folmer bottom tube! Pretty sure all my other genuine Graflex bottoms are regular old Graflex, Inc. versions. I never really cared much about that, though it sure seems other folks do!

Pics in a few....

Here we go, they definitely look messier in the pics than in person, and I'll likely swap them out and do a nicer job. I literally did this RIGHT before I got in bed last night. Actually, I had already gotten in bed, and I talked myself back OUT of bed just to do this! I know, I'm an idiot. Hahahaha

It's just that I HAD to know what it looked and felt like up close with these rivets there.
View attachment 1066889View attachment 1066890View attachment 1066891View attachment 1066892View attachment 1066893View attachment 1066894

Oh, and yeah, I didn't remove my clamp lever washer, either. And my bubble card edges are beveled, like the Elstree. Just because I liked the look. I think Scott's theory is correct.
Did that red button come with that vintage Folmer?
 
Looks stellar!

Has anyone re drilled their single rivet d ring for two rivets? Does the strength or integrity of the brass bottom come into question with three holes sort of near eachother?

While I haven't drilled into a single rivet d-ring piece I have had issues with structural integrity on a Graflex replica. If you run into an issue, you can use washers around the rivet on the inside of the bottom piece and it works very well. It's a bit tricky to get the washer onto the rivet and hold everything in place but I've managed to make it work.
 
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