Tron Legacy Costume
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IronCostumer
Well-Known Member
I've basically been living at thrift stores for a few weeks now trying to find a suitable leather jacket. So far, nothing. When I do find something, I'm going to use LED strips and some sort of flexible diffuser instead of EL because it will be cheaper. For the hub I was thinking of just looking for a suitable piece of Tupperware to use as a base and then add foam. Or at least thats the idea for now. I'll probably come up with something better down the road. Please post if you find a suitable look-alike jacket!
tim
Sr Member
It's the pierced leather look that will be the toughest part to match, I think. If not for that, it would be pretty easy to find a "close enough."
games001
Well-Known Member
Satxer, nice work indeed. Very modern cyber-Tron looking. Has almost an organic feeling to it. Can we get a breakdown of your methods?
Thormungandr, that's a nice layout so far. Very close to what I was thinking about for my jacket (once I find one I like 100% since most leather jackets I am finding suck).
Thormungandr, that's a nice layout so far. Very close to what I was thinking about for my jacket (once I find one I like 100% since most leather jackets I am finding suck).
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TheWarlock
New Member
For everyone looking to make leather type parts or leather looking things:
I've done alot of work with leather; I've built armor pieces, customized jackets, you name it. And for things like this where you need to kind of dial in the right sizes for a custom build, I've always used cheap craft store vinyl, both as a sacrificial test-run type material and for templates where it doesn't matter if it gets trashed.
Usually I will make a quick-fast built of whatever it is with the vinyl just to make sure everything works, and then do cutting on the real leather (because there's no room for error there) afterwards. I've found that cheapie vinyl works great for costume parts, and I would suggest it as an alternative to digging through racks of clothes in thrift stores and looking for real leather parts. It usually runs around $3 a yard, so it will end up being way cheaper than even a used jacket.
Vinyl is inherently water resistant, and you can put a sewing needle through it like butter; whereas trying to sew leather will kill your hands pretty quick depending on the gauge of it. And for Tron armor, a few coats of Plasti-Dip will have it looking rubberized in no time (which is how I plan to build my Rinzler armor).
Note: I am talking about vinyl, not PVC. Think more like cheap computer chair upholstery material and less like shiny sexy clubwear material.
As for everyone wanting to go the distance and use real leather from scratch:
There are alot of places online where you can buy wholesale leather pieces; there's even some places where you can literally buy the whole entire side of a cow. If anyone is that ambitious, I would suggest Tandy Leather Factory Tandy Leather Factory - Leathercraft and Leather Craft Supplies, as I have gotten huge pieces of leather for cheap, as well as high quality hardware (rivets, buckles, spikes, etc) from them. If you see any real leather heavy metal or goth type wristbands or armor in your local shops, chances are the parts came from these guys.
And for people wondering about leather thickness and gauges, leather is usually measured in ounces. for Tron stuff I would go thin; very thin. Unless you have pro leather working tools, you won't be able to work with armor grade leathers (which run about 1/8" thick, and is 8-10 oz). You will want a "garment leather" grade that is 1 to 3 oz. That should be light enough to work with, but sturdy enough to make convincing armor that's not too floppy or swishy.
There's also ebay sellers that sell leather parts; usually from upholsterers who have leftover pieces from large sets of furniture, sellers from Harley shops who have leftover pieces from making jackets, chaps, and saddle bags, and an interesting group of sellers I've found are equestrian shops who have leather pieces left over from making horse saddles and other horse related things.
Judging by how this thread has quickly become the de facto place for Tron costume stuff, I hope this helps everyone somewhat in trying to get leather or leather looking pieces!
I've done alot of work with leather; I've built armor pieces, customized jackets, you name it. And for things like this where you need to kind of dial in the right sizes for a custom build, I've always used cheap craft store vinyl, both as a sacrificial test-run type material and for templates where it doesn't matter if it gets trashed.
Usually I will make a quick-fast built of whatever it is with the vinyl just to make sure everything works, and then do cutting on the real leather (because there's no room for error there) afterwards. I've found that cheapie vinyl works great for costume parts, and I would suggest it as an alternative to digging through racks of clothes in thrift stores and looking for real leather parts. It usually runs around $3 a yard, so it will end up being way cheaper than even a used jacket.
Vinyl is inherently water resistant, and you can put a sewing needle through it like butter; whereas trying to sew leather will kill your hands pretty quick depending on the gauge of it. And for Tron armor, a few coats of Plasti-Dip will have it looking rubberized in no time (which is how I plan to build my Rinzler armor).
Note: I am talking about vinyl, not PVC. Think more like cheap computer chair upholstery material and less like shiny sexy clubwear material.
As for everyone wanting to go the distance and use real leather from scratch:
There are alot of places online where you can buy wholesale leather pieces; there's even some places where you can literally buy the whole entire side of a cow. If anyone is that ambitious, I would suggest Tandy Leather Factory Tandy Leather Factory - Leathercraft and Leather Craft Supplies, as I have gotten huge pieces of leather for cheap, as well as high quality hardware (rivets, buckles, spikes, etc) from them. If you see any real leather heavy metal or goth type wristbands or armor in your local shops, chances are the parts came from these guys.
And for people wondering about leather thickness and gauges, leather is usually measured in ounces. for Tron stuff I would go thin; very thin. Unless you have pro leather working tools, you won't be able to work with armor grade leathers (which run about 1/8" thick, and is 8-10 oz). You will want a "garment leather" grade that is 1 to 3 oz. That should be light enough to work with, but sturdy enough to make convincing armor that's not too floppy or swishy.
There's also ebay sellers that sell leather parts; usually from upholsterers who have leftover pieces from large sets of furniture, sellers from Harley shops who have leftover pieces from making jackets, chaps, and saddle bags, and an interesting group of sellers I've found are equestrian shops who have leather pieces left over from making horse saddles and other horse related things.
Judging by how this thread has quickly become the de facto place for Tron costume stuff, I hope this helps everyone somewhat in trying to get leather or leather looking pieces!
Panzer
Well-Known Member
Indeed, I was thinking the same thing since the AlpineStar's price was so expensive. I actually did manage to find a perforated leather jacket that may in fact fit the bill without breaking the bank. There are certainly some noticeable differences but the overall look is there I believe.
BurlingtonCoatFactory.com - Perforated Faux Leather Bomber
tim
Sr Member
That's pretty close. If only they could lose the elastic waist and wrist cuffs and have zippers at the ends of the sleeves, it would be near-perfect.
Xxblackbird
Sr Member
tim
Sr Member
Okay, so which of the two reviewers are you?
CostumerNew2010
Member
You're gonna win 1st place in ANY costume contest with that one I bet(SSSSOOOO jealous I am)! :lol
Panzer
Well-Known Member
I got another one here that has that but has other differences elsewhere. Too bad the real deal is so pricey.
http://myleather.com/p/Mens-Motorcy...Leather-Motorcycle-Armored-Jacket/95697.html#
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tim
Sr Member
I like this jacket! :thumbsup
Satxer
Sr Member
The armor itself was originally clear. I had painted over it once to attempt a MK3 Cyborg Smoke. The costume didn't really go far, so I used this chest as a base, just sanded off sections I wanted to use for the lighting. From there, I taped in the EL wire to the backside around the sections I plan to light. After that, I took a couple of thin pieces of cardboard, and put a lair of the foil tape on it to help back the EL wire. Because as we know, EL wire isn't meant to light large sections as I am doing here. So, as you can see, it shows up pretty nice on camera(those pics in the light are WITHOUT flash).
The next couple days, I have to test to see how much I have to mask off before I paint. Plus, add the disc holder to the back. I just need an opinion to the bicep armor that attaches to the chest. Should I leave those on, or not? I'd almost say to take them off.
I have to cover up the logos on the wetsuit as well. And decide if I am happy without any armor on the legs or not. I have some mechanics gloves I will probably use as well as some wrist protectors to cover the seam. The boots pictured, I am not sure if I intend to use those.
mworley007
New Member
Wow, Satxer! That looks pretty awesome! REALLY cool lighting effect. SLICK!
Kaisergrendel
New Member
Question for Compass (or anyone who's bought from E-luminates):
I'm looking at buying EL sheet from the E-luminates but I'm not sure which type of white EL to use - WOWO or POWO? The salesman I contacted says that the WOWO is about 20% dimmer and gives off a cool white light whereas the POWO has a slight pinkish tinge to the light. TL seemed to have used a version of POWO and your suit also looks like you've used it. From your photos it looks like pure white/slightly bluish. Have you noticed a pinkish tinge in yours?
I'm looking at buying EL sheet from the E-luminates but I'm not sure which type of white EL to use - WOWO or POWO? The salesman I contacted says that the WOWO is about 20% dimmer and gives off a cool white light whereas the POWO has a slight pinkish tinge to the light. TL seemed to have used a version of POWO and your suit also looks like you've used it. From your photos it looks like pure white/slightly bluish. Have you noticed a pinkish tinge in yours?
From what I've seen, when un-lit, it is quite a bit pink! Personally I'd want pure white, when off or turned on. I think the EL sheet anyone has posted here is the non-pink sheet.
Tim
Kaisergrendel
New Member
Me too Tim, however my first priority is getting as close a match as I can get to the color used in the movie. I've slowly pored through all 90+ pages but I don't remember seeing anyone use the WOWO version
Another question, does anyone know where I could find or how to make an EL driver that flickers? I've noticed sometimes the lightsuits don't have a solid glow but flicker almost like an old fluorescent light.
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games001
Well-Known Member
I have order and tried on a number of jackets in the last week from this and other sites..
One big, BOLD issue comes up each time.
The arms on these 'riding jackets' are long to the point of being silly. They are meant to be long for the purpose of riding a bike in a stable position, but look like they are 2 sizes too big for a person when worn casually.
Panzer
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the word of advice, I guess that means I can take the shoulder size down a notch. I have super long arms but am rather skinny and usually have to go to the larger sizes for the sleeves to fit me. This is actually good news for me.
twinight
Active Member
Me too Tim, however my first priority is getting as close a match as I can get to the color used in the movie. I've slowly pored through all 90+ pages but I don't remember seeing anyone use the WOWO version
Another question, does anyone know where I could find or how to make an EL driver that flickers? I've noticed sometimes the lightsuits don't have a solid glow but flicker almost like an old fluorescent light.
If you want screen accurate, they used POWO as seen here and it does look pink. If you wear any costumes with the lights off, you'll want the WOWO. Blackfeathers used WOWO in his gauntlets. As for flickering, any interruption of the power source can do that. Just wire in something that strobes the output of the power to the inverter.
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