I got jhartman's old Denix when he upgraded. He'd already done a lot of work, but I've continued in this vein. It's lovely to see what others are doing with these. One of the main things I saw to tackle was reshaping the breech:
ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
- Thread starter deadbolt
- Start date
That is my beater denix. You can see all sorts of “experiments” already done to it
As far as he curve, ya I can see what u mean. This was my first attempt and I went all weed waker with the dremel. Any suggestions or pointers on how best to duplicate that line? How did u get urs so predominant??
More or less I just went slow, but what I used were a couple packs of some half-round needle files. Most of the work I've done to the Denix had been done by hand; I don't have things like a lathe or a mill, so the slow removal of excessive Zamak is how I've made all my progress. I'm not sure how else to describe it XD
Keep the WIP pics coming everyone; I love them! ^^
Hopefully I'll finish up some work on my Denix tonight too; I've been feeling tired ever since my bloodwork was done today (had to fill up eight of those vials, aagh DX). Still not stopping me from grinding away at this!
Hopefully I'll finish up some work on my Denix tonight too; I've been feeling tired ever since my bloodwork was done today (had to fill up eight of those vials, aagh DX). Still not stopping me from grinding away at this!
Ok using some of those same file tools I had around the house I wanted to see if I could correct what I’ve done so far. Get that distinctive line in there. It’s actually looks pretty good in person but it’s hard to catch the light properly. I already went to deep with the dremel but I’ll retry on the other side to get it more in line..
That didn’t take very long and it came pretty ok. Mostly just using a dremel again. It’s hard only cause in the end I would want it to be as symmetrical as possible. True test comes when I move onto a real denix I guess (not beater)..
Definitely looks a LOT better than before! I'm sure it'd be quicker using a dremel, though I went slow and steady with only files at my disposal - though either way, it definitly helps to de-Denix these things a lot! There's also one other bevel you might want to try too; on the back of the lower reciever where your thumb and index finger hold it, and just above the "back" of the grip. Rounding this area out helps a lot with the grip, as the Denix is quite square on this spot.
I've talked a lot of trash about the quality of the Denix (and don't get me wrong, most of it is well deserved), but in most spots the places that the Denix is inaccurate is because it has too much material, so those can be corrected by sanding and removing soft metal. So it's almost like how a sculptor sees their finished work in a raw chunk of stone; within the Denix one can see a Mauser
I've talked a lot of trash about the quality of the Denix (and don't get me wrong, most of it is well deserved), but in most spots the places that the Denix is inaccurate is because it has too much material, so those can be corrected by sanding and removing soft metal. So it's almost like how a sculptor sees their finished work in a raw chunk of stone; within the Denix one can see a Mauser
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Are u talking about this area?
Yes; that's the bevel I was referring to - the Denix (at least the old one, I haven't bought one of the "newer" ones yet), is entirely square in those spots, so rounding the back off a bit helps a bit in making it more comfortable and in improving its accuracy
Not too much new to talk about, though I went ahead and attacked my lower receiver with some Blueing compounds (BC Super Blue). The end result is a very uniform dull grey; almost a parkerized finish. I'm not sure how much I like it, as I think Aluminum Black has given me better results in the past (more of a Blue/Black, at least if my old scrap Denix is anything to go by).
Although once I beat up the finish I think I'll also paint the whole thing overtop the bluing anyways (to follow the Han ANH variant); so it might not matter too much in the end
I'll do some cleanup to the spots I added the JB Weld to, as they're no longer perfectly flush with the rest of the surface due to the BC compounds eating very slightly at the bare metal. Once I sand them and paint the whole things those spots will disappear
Although once I beat up the finish I think I'll also paint the whole thing overtop the bluing anyways (to follow the Han ANH variant); so it might not matter too much in the end
I'll do some cleanup to the spots I added the JB Weld to, as they're no longer perfectly flush with the rest of the surface due to the BC compounds eating very slightly at the bare metal. Once I sand them and paint the whole things those spots will disappear
Just stumbled across something Vanitas you should also consider doing for ur denix upgrade. You can slide the whole top forward about 100 thousands of an inch so it’s more in line to an actual Mauser. Trigger and hammer still functions as it should as well.
It’s quite simple really and I discovered it by mistake honestly. You just need to cut these two parts (1st&2nd pic) so it fits. As you can see it now lines up perfectly with how the top sits on a real Mauser. From there you can re add the pin holes as well as the front screw hole if desired. I’m thinking I’ll probably just cover up the front hole and epoxy it shut but regardless one more step in chiseling David out of the rock. Hammer angles slightly forward but if I ever get around to redesigning my new hammer it should all work perfectly..
It’s quite simple really and I discovered it by mistake honestly. You just need to cut these two parts (1st&2nd pic) so it fits. As you can see it now lines up perfectly with how the top sits on a real Mauser. From there you can re add the pin holes as well as the front screw hole if desired. I’m thinking I’ll probably just cover up the front hole and epoxy it shut but regardless one more step in chiseling David out of the rock. Hammer angles slightly forward but if I ever get around to redesigning my new hammer it should all work perfectly..
I've considered doing something like that, although that would require me to also extend the bottom of the upper receiver back a bit so I can still pin the two halfs together with that screw on the underside. The only way I could eliminate the screw entirely would be if I could machine slots in the upper receiver to accept rails I would somehow add to the lower, like how a real Mauser/MGC assembles.
Without a lathe and/or a mill I don't think I can realistically do either, much less further mods like recasting a whole new hammer like Kpax did (I'd buy 5 of those hammers in a heartbeat BTW) or such. I am considering redrilling the trigger hole further back so it lines up with the accurate placement, at the very least. We'll see.
(I also got my upper blued as well, so once I correct some things I'll weather it up and then paint atop the worn bluing, then wear the paint in turn.)
Without a lathe and/or a mill I don't think I can realistically do either, much less further mods like recasting a whole new hammer like Kpax did (I'd buy 5 of those hammers in a heartbeat BTW) or such. I am considering redrilling the trigger hole further back so it lines up with the accurate placement, at the very least. We'll see.
(I also got my upper blued as well, so once I correct some things I'll weather it up and then paint atop the worn bluing, then wear the paint in turn.)
Maybe I don’t follow but you don’t have to machine anything to attach the upper forward. This modification is extremely basic and as simple as it gets honestly.
It should be the same on the old denix as it is on the new. I did it originally only my old beater which is the old version. Just get rid of the hinges and modify this part and ur golden. As far as the holes go all you need there is a center punch, drill and a tap for the front. Nothing else needs changing otherwise..
It should be the same on the old denix as it is on the new. I did it originally only my old beater which is the old version. Just get rid of the hinges and modify this part and ur golden. As far as the holes go all you need there is a center punch, drill and a tap for the front. Nothing else needs changing otherwise..
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Looking great so far.
If ur goin to paint the lower you should prime that area that u added the jb weld to and sand it smooth. That way it will be seem less
If ur goin to paint the lower you should prime that area that u added the jb weld to and sand it smooth. That way it will be seem less
Darth Lars
Master Member
I did that with my Denix a few years ago. Before drilling the new holes, I had first epoxied aluminium L-brackets for reinforcement on the inside and above the hole. I also had to route some more space inside the upper for the new bumps to fit. (Apparently I did also shave off a mm off the top to make the upper sit lower)You can slide the whole top forward about 100 thousands of an inch so it’s more in line to an actual Mauser. Trigger and hammer still functions as it should as well.
I did cut such a slot with a Dremel, but only long enough for the existing front tip of the rails to lock into. I used 199 High Speed Cutter bit, which is shaped kind of like a cutting wheel. It was just wide enough to fit in there and do the job.
It would be awesome if you could make full rails though!
I did also scratch-build a new hammer out of a block of aluminium, with sheet metal sides glued on. My upper is even further forward and I wanted a longer hammer anyway.
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Let’s see the scratch built hammer! That is impressive.
I think u had the old denix maybe? As with the new one you don’t need so many mods to slide the top forward. Just the 3 that I mentioned in the previous post..
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