Clear Resin Casting - Possible At Home and Without Pressure Pot?

OK. Did you only mix say 1.5% CAT instead of the 2 or 3%. I've done this myself and it takes forever to go off...

Heavens, no. 3% of CAT with the off-shelf-stuff is still too low. I mix almost 4-5% just for it to cure properly; anything less and it will cure to a semi-solid. I will say that the 24 hr cure time, despite being a handicap, may also be an advantage because almost all of my casts come out fairly bubble-free. It just takes a whole day to do it.:p
 
I don't even bother with polyester anymore. For the price, it smells, it remains tacky for several days and umm, yeah. There are polyesters out there for not much more than are much easier to work and they cure perfectly with no shrinkage. I do find some epoxies shrink if the part is deep.

If you are doing a lot of this, I think you need a degas chamber at a minimum. A pressure pot is just creme on the cake.

 
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In your opinion, what is the best kind of clear, rigid resin, which also accepts dyes?

The rigid version of the flexible I've used in these videos will require both a vacuum chamber and a pressure pot to get perfect castings. It is really temperamental stuff and I was not impressed with how my casts came out given the price. Even though I degassed, bubbles formed over night and as a result, the only way I'd buy that stuff again is when I get a pressure pot that can take at least 80PSI over night.

There are other alternatives like epoxy which give a good result and are much easier to use.

If you have access to a chamber, awesome. If not, you can still get good results with these by making smaller pours and building up. By applying a heat gun to the pour, you can pop all the bubbles as they raise to the surface. if the pour is too deep, then they will be visible in the final cast part after curing.

The only negatives about epoxies is -

1. They do produce a lot of heat, so they can over time burn out your soft silicone molds. I use a high shore silicone and use epoxy all the time.
2. They are prone to some shrinkage, so you may need to top up the mold prior to demolding. This is just a time thing and shrinkage does not always happen.

A plus for all clears is that clear resins take colour better than those products that turn white when they cure. With clears like polyurethane or epoxy, you don't lose any colour intensity. In other words, black tinted resin comes out black once cured, not dark grey.
 
The rigid version of the flexible I've used in these videos will require both a vacuum chamber and a pressure pot to get perfect castings. It is really temperamental stuff and I was not impressed with how my casts came out given the price. Even though I degassed, bubbles formed over night and as a result, the only way I'd buy that stuff again is when I get a pressure pot that can take at least 80PSI over night.

There are other alternatives like epoxy which give a good result and are much easier to use.

If you have access to a chamber, awesome. If not, you can still get good results with these by making smaller pours and building up. By applying a heat gun to the pour, you can pop all the bubbles as they raise to the surface. if the pour is too deep, then they will be visible in the final cast part after curing.

The only negatives about epoxies is -

1. They do produce a lot of heat, so they can over time burn out your soft silicone molds. I use a high shore silicone and use epoxy all the time.
2. They are prone to some shrinkage, so you may need to top up the mold prior to demolding. This is just a time thing and shrinkage does not always happen.

A plus for all clears is that clear resins take colour better than those products that turn white when they cure. With clears like polyurethane or epoxy, you don't lose any colour intensity. In other words, black tinted resin comes out black once cured, not dark grey.

Thanks for the info, but there's one more drawback. I've poured resin in layers before, and the heat expands the mold, such that when you pour the next layer, it is visibly offset. This is easy to sand down in opaque resins; but clear resins are often used for their glossy texture, which would be ruined by sanding. I'm not even sure clear resins are sandable. I imagine they gum up easily.
 
You can pollish a clear the same as you can with perspex. It takes time and patients.

I have never seen a mold swell from pouring layers. There simply is not enough hydraulic pressure if a layer is between 3mn (1/8") and 6mm (1/4").

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You can pollish a clear the same as you can with perspex. It takes time and patients.

I have never seen a mold swell from pouring layers. There simply is not enough hydraulic pressure if a layer is between 3mn (1/8") and 6mm (1/4").

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The offset resin, or bowing, is not visible when light hits it from above, nor is it tactile. It's only detectable when light hits it at a steep angle, because the bowing creates visible shadows.
cPtlSSG.jpg
 
The offset resin, or bowing, is not visible when light hits it from above, nor is it tactile. It's only detectable when light hits it at a steep angle, because the bowing creates visible shadows.
http://i.imgur.com/cPtlSSG.jpg

If you are pouring into an open back mold (1 piece) and the mold is level, unless your resin shrinks, I can't see why this effect would occur. The resins I use all self level. If anything, the polyurethanes form a slight positive meniscus due to the surface tension of the resin in a liquid state. Once it goes from gel to a solid, that shape is there to stay. Epoxy seems to do a negative meniscus, possibly due to shrinkage.

In both cases, the main surface is level.

I've used TAP Clear-Lite casting resin with good results. There's no degassing required. I used it to make some TOS wall comm red alert lenses.

Damn, they look good! Polyurethane, elastomer, epoxy, polyester or something else?
 
...I'm not even sure clear resins are sandable. I imagine they gum up easily.

I do it quite regularly and, with the stuff I use, it tends to sand pretty easily. Sometimes it's too easy and I wind up over-sanding if I get distracted. It does fog the surface up though but get the finish fine enough, some clear-coat will just make it disappear and bring back that luster.
 
I do it quite regularly and, with the stuff I use, it tends to sand pretty easily. Sometimes it's too easy and I wind up over-sanding if I get distracted. It does fog the surface up though but get the finish fine enough, some clear-coat will just make it disappear and bring back that luster.

That is where epoxy can really come in handy as well. It forms a very thin layer over the part giving a smooth but shiny finish without the need to polish.

A lot of guys that 3D print use this now to rid the print lines.
 
Epoxy is only handy for me for very few things. I tend to avoid casting with it because I don't have as much control with it to get the results I look for.
 
If you are pouring into an open back mold (1 piece) and the mold is level, unless your resin shrinks, I can't see why this effect would occur. The resins I use all self level. If anything, the polyurethanes form a slight positive meniscus due to the surface tension of the resin in a liquid state. Once it goes from gel to a solid, that shape is there to stay. Epoxy seems to do a negative meniscus, possibly due to shrinkage.

In both cases, the main surface is level.



Damn, they look good! Polyurethane, elastomer, epoxy, polyester or something else?

Thanks... It's polyester.
 
Not sure if it will work the same with a cast as with acrylic, but you can also flame polish. It will need a blowtorch rather than just a match or lighter but it will leave a flawless finish without too much tedious polishing.
 
Not sure if it will work the same with a cast as with acrylic, but you can also flame polish. It will need a blowtorch rather than just a match or lighter but it will leave a flawless finish without too much tedious polishing.

I would not be hitting any polyester, polyurethane or epoxy with flame. It is likely to catch fire.

I'm sure you have all seen the video on making acrylic trophies. Question is, where does one buy that stuff?


This stuff would be rocking to get and use.
 
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I just want that giant degassing chamber!!! So awesome!

In the video? That is actually pressure and heat combined.

I'd like to see how different the result came out if that stuff was degassed first.

Done in small layers, epoxy does give similar results to what is shown in the video.
 
...I'm sure you have all seen the video on making acrylic trophies. Question is, where does one buy that stuff?
...

I wish to hell I knew. I've been searching for years but all I get is either polyester resin or acrylic stock, no cast-able acrylic liquid.
 
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