The Wand Company TOS Tricorder is coming!

FANATICO said:
I don’t know why….TWC went to the screw they chose, but I like the original round heads. So I’ll probably change TWC’s out.

View attachment 1954496
Click to expand...
These were the ones I got. I had to get the 10mm ones and shorten them as shorter ones are out of stock. Put a couple of nuts on the threads and then put into a drill and you can reshape them to your own taste. I had to use an emery board as my tools are in storage but when I can get them back out I'll be trying that myself.

 
smithjohnj said:
The round screw head is the domed-one some members believe sits too high. That is why I suggested the Pan Head, it has a lower profile- but is not completely round but has a flat top (to aid in a non-slip drive ability). There is a third head which I rejected which is the Truss Head. It has a lower round head but it is also has a wider profile so I do not believe it fits in this case. Just to be complete you would want a "M4 slotted ANSI Pan head screw". Many pan heads use a Phillips (X) driver, and a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) Pan Head has a smaller head.
Click to expand...
Searched, “M4 slotted ANSI Pan head screws” + images and wholly guacamole. Thanks!
 
Ronldheld said:
Do we need a separate thread for only modding?
Click to expand...

So much info is in this thread….do you want to post repeat posts to a new thread? One would have to siphon modding topics ….that’s a lot of copy and paste. If a new thread is to be posted….then it probably should have started with the first post of someone receiving the first Tricorder…..jus my two cents not accounting for inflation :)
 
Last edited:
FANATICO said:
Brass screws…..I might go with unless I can find lower qty and cost…otherwise I’ll bite the bullet…

Products for "Machine Screws Slotted Round Brass"
Click to expand...
From what I can see those are all Imperial, no metric ones so won't work.
Hopefully this link works. The previous one was from the app.

I've tried to do an angle comparison of mine with the brass ones you linked. Not got the best camera to do it though unfortunately.
 

Attachments

  • 1416MSRB_d60c0110-9632-40cf-aa8b-d40dd6f2fa6a.jpg
    1416MSRB_d60c0110-9632-40cf-aa8b-d40dd6f2fa6a.jpg
    5.7 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_20250729_220748 (1).jpg
    IMG_20250729_220748 (1).jpg
    534.5 KB · Views: 6
Leinads said:
What’s sad is that many of these that just sold are already headed straight to fleaBay. Hopefully, a few members here on the RPF who grabbed a second one will offer it up at cost to someone in need
Click to expand...
My offer still stands. If someone here needs one and after all of this still hasn't gotten one, I'll let my backup go for cost. But I'll admit I'm becoming slightly hesitant as if this really is the only run, it might make it harder to eventually get my backup back. :)
 
Simonized said:
Okay guys, sorry to change the subject but if you want to swap out the moire for one that can be seen without the light or just static, the bezel pops off and is held in place the same way the communicator is and has the same setup, plastic transparent piece over a sticker.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the newb question, but what would moire that can be seen without the light look like? It looks accurate to me. Not sure what you could do to it to make it more visible without the back light. Is it not accurate?
 
Technoboots said:
From what I can see those are all Imperial, no metric ones so won't work.
Hopefully this link works. The previous one was from the app.

I've tried to do an angle comparison of mine with the brass ones you linked. Not got the best camera to do it though unfortunately.
Click to expand...

I believe there are equivalency conversion tables to satisfy the sizes differential…….or of course a tap and dye set to re-thread the holes to Imperial threads.
 
Last edited:
Trooper_trent said:
Sorry for the newb question, but what would moire that can be seen without the light look like? It looks accurate to me. Not sure what you could do to it to make it more visible without the back light. Is it not accurate?
Click to expand...
The pattern is accurate but without the light you can't see it very well, the original was very visible as was the master replicas.

Placing a more visible white paper/sticker moire behind the transparent piece would make it (should make it) more visible.

Wand placed these in with the intention of having to have the backlight to see it clearly.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20250729_222440_Chrome.jpg
    Screenshot_20250729_222440_Chrome.jpg
    198 KB · Views: 13
Simonized said:
The pattern is accurate but without the light you can't see it very well, the original was very visible as was the master replicas.

Placing a more visible white paper/sticker moire behind the transparent piece would make it (should make it) more visible.

Wand placed these in with the intention of having to have the backlight to see it clearly.
Click to expand...
Ahh so TWC made them translucent instead of white opaque, knowing they were going to light them. I see.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Nascence
High Quality, Static, 3D Print and Build Star Trek The Original Series Tricorder Model/Prop Replica, by StripedCatCraftsworks!
Replies
3
Views
1,467
Ant1988
A
IFA
How do you change knobs on a Wand Company Communicator ?
Replies
7
Views
1,799
NakedMoleRat
NakedMoleRat
turner3d
TOS Communicator Build
6 7 8
Replies
147
Views
13,329
turner3d
turner3d
turner3d
Trek TOS Communicator: Animated Moiré Plans on the Cheap
Replies
10
Views
1,914
Trooper_trent
Trooper_trent
Movie Magic
What is this Star Trek TOS Phaser and Communicator?
Replies
4
Views
2,077
Movie Magic
Movie Magic
Back
Top