Creating the Perfect Obi Wan ANH Saber Assembly Adapter

[Boba Debt]

I just received a Serfrano Booster and I'm looking for a Grenade.

I would like to create an adapter that would go between those two parts that could be used to assemble the saber in an easy but strong way.

I am not real familiar with assembling an Obi saber so I AM LOOKING FOR INPUT AND SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO MAKE THIS PERFECT.

This is what I have so far

A - This section is the Adapter. Its threaded to match the booster so it can screw into it. You use a common 3/8" bolt "B" to secure the hand wheel to the grenade by going through a non-threaded hole in the adapter


Item C (depicted by the green section) is part of the adapter. It's the part of the original booster that I refer to as the ring of holes. When I had my real booster attached to my real clamp you could easily see these holes in the dips of the booster and it fit the clamp perfectly so I'm sure the real prop had it, I even think the end of the nail was in one of the holes.



Item D is a threaded adapter that is made for each specific grenade and grenade replica and it reduces the hole to fit a 3/8" bolt



This would be the best way since you could rotate the pieces for the correct alignment. With this design you could have threaded holes on the side of the adapter for the transistors. The disadvantage is that you would have to have threaded adapters for all the different grenades and grenade replicas available.





Does anyone have any additional info? or observations?

If we as a group could have it produced in the $25 - $35 price range how many people would be interested in it?






BTW: This is a thread posted to discuss the details and construction of this part.

If you are a Mod and if you move this thread to the Junk Yard I will hunt you down and kill you. Then I will make it my life goal to erase all evidence that your ancestors and your decedents ever existed, essentially I will erase your blood line from the history of the earth. I will exhaust every financial resource I have there will be no stopping me.


Ok, I'm just kidding, but seriously don't move this thread just because I said the part might cost between $25 and $35.


I am just giving everyone a ball park figure to accurately gauge the interest in this part. I probably won't even be the guy that has it made.

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

This is how I did it. It would probably look better if I had a custom machined metal piece instead of using found parts and elbow grease, but it worked.

When you're done, it looks like this:

 

[Boba Debt]

So your grenade has a through hole?

If so do all grenades have a through hole?

In your assembly did you attached the Emitter to the 3/8" rod?

If so how did you do that?

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

If you look at the 8th picture, you'll see an aluminum cylinder on top of the grenade stem. It's outside diameter of that piece is exactly the same as the inside diameter of the Balance Pipe. A few love taps with a mallet and the 2 pieces became one.

All grenades, either real or replica, have the ability for a rod to go through them. On real grenades, you can either unscrew the bottom plate or just unscrew the detonation cap.

 

[Boba Debt]

What do you mean by


have the ability for a rod to go through them.





Do you mean the owner could drill through them or that they all have hole in them already?

 

[Chingon]

What do you mean by


have the ability for a rod to go through them.





Do you mean the owner could drill through them or that they all have hole in them already?

The frag body of a real inert grenade is hollow. Most replicas are solid with a 3/4" hole through them.

 

[SaberFreak]

All you need is a spacer inside the clamp and a threaded rod long enough to go from the front to the end.

1. Machine a cylindrical aluminum spacer that fits inside the clamp (with the tabs filed down) about 1/4 inch shorter then the clamp and a hole through it that would allow the threaded rod to go through.

2. Attach a large hex nut larger in diameter then the hole in the booster on one end of the threaded rod.

3. Insert the rod from the back of the booster, through the spacer with the clamp on it, then through the grenade, and finally attach to the emitter (with adapter or butterfly nut, depending on which emitter you have.

4. Attach handwheel to back of booster. If you're using a real handwheel, or a replica based on a real handwheel, it should fit snugly into the protruding part of the booster.

This is exactly how I now assembled mine, after a rather complicated start.

 

[Boba Debt]

The more I think about this the more I think that the part that goes into the booster doesn't have to be threaded, it could just be a slip fit.

 

[Boba Debt]

Double Post

 

[Boba Debt]

The frag body of a real inert grenade is hollow. Most replicas are solid with a 3/4" hole through them.

Do all grenades, real and replica, have a hole through the entire part?

If so, could a 3/8" bolt slide through without catching.

If it can then that makes the center adapter very simple and now you just have to machine a neck adapter. as indicated by the "A"

The neck adapter would have an internal 3/8" thread and it would be what the 3/8" bolt screws into.

It would also have an outside diameter that would make attaching the emitter easy

How do most people attach the emitter?



In my method the adapter would be a press fit, but for it to work for everyone, all emitters would have to have the same size internal hole or different adapters would have to be made


I have an inaccurate real Dewert interconnect and the ID of my part is .700"

What does everyone else have?

 

[Lan-Ed-Tul]

i have a aluminum machined sacer under my clamp, that the gear piece settles into on that end, and my grenades bottom is unscrewed, left off and the open end fits into the other end of spacer settled into a machined out area.

the bolt runs all way through from cap, to gear, to spacer to grenade and on up to the emitter.

i didnt use a nail or nuttin like that like i seen on other sabers, but i did drill a hole in the lever and screwed it down into the clamp, to secure it from poppin open on me.

 

[Serafino]

Great thread. ATL Kenobi has some past threads about his construction, and he had some great ideas about attaching the emitter, I recall o-rings expanded by pressure from tightened nuts or something like that? I've no time to hunt the thread(s) down at the moment but perhaps one of you does.

 

[Boba Debt]

Serafino


I know you're working on an emitter replica and I read through your thread.

I guess your part will be identical to the real thing so we still have to figure out the best way to attach this to the neck of the grenade.

BTW, can you tell me the ID of a real, correct balance pipe in thousandths of an inch?

Thanks

 

[Serafino]

Yeah I'll get that to you later today.

 

[Boba Debt]

Today ended yesterday

Yeah I'll get that to you later today.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

Today ended yesterday

the ID is bewteen 1.018-1.020

-best

Dan

 

[Serafino]

Thanks Dan, dust is flying these days.

 

[franz bolo]

This is from an old tutorial I did a couple years ago.

FB

 

[Boba Debt]

That's very similar to my idea but if you have a Serfrano Booster you will need a more substantial adapter under the clamp.

His replica doesn't have the nut/ring of holes. The ring of holes are 1.5" in diameter and the stabilize the bottom of the clamp.

Without that part the clamp just lays on top of the booster.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

here is a pic that might help

Dan