1:6 Scale Darth Vader and Star Wars Projects

[Too Much Garlic]

Wash and Cure station and more Water Washable resin has been shipped. Will probably be able to pick it up on Thursday. Going to find the best place to order the Sonic Mini 8K from soon. Hopefully I'll have things up and running soon after that.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

I just learned yesterday that the printer I was planning on getting has a slightly larger cousin in 8K that gets released about the same time - the Sonic Mighty 8K. It will be released early July, so when I get it I will do tests people suggest to dial in the best layer burn time to achieve the best and sharpest results. Hopefully if all goes well, things will be slowly up at running sometime during or near the end of July. Sorry for the long wait, though this gives me time to prepare everything before I get it, so at least there's something good coming from the delay.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Just pulled the trigger on a Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K, as the shop I'm buying from will receive a small batch tomorrow, with the notice that the Mighty 8K has been delayed until August at the earliest.

I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

First test print on the new printer was a success but it was a failure in the sense that it adhered so hard to the print plate that I had to destroy the print in order to get it off. And I used their optimal settings on their website. I will now have to figure out how to go forward as I do NOT have the strength or stamina to battle with such **** and even less desire to see the print destroyed because the adhesion is too extreme.

What to do... what to do?

 

[Valdore]

168 x 90 - Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K

fits: Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K Size: 168 x 90 mm Continuous printing with a Double Wham, start another print before you start cleaning the first! The Double Wham contains: 1 WB Magnetic Base with 3M adhesive resistant to harsh solvents and chemicals like resin, mean green, and isopropyl alcohol 2...

whambam3d.com

Would a flex plate be what you're after? Never really had the need for one myself. But looking at YT videos, they make the removal process way easier.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Cool. I'll check it out, 'cause I got wrecked from getting that model off.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Sorry for the lack of updates. Been sick a lot and have been working on other stuff and still haven't gotten to work with the 3D printer. The Flex plate looks cool, but it is nothing I would be able to install. Printers in the future should just come with such a feature already installed.

Am trying to work myself up into getting things moving with the 3D prints again... but it's hard - especially with the print time and having to do all that post processing on resin prints at a time of day when I'm most tired. And I can't get up earlier to start the print as that will ruin my day... so... I hate being sick.

Anyway... played around a little with some of the accessories, checking them for flaws and issues.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Been watching some more 3D printing videos and some explained how I could fix the issue I was having with the prints adhering to the print plate too hard, so I'll try and get things moving so I can dial in the printer and get these prints started.

Am still hit with a lot of health issues, so things are moving at a snails pace these days.

I'll keep everyone posted.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Anyone who knows me knows that I love 3D scanning. Even when it goes wrong, because you see the object slowly form in the scan viewer and it's like magic to me. To be able to recreate something just by pointing a 3D scanner at it and then having a digital object in the end that is a near perfect representation of the original - depending on the scanner - is just amazing.

So when I saw this when browsing through youtube lately I was happy to see this is finally happening. I had long gone with the idea of replicating stormtrooper armor to go with the helmets I have in this project, but seeing as this project has taken so long and is still struggling it is cool to see someone else get it done.

Here's to me hoping they'll do 1:6 scale versions as well.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Kinda thought RS Props scanning their stuff would be as interesting to others as it was for me. Hmm...

I am downloading an update to my printer and will hopefully do a test print calibration this week. I know all the things I did wrong the last time, so hopefully I'll do better this time. Crossing my fingers I'll get it dialed in quickly and actually be fresh enough to do it soon.

 

[guabe]

Following... Great work.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Test calibration prints prepared. Hope with the new knowledge this will go better than last time where I demolished the print in order to get it off the print plate... and lost all energy for the rest of the day.

Man... I really wish I can dial this in so it will become the glorious experience I see everybody else have with resin 3D printing.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

First test print was much easier to pry off, but I broke it in the process. I tried with bottom burn time of 10 seconds. Now I lowered it to 9.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

9 seconds burn time on the first three layers was too much. But I was able to almost get the whole print off without breaking it... though... it broke in several pieces. Though, I was able to determine that the 3 seconds normal layer burn time was over-exposed, so I lowered the burn times to 8 seconds for the bottom layers and 2.8 seconds pr layer for the rest.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Got it off in almost 1 piece. Some corners did snap off. I may keep it at 8 when I do my regular printing, as I don't care about not damaging supports - would rather risk damage to those than the print peeling off the print plate during printing. Will try a bottom layer burn time of 7 for the next one.

Normal layer burn time looked pretty good, but will try a 2.6 seconds burn time for the next one to see how it looks.

I'm getting close.

These calibrations may not work for others. I'm dialing it in for some water washable resin.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

2.6 seconds normal burn time was too low. So it seems my settings are 7 second bottom layer burn time (or 8 to be sure) and 2.8 seconds normal layer burn time. Testing these settings on an ESB chest box.

 

[eethan]

Hey, I see you are struggling with your printer and burn times. Is your printer a black and white screen? those burn much much faster, I use burn time under 2sec on my photon monoX but the base layer are much higher that what you describe, so I feel there is something weird going on with your numbers here. You also need to check what screen power to apply to which resin, a lot of time, the screen is not at 100% power.
Most printer also come with a test burn file that will print a test model at 8 different exposure settings or so and let you see in one go the best setting for your resin.

i'm not an expert at all and am also not really enjoying 3D printing personally, but I hope this can help at least. I can't really help with more ind epth questions though, sorry.
good luck with your project

 

[eethan]

I might add that if your exposure setting are actually good, your trouble might be with the orientation of the items you are trying to print, if the base is extremely large, it might have trouble to release from the plate. Maybe you can come up with a different orientation, hollowing your model...

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Thanks for the input. Maybe the issue I'm having is because I'm using water washable resin. I'm sure that alters what settings to use. I'll keep tweaking what orientation is best, but so far, I dialed in the settings to 7 seconds bottom burn time (or 8 to be sure), and 2,8 seconds normal layer burn time to get the best result.

Printed an ESB Vader chest box as a test at 0.05mm layer height and it turned out really well. I used that layer height to save time for the test, but I can go down to 0.02mm when I really start printing. I printed it at a 50° angle, but may just print it laying flat as it may give the best result.

Sorry for the fussy picture... I couldn't get a sharp image as I can't hold my hands steady enough for it to keep the focus. The white specs are simply because I didn't clean it properly before curing.

 

[Too Much Garlic]

Lychee Slicer keeps saying any model I load in there has errors, but it refuses to show what those errors are. And when it "repairs" the non existing errors/holes, it messes up the file. I have checked the file in all sorts of 3D software and there are no holes or errors or double polygons or overlapping planes, so has anyone else had this issue with Lychee Slicer and were you able to fix it?