Help with Airbrushing

Subzero121

New Member
Hello

I am fairly new to the site and was wondering if anybody could help me out with this issue. While painting styrene kits, particularly those with large surface areas I am getting a powder effect. As part of the prep work I sand the model with fine grit (600 ~ 1000) and remove the residue thoroughly. Normally I use Testors model master series for these jobs. I am considering upgrading my airbrush to solve the issue but wanted to see if this is a technique issue rather than an equipment issue. Thanks for your help.

Cordially,

Subzero121
 
Sorry for my english... certainly the airbrush is best choice. Probably your powder effect it depends on the density of the color. It is better paint more times but less dense.

I hope I have helped you.

Paolo
 
Your paint is either too thick (add more thinner) or you running too much air through your airbrush (turn the air pressure down) also an airbrush isn't really suitable for 'large' surfaces.
 
Last edited:
It sounds like your paint is drying before it hits the model. You may be holding your airbrush too far from the surface. It's been years since I've airbrushed anything, so can't really give you any good advice on what to adjust or change. Hopefully others can chime in with advice on paint mixing, air pressure, etc. Just out of curiosity, what is your air pressure and how are you mixing your paints? Is it lacquer, enamel or acrylics and what are you diluting your paints with?
 
Thanks to all for your respective inputs. I'll certainly will put them to use when I prep the model once again for base coat (currently I am working on the AMT Defiant). I was also thinking of replacing my airbrush. Any recommendations on the replacement? Good quality and reasonable price preferable. Thanks again. BTW here are some of my pieces should you,like to comment on my work.

IMG_0087.JPGIMG_0086.JPGIMG_0088.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0089.JPG
    IMG_0089.JPG
    1.3 MB · Views: 100
What kind of brush are you using?

Yes, it does sound like the paint is drying before it hits the model. Try spraying with less pressure and closer/heavier coats, and definitely more thinner. You might try a different type of thinner too (not sure if you're using enamel or...?). You want the paint to be thin like 2% milk, or even thinner for some jobs. For painting large areas I really like my Paasche model H, which is a simple and pretty cheap brush. Even with the small tip (#1) the coverage can get up to about 1" if you open it wide.

I like Model Master acrylics and have never had this problem with them when paint is properly thinned, haven't used their enamels for a long long time. You can thin the acrylics with windex or alcohol, or Testors thinner. Tamiya sprays better in my opinion though, so try that if you can get it. Probably practice on some kits you don't care about is in order. (or even on other plastic crap you may have laying around).
 
To answer your question Pedro its a very cheap model I got from ebay (Airbrush City). I am also using model master enamels and standard thinner. BTW thanks for your inputs. Question though is that airbrush also good for detailing or do you use another airbrush for that purpose.
 
Yeah, those chinese airbrushes are touch and go. I've had one that worked well for a while then quit, and another that never worked well. ;) I used my H for everything for years actually, it'd definitely good for detailing. However, after just buying a mid level Iwata I can tell you that a quality double action will give you much much finer lines. The H is a workhorse though, easy to maintain, very durable, and I wouldn't give it up. Frankly I don't actually do a lot of detailing with airbrush, but maybe if I would if I had steadier hands! ;) Anywa, my short answer is if you want to spend $100, I'd say get an Iwata, if you want to spend less get an H.
 
i used to get this problem when i first started to use an airbrush with enamel paints.usually too much thinner and too much pressure.
with some adjustments and fine tuning you should be able to fix this.
i eventually went to a better quality airbrush and compressor and switched to acrylic paints.much easier to work with.
i highly recommend paashe single action airbrush's.very easy to use and clean.when you get more experience you can upgrade to double action airbrush.
although i spent years mastering a double action i now use the simpler single action all the time.:)
 
Thanks again. Anyway what is your impression regarding my work. I am trying to identify areas of improvement since the next jobs are a little pricey. Want to create excellent pieces. To list a few AMT Ktinga cruiser with all the JT Graphics resin and photoetch updrades for the Quonos 1, the FM Millennium Falcon and the VF-25 & VF-27 from Macross Frontier. I am also purchasing materials to build a 1/350 Nebulon B. I did some quick numbers and should be running around 3 feet in length.
 
The pics are a little grainy, but all those models look pretty darn good to me. :) (is that a Gundam decal on the Y-Wing?)
 
Yeah, I used to print custom Gundam decals and sell sheets back in the day, so it popped out. :)
 
Hello guys
Wanted to express my gratitude to all who contributed to this post. I lowered the pressure on my airbrush and diluted the paint and it solved the issue.I promise to post the pics of the finished Defiant once I am done. Thanks again.

Cordially, Subzero121
 
I just wanted to say beautiful work on your builds but the Blockade Runner and Y-Wing really stand out to me. I really like the paint job on those. If I were to do anything else to the Y-Wing, I would add a little darker weathering to the engine exhausts. But I'm definitely no expert and still have a lot to learn about painting and weathering myself.
 
Glad you got things sorted out OK. As for airbrushes, I used a single and a double action Badger airbrush with a Badger air compressor. I also had a dust free spray booth that I built for spraying which helped a lot as well.
 
This thread is more than 9 years old.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. This thread hasn't been active in some time. A new post in this thread might not contribute constructively to this discussion after so long.
If you wish to reply despite these issues, check the box below before replying.
Be aware that malicious compliance may result in more severe penalties.
Back
Top