1:6 Scale Darth Vader and Star Wars Projects

[star-art]

When vacuum-forming, extra material is added past the edges of the part. This avoids flaws creeping into the edges of the part during the forming process. The same technique could be used here. If you add a thin strip past the edge of the part, any flaws caused by the supports would affect those areas instead, leaving the edge of your parts pristine. You can remove this extra material fairly easily using an ultrasonic knife to get close to the edge and then finish with a light sanding for a perfect edge.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

So, you are suggesting a kind of buffer to take off the stresses on the main part?

 

[star-art]

Exactly. Now I haven't seen anyone talk about doing that before. But, I've seen enough prints that shrank away from the edges in between the supports to know that it might be worth a try.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Well, I'll definitely try it, as it makes sense to try to strengthen the area most prone to warping. I'll try that on the chest boxes first, as those are the easiest to add such a structure to and are the quickest to print to test it out. May take a while though. Thanks for the idea.

 

[Hunk a Junk]

I've done what star-art suggests -- adding a strip of extra material on the edges of parts to avoid flaws and warping in the printing process. It's relatively simple. I import the stl file into Tinkercad (assuming the file isn't too large to import) and then use the basic shape generator to add a VERY thin strip that connects to the stl model and then a larger strip that will connect to the printing supports. I then combine the strips to the stl model as one file to export to the slicing program. The supports are then attached to the added strips so that any warping is on the strip and not the model. After printing, I use a razor saw to cut away the strip and sand the finished piece. The attached photos are just examples of a generic wing shape to show what I mean. The red strips are what I added to act as a buffer.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Cool. Thanks guys. I think this can fix some of the issues I'm having without too much effort. If you see anything else I'm doing that could be done better or easier, I am always interested in good advice.

 

[dr_slurpee]

Using almost a solid line of supports is meant to do the same as adding a sacrificial edge to the model but with a bit less hassle, especially if the model isn’t always a simple geometry to add that to. They also peel of almost like Velcro especially when heated.

Not that I’m saying it’s better, I’ve done both in the past but have settled on the support option. Love seeing people sharing ideas, and tricks. Helps people add more tools! Use every trick that works! More tricks just means more ways to solve different problems for sure!

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Now that I have a battle plan I will try to update the print models with stronger supports and see how that fares. If that doesn't work, I'll try the buffer piece idea. I appreciate all the help guys.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Found a place near me that sells the mask I need, so I will see if I can buy that tomorrow. I also "fixed" my compressor, so it isn't blowing so weak - turns out I may have been the cause of that by putting rubber seals in where the airbrush hose connects, thinking it needed a tighter seal... but turns out... that was wrong. It's still not as strong as I would like, but much better than before. So if all goes well, I may get back to working on this soon.

Have also finished the basic body sculptures of the ANH, ESB, and RotJ Vader bodies, so now I just need to sculpt the arms and hands and new boots... and then I'll start sculpting all the soft parts.

When I start printing again I have also made a deal to offer Obi-Wan Kenobi Vader parts.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

The place didn't sell to anything but companies, so that was a bust. There's another place in town, but I haven't been able to go there to see if they can help me get the right filters too.

I've been working on sculpting pants on the bodies. Got to the point where I have baked the ANH legs, so now I'm working on the ESB ones, while also working on the arms. Going to start the RotJ arms soon, but am not settled on a pose for that statue yet. Considering doing the "There is no conflict" or "Obi-Wan trained you well" pose. If anyone has any ideas I'd love to hear them.

Working with someone new to handle the printing, since I can't seem to get that happening myself, so hopefully there'll be an update on that soon.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

This pictures doesn't show the amount of work I had to put into this to get it done. But thought I'd share it anyway.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Went through my models and found there are more that needs fixing than I thought. 16 in total needing from minor to major repairs. It is going to take some serious effort. And I curse at myself as I could and should have done all this work months ago.

Starting with all the ANH stuff first, so we can get a sizing test print made.

We offered 2 versions previously - true 1:6 scale and HT scale, but I've heard that the "HT scale" may be too big. We only offered that because the stormtrooper helmet needed to be enlarged to fit with HT and Sideshow armor. This may not be required at all for Vader, as people have often paired HT stuff with the Kaiyodo/Screamin' armor parts and helmet and that looked to scale compared to the oversized HT helmet... and my project in true 1:6 scale is on par with or a little bigger than the Kaiyodo sculpt. We'll keep people posted on our findings.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Working on the last ANH model before we can do some test prints. While working those out I will trudge through fixing the last 9 models... the face masks are going to be the worst as the connection points where the grills were merged into the face mask model has to be gone through on the polygon level to clean things up. I cannot simply use the optimizing tool as it works on the whole piece and risks making areas I do not need fixed broken and in need of fixing. Each tooth section on each face mask will likely take 1-2 days of concentrated work. Not looking forward to it. But... when it's done... they are fixed.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Finally, I was able to get a respiratory mask that was sealed and had the right kind of filters, so now I'm print ready. Since it's been a while I may have to update the firmware on the printer and update and re-acquaint myself with the slicer software.

Still working on fixing the models. Had to take a break from 3D models for a few days, though, as I felt like I was going insane.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Will test things out hopefully next week, if I get over this weak slump.