Graflex 2.0 Sabers - Show your work / Talk Electronics

H0llyw00d said:
Actually frosted may diffuse the light for shine-through glass eyes better than clear.
Click to expand...

Problem is when you come to bond it in place: The adhesive will fill in all the small abrasions and you wont have that effect any more. Just wet the flat back after sanding and you'll see an example of what to expect.

I'm tackling this too today. Will try to insert a 2.5mm fiber Optic in the threaded section to transmit the light nicely to the new glass bead. Will keep you posted on results.
 
I will try this experiment and see but this is not glass this is lucite a very hard plastic I will show the results I will use E6000 I'm about out of epoxy have to get some more. Thanks....Jim
 
Okay I see what you are saying but this still defuses the light some what. here is the results and I couldn't help myself to show off R2 D2 Thanks....Jim Picture 807.jpgPicture 806.jpgPicture 804.jpgPicture 805.jpg
 
Let's see how you make out with the lucite....I'll snag one off you if it works. Don't want you to waste your time shipping if it doesn't work out....I think if anything we could even open the hole up that you would thread the eye into....use a bigger screw that's easier to drill...take the thumbscrew drill the bottom out....add the lucite piece and glue that to the threaded piece...this may be a terrible idea mind you....but if the lucite bonds to say a rod of plexi that's able to go into the threaded set screw area it would hold better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It only cost me two stamps and I gots a whole book of um no problem done sent out a set. and if this is the case I know the lucite will work as you just said doing it that way bit of work but end results will be super I've stuck this on lots of projects and super glue epoxy is best and E6000 all hold well enough you have to break it to pry it off.You will break your project the lucite is tough. Thanks....Jim
 
Last edited:
Yes your saber is bad ass, fiber optic cool on a light saber and not a model well it is a model of a diff. type the kind of models I'm really starting to get into. Great Job Thanks.....Jim
 
i can't really cos i was working with a fast cure epoxy so had no time to snap pics.

basically, after drilling out the body:

Cut the fibre optic oversize and smooth one end.
Clean everything thoroughly.
Dab epoxy into the top opening (lens side) and insert the fibre, bad end first, finishing good end flush to the bottom of the cup
Carefully apply more epoxy over the entire cup area
Insert glass eye and push down to help extract bubbles and excess
Keeping glass eye secure, move the fibre optic up and down to help "pump" out the bubbles. Finish firmly up against the back of the glass eye.
Wipe excess away and leave to cure
Cut excess fibre optic to just beyond the thread and finish by sanding flush.

Shine through Glass eye....Done! :D
 
I've been so out of it with my build and not having time to work on it, looking through all your builds and tips got me hyped up to go again. I have all my parts and keep building a section at a time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

PoopaPapaPalps
Done / Completed Original '76 ANH Kenobi Stunt Casts (4145/A)
2
Replies
24
Views
5,973
PoopaPapaPalps
PoopaPapaPalps
lukyanov
A small batch of weathered and installed «Creepy Uncle» Luke's TLJ sabers
Replies
12
Views
4,555
ebeckman83
ebeckman83
Triin
The Adam Project - MAG-CYL - Lightsaber Research and Development Thread
Replies
5
Views
2,328
Triin
Triin
JCDenton0
Darth Nihilus lightsaber
Replies
1
Views
2,141
Alcadude
Alcadude
JCDenton0
ESB Hoth Graflex - Roman Props with Prizm V5
Replies
3
Views
2,916
JCDenton0
JCDenton0
Back
Top