Been thinking about this too. I'm going to try a black primer on the clear parts as a test, and see how that goes - doubt I'll actually use them for anything. I'm also thinking the way to go with this may be to paint small sub-assemblies, like, say the hangar bay, first and then assemble. It just seems like it's going to be soooooooo fiddly trying to get into all those nooks and crannies if I build first and then paint. Only real worry is just how tight some of these tolerances are.My lighted ISD arrived also. Not very impressed with that included booklet- more like a couple of small pages with postage stamp photos.
Not sure which direction I am going to take this kit, watching other peoples build ups to look at options. Right no wI am inclined to give the clear pieces a try, but I am going to paint them on the sprues and see how they look before assembling anything so if it looks like crap or detail gets too blurred I have the standard pieces for backup.
Ok, I'm pretty sure USA Gundam survived the hurricane soooo.........c'mon, guys! You can do eeeet.......
Right no wI am inclined to give the clear pieces a try, but I am going to paint them on the sprues and see how they look before assembling anything so if it looks like crap or detail gets too blurred I have the standard pieces for backup.
I'm also thinking the way to go with this may be to paint small sub-assemblies, like, say the hangar bay, first and then assemble. It just seems like it's going to be soooooooo fiddly trying to get into all those nooks and crannies if I build first and then paint. Only real worry is just how tight some of these tolerances are.
According to an email they sent out last Friday, they're supposed to arrive this week
Ah, thanks! Must've missed that email.
I actually saw a couple builds in Japan that showcase that exact problem and I am worried about it.
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Just got my lighting version of the kit and was test fitting... yea i noticed the warping right away. Will try removing the front trench tabs as suggested. The top and bottom parts of the main hull + the trenches are all straight until the tabs are involved. Im glad you guys brought this up - thought it was just me. This kit has AMAZING detail that I have been waiting for since I built one of those really off key 1990s ertil kits back in the day.
Side note the lighting kit comes with almost enough parts to build a separate bridge tower section and main docking bay.
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My kit has no warping issue that I can see-
After looking over the lighted kit better I think going with the nonlighted edition is a great move. The casting of the window holes in the opaque plastic is exceptional and should work well with a home brew lighting system. The other perk- the 'special' guide they included, is very disappointing.
I have a number of projects still in front of this kit awaiting attention, I am going to relax and watch other builds to help guide mine later. The only reason I preordered it was the first run perks which will not be available later but I do find them not quite what I had hoped.
The kit is fantastic through- the level of detail Bandai has managed is stunning. I was happy with the Zvezda but it looks like it was made from Legos compared to the Bandai kit.
Do the pre-cast window holes require fibre optics, or will the diffusers (which are obviously coming with the non-LED kit as well) with some LEDs behind them work well with the holes?
The holes Bandai has done are already 0.25mm if I remember correctly. I briefly thought about drilling my own, but then remembered I've been drilling .25mm on my big Z, and THOSE were a pain in the rump because of how hair-fine the bits are. I can't imagine trying to go even smaller for the Bandai. That said, all the luck in the world to youI might be insane, and may not eventually go through with it, but I've thought about filling the kit supplied window holes because they are far too large. I thought about taking a mini drill and then putting in my own smaller windows. We'll see.
The holes Bandai has done are already 0.25mm if I remember correctly. I briefly thought about drilling my own, but then remembered I've been drilling .25mm on my big Z, and THOSE were a pain in the rump because of how hair-fine the bits are. I can't imagine trying to go even smaller for the Bandai. That said, all the luck in the world to you
So is it essentially the tabs that warp the front part of the hull then? And removing them definitely gets rid of the issue. Just trying to prepare myself for when mine arrives.
The clear parts make it easier to give a light effect for an area with a spotlight on it?
A technique I believe called
essentially you put the LED on the inside right against the area, sand a bit of you light blocking away and the LED makes the plastic shine like there is a spotlight on it.
This is not my pic, but it gives the idea
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