DEC ANH Hero Blaster Kit Builds

Hey Ron,

Actually I used the circle cut from the screen protector to mask off the eventual mystery disk. As I was painting and not bluing, I just sanded off the area where the disk was going to be, applied the circle, painted over it, drilled the center hole through the hole produced by the compass in creating the circle, and removed the adhesive circle to produce the mystery disk. Does that make better sense?

-Drew


Makes perfect sense. I'm still thinking of bluing, as I like the look, but I'm open to painting. What kind of paint did you use... and did it leave any smell? Does painting leave any odd textures or is it pretty smooth? I only ask because I bought a replica prop off eBay. It's not screen accurate and I think it was painted. It has a bit of an odd smell.

My ulitmate goal is eye AND touch appeal. I don't want it to feel painted. I was really impressed by VFX Freak's build. I lack his skill and commitment, but using the DEC kit, I think I can get 75% there.

Again, thanks for answering my questions. REALLY appreciated.

-Ron
 
Hey Ron,

So far I've just used Rustoleum flat black enamel. 1 coat and then sanded smooth with 1000 grit. Then another coat and then rubbed it with a soft cloth for hours... the results of phase one are in post #353 above. I have polyurethane to coat it after I've taken it apart, sanded every area that needs it (which is a lot) and painted it flat again. Then many MANY more hours of loving soft cloth rubbing. :)

There was probably a week or two of outgassing for the smell. But it does eventually fade. Hope this helps, man.

Looking good, Coop! Looks like you went with paint as well. If I had bought the steel version or was putting it on an MGC I would have felt obligated to blue. With the horror stories with bluing aluminum I opted for the paint and have been thrilled with the results. I really didn't want a prop that I couldn't handle and weather through personal use and I've heard the bluing jobs on aluminum and pewter are very delicate.


Drew
 
Looking good, Coop! Looks like you went with paint as well. If I had bought the steel version or was putting it on an MGC I would have felt obligated to blue. With the horror stories with bluing aluminum I opted for the paint and have been thrilled with the results. I really didn't want a prop that I couldn't handle and weather through personal use and I've heard the bluing jobs on aluminum and pewter are very delicate.

Thanks! I tried and tried to get the Denix blued to a finish that I was satisfied with but that point never happened. I ended up painting the bull barrel, Denix frame, and scope mount/rings/knobs etc. I blued the scope and the flash hider (both steel and both came out very nice, IMO. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. I really should put a few pictures up here as a testament to the quality of DM's kit. If I can make it look good, anyone can! :lol
 
I think you could "blue" using the sticker as mask if you don't apply too much liquid at once. Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black is what most people use. The Denix is not made from aluminium but of a zinc alloy which has different chemical properties than steel or aluminium. Most types of "Gun Blue" cold-bluing liquids for steel would work also on the Denix (but not on aluminium), but in my experience not as good as Aluminum Black. These liquids contain acids, though, and the Denix's alloy is sensitive to acids, so don't overdo it or you could get pitting. You can also not "de-blue" Denix the same was as steel - you would have to sand away the black layer.
Bare metal of the Denix will oxidize and darken within a month or so to look more like aged steel.

There is also a trick to make paint look more like blued steel, by rubbing the painted surface with powdered graphite. You could buy jars of it, but you could just as well grind up some pencil leads.
I have experimented with graphite mixed with wax, and I have been pleased with the look but it has been too sticky. I need harder wax.
 
H0llywood, Coop & Darth,

Thanks for the advice. Lots to think about, but I guess I have a little time before the kits are sent out. Painting definitely sounds easier. I think I got bit by a romantic notion that bluing was the right way to go.

If I go the painting route, do you paint everything (flash hider, cross bar, scope, etc)? H0llywood, you mentioned a polyurethane coating. Which brand do you use? Is it sprayed or brushed on?

Hope i'm not being a pest. Just want to get it all right.

thanks
Ron
 
No bother at all, Ron! I painted everything, which is unusual. Most people blue the flash hider at the very least or use aging techniques because on the prop it is obviously a different color than the rest of the gun. I'm confident that this difference is an aged parkerized finish because the Germans loved to parkerize stuff during WWII and the flash hider is from an aircraft mounted machine gun. What the prop crew probably did was take off the beat up parkerized flash hider and blued scope, painted the prop with greebly on that eventually fell off forming the mystery disk, and put said flash hider and scope back on.

For me, I'm going for an as-issued DL-44, so I'm going with a unified color that I can age by playing with it like a middle-aged guy scratching a 37 year old itch. :)

I'm planning on using a MINWAX spray polyurethane once I have the parts fitted right and sound in. My theory was to use a flat paint with a poly top coat to create a semi-gloss finish but I found that hand polishing with a soft cloth will eventually have the same effect. I'll play around with it (snicker) until I get it right. Should take many happy years.

That wait on the run is torture but TOTALLY worth it. Read this in the meantime if you haven't:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=118186

It shows just how dedicated and awesome the members of this forum are and how much indebted to them we really are.
 
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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1432244477.574416.jpg

Finally got some AB for the the flash hider. I may do one more pass. I'm still hesitant to put on the sight greeblies, but I may do that this weekend. Always 99% done [emoji6]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The DEC site appears to be down. Any updates on the kits?
thanks,
Ron

Actually I just saw this post, I did not realize the site was down, it seems they want me to update the IP address.
the kits will be done by the end of next week.
 
This run will be finished in a few days, shipping next week, happy modeling :cheers

The pre-sale for the next run will be mid / end of July
 
Good to know about the next run. What will they be made from? (forgive my ignorance, just heard aluminium/steel/cast/machined etc all being mentioned!)
 
As I was lovingly gazing at my new most prized possession it occurred to me that this thread could serve as a shrine to dmachinist, kpax, scottjua and all the other superheroes of the RPF that put in an unimaginable amount of time and effort to make the childhood dream of owning a Han Solo blaster from Star Wars come true for so many of us.

Also, it could serve as inspiration to all the folks out there getting their box 'o goodies in the mail from DEC and looking at the weeks or months-long dedication and effort that will make that dream a reality for each of them. For many people (like me) this will be their first serious incursion into replica prop building. It couldn't be a better prop and there couldn't be a better forum to support them.

Keep in mind that each of these DL-44s will be an individual work of art and an expression of the creator's vision of the prop and reflection of their skill. Not everybody is blessed to be an artist and professional prop maker... so please be nice. :)

Here's my baby. :) Here she is in repose on display. I opted for a CostumeBase pleather gun belt, leather hoster and greeblies. Not screen accurate by any stretch, but since I was shooting (pun intended) for playability I prefer it over a stand.


IMG_1728.JPG


Here's the right-side view. Please excuse the unfocusable camera. I don't know what the problem is (probably me). Open the image in a new tab to see it full-sized:


IMG_1743.JPG


Like most folks I was only able to acquire a Denix as the base. Everything you have heard about these replica's softness is true, but it sort of makes the project more of a challenge at the same time. All those MGCers out there don't get to spend near as much time trying to make their replicas look somewhat like a broomhandle mauser as we Denixers do. :/

I opted for the DEC wood grips (love 'em). They come unfinished so you can choose your own stain and you have to Dremel out the Denix handle innards and drill a hole in the frame for the screw. You also have to sand down the angle where the grips meet the frame at the top. A Dremel and the know-how to use it are essential for this build. If you don't have or know how to use one you will by the end. Remember, the trick is not to take off too much. MUCH easier than trying to add material back. You will have many a tense moment and sigh of relief when you don't screw something up permanently. Somehow I made it through with only one Denix but that will not always be the case.

From this angle you can also see many of the small details that make the prop awesome. You have to widen the area between the grip and trigger guard for comfort. Taking out the trigger and sanding it down makes a huge difference but expect a WTF experience getting it back in. Fitting the bull barrel is an excellent exercise in when-is-enough-enough. You'll have to cut down the allen lug that holds the flash hider on, the screw that holds the grips on, this ugly bolt nub the replica comes with that the hammer rests on, the screws that hold the scope mount on and a plethora of casting flash and irregularities.

Here's the left side:

IMG_1720.JPG

As I'm infested with younglings I decided to go with as-issued instead of weathered and paint instead of blue. I wanted a prop with sound and lights in a holster that the kids could run around the house shooting at each other and weathering it for me and not worry about the finish. Here it is fresh from 3 coats of matte black with polishing in between and still tacky from 3 coats of polyurethane. I'll see how the poly likes some hand polishing and may add a few more coats. I'm still not 100% happy with the mystery disk but, as many of you will also ask yourselves, will I ever REALLY be 100% happy with it? :/

Rear view:

IMG_1721.JPG

Taking time with a hand file to even up the hammer grooves is painstaking but well worth the time. I also needed to sand down the back of the hammer because it would bite into the web of my hand when cocking using the bolt. Not sure yet what, if anything to do with the scope. Some sort of red dot setup would be awesome but of questionable practicality. Maybe a light-gathering fiber optic setup would be more reasonable. Hmm... I'm holding the brass endcaps in with a few drops of Elmer's glue just in case.

Top view:

IMG_1744.JPG

This is where some detail specificity and artistic interpretation come into play. I couldn't stand the funky notched deal on the rear sight hinge but I didn't feel the urge to replicate a blued ejector on the bolt. It just seemed incongruous to me for a blaster to have an ejector. Ditto with the gold finish on the sight adjustment knob. Sanding down the black finish with 1000 grit to expose the silver knurls works for me. Go figure.

Also, this is where a decision has to be made on the sight greeblies. I went with existent with angle-cut t-track and full-length pistons. But that's just my muse ;)

Front view:

IMG_1722.JPG

Here you can see that I left the inside of the flash hider silver and added a 10mm LED. To get lights and sound I used the innards from a new 2015 Disney "Rebel Blaster" and got a friend to drill out the barrel with his drill press. I had to buy a AAA holder and blue LED (actually 10 for $3 shipped... how do they DO that?) from China on fleabay and Dremel out a sound chamber in my beautiful DEC walnut grips but it was totally worth it. Here's a video of the result:


I just freakin' love it. :)

Anyway guys, I know there have been quite a few of these builds and an equal number of adventures associated with them. If it would be possible to start a discussion by those who have gone and are going through it, I think it would in a small way justify the herculean effort to make this a reality and inspire those that are just beginning.

Drew
 
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That looks great! And after it gets banged up a little, it'll look perfect.
And yes, it's a good time to reflect on all those who took time and effort to contribute. Many, but Deadbolt, Kpax and DEC certainly.
 
I know a lot of us have been using the perma or super glue chemicals and the aluminum black, but I found an alternative that I am eager to test. Those familiar with firearms and refinishing may know of DuraCoat. They make incredibly durable spray on finishes that have been very popular for a long time. They just introduced DuraBlue which is a spray on Bluing alternative that is available in both glossy and matte finishes. I'm going to order a can of it for test on the scope and Mauser body. I emailed the company and they said it can be used in steel, aluminum, and even pewter. Something to look into if anyone is having not great luck with the other chemicals.
 
I know a lot of us have been using the perma or super glue chemicals and the aluminum black, but I found an alternative that I am eager to test. Those familiar with firearms and refinishing may know of DuraCoat. They make incredibly durable spray on finishes that have been very popular for a long time. They just introduced DuraBlue which is a spray on Bluing alternative that is available in both glossy and matte finishes. I'm going to order a can of it for test on the scope and Mauser body. I emailed the company and they said it can be used in steel, aluminum, and even pewter. Something to look into if anyone is having not great luck with the other chemicals.

DuraCote is the absolute bomb! Use it on all my guns so they'll last until my grandchildren are dust. Eager to see the results of your experiment, man.
 
Will the next run be announced here, or on the page? I absolutely don't want to miss out on this. Is there a mailing list I can get in on? Can I camp out outside your shop? :lol
 
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