Mouse Vader
Sr Member
I'd agree. What do you think the white squiggle is to the right of that line, right above the end of the button?
Magic of Myth ( MoM ) Luke RotJ Hero ( cave build ) lightsaber research, images, reference, & collaborative model builder's discussion.
- Thread starter BRRogers
- Start date
You'd get two tees from an I beam, or H beam, but some shapes have tapers, and you gotta pay attention to the thicknesses, too.
Lemme get a pic of all the shapes I've gathered, and been playing with for the last what, six months or so? All my posts about the plastic rails are in that old thread that was left to die.
Lemme get a pic of all the shapes I've gathered, and been playing with for the last what, six months or so? All my posts about the plastic rails are in that old thread that was left to die.
Okay, here's a buttload of pics, sorry in advance!!
The leftmost tee (which is 3/16") is the one that I've been using for my rails. Although I modify the shape. I shorten the stem, and make it thinner.
These are rails I modeled and printed, and have since abandoned these in favor of the hand-modded tees.
Here's the packaging and model numbers or whatever for the shapes.
And my ridiculous collection of K&S stuff. This isn't even all of it!
And different shapes I've tried for the brass rails. The rectangular tube on the far right is what I like best.
The leftmost tee (which is 3/16") is the one that I've been using for my rails. Although I modify the shape. I shorten the stem, and make it thinner.
These are rails I modeled and printed, and have since abandoned these in favor of the hand-modded tees.
Here's the packaging and model numbers or whatever for the shapes.
And my ridiculous collection of K&S stuff. This isn't even all of it!
And different shapes I've tried for the brass rails. The rectangular tube on the far right is what I like best.
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Love it
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Read this as authentically.
That's a great mockup, my eyes can definitely see those general shapes on the real one, nice job!
Love the little strip of balsa!
Fantastic übernerd research. 
Thanks, everyone!
Just out of curiosity - has anyone seen a higher-rez shot of the cave sabre's box interior? The Original Prop Blog's photo rez is obviously fairly low. The only other one I've seen is a book scan, and so has halftone rosettes. Thank you!
Thanks, everyone!Just out of curiosity - has anyone seen a higher-rez shot of the cave sabre's box interior? The Original Prop Blog's photo rez is obviously fairly low. The only other one I've seen is a book scan, and so has halftone rosettes. Thank you!
check under the "control box" section in the first few posts of the thread.Fantastic übernerd research.
Just out of curiosity - has anyone seen a higher-rez shot of the cave sabre's box interior? The Original Prop Blog's photo rez is obviously fairly low. The only other one I've seen is a book scan, and so has halftone rosettes. Thank you!
*found it for ya*
Thank you! Actually, that's exactly the photo I was referring to - the Original Prop Blog picture. It's fantastic, but if only it were 2-3x higher rez...
Thank you! Actually, that's exactly the photo I was referring to - the Original Prop Blog picture. It's fantastic, but if only it were 2-3x higher rez...
Might be worth reaching out to the owner to see if they could provide a high-res scan
*edit* I shot out a message to the blog owner
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Newest proof-of-concept.
The upside down T on both side has the leg removed all the way up until about 1/32” is left to allow a card stop.
With the rails on, it wobbles left to right.
So the 1/16” sq. wood rod is trimmed to sit flush on the left rail edge and pushes the card to sit off center (but snugly) to the right. With the Brass L on (still waiting) it should move without play and mild friction.
As much as I can tell... this more closely replicates the prop’s condition.
More importantly, the gap and the ends closely match up in the reference: and the stop on the front with the T replicates the circumstance where the card sits off the front edge just a hair (until the rails were bent and the card could slide beyond the stop)
The upside down T on both side has the leg removed all the way up until about 1/32” is left to allow a card stop.
With the rails on, it wobbles left to right.
So the 1/16” sq. wood rod is trimmed to sit flush on the left rail edge and pushes the card to sit off center (but snugly) to the right. With the Brass L on (still waiting) it should move without play and mild friction.
As much as I can tell... this more closely replicates the prop’s condition.
More importantly, the gap and the ends closely match up in the reference: and the stop on the front with the T replicates the circumstance where the card sits off the front edge just a hair (until the rails were bent and the card could slide beyond the stop)
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That's great!!
I was thinking they must've made some sort of "stop" for the thing, when Luke pushes it closed in the cave scene. Nice job!
Although, how would that explain the shot y'all were just talking about, with the card sticking out the front? Or am I remembering the scene wrong, and Luke pushes it closed from front to back?
I was thinking they must've made some sort of "stop" for the thing, when Luke pushes it closed in the cave scene. Nice job!
Although, how would that explain the shot y'all were just talking about, with the card sticking out the front? Or am I remembering the scene wrong, and Luke pushes it closed from front to back?
Here ya go:
*link to cave scene*
Luke makes the “adjustments” inside the control box at two points, slides the control box closed from back to front with a (foley effect) ‘click’ (although very clearly, it has a stop). He then turns the hilt and his thumb over towards the black buttons; igniting it.
This simply implies in my mind that the box was freshly in working condition in the scene. The rails worked and were properly set/aligned, the stop
worked, and there was enough tension to keep the card in place during movement.
Compared to now.
Broken, displaced rails. misalignment allowing the card to bypass the stop. No friction and failed glue which has likely been re-glued.
Makes a lot of sense IMO
P.S. also....
Black switch activation argument
I've done so. Sadly he doesn't have anything higher.
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Speaking of the interior, I think it's quite interesting. The strangely shaped gold material looks to me like it might be leftover brass etched sheets from the Death Star II build. Does that seem possible?
I do wonder about the chip, though. It's a surface mount IC, and I sort of wonder how commonly available that type of package was in 1982-1983...
I do wonder about the chip, though. It's a surface mount IC, and I sort of wonder how commonly available that type of package was in 1982-1983...
Mouse Vader
Sr Member
Just viewed that scene again & that's a bang on assessment. Jeez what a mess it is now.
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