Bigturc
Sr Member
Good to hear!! PM sent! ;-)
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Done / Completed Guardians of the Galaxy : Starlord Gravity Mine and Infinity Orb
- Thread starter Bigturc
- Start date
Good to hear!! PM sent! ;-)
80sKIDAutoman
Well-Known Member
Yes i would love to buy those hinges in clear thermoplastic 
More pics if anyone is interested this time with the resistor greeblies. The resistors are slightly larger than the originals but I think they work quite well. Also turned some replacement resistor end pieces out of aluminum to go with it. Still working on lighting it though!
80sKIDAutoman
Well-Known Member
Soulinertia WOW that is beautiful
How did you achieve this? This is exactly what i envision and with the center light.
Just wanted to share the pics real quick. I'll do a detailed write up soon, but I gotta run right now. Thanks for the kind words guys :thumbsup
I'll do a detailed write up soon, but I gotta run right now. Thanks for the kind words guys :thumbsup
So to make the light up parts I used the same micro SMD units from my local supplier that I'm using to make my V2.0 infinity stones.
Each one is it's own independent unit, so they all have to be manually turned on and off with a twist action on the back. Not ideal for this particular project, but it works.
In order to get these things to light, I thought about drilling out the back of the resin piece and cutting the triangular shapes in the front, but that was going to be a ton of work x 3 and knowing me, I'd probably end up cutting through a piece I didn't want to on accident. So I ended up making a quick mold and casting them in translucent plastic instead. I embedded the SMD units prior to curing. Then I painted out the areas I didn't want lit with a black acrylic.
I used a similar led unit for the center light, but I'd like to actually incorporate the light into the design instead of just having it sit there on the table in the middle. I'm looking into embedding a micro smd at the tip of each of the 3 prongs. I'll keep you all posted with my progress.
For those looking to light their own, there are a few different sizes of SMDs that will work:
I'd recommend any of the first three above. :thumbsup
Each one is it's own independent unit, so they all have to be manually turned on and off with a twist action on the back. Not ideal for this particular project, but it works.
In order to get these things to light, I thought about drilling out the back of the resin piece and cutting the triangular shapes in the front, but that was going to be a ton of work x 3 and knowing me, I'd probably end up cutting through a piece I didn't want to on accident. So I ended up making a quick mold and casting them in translucent plastic instead. I embedded the SMD units prior to curing. Then I painted out the areas I didn't want lit with a black acrylic.
I used a similar led unit for the center light, but I'd like to actually incorporate the light into the design instead of just having it sit there on the table in the middle. I'm looking into embedding a micro smd at the tip of each of the 3 prongs. I'll keep you all posted with my progress.
For those looking to light their own, there are a few different sizes of SMDs that will work:
I'd recommend any of the first three above. :thumbsup
Bigturc
Sr Member
** UPDATE **
Jim and Tom, your sets will be ready to ship probably tomorrow! Sorry for the delay!
On another note, the molds are starting to show signs of tear .. I've casted around 40 parts per molds, it's pretty normal and the darn cold casting killed them 3x faster too!!
On the other hand, if we look at the screen props, it's full of dings and metal defects .. so does that make my cast more screen accurate?!?
:thumbsup
Jim and Tom, your sets will be ready to ship probably tomorrow! Sorry for the delay!
On another note, the molds are starting to show signs of tear .. I've casted around 40 parts per molds, it's pretty normal and the darn cold casting killed them 3x faster too!!
On the other hand, if we look at the screen props, it's full of dings and metal defects .. so does that make my cast more screen accurate?!?
:thumbsup
I think I found a solution to the center light with these SMD's.
80sKIDAutoman
Well-Known Member
Bigturc and Soulinteria you need to make these thermoplastic clear hinges avail as an upgrade or replacement. Maybe the 3 clear hinges with all the LEDs, wiring and switch as a KIT to install. Damn awesome.
Bigturc
Sr Member
Gotta admit Soul's work is pretty awesome! BUT I would need to have a whole bunch of people interested to redo a new mold and rethink the master to allow this!! Don't forget that right now, the solution is to have those lighting bulbs separately under each hinge triggered independently! I would have love to have a more evolved solution in the base kit though but really not sure if it was worth the extra complexity!
Bigturc
Sr Member
Jim and Tom, both your packages shipped today! Check your email for tracking or the first post!!
Cheers guys!
ataru72ita
Sr Member
Gotta admit Soul's work is pretty awesome! BUT I would need to have a whole bunch of people interested to redo a new mold and rethink the master to allow this!! Don't forget that right now, the solution is to have those lighting bulbs separately under each hinge triggered independently! I would have love to have a more evolved solution in the base kit though but really not sure if it was worth the extra complexity!
I would be interested indeed big time!!
To have my cold cast upgraded with clear parts and electronics as well!
Regards,
Alberto
Bigturc
Sr Member
Hi Alberto,
Right now, I have 2x v2's and 2x v1's set ready to go. I won't be casting anymore until those are gone.
I also have one set that was a test for cold casting! The color of the parts are not 100% the same, but at the same time, tint and cold cast proportions are hard to maintain when doing different batches of different sizes.
Right now, I have 2x v2's and 2x v1's set ready to go. I won't be casting anymore until those are gone.
I also have one set that was a test for cold casting! The color of the parts are not 100% the same, but at the same time, tint and cold cast proportions are hard to maintain when doing different batches of different sizes.
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