Tron Legacy Costume

[thormungandr]

finally done (well at least for now) with the outwear of my costume

 

[games001]

Anyone ever think of using this?
ThinkGeek :: "Wire Glue" Conductive Glue

I've used that paste before, not great for areas that might take some flexing or pressure.

 

[NoSon]

As my group has been calling them, yes. There are three distinct forms of program, viruses being something other than a standard 'program', so they make up group #3.

BASIC: Any program created within or for The Grid and having an easily traced line from creator to actual program. (i.e. Tron, Sark, Ram, CLU, even Flynn's Clothing as he is a User, etc are all created for or within the program format of The Grid)

ISO: Any self-engineered program, usually formed within the Sea of Simulation as we have been told, to have come into creation without programming assistance from Users or Programs. (i.e. Jalen, Ophelia, etc)

----------------------

For those of us not sure about the setup of ELTape, I did a minor experiment this eve to see just how easy or hard it is to make so. The issue is making sure your connectors (2 of them) are seperated by the median or divider line on the back (underside) of the ELTape. In the case of my tape, it's damn close to one side where this line comes into play, but I used glue, not solder or clips so you can see clearly the contacts.

Front (lit) side of ELTape section. Powered by a 12v Sound Driver:

Back (unlit) side of ELTape section. Same power, no solder, just crazy glue and careful placement:

As asked before, if ANYONE knows where to find the small clips that could be used to 'bite' into this sort of ELTape and create stable connections for power, please let us know. I can't imagine being able to solder the neg wire onto the ELTape with such a small (nearly the width of the wire) area without spilling over into the other section and shorting the whole dang thing.

You could always use some masking tape on the right side of the negative wire. That way, if you have a large amount of solder that drips, it won't drip onto the actual EL and ruin the connection, but onto the tape instead.

 

[games001]

You could always use some masking tape on the right side of the negative wire. That way, if you have a large amount of solder that drips, it won't drip onto the actual EL and ruin the connection, but onto the tape instead.

I have tried that before.. all I ever got from it was melted tape. :confused

 

[Prince NEO]

I actually had a dream about a book I'm writing (If that makes any sense) and anyway, the lead singer (Also the main character) likes to show-boat, so he writes and sings songs about his life (Filled with fighting and monsters and stuff) and does crazy performances with a band, anyway, the design is basically a really dark Tron costume, except it's all red and the "El Tape" is black.

I'm considering making a second costume after I finish the first with EL tape that is red and the rest of the costume black and more Tron like, but I'll post some pictures up of the design tomorrow afternoon.

 

[games001]

I actually had a dream about a book I'm writing (If that makes any sense) and anyway, the lead singer (Also the main character) likes to show-boat, so he writes and sings songs about his life (Filled with fighting and monsters and stuff) and does crazy performances with a band, anyway, the design is basically a really dark Tron costume, except it's all red and the "El Tape" is black.

I'm considering making a second costume after I finish the first with EL tape that is red and the rest of the costume black and more Tron like, but I'll post some pictures up of the design tomorrow afternoon.

All Red leather or rubber suit with Black 3M Reflective Tape would be fun to see. Black ELTape I have never heard of nor seen before.

 

[tim]

I have tried that before.. all I ever got from it was melted tape. :confused

True using thin wire and a low power iron (i.e. under 30W)--or better yet, temp controlled solder station.

 

[Rinzler]

Question: Has anyone here used spray on flexible vinyl paints for their costumes and would it work for painting EVA foam tron costume body armor?

 

[Sheol]

Luminous film has the Etco clips shown before in this thread. Priceless.
And, though I assume you know it, keep in mind the total amount of square inches of EL Tape for the inverter.

As my group has been calling them, yes. There are three distinct forms of program, viruses being something other than a standard 'program', so they make up group #3.

BASIC: Any program created within or for The Grid and having an easily traced line from creator to actual program. (i.e. Tron, Sark, Ram, CLU, even Flynn's Clothing as he is a User, etc are all created for or within the program format of The Grid)

ISO: Any self-engineered program, usually formed within the Sea of Simulation as we have been told, to have come into creation without programming assistance from Users or Programs. (i.e. Jalen, Ophelia, etc)

----------------------

For those of us not sure about the setup of ELTape, I did a minor experiment this eve to see just how easy or hard it is to make so. The issue is making sure your connectors (2 of them) are seperated by the median or divider line on the back (underside) of the ELTape. In the case of my tape, it's damn close to one side where this line comes into play, but I used glue, not solder or clips so you can see clearly the contacts.

Front (lit) side of ELTape section. Powered by a 12v Sound Driver:

Back (unlit) side of ELTape section. Same power, no solder, just crazy glue and careful placement:

As asked before, if ANYONE knows where to find the small clips that could be used to 'bite' into this sort of ELTape and create stable connections for power, please let us know. I can't imagine being able to solder the neg wire onto the ELTape with such a small (nearly the width of the wire) area without spilling over into the other section and shorting the whole dang thing.

 

[Tronzler]

I am planning to make a Tron themed costume this summer. I would like to have it done at least before October because I am going to the Halloween party at Walt Disney World. I have been scanning the internet for ideas and I'm pretty much set on either going as Quorra or just a suit styled after Sam Flynn. I just wanted to know your opinions. Should I go as Quorra or Sam? What would be the best route to take?

 

[games001]

True using thin wire and a low power iron (i.e. under 30W)--or better yet, temp controlled solder station.

See, now it just gets over complicated. :lol

Question: Has anyone here used spray on flexible vinyl paints for their costumes and would it work for painting EVA foam tron costume body armor?

Yes, it works fine for areas that will flex only a little, but knees, elbows, shoulders.. won't last more than a few hours at best in a party or club situation. You will start getting compression creases and tears sooner or later.

Luminous film has the Etco clips shown before in this thread. Priceless.

And, though I assume you know it, keep in mind the total amount of square inches of EL Tape for the inverter.

If my math is correct, on 3/4in wide ELTape, I can get about 13-14ft of length out of my standard 12v Sound Inverter (300mah output and about 4-5 hours of use on the 2000mah battery packs). The ETCO Clips are $1.00 each at LF.. geez. Might be just as simple (and not cost me $20 in just clips which is only slightly less than ALL the ELTape for this rebuild will cost) to try one of a dozen other methods first. :cool

I am planning to make a Tron themed costume this summer. I would like to have it done at least before October because I am going to the Halloween party at Walt Disney World. I have been scanning the internet for ideas and I'm pretty much set on either going as Quorra or just a suit styled after Sam Flynn. I just wanted to know your opinions. Should I go as Quorra or Sam? What would be the best route to take?

Depends in you are Male or Female mainly.

The 'Sam' look is a standard program style, one given to Users and other 'common' programs within The Grid. 'Quarra' is a specific female look as we have seen thus far.

 

[Tronzler]

See, now it just gets over complicated. :lol



Yes, it works fine for areas that will flex only a little, but knees, elbows, shoulders.. won't last more than a few hours at best in a party or club situation. You will start getting compression creases and tears sooner or later.



If my math is correct, on 3/4in wide ELTape, I can get about 13-14ft of length out of my standard 12v Sound Inverter (300mah output and about 4-5 hours of use on the 2000mah battery packs)



Depends in you are Male or Female mainly.

The 'Sam' look is a standard program style, one given to Users and other 'common' programs within The Grid. 'Quarra' is a specific female look as we have seen thus far.

Thank you for the information. I am female, but I am just trying to figure our which would be best. I know the standard program would be a lot easier to do rather than a Quorra based one. I am still in the planning stages though. I won't begin working on the costume until the summer. I'm just trying to brainstorm right now.

 

[games001]

Thank you for the information. I am female, but I am just trying to figure our which would be best. I know the standard program would be a lot easier to do rather than a Quorra based one. I am still in the planning stages though. I won't begin working on the costume until the summer. I'm just trying to brainstorm right now.

Now that we all know the details, feel free to ask whatever you can't find answers to in this thread. We are all still learning as we go here.

 

[Sheol]

For the tape seems correct inverter, good job, but the Etco are 0.35 each (it can be bought without wire attached). Since you have wire for what I see, it's very easy to attach it to the clip, you don't even need to solder.



If my math is correct, on 3/4in wide ELTape, I can get about 13-14ft of length out of my standard 12v Sound Inverter (300mah output and about 4-5 hours of use on the 2000mah battery packs). The ETCO Clips are $1.00 each at LF.. geez. Might be just as simple (and not cost me $20 in just clips which is only slightly less than ALL the ELTape for this rebuild will cost) to try one of a dozen other methods first. :cool

 

[Tronzler]

For the body suit, I am thinking about buying a wet suit. What would be the best material to use for the plating on the outside of Sam's outfit?

 

[games001]

For the tape seems correct inverter, good job, but the Etco are 0.35 each (it can be bought without wire attached). Since you have wire for what I see, it's very easy to attach it to the clip, you don't even need to solder.

I don't know where on that Price Sheet you see $0.35 for each ETCO, but still.. better than $1.00 for pre-wired clips I can easily create myself in seconds. Link?

For the body suit, I am thinking about buying a wet suit. What would be the best material to use for the plating on the outside of Sam's outfit?

I have had good results with shaped EVA Foam, 'painted' with Black PlastiDip for the 'Rubber' look.

 

[EHyde]

I have had good results with shaped EVA Foam, 'painted' with Black PlastiDip for the 'Rubber' look.

Would liquid latex colored with acrylic paint work just as well? I have a bunch of latex left over from a different project but I will get the plasti-dip if there's a reason to.

 

[games001]

Would liquid latex colored with acrylic paint work just as well? I have a bunch of latex left over from a different project but I will get the plasti-dip if there's a reason to.

Bare Liquid Latex will give you a richer shine (especially when polished) than PlastiDip, which is only slightly shiny. The issue with paint is the flex factor. Acrylic paint can be used, but it does not flex very well if I recall.

 

[EHyde]

Oh, I meant mixing the paint with the latex before applying it, which I've done before and seems to retain its stretchiness just fine, or at least, good enough for this. I agree, acrylic paint on its own would not work very well. I've never used PlastiDip before though and I didn't know what it would turn out like.

 

[games001]

Oh, I meant mixing the paint with the latex before applying it, which I've done before and seems to retain its stretchiness just fine, or at least, good enough for this. I agree, acrylic paint on its own would not work very well. I've never used PlastiDip before though and I didn't know what it would turn out like.

PlastiDip is some wonderful stuff. You can dip an object into it for a clean shell of plastic. There is a spray version, though I have heard nothing but horror stories of it. It paints on like any other thick paint. You must be sure to set your strokes in 1 direction only, going back and forth will make a mess of your project as the PD starts to adhere and dry almost instantly.

Once it is on a product, such as a sheets of EVA Foam, it will bond well, stay in place, and flex wel enough for most situations.

This is a 3/8in thick sheet of EVA Foam, painted 3/4 of the way across the surface with PD (you can see the divider line from painted to unpainted sides on the fore, left most area). The EVA Foam was then heated super fast from the underside and bent into its current shape. The PD will hold up to some minor heating, but I suggest forming and shaping before you apply the coating of PD.
This is one coat, very thinly applied, and black in color over the dark grey EVA natural tone.