Lichtbringer
Master Member
Look at the wavy-ness of the metal against his finger. I'm guessing that is what he is talking about.
Aye, i think you´re right - and additional i see another dent in the lower right corner.
ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
- Thread starter deadbolt
- Start date
Aye, i think you´re right - and additional i see another dent in the lower right corner.
kpax
Sr Member
there is something wrong there. The Aluminum and Steel Sleeve barrel should be the same. Looks like some anomaly on the edge. I know Dave is working on getting you fixed up.
For the black Ox. Remember to wipe off the excess well untill no more comes off. You can degrease and spray some lacquer or use paste wax to protect the finish. When buffed, the wax will look like an oil finish and will allow more handling and can always be reapplied!
For the black Ox. Remember to wipe off the excess well untill no more comes off. You can degrease and spray some lacquer or use paste wax to protect the finish. When buffed, the wax will look like an oil finish and will allow more handling and can always be reapplied!
carlatonina
New Member
thanks you very much, kpax.
I like the second part, the hardest thing for me is that the hole is straight. What do you think?
I like the second part, the hardest thing for me is that the hole is straight. What do you think?
Thanks, that's good info. What I really need is a recommendation for a paint or whatever that will look like the black ox finish. I've had to grind away the paint in several places on my Denix and I'd like to fill those in.
TIA
Edit: Actually, I guess it would be best if it looked like the existing Denix finish. That seems like a pretty basic matte black paint. Basic hardware store spray paint, then?
Last edited:
kpax
Sr Member
Not a problem: We made the hole and threaded rod 1/4 inch so there was a lot of room for alignment... and easy size drill to have/get.
Simply drill the hole bigger than the rod, doesn't need to be perfectly straight or perpendicular as long as the rod goes in the hole loose enough to let the bull barrel sit straight. There can be a lot of room around the rod in the hole.
Put the threaded rod in the bull barrel and dry fit the bull barrel threaded rod in the receiver hole. It should sit flat and straight against the receiver.
Be sure the rod does not stick thru the back too much to stop the bolt from closing. The rod should be flush with the ejecting port inside face.
If it sits flat and straight, you can epoxy in place with 5 minute epoxy.
As it sets, you will have a few minutes to adjust angle as the glue thickens and sets.
It will be easier if the upper receiver is taken off the lower and you sit the upper on the table with a spacer (stack of cards or such will do) under the bull barrel to get the right height... which should be just above the rails.
Last edited:
kpax
Sr Member
Others may have experience with this too, but reg spray paint may be a bit rubbery. Maybe either the black primer or black BBQ paint... semi flat finish and hard/sandable. A lacquer is great because it drys very fast and hard. is not tacky like some Krylon finishes. You can scuff and weather it better I think.
You can prob give a mist coat over everything (except the grips and FH:lol) to even up the look.
Regarding the muzzle flash, I thought I read somewhere that sometimes they use propane to cause the flash? Could that large, blue, gassy flame be a spurt of propane ignited by a cap?
Good stuff; thanks, kpax!
I'm also considering stripping the Denix completely and blueing it, but I'm falling a little short of that level of ambition at the moment.
Now, I'm also considering taking the "mystery" out of the "disk". I've become more interested in developing the spirit of the piece than making an exact replica of the prop. I've been thinking, if there were a disk on that side, what would it be for? An indicator dial? A way to adjust power? It seems logical that a real blaster would have a way to reduce or increase power, i.e. stun, knockdown, max power for fighting armored stormtroopers, etc. Then, the knob under the flash hider would make more sense as a beam width adjuster. Thoughts?
Last edited:
deadbolt
Sr Member
Nice tutorial, Pat! :thumbsup
Very interesting, I wonder if that's really the case with those blue flashes? Something has never really set right with me on those things for some reason.. It's very possible for them to be real muzzle flashes, but I really can't seem to fully convince myself of that yet due to the existing possibility that they could have been simulated/faked also.
It would still be very interesting to find out what's really going on there just for the sake of discussion and our understanding for this prop.
..Even though it's not necessary at all for replicating the prop itself.
-Carson
Very interesting, I wonder if that's really the case with those blue flashes? Something has never really set right with me on those things for some reason.. It's very possible for them to be real muzzle flashes, but I really can't seem to fully convince myself of that yet due to the existing possibility that they could have been simulated/faked also.
It would still be very interesting to find out what's really going on there just for the sake of discussion and our understanding for this prop.
..Even though it's not necessary at all for replicating the prop itself.
-Carson
VFX Freak
Sr Member
Regarding the muzzle flashes: I'm firmly in the "they were real" camp, at least as far as the ones in Star Wars from Han Solo's gun that we've been discussing. Looking at the frame grab from the Laser Disc or the DVD of the same transfer, they look like perfectly reasonable muzzle flashes based on my experience. The artificial blueness in the HD frame grabs is due to extreme color correction applied to the entire film for the Blu Ray.
One big giveaway for me is the fact that there are instances where the gun fires, but due to camera shutter position the flash isn't visible, yet they added a laser blast. If they were adding fake muzzle flashes why wouldn't they use them every time there was a blaster shot?
I'm convinced Han Solo's blaster was firing blanks on set and it was luck of the draw whether the muzzle flashes were caught on camera or not.
One big giveaway for me is the fact that there are instances where the gun fires, but due to camera shutter position the flash isn't visible, yet they added a laser blast. If they were adding fake muzzle flashes why wouldn't they use them every time there was a blaster shot?
I'm convinced Han Solo's blaster was firing blanks on set and it was luck of the draw whether the muzzle flashes were caught on camera or not.
VFX Freak
Sr Member
Here's a quick cut-out from a frame grab of the original Making of Star Wars. The muzzle flash is real, (they wouldn't have added it to the behind-the-scenes footage) and Harrison's aim is terrible! The crew members are wearing hearing protection.
The gun was firing big enough loads to keep the semi-auto mechanism cycling, and they were loud!
The gun was firing big enough loads to keep the semi-auto mechanism cycling, and they were loud!
Where I read about propane, I don't remember it was so long ago (maybe 20 years ago long ago!) but it always bugs me when I notice blue flames coming out of the ends of prop guns. I see it a lot, especially machine guns.
I found this on another forum:
Movie guns - INGunOwners
They're discussing propane guns. A quick google search came up with a bunch of info.
I found this on another forum:
Movie guns - INGunOwners
They're discussing propane guns. A quick google search came up with a bunch of info.
Similar threads
