gt350pony66
Master Member
Many thanks! Yes, in my Hoth Echo Base diorama thread. I thought you scribed it? I'll past a link. the PG was probably the last% pages? I think
Bandai 1/72 PG Millennium Falcon (also the Revell Germany rebox)
- Thread starter Jaitea
- Start date
Many thanks! Yes, in my Hoth Echo Base diorama thread. I thought you scribed it? I'll past a link. the PG was probably the last% pages? I think
gt350pony66
Master Member
I'm having issues with the laptop. It's titled, "1/72 Hoth Echo Base Hangar diorama"
But the extra gear bays weren't too difficult. You just need to refer back to Jaitea's images he posted in this thread to map out and mark where they go. After that, easy stuff, well I think it was anyway. The most challenging part was actually scratching the thin filler panels that reach over to the new maintenance pits, but that was just patience and time consuming. As far as I know, Korban44 and I are the only ones who have posted the conversion, though I hope a lot of guys are doing it. Tony/308 bits and Age of Plastic made it all possible with their brilliantly designed conversion parts on Shapeways
gt350pony66
Master Member
krap! within the last 5 pages or so...
gt350pony66
Master Member
I think a couple of the guys had a line on that...I know Korban got something so he could print some but I don't know that he ever did. I'd check with him though
GMan68
Active Member
Re: Bandai 1/72 Millennium Falcon
Thanks for the compliment! I know you've asked a coupe times how people are going about painting. Here is my 2 cents.
-Black automotive primer
-Tamiya AS-20 Insignia White base coat
-I start by airbrushing the obvious grey and red panels (I mixed my own colors)
-liquid latex mask for paint chipping.
-I'll tone down the reds a little by going back over with my base coat color through the airbrush very lightly. You can see where ILM did this also on the 5ft. (See photo)
-For the various other colored panels I used oils. I find if I thin them enough I can get the subtle translucent feel I'm looking for. (See photo) I seal the oils with clear coat or it will be until July until it's dry. The biggest mistake I see is when some of these subtle panels are painted too heavy. The panels start to look more like a chess board if you're not careful. If you accidentally go too heavy you can lightly hit them with your base coat to tone them down.
-I then did all the little black and orange tick marks with a fine art pen.
-I use various techniques for the steaks. For the dark ones I use the post-it note method with the airbrush and extremely thinned Tamiya Smoke. This leaves the steaks pretty sharp more like the 32inch, so I soften them up by lightly going back over them with the Tamiya weathering kit. (See photo) I also use them to make lighter steaks. Look at the reference there are dark and there are really light streaks. I really like this effect and try to emulate this. There are some very small oil streaks on the top of the hull that I used the art pen to achieve
-I use oils for the variations of dark and orangish rusts along the hull and side walls. Same color but based on thickness changes the color. I like doing this because rust isn't just one shade.
-I hit it with the dremel for extra scratches and chips. There are reference where you can see black under the paint. If I accidentally go through the primer layer I just take the art pen or oils and color it black in the groove.
- The 1gazillion decals is what I hated worst. Some I can't even see.
- sealed it all with a clear coat.
Would love to try the ArchiveX paints someday. Just can't afford them right now.
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Kokkari, beautiful work! Exactly the subtlety I am hoping I can pull off on mine. Can I ask, did you prime the maintenance pits before assembly or just whack the whole thing together and prime as one? I’ve already installed one set (and glued it) and now I’m worried I won’t be able to paint it properly.
Thanks! The only thing I painted before I assembled was the cockpit interior. I primed and painted the whole thing as one whole piece. That is my approach with ILM style paint work. Pretty sure that's the way they went about it based on the photo evidence. But to each their own! If it helps you sleep better at night knowing that every nook of the maintenance bays got hit with some paint and the gun turret interior is completely detailed, then more power to you. You are more of a perfectionist than me LOL
GMan68
Active Member
Here I go again, Lab, being all needy and asking more questions. I'm curious how you routed the wiring out of the falcon? I'm thinking of using one of these Panavise mounts since it has a hole in it for cabling. Hopefully, it will be robust enough as it is hollow, as opposed to the usual ones which are solid shaft. I'll just run the wiring out down by the 1/4-20 mount and into the hole..
PANAVISE6
GMan68
Active Member
Is this really a Panavise? Because all of theirs look like 1/4-20 camera fittings, whereas this one looks like something else. M8 thread maybe?
GMan68
Active Member
And because I might as well make it four posts in a row, has anyone used Mission Models Paints for their bird? Apparently, it is amazing acrylic to airbrush. Durable and easy to use without all the issues acrylics typically have in an airbrush. I would be keen to hear what colours anyone might have used.
Here goes.
DropMeFiles – free one-click file sharing service
As to the wiring, the wires just goes through the gun turret window and that's it. The shafts I use to mount the Falcon are not hollow, so the wires are attached to the back side of the shafts so that they are hidden when seen from the "front" side of the display.
GMan68
Active Member
Thanks, Lab! Very much appreciated.
For the life of me, I can't find that particular model of Panavise you used. A 1/4-20 thread seems very small to hold the Falcon up, but beyond that, all of the units I can find have the knurled ring for locking onto the model, not the hex bolt as per your photo.
For the life of me, I can't find that particular model of Panavise you used. A 1/4-20 thread seems very small to hold the Falcon up, but beyond that, all of the units I can find have the knurled ring for locking onto the model, not the hex bolt as per your photo.
Made another photo based off of one of the ILM Art Contest entries from a few years back:
Mine has a gap. I flexed the edges of the saucer to eliminate that part of the gap, but I left it between the "jaws" and the back of the "mouth" References suggest there is a gap there, you can even see electrical wires through it.
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