Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

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Markus

Well-Known Member
The mechanical setup with the gears looks quite complex to me. Have you considered a solution with a cheap ammeter (with a modified scale) which is controlled by PWM through a rotary encoder?
1620923870056.png
 

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iklask

New Member

zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Markus
Yes, purchased that exact meter years ago, it isn't small enough for the rad gauge. For that I am using the smallest air core motor I could find.

For the radio I need to record the input as well as move the needle. I could read the knob electrically and the move the needle, but this wouldn't have near the tactile feel of a geared knob. Also the knob and needle need to move along the same axis, so there wouldn't be room.
 

ZadeWilson

New Member
View attachment 963848
August 2018 3D design rendering

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The latest updates:

Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

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/2018 Status:

The project is continuing, just in fits and starts.

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/2017 status:

Howdy folks,


Well, after much thought, I have decided to do what many have asked for: I will be releasing the full CAD files for the Functional Pip-Boy 3000 MK4.


I am releasing these files as a unfinished work. I still intend on going back and making my “master” version someday. But currently I have a new home with its own projects to work on.


If you want to check out my home projects, I will be publishing that project at: www.halfwayupthehill.com. (There isn’t much up at the moment yet)


I am releasing these files for the sake keeping a huge amount of work from going to waste.


I put a ton of work into this design. I have used my years of experience with product design to create what I feel is the most accurate, and faithful version of the Pip-Boy 3000 Mk IV. The design uses real metal hardware, and mixed materials to achieve a look as good as if RobCo built it themselves.


To that end, this design is expensive. There is no way around that without losing out on quality. This is an unfinished design. Do not expect to just order all the parts, and put it together like a model airplane. Lots of work is still needed to even build just one of these.


It is up to the community to continue the work.

/May 2018 Edit:
-I am releasing the CAD files for those looking to build the next Pip-Boy, or finish my 3000 Mk IV design.


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Hello, this is my first post to the RPF, but this isn't my first major project by far.

My goal is to create a Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from the game Fallout 4. Why not just get one of the limited edition models? For one, they are sold out. Two, I don't want a glorified plastic phone case. I want a Pipboy that at least has all the knobs and buttons functional.

View attachment 963849

View attachment 963850

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View attachment 963851
Click here for the original rendering (5-days into the project)
Click here for the newest renderings

The model was created in Solid Edge, and rendered in Keyshot.

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View attachment 963852
Click here for the original early rendering

My plan is to 3D print the model, however to get the level of detail I want, I will probably use SLS printing. However, the expense of that may change my mind. Currently I am focusing on getting a CAD model that has everything laid out. Making it real can come later.

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View attachment 963853
Click here for the original early rendering

I want to have everything that should be lit up, lit up. Currently the plan is to try to directly print the RAD gauge and Radio gauge artwork onto a piece of thin acrylic. If that doesn't work, then perhaps a vinyl transfer. To that end I have re-created the two gauges as vector art in CorelDraw.

The RAD gauge will be driven either sudo randomly by a small motor, or perhaps driven like a compass using a set of electromagnets. I don't think I will be able to fit a true Geiger counter in, plus they can be expensive. So currently the plan is to drive the RAD meter with data from a contactless IR temperature sensor. The radio gauge will be connected to a microcontroller and FM radio chip. It may also simply scan through pre-programmed sounds taken from the game. I haven't decided yet.

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View attachment 963854

Solid Edge has been my CAD software of choice for almost a year. It is overkill for a prop, but allows for some serious modeling in a short period of time.
The model as shown here was started just 5 days ago and done in my spare time. By day I am a product engineer so this type of design is right up my alley.
It was created from scratch using reference photos from the game trailer, images of the limited edition model, as well as referencing dragonator's 3D printable model.

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View attachment 963855

The LCD screen will be a 3.5" 4x3 LCD. That is if I can find a android device that can drive it.

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View attachment 963856

The bottom latch will be functional. Thanks again to dragonator for creating a latch that I could then reference. Mine works basically the same as his but with a few changes to make it possibly hold tighter. I also plan on putting magnets it to hold it together until the latch is secured.

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View attachment 963857


The opening in the Pip-boy is scaled to fit my own arm, with some padding added. The rest of the model was scaled by referencing the size of the character's thumb in the demo video of the Pip-Boy.

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View attachment 963858

The holotape mechanism will also be functional and spring loaded. The release button will act as both a latch, and a kicker to push it open. The actual yellow holotape is the only model I copied from dragonator's model, although I scaled it down by 75%. The plan is to put RFID tags into the holotapes, and have those kick off a program on the Android device.

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More to come as I get stuff done. I may share the model at some future time when it is more complete. Currently only the outside is done and I have yet to make a scale mock-up.
Dang, that is a beautiful build.
 

zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
51182374330_02b8e5951a_c.jpg


THIS IS HUGE!
Okay it actually about the size of a mini-fridge, but it is a huge step up in being able to 3D print my own parts instead of relying on Shapeways.
This is the Form Labs Fuse 1. The business I work for reserved way back in 2017, and it just arrived this week. Every once and a while I will get to print some personal parts on it.

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51182067484_cd5dda2494_h.jpg


I snuck a set of Holotape parts into the first test print we ran overnight.

The image above shows a raw Shapeways part (Left), compared to a Fuse 1 raw part (middle) and a dyed Shapeways part (right).
The Shapeways parts come as a white nylon, and can be dyed other colors. The Fuse 1 parts are gun-metal grey, so they can't be dyed lighter colors, but can be painted or dyed black.

The parts come out of the machine caked in powder. It took quite a bit of cleanup but I think the results are outstanding.
 

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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Pip-Boy, 3000 Mk IV, July 14, Internal USB.jpg


The backside of the Pip-Boy contains the battery, charger and USB circuits. To connect the front electronics to the back I had a wire running across the gap between the two sides. And a large metal pin for the hinge.

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51183448127_6245b890e7_h.jpg


The issue is that the wire would have to extend and retract about an inch each time the Pip-Boy is opened. This will eventually wear out the cable, and in general it is hard to push a wire. Eventually the wire is going to get crushed.

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51185208130_6b352cbe43_h.jpg


So lets see how complicated I can make the hinge by turning it into a slip-ring electrical connection!
To make a slip-ring hinge I stacked a steel pin, plastic spacers, zinc plated brass spacers, and another steel spacer onto a long nylon screw.

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51183448117_9d4c843727_h.jpg


The pin is then locked into the back-half using set-screws. Six regular pogo-pins connect the power board to the slip-ring hinge.
Six roller-ball style pogo-pins are located on the front half and they pick up the power and signals off the slip-ring.

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Ref, Pip-Boy, Back.png


51184913614_0693f68456_h.jpg


It took quite a few revisions and whole day to work out an electrical connection that is not visible from the outside. I noticed that the middle of the hinge on the in-game Pip-Boy is a larger diameter than the two sides. This was what helped me to get it all to fit with only a tiny gap visible at the backside.
 
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Inquisitor Peregrinus

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If it weren't for proprietary intellectual property, I'd want to nominate you for some sort of recognition in the industrial-design arena. You're taking this to places I'd never imagined realistically possible -- and then squaring and cubing it again beyond that.
 
Do you havw all the pictures on your website of the progress so far, in case someone wanted to look and not go through every page on here? I'm pumped you're gunna be working on this again, on and off.
 

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