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Limited Run The Yuma (Short Bladed Stunt) Kit. Including Blade and Stencils. **SIGN UP CLOSED**
**Update**
Hi Everyone. Just a quick update for you....
The parts have finally left QC and are scheduled for delivery on Monday (29th)!!!
So excited to start getting these out to people! As soon as I have them in hand, I'll get some photo's posted. And of course, I'll start getting them shipped out ASAP. As soon as I've given them all a thorough checking over.
I'm hoping to get all the kits shipped out over the course of next week. After which, I'll begin work on the commissions!
It's going to be a busy few weeks!
Thanks for your patience everyone! Have a great weekend
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
Hi Everyone. Just a quick update for you....
The parts have finally left QC and are scheduled for delivery on Monday (29th)!!!
So excited to start getting these out to people! As soon as I have them in hand, I'll get some photo's posted. And of course, I'll start getting them shipped out ASAP. As soon as I've given them all a thorough checking over.
I'm hoping to get all the kits shipped out over the course of next week. After which, I'll begin work on the commissions!
It's going to be a busy few weeks!
Thanks for your patience everyone! Have a great weekend
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
GhostbusterDan
Sr Member
**Update**
Hi Everyone. Just a quick update for you....
The parts have finally left QC and are scheduled for delivery on Monday (29th)!!!
View attachment 1440676
So excited to start getting these out to people! As soon as I have them in hand, I'll get some photo's posted. And of course, I'll start getting them shipped out ASAP. As soon as I've given them all a thorough checking over.
I'm hoping to get all the kits shipped out over the course of next week. After which, I'll begin work on the commissions!
It's going to be a busy few weeks!
Thanks for your patience everyone! Have a great weekend
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
Yay! Yuma’s!
**Update**
Hi Everyone. Just a very quick update... Here are a few shots of the parts, which arrived this afternoon, as promised.
All looking perfect so far! I'm currently busy checking through them all, which will take a while!
It's my aim to get all kits out by the end of this week, starting tomorrow.
Then it will be full steam ahead on the commissions!
Thanks for your patience everyone. Your support, as always, is very much appreciated!
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
Hi Everyone. Just a very quick update... Here are a few shots of the parts, which arrived this afternoon, as promised.
All looking perfect so far!
I'm currently busy checking through them all, which will take a while! It's my aim to get all kits out by the end of this week, starting tomorrow.
Then it will be full steam ahead on the commissions!
Thanks for your patience everyone. Your support, as always, is very much appreciated!
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
GhostbusterDan
Sr Member
**Update**
Hi Everyone. Just a very quick update... Here are a few shots of the parts, which arrived this afternoon, as promised.
All looking perfect so far!
It's my aim to get all kits out by the end of this week, starting tomorrow.
Then it will be full steam ahead on the commissions!
View attachment 1441526View attachment 1441523View attachment 1441524View attachment 1441525
Thanks for your patience everyone. Your support, as always, is very much appreciated!
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
Wooooooooooooo!!!! YUMAAAAAS
NagorbArt
New Member
They look so clean!**Update**
Hi Everyone. Just a very quick update... Here are a few shots of the parts, which arrived this afternoon, as promised.
All looking perfect so far!
It's my aim to get all kits out by the end of this week, starting tomorrow.
Then it will be full steam ahead on the commissions!
View attachment 1441526View attachment 1441523View attachment 1441524View attachment 1441525
Thanks for your patience everyone. Your support, as always, is very much appreciated!
All the best and MTFBWY,
Dave
majortom98
Well-Known Member
If any kits are left, I'd be interested. Thanks.
Hi there. Just sent you a PM. Thanks
**Update**
Hi Everyone. Just wanted to give everyone a quick update as to where things are on the run....
I made a good start last week getting the kits out to people. I didn't quite get them all out before weekend, but I'm well on my way to having them all finished today, then packed/shipped tomorrow.
I was on strict orders to take a break for the Easter weekend, but I'm back at it now and full steam ahead!
These don't go out as I receive them. There is no issue with the quality of the parts, which are perfect, but straight off the CNC machine, they do have some shallow tool marks on the flat areas (on the pommel). I remove these myself and then degrease the parts before packing.
So the packing process is quite time consuming.
That said, I'm on track to get these last few kits out to people tomorrow (Wednesday). I'm not going to aim to get any to the post office today. It's better that I concentrate on getting them all finished today and then get them on their way tomorrow if that's ok with everyone.
After that, I'll be moving on to commissions! Once I move on to these, I'll be posting regular updates of my progress. I'll be breaking them down in to two batches of ten. I'll set out a timetable for this soon.
Yuma kit tips:
I intended on writing up a proper tutorial for the kits before sending them out, but time got the better of me and I didn't get round to it unfortunately.
When I do move on to the commissions, I'll be posting step by step updates of my process (with pictures). For now though, here are a few tips that I've found useful on my previous builds:
I use Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black on the emitter prior to applying the stencils. This adds an additional layer of grime to the emitter. The Aluminium Black will only take to areas that have been rubbed down with wire wool, or sanded with fine grit sandpaper. This is because the Aluminium forms an oxide layer that the AB wont penetrate. Wear PPE!
When applying the stencils, I cut the page up in to its various parts. Make a note of the centre line for each section. It's worth marking this on to the transfer tape. In hindsight, it should have been indicated on the stencil section rather than the exterior part that gets discarded.
Mask off the gold neck section until you've finished the black areas. Save the stencils for this part until your ready to use them.
I recommend yellow frog tape (not green) as transfer tape for the stencils. It's perfect. Just tacky enough to lift the stencils, but low tack enough to leave them behind on the hilt.
I don't use transfer tape for all of the sections. It's more trouble than its worth on the rings, which have relatively few islands. I find it's easier to position them by hand (tweezers*).
*Don't touch the adhesive side of the stencils with your fingers.
I don't mask the exposed ring sections. I find it's easier to paint them, and then sand them back to the metal once the paint has cured. Some people like to leave behind some of the paint on the rings. Personally, I take it all the way back to the metal.
The Stencils can leave some residue behind when they're removed. Some WD40 on a Q-Tip or cotton pad will break down/remove the residue without affecting your paintwork.
My paint of choice is Rustoleum Painters Touch Matte Black and Spray Bike Bronze Gold. I then weather the gold section with Tamiya Weather Master (Set B / Soot).
Hope you find this useful
I'll be posting a step by step as soon as I move on to my commissions
Thanks again for your support everyone, and for your patience.
All the best and MTFBWY-A,
Dave
Hi Everyone. Just wanted to give everyone a quick update as to where things are on the run....
I made a good start last week getting the kits out to people. I didn't quite get them all out before weekend, but I'm well on my way to having them all finished today, then packed/shipped tomorrow.
I was on strict orders to take a break for the Easter weekend, but I'm back at it now and full steam ahead!
These don't go out as I receive them. There is no issue with the quality of the parts, which are perfect, but straight off the CNC machine, they do have some shallow tool marks on the flat areas (on the pommel). I remove these myself and then degrease the parts before packing.
So the packing process is quite time consuming.
That said, I'm on track to get these last few kits out to people tomorrow (Wednesday). I'm not going to aim to get any to the post office today. It's better that I concentrate on getting them all finished today and then get them on their way tomorrow if that's ok with everyone.
After that, I'll be moving on to commissions!
Once I move on to these, I'll be posting regular updates of my progress. I'll be breaking them down in to two batches of ten. I'll set out a timetable for this soon.Yuma kit tips:
I intended on writing up a proper tutorial for the kits before sending them out, but time got the better of me and I didn't get round to it unfortunately.
When I do move on to the commissions, I'll be posting step by step updates of my process (with pictures). For now though, here are a few tips that I've found useful on my previous builds:
I use Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black on the emitter prior to applying the stencils. This adds an additional layer of grime to the emitter. The Aluminium Black will only take to areas that have been rubbed down with wire wool, or sanded with fine grit sandpaper. This is because the Aluminium forms an oxide layer that the AB wont penetrate. Wear PPE!
When applying the stencils, I cut the page up in to its various parts. Make a note of the centre line for each section. It's worth marking this on to the transfer tape. In hindsight, it should have been indicated on the stencil section rather than the exterior part that gets discarded.
Mask off the gold neck section until you've finished the black areas. Save the stencils for this part until your ready to use them.
I recommend yellow frog tape (not green) as transfer tape for the stencils. It's perfect. Just tacky enough to lift the stencils, but low tack enough to leave them behind on the hilt.
I don't use transfer tape for all of the sections. It's more trouble than its worth on the rings, which have relatively few islands. I find it's easier to position them by hand (tweezers*).
*Don't touch the adhesive side of the stencils with your fingers.
I don't mask the exposed ring sections. I find it's easier to paint them, and then sand them back to the metal once the paint has cured. Some people like to leave behind some of the paint on the rings. Personally, I take it all the way back to the metal.
The Stencils can leave some residue behind when they're removed. Some WD40 on a Q-Tip or cotton pad will break down/remove the residue without affecting your paintwork.
My paint of choice is Rustoleum Painters Touch Matte Black and Spray Bike Bronze Gold. I then weather the gold section with Tamiya Weather Master (Set B / Soot).
Hope you find this useful
I'll be posting a step by step as soon as I move on to my commissions
Thanks again for your support everyone, and for your patience.
All the best and MTFBWY-A,
Dave
Last edited:
*Update*
Hi everyone. Just a quick update to let you all know that the kits have all gone out and I'm officially moving on to the commissions from today!
I've had to break them down in to two batches which are as follows:
Commissions (Batch One):
I'll get through them as fast as I can, whilst maintaining the high standard that you've all come to expect.
I'll be posting regular updates from now on, just to keep you all up to date with where your builds are up to, and to give you an insight in to my process.
First up (starting today), I'll be prepping the body sections and applying Birchwood Casey to the emitters. I'll post an update once this is done, before moving on to the masking and stencilling.
Thanks for your patience everyone.
All the best and MTFBWY-A,
Dave
Hi everyone. Just a quick update to let you all know that the kits have all gone out and I'm officially moving on to the commissions from today!
I've had to break them down in to two batches which are as follows:
Commissions (Batch One):
- Nailuj - Complete Build - PAID
- nattui - Complete Build - PAID
- Execute66 - Complete Build - PAID
- BlueCoyote - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- AnthonyD2199 - Complete Build - PAID
- JoeSheep - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- NickCline - Complete Build - PAID
- RepelSpy007 - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- djcbooks81 - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- Martinmorris17 - Complete Build - PAID
- CHS3CELL - Complete Build - PAID
- skywalker49 - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- ms80444 - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- martinokenobi - Complete Build - PAID
- Dylan Denbek (FB) - Complete Build - PAID
- David Waeselynck (FB) - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- Chucklovesfood - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- mgenovese312 - Complete Build - PAID
- Noble Rich (FB) - Complete Build - PAID FOR PARTS
- Shinobi Hiro - Complete Build - PAID
- Willis Faucher (FB) - Complete Build - PAID
I'll get through them as fast as I can, whilst maintaining the high standard that you've all come to expect.
I'll be posting regular updates from now on, just to keep you all up to date with where your builds are up to, and to give you an insight in to my process.
First up (starting today), I'll be prepping the body sections and applying Birchwood Casey to the emitters. I'll post an update once this is done, before moving on to the masking and stencilling.
Thanks for your patience everyone.
All the best and MTFBWY-A,
Dave
*Update*
Hi everyone. Just a quick update on the commissions.
I managed to get the bodies for the entire first batch prepped yesterday. This involved removing the tool marks from the flat areas with wire wool and generally checking each one for any minor surface scratches and removing those.
I've moved on to applying Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black to the emitters now. This requires the wire wool again, to remove the outer oxide layer from the surface. I then apply using a Q-Tip (from a shot glass so as not to contaminate the bottle).
I then knock back with coarse wire wool making sure to vary the direction of the strokes to give a nice randomness to the *final look.
*The emitter will eventually have a stenciled paint pattern that will also be knocked back/weathered, so I didn't want to take off too much of the Aluminium Black at this stage.
Anyway, we're off to a good start and just wanted to keep everyone up to date with how things are going.
I'll post another update when I get to the next step.
Cheers,
Dave
Hi everyone. Just a quick update on the commissions.
I managed to get the bodies for the entire first batch prepped yesterday. This involved removing the tool marks from the flat areas with wire wool and generally checking each one for any minor surface scratches and removing those.
I've moved on to applying Birchwood Casey Aluminium Black to the emitters now. This requires the wire wool again, to remove the outer oxide layer from the surface. I then apply using a Q-Tip (from a shot glass so as not to contaminate the bottle).
I then knock back with coarse wire wool making sure to vary the direction of the strokes to give a nice randomness to the *final look.
*The emitter will eventually have a stenciled paint pattern that will also be knocked back/weathered, so I didn't want to take off too much of the Aluminium Black at this stage.
Anyway, we're off to a good start and just wanted to keep everyone up to date with how things are going.
I'll post another update when I get to the next step.
Cheers,
Dave
**Update**
Hi everyone. As promised, here's a quick update on my progress, and a little bit of a tutorial on how to go about using the stencils for those who purchased DIY kits.
I did want to post this yesterday, but the process is very time consuming, I'm hoping to have them all masked up and ready for painting by the end of today.
Having chemically treated all the emitters and cleaned off any loose oxide, the next step was to mask off the necks:
The stencils for this section (N03/04/05 on the stencil sheet) should be put to one side for later.
Next up, I mask off the "clamp" section and the pommel, leaving just the "booster" section exposed. I then apply the stencil for the booster without using transfer tape:
Most of the ring sections can be applied without the use of transfer tape. Just be careful to position them in the correct place in relation to the centre line. The Upper/left ring on the sheet is always the one closest to the emitter. Also, be careful not to touch the stencil with your bare hands if possible. Use a scalpel and tweezers.
The last ring (R10) has more islands than the others, so I use transfer tape for this one. I recommend that you use Yellow Frog Tape. It's tacky enough to lift the stencil, but low tack enough to leave it behind on the metal.
First up, cut out the section and remove the dark grey area:
Cover the section in transfer/Masking tape, and mark on the centre line. Then cut out section around the white line:
Lift the stencil from the backing paper and remove the outer edge before applying:
You can now remove the transfer tape and the stencil should be left behind on the hilt. Pulling the tape back on itself should prevent anything from lifting off with the tape.
The same principle applies for most of the remaining sections:
Once you have the remaining sections applied you'll want to just mask off the emitter nipple, then you're good to go!
I'm very nearly done masking/stencilling this first batch now and will hopefully be moving on to painting later today.
Hope anyone working on there own builds find this useful.
And for those of you waiting on your commissions, I hope you're happy with the progress so far. Thanks for your patience everyone
All the best, and MTFBWY-A
Dave
Hi everyone. As promised, here's a quick update on my progress, and a little bit of a tutorial on how to go about using the stencils for those who purchased DIY kits.
I did want to post this yesterday, but the process is very time consuming, I'm hoping to have them all masked up and ready for painting by the end of today.
Having chemically treated all the emitters and cleaned off any loose oxide, the next step was to mask off the necks:
The stencils for this section (N03/04/05 on the stencil sheet) should be put to one side for later.
Next up, I mask off the "clamp" section and the pommel, leaving just the "booster" section exposed. I then apply the stencil for the booster without using transfer tape:
Most of the ring sections can be applied without the use of transfer tape. Just be careful to position them in the correct place in relation to the centre line. The Upper/left ring on the sheet is always the one closest to the emitter. Also, be careful not to touch the stencil with your bare hands if possible. Use a scalpel and tweezers.
The last ring (R10) has more islands than the others, so I use transfer tape for this one. I recommend that you use Yellow Frog Tape. It's tacky enough to lift the stencil, but low tack enough to leave it behind on the metal.
First up, cut out the section and remove the dark grey area:
Cover the section in transfer/Masking tape, and mark on the centre line. Then cut out section around the white line:
Lift the stencil from the backing paper and remove the outer edge before applying:
You can now remove the transfer tape and the stencil should be left behind on the hilt. Pulling the tape back on itself should prevent anything from lifting off with the tape.
The same principle applies for most of the remaining sections:
Once you have the remaining sections applied you'll want to just mask off the emitter nipple, then you're good to go!
I'm very nearly done masking/stencilling this first batch now and will hopefully be moving on to painting later today.
Hope anyone working on there own builds find this useful.
And for those of you waiting on your commissions, I hope you're happy with the progress so far. Thanks for your patience everyone
All the best, and MTFBWY-A
Dave
GhostbusterDan
Sr Member
Here’s mine with my Dave Parkin Hero.
Great work Dave!
Great work Dave!
**Update**
Sorry for the radio silence everyone. If/when I drop off the radar, it's because I'm busy working on these. Each step in the process is taking longer than you might expect due to me working on ten in one go. I've made some good progress so far this week though and should have the first batch finished soon.
I wanted to get the bodies all finished before posting an update, and I'm happy to say that I got those finished today.
Here they are after they were painted black:
After a few coats, I re-masked and applied the neck stencils:
Freshly de-stencilled:
After de-stencilling, the paint on the emitters was knocked back with a wire brush and the rings were sanded. I also removed any residue from the stencils using WD-40 where necessary:
The necks were then weathered with Tamiya Weathering Master (Soot). I can't recommend this stuff enough! :
The bodies for this first batch are now finished.
I just need to get the boxes and tri-rings installed and finish off the blades, then these first ten will be on their way.
Thanks for your patience everyone. Hopefully everyone is happy with how things are looking.
Any questions, please feel free to DM me.
Looking forward to getting these out to their new homes!
All the best and MTFBWY-A,
Dave
Sorry for the radio silence everyone. If/when I drop off the radar, it's because I'm busy working on these. Each step in the process is taking longer than you might expect due to me working on ten in one go. I've made some good progress so far this week though and should have the first batch finished soon.
I wanted to get the bodies all finished before posting an update, and I'm happy to say that I got those finished today.
Here they are after they were painted black:
After a few coats, I re-masked and applied the neck stencils:
Freshly de-stencilled:
After de-stencilling, the paint on the emitters was knocked back with a wire brush and the rings were sanded. I also removed any residue from the stencils using WD-40 where necessary:
The necks were then weathered with Tamiya Weathering Master (Soot). I can't recommend this stuff enough! :
The bodies for this first batch are now finished.
I just need to get the boxes and tri-rings installed and finish off the blades, then these first ten will be on their way.
Thanks for your patience everyone. Hopefully everyone is happy with how things are looking.
Any questions, please feel free to DM me.
Looking forward to getting these out to their new homes!
All the best and MTFBWY-A,
Dave
mburkit
Well-Known Member
Dave,
I was curious what gold paint you used. I used the antique gold from ACE Hardware. I actually had an issue with the antique gold by itself sticking to my saber, which messed up the stenciling. I ended up sanding down all the gold paint for my neck, applying the second set of stencils and using a self-etching primer first before applying the antique gold.
I was curious what gold paint you used. I used the antique gold from ACE Hardware. I actually had an issue with the antique gold by itself sticking to my saber, which messed up the stenciling. I ended up sanding down all the gold paint for my neck, applying the second set of stencils and using a self-etching primer first before applying the antique gold.
Hey Matt,
I've never used the Ace Antique Gold as you can't get it in the UK. I use a brand called "Spray Bike" which I believe you can get in the US too. It's a REALLY nice finish and doesn't need a primer. The colour is "Bronze Gold", which I then add some Tamiya Weather Master to (Set B). The end result is a kind of bronze colour very close to the external shots of the Yuma. The sail barge shots where obviously taken under a big red canopy, so the external shots are best for colour matching:
