Well, it looks like they made an updated version of Luke's ROTJ saber for TFA...
- Thread starter OnFire5210
- Start date
Well if there is any kind of voting on the last renders... gotta go with this.
Just don't think it's that deep a recess
I think the deeper recess looks the best so far. I like that render.
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The deeper looks fine, and I can add material to bring it back up, but the render above from Post 295 looks closer IMHO. There appears to have been enough indirect light in the room for a deeper recess to allow us to see the base of the nipple as in your most recent render. But we can't, leading me to believe the render above from Post 295 is better.
Again, just my opinion.
cayman shen
Master Member
Latest render looks gorgeous.
Jedi Reali
Sr Member
If that happens you can bet someone (if not Dan) will offer an updated run of these. And more than likely there will be other features that will need updating. I can wait till 2018, but I'll still be following this project with interest.
opcorn
Last edited:
Since I cant swing the $100 I made my own 3D model that I'll print..
so here's my take based on this thread and that 1 picture
Edit: I should mention this is just the first try, I need to change some things, but I'll upload the stl's for everyone when Im a little happier with them.. unless thats not allowed of course
so here's my take based on this thread and that 1 picture
Edit: I should mention this is just the first try, I need to change some things, but I'll upload the stl's for everyone when Im a little happier with them.. unless thats not allowed of course
seelsa73
Sr Member
Totally off-topic, but I'm working on a 3D model that I want printed and am getting high price quotes from online printers. Maybe it has to do with size (i.e. price of material to be printed from) but all I need it for is to make a mold from, so I don't want to spend an arm and a leg just getting the stl printed. Any chance you offer people who ask nicely use of your printer? [emoji56]
Bogleo
Well-Known Member
Which online printers are you checking? I have some experience with cutting down on costs with Shapeways. The main thing is to make it hollow. It depends on the material, but the minimum wall thickness is 0.7mm - 1mm. If it's going to be molded anyway, you would only need to make it strong enough to withstand smoothing and molding.
Also, there are people on here that offer printing services, but they won't be as high-resolution as Shapeways. I've also heard of a website called 3Dhubs where people offer their printing services.
If you need help/advice on the model, give me a shout. What software are you using, BTW?
I like the slight bevel... very Obi Wan-ish...
That is the bevel that I think looks proper on it actually. That is basically what I was trying to say a few posts back.
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3D Hubs?
Barnstormer
Well-Known Member
That bevel also show the elliptical holes - I don't think that's on the original, you'd be able to see the distortion in the shape of the holes...
seelsa73
Sr Member
Actually, I already had this thread going that you offered advice on. The program I'm using, 123D Design, doesn't want to what they call shell the design (hollow it) beyond .003 inches. I've had a few things done by shapeways, so they're my go-to printer, but they're asking upwards of $50 for it. I'm not really familiar with the process or the cost of materials, so again, it could be the size of the design (it's 2.5" x 2.5" x 4") that's jacking the price up and that's just the way it is, which would suck.
Bogleo
Well-Known Member
Oh, I remember now. Wow, without even thinking about it, I gave pretty much the exact same advice (Hollowing, 3dhubs, etc) :lol
Anyway, in my reply, I thought you were talking about a model of this saber, whoops!
A reason why it could be that expensive is if it's completely enclosed. Are you doing it as one enclosed piece? If so, there's your problem, because the nylon powder they use for printing needs a hole to escape, otherwise you'd get a hollow model filled with powder. There are guidelines on Shapeways' website about the size of the exit/escape hole. Alternatively, you could design it in two pieces with a bottom and a lid, or with the back missing, etc.
I'll stop hijacking this thread, you can PM me or talk in one of your other threads if you like.
me too :lol
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