Limited Run **LINEAGE** Foundry Cast - ANH Kenobi Stunt Hilts (ANH/ROTJ - V2/V3)

PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
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HEY I can see a peak of your wired cast paint job in the back - how did you get the random black pattern over the silver? spot. on.

Stippling a dry brush of black on. Little thought and little effort to do it. Random pick-up texture with a paper towel. That's about it.(y)
 

APOLLO IND

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Runs 8 and 9 are finished and I've messaged everyone on those respective runs. Run 10 and 11 are up! I'm still taking names for anyone still interested. As long as folks are wanting these, I'll still make them.

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And I'm grateful for every one you've ordered! I hope you've enjoyed each piece. All of our back-and-forth on these things over the years have lead us this. The research these are built from, you certainly helped contribute to.
YES IM SO EXCITED!! I’ve been waiting awhile now and i’ve been excited the whole way. Super awesome to see all the work and updates too :)
 

Eruonen

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
So excited to answer this - if you look at the V3 proper, you'll notice that amidst all the foil tape (even on the clamp bars) the lever hole has been bored out by a REALLY shallow angled countersink. This brings the lever closer to the nut and I believe it's only held on by a few threads.

A normal countersink will blow out the hole and you'll be riding the hinge pin as the brace (I did this with my motorized V3 by accident)

You can also file down the opposite (nut) bar but I haven't tried this, you'd need to take down a lot and that would alter the nut thread positioning a little.

Anyway, its a neat thing I didn't notice until someone pointed it out to me during this very same predicament
 

Eruonen

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So excited to answer this - if you look at the V3 proper, you'll notice that amidst all the foil tape (even on the clamp bars) the lever hole has been bored out by a REALLY shallow angled countersink. This brings the lever closer to the nut and I believe it's only held on by a few threads.

A normal countersink will blow out the hole and you'll be riding the hinge pin as the brace (I did this with my motorized V3 by accident)

You can also file down the opposite (nut) bar but I haven't tried this, you'd need to take down a lot and that would alter the nut thread positioning a little.

Anyway, its a neat thing I didn't notice until someone pointed it out to me during this very same predicament
You got pictures of the spot in question or the tool you used? I’m afraid my brain isn’t quite comprehending what I need to do haha
 

thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The lever hole has been drilled out into a big cone shape. Normal countersinking bits are too steep, idk what they used, something more than a 90 degree bit.


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the clamp really is quite wide, its almost completely open.
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
Some of Roman’s clamps have variance in the diameter through the stamping which is unfortunate. If you have another Graflex you can test to see if it’s an issue with the clamp by switching it out and see if it has a similar issue.

If you have a dial or digital caliper you can double check the diameter of the body under the clamp as well to see if it matches the approximate 1-1/2” of a typical Graflex clamp or if it is bigger… which it should be.
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Another angle, the clamp bars have been bent in as well while what Tom has said explains the length of the lever bolt.

The original V3 clamp appears to have left the tabs on causing the clamp to be wider than the booster area because of the gap.

Lots of problems will compound if you don’t verify that the clamp matches a vintage first
 
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thd9791

Master Member
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What a great shot, thank you!

I don't know if I've ever seen the tabs still on the clamp, but yea, it's a mess. Actually you can see there the lever lies parallel with the clamp bar... usually its up at an angle... it sits that way when some of the hinge is buried in the bar!
 

BRRogers

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
On a second look. Seems like they might’ve opened the hole and then filled the inside of the bar with something . Filler; epoxy, jb weld, or something the like to give it a solid surface underneath the face of the bar
 

Dewy

Sr Member
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I’m just not seeing what you guys are seeing. Isn’t the “enlarged hole” you’re seeing just where rotating the lever has worn away the foil tape?

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v312

Sr Member
I’m just not seeing what you guys are seeing. Isn’t the “enlarged hole” you’re seeing just where rotating the lever has worn away the foil tape?

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This is what I'm seeing as well - the foil is torn from tightening the lever and below is a rusty bar.
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The lever does not look to be more "inside" the bar compared to unmodified bar without the nut like on the ANH graflex
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v312

Sr Member
Okay weird question. Started work on my V3, and it’s too thick for the Graflex clamp to close. The threads of the lever aren’t actually even able to touch the other side. How did y’all solve this? Do Roman’s clamps not work for this?
I used a real clamp and I had to bend it a little so I can close it over my v3.
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thd9791

Master Member
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There is material missing, I was given this information from a good source, if that means anything, someone that's held the thing
 

Eruonen

Sr Member
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Oh man, I didn’t know any of this stuff was a thing. Definitely seems that at least the square washer is missing. All four of my repro clamps are the same size, I just checked, so I guess I’ll have to start modifying one. Thanks for all the insight guys!
 

PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You got pictures of the spot in question or the tool you used? I’m afraid my brain isn’t quite comprehending what I need to do haha

You just need to open the bar with the lever hole up a bit to match the real thing and to get the clamp to fit. You want to enlarge it to a large enough hole that you can get full rotation from the lever. You'll also have to discard the square washer like the real thing, too. You can do this with a drill bit but I think it's a lot easier, although a bit more time consuming, to just use a round needle file.

The lever hole has been drilled out into a big cone shape. Normal countersinking bits are too steep, idk what they used, something more than a 90 degree bit.

the clamp really is quite wide, its almost completely open.

...The original V3 clamp appears to have left the tabs on causing the clamp to be wider than the booster area because of the gap.

Lots of problems will compound if you don’t verify that the clamp matches a vintage first

It may have some material left inside but the tabs would most definitely had to have been ground down to even fit on the V3, even with the machining done to the clamp section. There would just be no possible way to do it otherwise. From the casts, how they turn out oblong and in the V3's case, misaligned, to clean up the seam on the booster as well as clamp section means having one side of the cast with more material missing than the other and relatively "flatter." These things are not round. Putting a clamp around these means one "side" is going to hug a bit closer than another.

We must also remember that the clamp on the V3 previously belonged to something else, another stunt or maybe it was just old, but the bevel in the lever hole may not necessarily be from anything intentional but just wear from the lever being on the bar and grinding against it, removing material. The one I keep on hand to fit on the V3's I make to test fit clamps and align all the proper grub screws have this detail from constant turning to add and remove the clamp.
 

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