Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by zapwizard, Aug 19, 2015.

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  1. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    (Click for a 4K version)
    29076621907_53bbcfa6bf_c.jpg

    Time for another sweet 3D render. I will probably drop a few more of these in the next few days. (I let them run for 8 hours each)

    This is as close to perfect as I can get on the design in CAD. All changes now will be pushed either by the electrical design, or by changes from a prototype build.

    I have ordered a bunch of electronic parts and development boards. However I plan on finishing the dosimeter first.

    I have had an offer from a fan of the project to 3D print all the parts in used/old SLS powder at no cost. This will be a huge help to the project. I will post the name of the company once the parts arrive (No exact time-frame). They will become the prototype parts.

    I still have lots of small prototyping to do, such as all the laser-cut parts.

    I have to figure out the best method to make the rad guage and radio dial faces. The Rad gauge might be just fine using a high quality print on card stock. But the Radio readout needs to be 100% opaque. For this I plan on painting a piece of diffused acrylic with black paint, and then laser-etching the artwork into the part.

    For all the decals, I am going to try using dry erase transfers. (I don't like the outline that is visible around wet-transfer decals.) I also need to try out Rub-n-Buff for the metal areas, or that popular chrome marker that is making the rounds on the RPF.

    I am also split between making an aged Pip-Boy like in-game, or a brand-new Pip-Boy as shown in the render above.
     
  2. xl97

    xl97 Sr Member

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    I have a laser cutter.. if you need access to it for anything. (Small, hobby sized one.. roughly 21x12 work envelope.... should be fine for anything you'd need though)
     
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  3. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    xl97: Thx, but we have a 40W Universal Laser at my job I can use.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  4. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Man, my mouth is watering! :cheers

    Looking forward to this sooooooo bad!!!!
     
  5. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    More pretty renderings...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Project Update:

    I have several of the development boards I need for the motor controller, but I am waiting on lots of electronics parts and tools.

    Small life update:

    My work on the Pip-Boy may slow down a bit in the next few months, for a few reasons:

    1) I really have to get my home office remodeled before I can do any serious electrical assembly. As of this morning my home office was a desk with my design PC, and a crap pile of half-unpacked boxes. I cleaned out everything and will be painting it soon. I have decided to use Vault-Tec colors with blue and yellow colors.

    2) I have to rebuild a lot of my electrical tool and component library. You see when I was twelve: My brother in law, who has since past, sent me all his electronic textbooks, tools, and parts after he had finished technical school. I credit this with being the catalyst for my interest in electronics. So when my Nephew (his son) showed interest in learning electronics a few years ago, I packed up nearly half of my stuff and shipped it to him. To sort of return the favor. Although as far as I know my Nephew hasn't actually dug into that stuff yet. In either case, I no longer have a huge library of discrete components and wires to smash together an electrical prototype. I have to start from scratch, and that is expensive.

    3) Costs. As just mentioned above. Building up a library of parts, and tools, as well as a workshop can be expensive. I limit my hobby spending to a fixed cost per month, so for some aspect of the project I just have to save up.

    4) The weather is getting nicer here in Texas, and that means I will be back to working on the house again.

    5) I hope to get all of the above done before Fallout 76 drops, because then I won't get anything done anyways.

    Here is an image of my office design. (Done in SketchUp)

    43214955455_5a018b0d09_c.jpg
     
  7. PhoenixVader

    PhoenixVader Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I have seen other Fallout fans and considered myself a Rabid Fallout Fan (i have my own Fallout shrine at home), but you Sir are without a doubt the most Over the Top, Unadulterated Fallout Fan that I have ever come across. I salute you.

    And awesome project. I look forward to seeing a finished product.

    thomas;)
     
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  8. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    PhoenixVader, Thanks.

    I am of course working on the Dosimeter at the point. I am re-learning so much software that I will need for the Pip-Boy. I may split the electronic tasks on the PIp-Boy between a MSP430 and the Raspberry Pi. With the MSP430 handling almost all the peripheral tasks, and the Pi handling a GUI. This way the same base electronics could be used for a lower-cost Pip-boy radio or other project without the screen. (Such as a Radiation King FM Radio)

    One development of late is that I have SLS 3D printed parts for the Pip-Boy on the way to me now! They should arrive in a few days.

    A fan of the project who also happen to work for a SLS 3D printing shop was kind enough to 3D print all the arts using left-over slightly used powder. This will be a huge boost to the project as 3D printing even prototype parts like this is expensive. With these parts I can test all the moving parts, and do a full assembly without electronics.

    He took a photo of the parts next to the Pip-Boy edition. Here you can see that my design is much more game accurate, and just a bit smaller.
    I will be sending him a set of hardware in trade so he can assemble the set he printed for himself.

    20181015_224619.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  9. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    I finally have access to a Prusa i3 (Mk3), and am starting in on my backlog. Most things I'm doing in PETG with a 0.2mm nozzle (I can go down to a 0.05, if needs be, but I think I'll wait and set up an additional machine for the ultra-fine stuff). Always happy to add my name to the hat now, for anything you want prototyped or for final pieces for which that resolution (the layers are thinner than the aperture size, to be clear -- width versus height) is fine.
     
  10. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @ Inquisitor Peregrinus, I have a Ultimaker 2 just outside my office with similar specs to the Prusa i3. It printed the parts show on the last page.

    For anyone who has never experienced a SLS 3D print, the differences aren't obvious It's not just about layer or nozzle resolution. Every part, no matter the size, comes out with the same resolution and tolerances. The surface has a slightly rough texture, but there is no pimps, strings, or support artifacts left behind. Once lightly sanded and painted, the parts are as smooth and uniform as injection molded plastic. They are also completely solid. Something not even 100% infill can do on a FDM printer. I will do some direct comparison of FDM versus SLS once the parts arrive.
     
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  11. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    Trust me, i know the difference. :D I just couldnt remember if you had a 3D printer, or had had those previous parts printed elsewhere.

    Because I prefer PETG over PLA for anything that isn't going to get cleaned up for casting, I'm fine using it for all the knobs and buttons, assuming all those in the .stl section of the CAD archive were locked designs. If I dial down the layer height, the 3D print texture is almost nonexistent, and the same cleanup as with SLS yields an equally smooth surface. I've tried acetone vapor to smooth ABS, but haven't yet seen if it works at all for PETG. If I could have that bare plastic "polished" smooth by that process rather than painting, I'd prefer it.
     
  12. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    45463220721_b9d2e637b6_c.jpg

    Today is super-exciting! All the 3D parts arrived! These were made by a fan over at Ultimate 3D.

    They are made from old powder, but that just adds a bit of pitting. It actually looks perfect for aging the parts anyways. Every single part was dimensionally perfect. Everything fit together, with only a hole or two that needed to be drilled.

    First off, the Pip-Boy is a LOT of parts! It took me hours to put together a mechanical mock-up using these pieces.

    ------------------------------------

    43646050690_7e1631fa4c_c.jpg

    I am missing my nav-switch (forgot to order it) and one of the buttons (Can't find in my project bin). I also need to order and laser-cut all the acrylic parts.

    I can tell you that it is already far better than the Pip-Boy edition. I put in a bit of temporary foam and latched it to my arm. It doesn't spin around. You can actually walk around with it on your arm and not feel like it is about to drop to the floor. You can coplay with a PIp-Boy without having to hold your arm perfectly horizontal!
    Note: It probably does cut off a bit of blood flow.

    For now this image is a teaser, Iater I will be posting more along with a video going over all the moving parts.
     
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  13. Popeguy

    Popeguy Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow, have you got it all printer on SLS machine? That must've been quite expensive... but I think it's totally worth it.
    PS. loving all the mechanical parts inside!
     
  14. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    It's even more beautiful than the renderings. This just got so much more real.
     
  15. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @Popeguy: It typically would be very expensive (>$500) to 3D print all these parts on a SLS machine. The project fan over at Ultimate 3D says they let him use the spent left over powder to do his own projects. FYI for those who may not know: Spent powder is the un-melted powder left behind in the machine after a run of parts. It works, it just doesn't mesh together quite as well as new powder. But I am happy with the results. The Pip-Boy isn't ever meant to look new. The resulting pitting looks very much like rusty corrosion.

    @inquisitor Peregrinus: Thanks. I have to say it sitting here on my desk is making me very happy. Over three years into this project now. It was so satisfying to put it together and have all the moving parts work as designed. Now I need to order acrylic, and a few more parts to make the mechanical prototype complete. I also need to get a airbrush setup going.
     
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  16. seekerofgiants

    seekerofgiants New Member

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    That looks stunning! Straight out of the game... Keep up the fantastic work!!!
     
  17. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Oh man it just looks so amazing man. How thick was the foam you used? For me, like i have said, the pipboy phone case that bethesda made fit my arm tightly when using the hard foam that came with it. But without it, it is loose. So i'm just hoping this would fit on my arm depending on the type of foam or inner fitting i use. XD always had big arms. Even when i was <190 wrist bands were tight on my wrist. I have thick wrists XD
     
  18. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Voltaire Surge: I just threw in a piece of packing foam as a temporary measure. If the Pip-Boy edition was tight on your arm, mine probably won't fit with the foam in place. I did have a coworker with quite thick wrists, and it fit his arm well without the foam. Perhaps with just a shirt it would work for him.

    ---------------

    Small update:

    43809085160_50b59f9011_c.jpg


    I laser-cut all the rest of the acrylic parts. Soon I will attempt to heat bend the acrylic to make the curved CRT like display. I am hoping to sag-form it using gravity, otherwise I will have to resort to a pressurised forming jig.

    ---------------

    43809087370_7615fe952a_c.jpg

    I do have to say that the Fallout shelf is coming along nicely.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  19. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    What are the current measurements inside the pipboy now? It really does look amazing. Me and my parents are going to be going on a diet soon so my arm may thin up a bit. I'll measure my arm again just to see if it will fit. i would be devistated to have it not fit XD
     
  20. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Voltaire Surge:
    The Pip-Boy was designed to optimally fit my own arm with ~6mm or (1/4") of padding all around.

    The optimal wrist circumference is 204mm or 8"
    The maximum wrist circumference is 242mm or 9 1/2"


    The optimal forearm circumference is 270mm or 10 5/8"
    The maximum forearm circumference is 314mm to 12 1/4"

    I did make the latch adjustable, so you can still clamp it to your arm with a gap between the two halves, so it can size up a few more millimeters if need be. You would want a leather cuff, or some other item, as the Pip-Boy can pinch skin when the two halfs come together.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  21. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    I just took a tap mesure to my wrist amd wrapped it around it. I was a metal one but it did the job. I got just about 8 inches at the wrist with some squeeze cause its a metal one not fabric. Then exactly 10 and 7/8th around my forearm just a bit further up than the middle area with a slight squeeze. So i guess it fits? Just with some squeeze XD how long is the pipboy?
     
  22. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Have you had any time to check out the fallout 76 beta? Jw
     
  23. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  24. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Got it. All fair pointa that i can agree with. I'll have to add you. That said, have you had the time to make a video of your put together pipboy with all thenparts moving? Also, now that u had some in game time with it, thoughts on the pip-boy 2000 mk vi? I noticed it has no light up buttons, the top scroll knob is a rotary encoder with a push switch, theres a secondary knob for the radio altogether, and there is a rocker switch on the radio aswell. Not sure if its for the pipboy power itself or if its just for the radio. Not sure ifnits on topic though.
     
  25. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Now that the site is back up i wanted to ask if you would be doing a video on the mechanical aspects of the pipboy once its all finished up. Nit the electronics part mind you. I suspect thats alittle while off. Dont want to be spammy at all was just o dering.
     
  26. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    ♫ Country roads...take me away...from the projects...I love...West Virginia....Fallout 76...taking my time...country roads♫

    Seriously, I have recorded a few videos, I'll try to get one posted.

    It is also that time of year, when games and home projects will be taking most of free time.
     
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  27. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    Something like this inexpensive slide viewer wouldn't work for cannibalizing? I'll be test printing a couple chunks of the front body to test-fit components this week, including one of these lenses. It seems close to the right size, the 3X magnification is subtle without being exteme, and if it's a little too big, I can cut it to size easily enough...
     
  28. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Close work cut it, the Pip-Boy has only room for a panel exactly 3mm thick, and the exact right shape. The art designer curved the edges to amplify the CRT look. Real CRTs actually have straight perfectly straight sides to the display, they only look curved from an angle due to the trim following the curve of the glass.

    Besides, I want to learn the from acrylic anyways. Part of this whole project is to expand my skill set by doing things I know are possible, but that I haven't done for myself yet. However, if I end up needing a glass form to use as a mold half, I may look at ripping apart a slide magnifier (one with glass instead of plastic)
     
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  29. linein

    linein New Member

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    Man, I love the way the gear reduction works on that tuner knob. What a great creation!
     
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  30. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Hey Zap. Did you say before that you would order a pipboy 2000 kit to take a look at it? Or amni misremembering? Either way my own kit arrived yesterday and its... its even a bit bigger than the fo4 phone case version from before. Yet looks harder to fit a processor or screen into it. I'll attach an image of it on my arm.
    20181116_102323.jpg
     
  31. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    @Voltage Surge:

    I had to upgrade to collection to a bigger shelf today:
    45852182762_2e6ffdd26c_b-jpg.jpg

    I recorded a unboxing and review of the helmet and the Pip-Boy 2000 MKIV. I also recorded the three hours it took me to put it together, I don't edit video very fast, I am getting a big back log.

    Text review of the Helmet: Holy cow is it huge! Some aspects are quite high quality, some areas need work.
    The Pip-Boy 2000 MKiV is great, much much better than the Pip-Boy edition from FO4. I enjoyed putting it together. Although the arm strap doesn't tighten down enough, even after I modified it. I can't wait to see the mods people do to it, it can easily be painted/upgraded.
     
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  32. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    Will you consider nodding your own varient or would u rather just build a functional one from scratch? I wonder because for the most part this new pipboy seems to be very simple in build. Akd aside from how the holotape player can only open fully in the replica when the whole thing is pulled all the way out, where the games seems to pop out the same and yet doesnt need to fold into a 90 degree angle from the cuff. I dont remember if it was something u would consider or not. That aside i look forward to both your reviews as well as a video on the fully build mechanical functions of the 3000 mk iv whenever that comes about.
     
  33. iklask

    iklask New Member

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    Hey zap, semi related to your build and the new 2000mk6: I was wondering what the size of your holotape is compared to the one included in the piboy 2000 mk6 kit! I was going to post on your holotape thread but idk this forum's rules about necro-ing. thanks!
     
  34. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Voltaire Surge: I think the Wand Company did a great job on most of the parts. I wouldn't re-engineer it from scratch. However, since everything comes apart, it may be worth designing a few upgrade modules to add functions to some of the parts with either a direct replacement, or a internal upgrade. However, I am not doing anything to mine for the time being, its just pretty on my shelf. Perhaps after I get an airbrush station setup, I will age it a bit.

    iklask
    I0HsHla.jpg

    I am working on my video this weekend. But here is an image from the video showing my holotape and the Wand Company holotape side by side.
    Their holotape is the only non-game accurate part in the whole build. They decided that matching the width of the part in-game was more important than matching the overall perportions. So theirs is set to the proper width, and then shortened to fit into the space allowed. Obviously the in-game model is cheating again on how the Holotape actually fit inside.

    That said, my holotapes fit great inside the PIp-Boy 2000 MK VI. My tapes are the same height and depth as theirs, just not the same width. So with some added spacers on the sides you could use my design in their build.
     
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  35. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Okay, here is the video showing the mechanical prototype details.
     
  36. RyceKaeks

    RyceKaeks New Member

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    Commented on the YouTube video but just in case you don't really read that I wanted to mention that the bottom right dial/knob that you made into a 4 way select is actually supposed to be a volume control knob, as for the dial on the left of the Pip-Boy is possibly a brightness control or as the think geek version has it as is a temporary screen switch off, but brightness makes more sense to me.
     
  37. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    RyceKaeks replied here also:

    Here is the in-game Texture image, with the GAIN label. I plan on adding that label back onto the left knob. A gain knob is something that was present on a CRT oscilloscopes so it makes sense on a CRT Pip-Boy. Since the knob can rotate 360 degrees, it can be software programmed to control a whole host of functions, perhaps based on what screen you are in, or what setting you have selected. All the GUI is still to be programmed though.

    The small knob below the radio makes sense as a volume control, although I never saw anything in-game describing it as such. However, without any type of touch-screen or up/down/left/right function, the GUI would be impossible to navigate using a scroll-wheel and select alone. Inquisitor Peregrinus came up with the idea originally. I added it to the design back in Dec 2016...I swear...I will get this thing done someday.
     
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  38. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    Yeah -- I have that switch as a four-way directional, 360° rotational, center-select; function determined by the screen selected. Controls for the mini-games, waypoint setting and zoom for the map, volume for the radio, item selection for the inventory, etc. zapwizard thinks the switch I want won't fit. His looks good, but doesn't have all the function the one I like has. Now I've printed a test-article, I can order the switch and see if I can make it fit. ;)
     
  39. RyceKaeks

    RyceKaeks New Member

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    Have you guys ever looked at the think geek version of the Fo4 Pip-Boy 3000? The functionality of it is based on the design doc of it by Bethesda.
     
  40. CAKComedyProps

    CAKComedyProps Active Member

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    I really want to see your 3d print painted! It looks amazing! I think I came up with a proper paint color as well. Most people just paint it tan, but I mixed a tan color and an olive drab color together and depending on the lighting it changes from green to tan like in the game. I think I used the model masters paint colors, I'll post the pics when I get home.
    This thread is really getting me back in to the Fallout mood again.
    Also I have plans to totally accurize the 76 pip boy when I get it for Christmas as well so I'm excited!
     
  41. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    RyceKaeks, I wouldn't consider the Bluetooth edition cannon in any way. Whomever designed it for ThinkGeek didn't put much time into it.
    The Holotapes are inserted in backwards, and for some reason they are brown. The knob on the left side acts as a button. It uses the same non-game accurate 3D model as the Pip-Boy edition, and has unnecessary protrusions and recesses added to make the docking station work. And the fact that most of them broke, means it doesn't have that RobCo lasts forever guarantee.

    CAKComedyProps, I agree that it isn't just tan. It does have some olive drab in it. I haven't yet started researching paints. But I do have a Amazon wishlist with about $500 of air brushing gear waiting for hobby funds to build up.
     
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  42. Voltaire Surge

    Voltaire Surge Member

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    zapwizard will you be painting it first or getting the electronics rigged up first? Just to have it run a sort of preliminary program for the pipboy so se can get people creaming their jeans XD
     
  43. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    Regarding the paint... As posted previously, with my plans to cork my Pip-Boy, I tend to over-think and over-engineer things. Yes, this often makes things more complicated than they strictly need to be, but it makes me happy, so... *shrug*

    I've learned a bit about olive-drab paint over the years, in my pursuits to replicate scale color and sun-fading. First, I was gobsmacked to learn that it's not a mix of black, red, and white (black and red make brown, and then white lightens it toward tan-ish). It's a mix of yellow and black. The fading is a result of the black bleaching out under sun exposure. So the effect is re-created by adding a neutral yellow (like Insignia Yellow or Zinc Chromate Primer) to the o.d.

    So get some period-accurate o.d. paint colors and some yellows and don't be scared to experiment. I know a nonzero number of folks following this thread likely already know this, but I'm putting it out there for anyone who doesn't.
     
  44. CAKComedyProps

    CAKComedyProps Active Member

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    Here’s the pictures of the paint. The Pip-Boy shifted on the print bed (my fault) so I didn’t bother sanding it, but the paint mix was 1:1 model master dark tan and olive drab. Next time I was thinking I’d add a 2:1 tan to olive to be a little more tan, but I’m pretty happy with how it looked so far.
     

    Attached Files:

  45. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    Yeah, some people swear by buff, khaki, and tan as a lightening color, too, rather than yellow, so that's a good approach.
     
  46. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    May I be so bold as to suggest that the color you are looking for is Model Masters Field Drab (#4708). This will give you the color I believe you're trying to achieve. You can see this color applied on a Military Power Armor helmet I painted on my PA helmet thread.
     
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  47. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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  48. zapwizard

    zapwizard Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    While I don't have much experience (yet) with airbrush paints, I do have lots of experience with color matching things due to my professional design work, and architectural work. Rule #1 is that no matter how calibrated your monitor is, the color online is only a rough guide. I will probably order and test a host of similar colors before deciding.

    Using the attached images, rendered in NIFscope, so without in-game color bias, I think that the green tint is very slight. So #2051 might be a bit closer, perhaps even one shade of green less. I have been doing some experiments with painting nylon on the Dosimeter project. I can achieve a very high gloss finish that emulates a powder-coat process by using just primer, and lots of coats of paint, wet-sanding between coats, it takes forever, but the end result takes it from a "3d print" to something that looks 100% real. You can see this in the video posted above.


    PipboyDusty_20180709_22-11-03.jpg PipboyDusty_20180709_22-10-12.jpg
     
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  49. Inquisitor Peregrinus

    Inquisitor Peregrinus Master Member

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    You really shouldn't post hardcore porn, sir... :cautious:;)
     
  50. CAKComedyProps

    CAKComedyProps Active Member

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    Maybe if I did a base coat of straight tan, and lightly add olive-tan mixture it would be more accurate. The faded olive and field tan look pretty good as well.
     

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