ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found

wanted to start my own build today but ran into a problem...

Since the threaded rods for the thumbscrews are not metric, I couldn't tap the holes nor do I have a matching nut to secure the screw that goes into the mag well. :(

What is the size of these ...1/4" ?..

Need to find a tap and nuts here in germany.

Markus
 
I didn't use a nut. I just tapped and used the thumbscrew as pressure to hold it tight. I also had to shave mine exactly flush inside to acccommodate my sound board and battery and speaker solution.

I want to say 1/4 -20 is the sae thread. Can you guys confirm? Dmachinist confirmed in the other thread I think.
 
the wall of my real C 96s mag well is pretty thin so tapping doesn't seem to be a sturdy option...attaching the screw to the rear shouldn't be a problem

Markus
 
If it´s regarding accuracy, i would still bet for metric M6.

But i understand the use of imperial for the convenience of the most buyers.
 
I believe they are 1/4/20, but you can replace with metric.

We chose the 1/4 -20 because the 'checknut" thumb-nuts were a nicer style.

May be easier than finding a 1/4-20 tap.

The mag wells are thin which is why I think they silver soldiered or welded the "washer" over the threaded rod for added support. There is damage seen under the washer nut in the preproduction pics.

You can use second checknut as the front washer and epoxy it to the mag well.
 
If you tap the mag well with a center punch, it will dent more than the effect you will be going for. Don't ask me how I know. :)

I ordered my tap from fleaBay for under a dollar.
 
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I just stripped apart my Mauser and that magwell wall really IS thin! I think I'll use Kpax's idea of silver soldering a checknut on there. Does it make sense to file down the nut to fit the contour of the magwell or would a wedge-shaped washer work better?
 
Why not just use a regular nut on the inside with no soldering? It's not like you will be storing bullets in there. :)
 
Not sure if you will find a wedge shaped washer to fit the angle of the magwell.

A belt sander would make fast work of it... but a file will do. Just make sure the rod is perpendicular with the frame.

Anything but live fire is good to use a thin nut inside the magwell too
 
...believe it or not, there are several members making real live fire versions!

Can't wait to see the videos! Please keep eyes open and aim at target... not at ceiling or birds like Han!:D
 
...believe it or not, there are several members making real live fire versions!

Can't wait to see the videos! Please keep eyes open and aim at target... not at ceiling or birds like Han!:D

Sound advice!

If anyone has any recommendations for a gunsmith in the Los Angeles area, I'm looking. I want to make sure I end up with a functioning weapon that isn't a danger to shoot. Luckily, my Mauser was recently rebuilt by a gunsmith in Illinois before I bought it in an auction, so it's in good condition and safe to fire.

That is until I cut off the barrel, add a bunch of steel to the end of it, and torque the thin frame with a steel scope and mount.:unsure

However, the guys at Bapty made it work, so it's got to be possible without too much trouble, or they would have done something else.
 
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