Functional Pip-boy 3000 Mk IV from Fallout 4

jellis359

Jr Member
Don't forget to adjust all your tolerances for the 3d printed parts based on the extruder head size and deformation of the filament during cooling. I had this issue with my planetary gearboxes. I'd do a test print for all of your circular press fit pieces before committing to printing the whole thing. Ive found that printers generally oversize circular prints due to the above.

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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
@jellis359: I have all the tolerances adjusted for SLS 3D printing, which is far more accurate than filament printing. I have lots of experience making SLS parts, including items with moving hinges. While it costs a lot more, the parts can be a lot more integrated together and require very little post-work to use them. Typically only a light sanding is needed, and sometimes holes need to be re-drilled, but that is just about it. A filament simply printer can't do all all the internal cutouts, and other features which are integrated into the design. A resin type printer can be used, but then you loose the flexibility and workability that SLS Nylon provides.
 
zapwizard so, you managed to reduce cost, improve functionality, and also put slightly more room in the pipboy itself? it looks amazing, you took something they was near perfect and upped the bar even higher! amazing! so i assume you'll change the outside to look more like it does in game? ration of the knobs and such. it looks amazing. bet you dont get tired of hearing that huh?
 
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Praetor

New Member
I'm stupidly excited over this... I was pleased with my CE PipBoy, but ultimately a little let-down by the quality (or lack thereof). So this REAL PipBoy is so exciting! It looks incredible!! :D
 

LoneWanderer

Active Member
Nice I already did that same USB set up on my modded collectors edition. Soon to also have functional Android operation pip boy brains haha. Nice work so far! I especially love your holotape designs.
 

zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
@Voltaire Surge, I have adjusted quite a bit of the outside to make it closer to in-game. But only to make it more proportionally correct. If I made it exactly like the game model I would have to start from total scratch, and there are some issues in the game model which don't work in real-life. For example, the hinge is sunk in on the game model, making it impossible to open in real life.

The 360 degree pots will allow the small knob, selection wheel, and left-most knob to rotate 360 degrees. The macro selection knob has fixed detent points, I have added two extra positions to allow for some other functions. And the radio knob obviously has its own limits. The catch with the 360 degree pots, is that some calibration will be required for the Macro Knob and Radio knobs after assembly, as the exact position of the pot may be off. The other knobs are all relative motion (rotating left/or right). Basically I will measure their current position and compare it to their position a few milliseconds earlier. If the value is increasing, your turning the knob one direction, decreasing the other direction.

@YenChih Lin, I can neither confirm, nor deny that Vault-Tec exists. All I know is I can only to connect to the internet when they keep the big-ass door down the hall open.
 
zapwizard I was just wondering if the selection wheel and button would be closer in size and if the selection wheel could continuously turn, like just without hitting a stop and need to be rotated the other way.
 
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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Voltaire Surge:
The selection wheel on the game model is huge. I suspect that the game model was adjusted for the wide angle perspective that the player camera has. The selection wheel is smaller on the Pip-Boy edition. When I tried making it match the game model it just looked wrong. So I am keeping mine the size I already had.

The selection wheel can continuously rotate. It will have a spring plunger which will provide 16 distinct detent positions (stops). The detent not only provides a satisfying click, it also helps with reading the position of the pot, as it prevents the reading from drifting too much.

The small front knob and left-most knobs will also rotate continuously, but with no detents.
 
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selection_knob_by_linkmaster101-d9kaz9h.png zapwizard i was actually refering to this area. does this continuously turn, i think you answered that. but will you make this part closer to in game size? the rest of the pipboy is on point without a whole remodeling.
 
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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Voltaire Surge, That is what I am referring to as the "Selection Knob". Yes, it can rotate continuously. I will look at resizing it a bit, I have already altered the proportions of the button and the mounting area surrounding it.
 
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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER



Remodeling the selection wheel kicked off something I wanted to do anyways. So this week I started from scratch. I re-modeled each major component using the game model as a guide. Each part is now very accurate when compared to the game model. This will make my design even more accurate than the Pip-Boy edition.
There is lots of clean up and tweaks to be done, such as placing screws. I then have all the interior to re-do.

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By far the hardest part to make 3D is the foam padding. Behind the padding I will have a hard structure. I don't know how the padding will be made yet, it could even be 3D printed and then molded in a expanding foam.

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The new game-accurate model actually has a bit more space behind the LCD, as the display is higher up and the arm-hole smaller than my old design.
Some areas lost some space, but I am confident that I can squeeze things in.
 

barry99705

New Member
Easiest way to make the padding would be to sew 3d-spacer mesh over foam, then either mechanically attach that to the hard inside part, or velcro it in place.
 

Rysjin7717

Well-Known Member
Great work on those adjustments this is going to be a great prop replica when finished and brought to life zapwizard.

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zapwizard

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
barry99705, Now that you say that, I think that a thin leather liner, with a soft foam padding underneath could be stitched onto a hard backer. Just like any normal upholstery job. The hard backer could even have preset holes for the threading. The hard backer could still be made in a way that encourages the shapes of the foam.

However I also still want a velcro safety strap, but perhaps there is a way to have that secured behind the padding with the velcro passing through a slot in the leather.
 
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barry99705

New Member
@barry99705, Now that you say that, I think that a thin leather liner, with a soft foam padding underneath could be stitched onto a hard backer. Just like any normal upholstery job. The hard backer could even have preset holes for the threading. The hard backer could still be made in a way that encourages the shapes of the foam.

However I also still want a velcro safety strap, but perhaps there is a way to have that secured behind the padding with the velcro passing through a slot in the leather.
That would work as well, but I'd worry about sweat. The stuff I mentioned is what they use on backpack straps and cushions for breathability.
 
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