Anakin Starkiller FX V2 - Aging Weathering & Stencil Tutorial (Master Thread)
- Thread starter Halliwax
- Start date
Gerard2567
Well-Known Member
Hey Halliwax, is there any particular reason you haven't aged the v2 with cold water and oxi-clean? I thought it might've been a cheaper and more effective way than using chemical blackening agents. I've tried it on my v2 and it seems to give it a nice grey patina.
Or have you tried it and found a14 to be better?
Or have you tried it and found a14 to be better?
Dougiefresh80
New Member
Could you show some pictures of your results please
I like the a14 better because I can control the age far easier.
I also don’t know what the long term effects of the oxi-clean are.. I know the effects of the a14, was taught by professionals from the company how to do it
So I just feel more comfortable with that. Not saying the oxi-clean trick is wrong
I just personally prefer the a14 over anything else
Gerard2567
Well-Known Member
The active ingredient in oxi-clean (when introduced to water) is hydrogen peroxide (h2o2) basically, it shouldn't do anything bad long term, it's just a really strong oxidizer. I believe some bleaches contain it too. But I see where you're coming from.
It's night time over here, so I had to use flash, sorry.
I've only done the handle at this stage the rest are still getting soaked. I'm amazed at the outcome. It's a tough finish, steel wool takes time to get the finish off.
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Yeah it really aged it, I think I would buff it back a little
That’s another thing I like about the a14, is go dark. Then you can bring it back to where you want
Basically comes down to control for me
And if done like in my videos you won’t loose the finish or a chip
Someone sent me their v2 back because they wanted a vintage D ring installed. When I removed the pommel, I mark inside each one with a number, his was 003 and still the finish was like the day I put it on.
Wells
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I'll just age and lacquer the booster and try and get a fresh ROTJ look by leaving the rest as raw aluminium. Interested to see how it will turn out.
Also looking forward to your Roman guide.
Dougiefresh80
New Member
Massive thanks to Halliwax for this excellent tutorial and vid’s....I can hear your voice in my head I’ve watched them so many times whilst doing my V2 
have a few bits of weathering work still to do and knob/lever I can switch up as I choose but I’m very happy with the finished result and who knows how it would of turned out without this V2 weathering bible....cheers
koi
have a few bits of weathering work still to do and knob/lever I can switch up as I choose but I’m very happy with the finished result and who knows how it would of turned out without this V2 weathering bible....cheers
koi
Dougiefresh80
New Member
Thanks! And thanks for the advice when I messaged you a while back
...obviously I decided to take the plunge and do it myself in the end, glad I did but I still have my issues with clear coat not scratching off. Dunno what I do wrong!
I’ve just purchased a spinning emitter version of the AS so hopefully I’ll have worked it out by then. Although I wanna leave this one more shiny/movie like.
Dougiefresh80
New Member
those stencils must of been a mission
and I love the look of the new SH mystery chunk. the original seems to look different to me in each available pic but I’m liking this version.
Decided to polish back the top and bottom of the pommel as it was too dull to my eyes....happier now!
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Dougie it came out great!!
Very small sanding and aging to the chunk, I have zero free time for anything right now,
The cone knob tip gets a light sanding too.. it’s raining all day today so I can’t paint
After I’m done packing up in the shop I’ll see if I can bang it a quick chunk video
There’s really nothing to it just a light sanding to the edges
Very small sanding and aging to the chunk, I have zero free time for anything right now,
The cone knob tip gets a light sanding too.. it’s raining all day today so I can’t paint
After I’m done packing up in the shop I’ll see if I can bang it a quick chunk video
There’s really nothing to it just a light sanding to the edges
chillondang
New Member
Hey Halliwax, do you think that 8oz of metal cleaner is enough for a single v2 from solo's hold?
Sure is!!
chillondang
New Member
Hey Halliwax, another question for you. To put the Roman’s clamp on the Solos Hold V2, did you sand down the inside prongs of the clamp? Or what was your process for that? Thanks!
chillondang
Can I take this one Halliwax ? ;D
About the only reason you "wouldn't" remove the tabs on a graflex clamp is if it is for a GRAFLEX haha
(it was designed to be paired together!)
Everything else like the V2/V3/ Obiwan/ Etc, needs a smooth clamp interior to slide in on.
At minimum you'll need a small file (rounded) or coarse sanding pad and be prepared to dedicate time, elbow grease, and patience to removing those tabs.
OR
A power tool that can fit inside your clamp to grind it down.
Such as: A smaller diameter cutoff wheel, abrasive flapwheel, or carbide cutter, etc. (Used with a Dremel, Rotozip, or other "rotary" type tool).
A Dremel might be the best value item to purchase for this and any other future crafting projects as they are versatile and last a long time with many attachments and setups. (Christmas is coming soon anyway
)My personal favorite for de-tabbing clamps:
A dynafile, or "bandfile" beltsander. You can google that one, it's not a common shoptool but Harbor Freight carries a decent corded-electric one.
I would NOT recommend a die grinder. It may be readily available/ inexpensive at a hardware store: but it is simply too powerful. One could easily eat through the face of the clamp or chuck it across the workspace... PPE is a must with that tool.
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chillondang
Can I take this one Halliwax ? ;D
About the only reason you "wouldn't" remove the tabs on a graflex clamp is if it is for a GRAFLEX haha
(it was designed to be paired together!)
Everything else like the V2/V3/ Obiwan/ Etc, needs a smooth clamp interior to slide in on.
At minimum you'll need a small file (rounded) or coarse sanding pad and be prepared to dedicate time, elbow grease, and patience to removing those tabs.
OR
A power tool that can fit inside your clamp to grind it down.
Such as: A smaller diameter cutoff wheel, abrasive flapwheel, or carbide cutter, etc. (Used with a Dremel, Rotozip, or other "rotary" type tool).
A Dremel might be the best value item to purchase for this and any other future crafting projects as they are versatile and last a long time with many attachments and setups. (Christmas is coming soon anyway
My personal favorite for de-tabbing clamps:
A dynafile, or "bandfile" beltsander. You can google that one, it's not a common shoptool but Harbor Freight carries a decent corded-electric one.
I would NOT recommend a die grinder. It may be readily available/ inexpensive at a hardware store: but it is simply too powerful. One could easily eat through the face of the clamp or chuck it across the workspace... PPE is a must with that tool.
Well done sir!!
chillondang
New Member
Halliwax I have been following your aging tutorial and I saw the part where you say to pick up bolts for the booster and pommel. In your video you say you left the grub screws in too. Should I get bolts for all of these components rather than using the included set screws? Also, what did you do for the emitter set screws as well?
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