BTTF Futaba Delorean Remote Project

[DB537]

I ordered the knob and the switches for the unibox today.

The 2 silver push buttons are some vintage buttons I found on eBay.
The toggle switches are Futaba parts from Tower Hobbies. Since I don't know exactly what the original parts were, and there's no really good reference for them, I tried to match the screen caps as closely as possible.

I also got a 4 pack of 9V Duracells, and some gray paint for the box.

 

[DB537]

I have some MOLEX switches on the way. The lenses will have to be changed out because they don't say STOP. They are red though.

I'm going to paint the Unibox this weekend. If I have everything by then, I will also try to add the switches to the box and the remote. What would be the best way to attach the Molex and the toggle switch on the left side of the remote?

 

[Pitbull]

Well I been trying to get my pieces put together for the time being until the electronics get going.Here's where I'm at so far.

 

[DB537]

The electronics are going to be the tough part for me. I have no experience at all with that sort of thing. I have a circuit board coming from the guy who sold the remotes, but I don't know how I'm going to make it work. :facepalm

I will also have to figure out a clean way to remove the extra top knobs since I have the helicopter version of the remote.

Most of the parts for mine are either here or shipping to me now, except for the display parts, and the STOP lens.

Is your STOP an original Mike? How did you attach your Molex and the red switch to the remote?

 

[Pitbull]

Hey db I got the molex from Gary Weaver a long time ago and I used a 30 second clear epoxy for the switch and mole attachment.I also used the epoxy to glue the enclosure to the back of the remote also.

-Mike



Also any chance your gonna get those labels out?

The electronics are going to be the tough part for me. I have no experience at all with that sort of thing. I have a circuit board coming from the guy who sold the remotes, but I don't know how I'm going to make it work. :facepalm

I will also have to figure out a clean way to remove the extra top knobs since I have the helicopter version of the remote.

Most of the parts for mine are either here or shipping to me now, except for the display parts, and the STOP lens.

Is your STOP an original Mike? How did you attach your Molex and the red switch to the remote?

 

[deathscythe]

Lookin' good Pitbull!

Is there any chance to get a parts breakdown of this thing?
I'm having trouble finding anything related to the remote when I search for "MOLEX" with or without including either the word switch, or switches.

I have been e-mailing Unibox over the last week or two to see about having some grey 140's special ordered in the smooth screen printing finish. Finally, the representative asked me what it's going to be used for. She watched the film, and got back to me with the info that the portion of the box with the special smooth side is not visible as mounted on the remote.
The regular grey 140's are the way to go!

-Alex

 

[Pitbull]

Hey alex there was a big thread on this remote a while back.There should be a breakdown on how to get the parts excluding the molex and stanly displays (That's the hardest part).My enclosure is the grey unibox 140 it's spot on.Check this thread out here

http://www.therpf.com/f9/bttf-remote-control-2123/

-Mike

Lookin' good Pitbull!

Is there any chance to get a parts breakdown of this thing?
I'm having trouble finding anything related to the remote when I search for "MOLEX" with or without including either the word switch, or switches.

I have been e-mailing Unibox over the last week or two to see about having some grey 140's special ordered in the smooth screen printing finish. Finally, the representative asked me what it's going to be used for. She watched the film, and got back to me with the info that the portion of the box with the special smooth side is not visible as mounted on the remote.
The regular grey 140's are the way to go!

-Alex

 

[Pitbull]

ok so I got the stop molex and on/off switch to turn on/off at the same time :lol.I can check that off my list.Now all I need is the stanly displays/backplate a circuit board to have it climb to 88 and the wires :cool.After that my controllers finished.

Can anyone help with the stanly 3 segments and backplate?.I'll even take the red color display instead of orange I just want to complete this bad boy?

 

[Gary Weaver II]

Mike, I got your e-mail. I have every intention of getting you taken care of along with anyone else working on the Futaba Project. The only trick is that I need to get the time to do it. It will have to be AFTER my current run of Pepsi Perfects is done.

Here is what I hope to be able to supply to anyone wanting to work on the Futaba.

Molex with Cast "STOP" lens
Stanley Display with three lenses, Aluminum Backplate, 3 rear socket replicas, and a bare circuit board for wiring up your mircoled's or GOW bulbs.

I simply have not had the time to finalize my files for the backplate. I'll try to offer both an A and H style backplate since the knobs on the top of the H will affect the plate. I'm also trying to work out the rear socket to better simulate the real thing. It's a real pain in the arse.

I promise to announce more as soon as I can.

-Gary

 

[Pitbull]

You are an Angel.........Earth Angel that is :love


-Mike

Mike, I got your e-mail. I have every intention of getting you taken care of along with anyone else working on the Futaba Project. The only trick is that I need to get the time to do it. It will have to be AFTER my current run of Pepsi Perfects is done.

Here is what I hope to be able to supply to anyone wanting to work on the Futaba.

Molex with Cast "STOP" lens
Stanley Display with three lenses, Aluminum Backplate, 3 rear socket replicas, and a bare circuit board for wiring up your mircoled's or GOW bulbs.

I simply have not had the time to finalize my files for the backplate. I'll try to offer both an A and H style backplate since the knobs on the top of the H will affect the plate. I'm also trying to work out the rear socket to better simulate the real thing. It's a real pain in the arse.

I promise to announce more as soon as I can.

-Gary

 

[TomVDJ]

Gary, is there a chance you offer a "build-up" for these remotes? Frankly: I'm not handy enough to do it myself, and I have no idea where to find all the parts. There's a remote on it's way to me, but the transformation to a Doc remote is way over my head. :-(

 

[DB537]

Hey db I got the molex from Gary Weaver a long time ago and I used a 30 second clear epoxy for the switch and mole attachment.I also used the epoxy to glue the enclosure to the back of the remote also.

-Mike



Also any chance your gonna get those labels out?

Thanks, I will try that exopy.

I will check with the local printing company and see about the Futaba labels. I'm going to try to get the PCM label, and also the entire front label printed. I only have a partial roll of the red rotex tape right now, but when I get some more rolls I'm going to make labels for anyone that needs them for one of these remotes.

 

[DB537]

Mike, I got your e-mail. I have every intention of getting you taken care of along with anyone else working on the Futaba Project. The only trick is that I need to get the time to do it. It will have to be AFTER my current run of Pepsi Perfects is done.

Here is what I hope to be able to supply to anyone wanting to work on the Futaba.

Molex with Cast "STOP" lens
Stanley Display with three lenses, Aluminum Backplate, 3 rear socket replicas, and a bare circuit board for wiring up your mircoled's or GOW bulbs.

I simply have not had the time to finalize my files for the backplate. I'll try to offer both an A and H style backplate since the knobs on the top of the H will affect the plate. I'm also trying to work out the rear socket to better simulate the real thing. It's a real pain in the arse.

I promise to announce more as soon as I can.

-Gary

I'm definitely in for 2 sets of the parts. Possibly a 3rd set because someone contacted me recently about modifying their remote. I'm in no hurry at all. I have a couple of other projects I'm working on as well. :cool

I have 'H' remotes, but I'm going to remove the knobs and fill in the holes so they can have the accurate 'A' style back plates.

 

[Garthok]

Thanks, I will try that exopy.

I will check with the local printing company and see about the Futaba labels. I'm going to try to get the PCM label, and also the entire front label printed. I only have a partial roll of the red rotex tape right now, but when I get some more rolls I'm going to make labels for anyone that needs them for one of these remotes.

I still haven't received the red rotex tape I ordered yet, but the minute I do I will ship several rolls to you as promised. I will let you know when it arrives.

 

[Pitbull]

So moving along I finally had 30 minutes to breath without changing a diaper,taking out the trash and spending time with the fam :lol.

I basically want to get all the little stuff out of the way before I really try to trackle these segment displays.Here's a pic of the unibox finished with the switches.One of the push switches will be wired to a Speaker playing a soundclip from the delorean remote scene but that will come later.Here's a few pics of my progress.

 

[DB537]

What kind of switch did you use for the on/off?

 

[Pitbull]

Just a regular on/off switch found at radio shack

 

[deathscythe]

Thanks for the link to the other thread Pitbull.
I read through it, but the links for where to find a lot of the parts are no good any more.
Does anyone know where to find the accurate knob for the back of the box? Radio shack has one that looks exactly the same, but it is too big: 1 1/4"...

Gary: I will DEFINITELY be asking you for a set of display segments and a stop button/light!!!

-Alex

 

[Pitbull]

pm sent Alex

 

[Jedifyfe]

Here is what I hope to be able to supply to anyone wanting to work on the Futaba.

Molex with Cast "STOP" lens
Stanley Display with three lenses, Aluminum Backplate, 3 rear socket replicas, and a bare circuit board for wiring up your mircoled's or GOW bulbs.-Gary

Gary...you are my hero....again!