HEY I can see a peak of your wired cast paint job in the back - how did you get the random black pattern over the silver? spot. on.
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HEY I can see a peak of your wired cast paint job in the back - how did you get the random black pattern over the silver? spot. on.
YES IM SO EXCITED!! I’ve been waiting awhile now and i’ve been excited the whole way. Super awesome to see all the work and updates tooRuns 8 and 9 are finished and I've messaged everyone on those respective runs. Run 10 and 11 are up! I'm still taking names for anyone still interested. As long as folks are wanting these, I'll still make them.
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And I'm grateful for every one you've ordered! I hope you've enjoyed each piece. All of our back-and-forth on these things over the years have lead us this. The research these are built from, you certainly helped contribute to.
That’s exactly how I am!! Mine is coming soon!My package arrived a few minutes ago, and I am beyond pleased. PoopaPapaPalps this is excellent stuff. The weight is amazing. Unfortunately I have to leave for work now, but the thought of painting/finishing this is going to get me through the day!
So excited to answer this - if you look at the V3 proper, you'll notice that amidst all the foil tape (even on the clamp bars) the lever hole has been bored out by a REALLY shallow angled countersink. This brings the lever closer to the nut and I believe it's only held on by a few threads.Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
You got pictures of the spot in question or the tool you used? I’m afraid my brain isn’t quite comprehending what I need to do hahaSo excited to answer this - if you look at the V3 proper, you'll notice that amidst all the foil tape (even on the clamp bars) the lever hole has been bored out by a REALLY shallow angled countersink. This brings the lever closer to the nut and I believe it's only held on by a few threads.
A normal countersink will blow out the hole and you'll be riding the hinge pin as the brace (I did this with my motorized V3 by accident)
You can also file down the opposite (nut) bar but I haven't tried this, you'd need to take down a lot and that would alter the nut thread positioning a little.
Anyway, its a neat thing I didn't notice until someone pointed it out to me during this very same predicament
Some of Roman’s clamps have variance in the diameter through the stamping which is unfortunate. If you have another Graflex you can test to see if it’s an issue with the clamp by switching it out and see if it has a similar issue.Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
This is what I'm seeing as well - the foil is torn from tightening the lever and below is a rusty bar.I’m just not seeing what you guys are seeing. Isn’t the “enlarged hole” you’re seeing just where rotating the lever has worn away the foil tape?
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I used a real clamp and I had to bend it a little so I can close it over my v3.Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
You got pictures of the spot in question or the tool you used? I’m afraid my brain isn’t quite comprehending what I need to do haha
The lever hole has been drilled out into a big cone shape. Normal countersinking bits are too steep, idk what they used, something more than a 90 degree bit.
the clamp really is quite wide, its almost completely open.
...The original V3 clamp appears to have left the tabs on causing the clamp to be wider than the booster area because of the gap.
Lots of problems will compound if you don’t verify that the clamp matches a vintage first